GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: HectorMedina on March 18, 2023, 06:37:19 PM
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More than 1 year in the making.
Hope you enjoy!
https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/the-020-cal-diana-54-project (https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/the-020-cal-diana-54-project)
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Hector,
Always a pleasure to read your Blog.
Especially 5mm
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Thanks for sharing Steve's tune but I fear that kind of "entertainment" is way beyond my limited resources.
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Really appreciated reading this. The detail and the process. How exactly did you determine that the compression tube had a low spot? Visually from pictures I don't think I could spot it.
Also would it be possible to share the McMaster carr link for the replacement cocking link ?
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Really appreciated reading this. The detail and the process. How exactly did you determine that the compression tube had a low spot? Visually from pictures I don't think I could spot it.
Also would it be possible to share the McMaster carr link for the replacement cocking link ?
Regarding the low spot in the compression tube, I could feel it when moving the piston. I could also feel it when rubbing my finger over it. Jumping to a slightly larger main seal helped with this.
Here is a link to the hardened steel pins. You will have to cut the grooves into the ends for the e-clips. When using this pin you will have one e-clip on each end.
https://www.mcmaster.com/91595A167/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/91595A167/)
Steve
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A motherload of food for thought for a D54 owner such as myself. Thanks, Steve!
Just as a sample, about the multi-degreaser approach for getting rid of moly remnants: that's exactly what I've been finding out with regards to switching my guns to Ultimox lubrication: the fact that one efficient degreaser doesn't take anything off anymore is no guarantee that there aren't moly residues still in the works to muck up the gun with use. Making a springer actually and not just apparently clean is a major piece of work.
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Really appreciated reading this. The detail and the process. How exactly did you determine that the compression tube had a low spot? Visually from pictures I don't think I could spot it.
Also would it be possible to share the McMaster carr link for the replacement cocking link ?
Regarding the low spot in the compression tube, I could feel it when moving the piston. I could also feel it when rubbing my finger over it. Jumping to a slightly larger main seal helped with this.
Here is a link to the hardened steel pins. You will have to cut the grooves into the ends for the e-clips. When using this pin you will have one e-clip on each end.
https://www.mcmaster.com/91595A167/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/91595A167/)
Steve
Thank you Steve!
It was also interesting to read your experience with the different seals. I know Hector has previously discussed the difference between the OEM black and newer blue one but good to see the Maccari seal fitment discussed. I recently purchased some of the aussie CAS breech seals for a webley vulcan, they too made of a much stiffer material and it was quite an effort to make it fit.
Not even sure where one can acquire OEM diana compression seals at this point with Umarex out of the game and Blueline not selling parts.. only handling warranty stuff.
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Just as a sample, about the multi-degreaser approach for getting rid of moly remnants: that's exactly what I've been finding out with regards to switching my guns to Ultimox lubrication: the fact that one efficient degreaser doesn't take anything off anymore is no guarantee that there aren't moly residues still in the works to muck up the gun with use. Making a springer actually and not just apparently clean is a major piece of work.
Yes, the 3-step process that Hector outlined worked very well. It was time consuming but it worked. I continued through each step until the white rags were coming out clean, then moved to the next product and did it again. Now over 1000 shots through it and no signs of gumming up. This morning I pulled the rifle cold off the rack and put 6 shots through the chronograph with an extreme spread of only 5 fps.
Steve
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That's a lot of work and good for you Hector, very well done! IDK what that tune costs? But my tuned R1's in .20cal will shoot that good or better for a lot less work and cost and a break barrel on top of that! I mean not disrespect in anyway. but if you have to do all that to make a Diana shoot like that? when a HW will shoot like that most of the time out of box, ;)
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Steve, Nitro,
WOW, that is the most comprehensive report on anything that I have ever seen!
Love the idea that the top hat and rear guide should almost meet in the middle, idea. Should be easy to figure out for each guns stroke, coil count and thickness.
The Titan Spring for my HW 50 is coil bound and I dont want to have to dismantle and remantle and polish spring ends 20 times to get the right length.
Did the shroud holding the O-rings in place move? Did the O-rings move? For the screws you did not want to loctite, have you considered Vibra-Tite?
Did you consider honing the OEM compression tube instead of replacing it?
Man you are talented! 8) ;)
-Yogi
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Steve, Nitro,
WOW, that is the most comprehensive report on anything that I have ever seen!
Love the idea that the top hat and rear guide should almost meet in the middle, idea. Should be easy to figure out for each guns stroke, coil count and thickness.
The Titan Spring for my HW 50 is coil bound and I dont want to have to dismantle and remantle and polish spring ends 20 times to get the right length.
Did the shroud holding the O-rings in place move? Did the O-rings move? For the screws you did not want to loctite, have you considered Vibra-Tite?
Did you consider honing the OEM compression tube instead of replacing it?
Man you are talented! 8) ;)
-Yogi
Thanks Yogi! Regarding the top hat, you just need to take into account if you will be adding additional preload. Depending on where it is added, you will need to account for this.
On the loose Harmonic Tuner, the tuner shifts front just a touch, which allows the barrel shroud to shift front and back. It is only a tiny amount (maybe 1/32"), but it will absolutely cause POI shifting.
I actually have a tube of Vibra-Tite but was not impressed with it. A few years back I attempted to use it on the threads of the sled adjustment screw for my first D56. It did not work very well. Perhaps the tube that I got was old inventory and didn't work as it should.
I'm sure the original comp tube could be precision honed, but I will probably just set it aside and sleeve it for my 22mm D56.
Steve
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Yogi, I'm not trying to knock anybody, that is fine work for sure! But IMO it is not really necessary! bells and whistles yes! that accuracy from the pix is no better than a good basic tune from a HW gun in the right hands of someone who can really shoot an air gun! you can spend all the money chasing accuracy you want but if you can't shoot all that money is waisted! JMO ::)
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Wow. Heckuva project and excellent write up. Job well done. I have a .177 56TH on the way. Better go read that write up before it gets here! Thanks to the info from you and Hector I have a much better understanding of what I’m getting into with these machines.
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Yogi, I'm not trying to knock anybody, that is fine work for sure! But IMO it is not really necessary! bells and whistles yes! that accuracy from the pix is no better than a good basic tune from a HW gun in the right hands of someone who can really shoot an air gun! you can spend all the money chasing accuracy you want but if you can't shoot all that money is waisted! JMO ::)
Mark,
I agree, even at $15 bucks an hour that gun must be $10,000+ bucks. I'm not that anal, or as good a shoot. But, more power to him....!
One of the guys at my range shoots a $5,000 Styer With a $3000 Smit and Bender scope. Is that me? NO! But he goes to the FT World Championships and I don't. and wish i could...
-Y
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Wow. Heckuva project and excellent write up. Job well done. I have a .177 56TH on the way. Better go read that write up before it gets here! Thanks to the info from you and Hector I have a much better understanding of what I’m getting into with these machines.
Thank you Chris! That was the sole purpose for the detail that went into this project, to help others.
There are so many posts on the 54/56 platforms and many questions out there on setting them up. If some 54/56 owners are able to take away information from this write-up and have a better understanding of their rifle, and feel more comfortable in making adjustments to improve accuracy, then all of the time that went into it was worth it to me.
In no way was this write-up intended to advertise this rifle against others, nor was it to exploit tuning. I pushed outwards in all directions on this rifle to test the limits and to zero in on the things that worked, and document them one at a time.
Again, the intent is to help others with detailed information😉
Steve
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Wow. Heckuva project and excellent write up. Job well done. I have a .177 56TH on the way. Better go read that write up before it gets here! Thanks to the info from you and Hector I have a much better understanding of what I’m getting into with these machines.
Thank you Chris! That was the sole purpose for the detail that went into this project, to help others.
There are so many posts on the 54/56 platforms and many questions out there on setting them up. If some 54/56 owners are able to take away information from this write-up and have a better understanding of their rifle, and feel more comfortable in making adjustments to improve accuracy, then all of the time that went into it was worth it to me.
In no way was this write-up intended to advertise this rifle against others, nor was it to exploit tuning. I pushed outwards in all directions on this rifle to test the limits and to zero in on the things that worked, and document them one at a time.
Again, the intent is to help others with detailed information😉
Steve
I’m looking forward to it. Whole new learning curve. Going to be like RC cars, slot cars, and bicycles all over again. You’d think I’d learn to leave well enough alone. Nope ;)
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I’m looking forward to it. Whole new learning curve. Going to be like RC cars, slot cars, and bicycles all over again. You’d think I’d learn to leave well enough alone. Nope ;)
What no skateboards???? ;D ;D
-Y
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I’m looking forward to it. Whole new learning curve. Going to be like RC cars, slot cars, and bicycles all over again. You’d think I’d learn to leave well enough alone. Nope ;)
What no skateboards???? ;D ;D
-Y
Several. Skateboards and longboards. Grew up on the dang things and can’t completely put them down. Gave my last vintage (mid-80’s) Powell-Peralta to one of my granddaughters last year. Kim took a spill on a half pipe last year so haven’t skated much lately.
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Could use some help from y’all that know this platform. New to me 56TH got here today. Looks good. Gun was described as 90%. The chrono printout that came with it has it shooting a little over 9 FPE with JSB Exact 13.34. Some other things to figure out. Since this is about Steve’s work with a very special D54, I started a separate thread for my gun. Any info will be much appreciated.