m1/v350's
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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General
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Vintage Air Gun Gate
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Rocker1
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m1/v350's
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Topic: m1/v350's (Read 2030 times))
GBertolet
Shooter
Posts: 32
yes
Real Name: Gary
Re: m1/v350's
«
Reply #20 on:
December 02, 2018, 07:00:42 PM »
I have a V-350 I bought in the mid 1960's. Never was that powerful. I did a rehab this summer. New spring and rebuild kit from Baker. I ultimately ditched the piston that takes that goofy teflon seal, and made up a new one that takes a O ring. Velocity after rebuild went to 320 fps, and then to mid 370's, after the new piston was installed. I later made up a delrin spring guide to keep the mainspring from kinking up. BB choice has a lot to do with velocity, as well as the accuracy. Crosman's are the lowest velocity and least accurate, while Daisy match seem to be the best, velocity and accuracy wise. Hornady's are ok also. Hard time seeing the black Hornady BB's in flight though. The closest you can get to bore size is the best. My bore mikes at .178. The Daisy's measure close to .174, and Hornady .173. I measured some Crosman's, and they measured from .168 to .172. Quite a spread. I guess that explains their poor performance.
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USA
TerryM
Expert
Posts: 1576
yes
Re: m1/v350's
«
Reply #21 on:
December 04, 2018, 09:19:11 AM »
I had a V350 as a kid, in the 60s. Used to haul it around on my bicycle, kids could do that back then. It seemed to shoot pretty hard, but now and then I would get a noticeably weaker shot. Never knew the cause, I've not taken one apart.
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TX
Crosman model#
101, 108, 110, 112, 113, 114 (x2), 118,
140, 180 (x3), 187, 400, Mark II, 1377, 1322, 150, 122CG, Sears 126.19311, Ted Williams Match Rifle (2nd variant 160) Self made 180-400-114 hybrid carbine
Benjamin model#
312(x2), 317, 342, Discovery
Sheridan:
Blue Streak (x2: '64, '67)
F model CO2 Blue Streak (converted to bulk fill)
eeler1
Expert
Posts: 1386
yes
Real Name: Jon
Re: m1/v350's
«
Reply #22 on:
December 04, 2018, 12:39:44 PM »
Looks good. You put some effort into the restoration.
You know, most of these 'pusher' rifles I've seen have rust or pitting on the barrels. I suspect it's because they are gripped for every shot, and who knows what kinds of residue a kid has on their hands. Doubtful the barrels were oiled up after a shooting session. I never oiled mine, ever, that I recall.
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West Sacramento, CA
kneel7628
Shooter
Posts: 29
yes
Real Name: Kevin
Re: m1/v350's
«
Reply #23 on:
January 25, 2021, 11:47:11 AM »
I have found that v350 barrel cap ( that houses the pop valve assembly ) must be screwed onto the barrel threads just right so the pop valve can reach it's full forward and reward stroke. ( It operates like a spring loaded piston). If screwed on to tight, the pop valve forward stroke will be to short. And air will escape out the bb breech) and the fps will be a little over 230 fps.
If screwed on to loose the pop valve teflon seal sleeve will catch on the inside of the barrel cap. And not move forward to the breech enough, again causing air loss through the breech
When I screw my barrel cap/ pop valve assembly onto the barrel threads. ( Before inserting into the spring tube) I turn the Barrell to a position where I can see a bb in the breech/ bb retainer, or upside down. I then take a paper clip stick it lightly into any one of the 3 holes in the barrel cap. You will see the pop valve move forward through the bb breech. I then screw it one full turn at a time, push the pop valve with the paper clip. I repeat this until the pop valve pushes the bb out of the breech past the bb retainer ball and spring and into the barrel. The end of the pop valve should be butted up against the barrel , sealing the breech. I then make sure the pop valve moves forward and backwards smoothly. Then I count the barrel threads showing. ( Most of the time it is 3-4 threads )
I wrap some teflon pipe dope around the 3-4 threads . So I will know when to stop tightening the barrel cap pop valve assembly while the assembling the powerplant. The center of the pop valve piston is hollow, this allows the compressed air to propel the bb. The barrel cap pop valve assembly does not store air. It uses the 3 small holes in the barrel cap to hyper accelerate the air generated by the Hammer/ piston assembly. As it moves forward in the spring tube. The air is accelerated and passes through the hollow center of the pop valve, the teflon pop valve seal keeps the compressed air from going around the pop valve piston forcing the air through the hole in the center propelling the bb out of the barrel . So the pop valve Barrell cap assembly is the actual compression chamber. It is geniuse it allows for a lighter, less stiffer spring. Making cocking effort lighter and more kid friendly. Crosman should never have abanded this design. It is one of the best designs I have ever seen used in a bb rifle for children. Based on this theory each of the 3 holes in the Barrell cap generates 120 +fps for a total of 360 + fps. All this without the bi directional vibration that a conventional spring piston rifle generates. I call this process tuning the barrel cap pop valve assembly. It does make a difference in performance. To take the time to attach the cap/ valve assembly to the barrel. I have gotten my v 350s to shoot as high as 370-380+ fps just by tuning this assembly.
Thanks all I really hope this makes sense and will help my fellow v 350s and their varients to better understand the workings of these rifles. I have a sears varient I have just re assembled. I will get some pictures up as soon as I have my other 350s and 3500s redone.
By the way.
Need some front sights. If someone could direct me. As I am a new member
Thanks
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USA, MD, Baltimore
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m1/v350's