Red Ryder seals
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Topic: Red Ryder seals (Read 1005 times))
Korak-again
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 668
Real Name: Tom
Red Ryder seals
«
on:
October 22, 2018, 09:54:08 PM »
Can the total spring/seal assembly from a new 1938b be used in an old 111-40 ?
The original seal seems to be responding to oil but it probably can use replacing.
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Bert Gummer for President.
For good health, give up smoking, drinking and sex. You may not live to be one hundred but it sure will seem like it.
cobalt327
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2418
Real Name: Mark
Re: Red Ryder seals
«
Reply #1 on:
October 23, 2018, 04:46:41 PM »
Short answer is no. The early guns use a piston and barrel seal same size as the model 25. The sears are also different.
Soaking leather seals with oil
The quick/dirty method is to pour the oil into the shroud and block the lever partly open. Switch between butt down and muzzle down about once a day for a week, and have the gun over something that will catch the oil that inevitably leaks out.
It can take a long time for oil to work its way to the seals if the oil is being put into the gun by the lever pivot, and same thing for pouring it down into the barrel shroud. This can be helped by propping the cocking lever partially open. But the whole operation can be done better by making a "tool" from a length of brass tubing that has a short length of weed trimmer fuel line (or similar) on the end. This is inserted into the shroud, the tubing goes over the air tube and should be a snug fit, then the oil is squirted into the tubing and allowed to drain (or it can be blown) down into the compression chamber. I use a block of wood between the cocking lever and receiver to hold the plunger piston away from the barrel seal before adding the oil. Let it sit butt down over something that will catch the oil that leaks out. After a day or so flip it over. Add oil as needed- you should hear a wet squishing sound when you work the lever from closed to partially open. No need to fully cock it during this process but if you do- no problem, just 'dry fire' it (avoiding the oil that will spray out). Keep doing this for a week and if that doesn't revive it, ain't nothing gonna help but fresh seals.
Once you have completed the soaking, shoot the gun a couple dozen times with the muzzle down to help get rid of the excess oil. Also clean the inside of the shroud where the BBs are stored when you load the gun. Oil there will make the BBs and shot tube oily. And oil on the BBs or in the shot tube kills accuracy so don't expect it to shoot to POA while the gun's oily inside. Clean the shot tube often. Eventually patches will come out clean but it will take a lot of shooting and a lot of cleanings before they do. Also, the gun will continue to smoke from the shot tube long after the soaking is done, but it's harmless other than some oil may still come out in a fine spray and that can stain so be aware of that.
ETA, use thin viscosity motor oil and don't give a second though to it being a detergent oil. Pellgunoil is detergent motor oil, after all.
«
Last Edit: October 24, 2018, 01:17:16 PM by cobalt327
»
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GA, USA
Korak-again
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 668
Real Name: Tom
Re: Red Ryder seals
«
Reply #2 on:
October 23, 2018, 06:34:09 PM »
Thanks for the info. I have been soaking it for a few days and it shows some improvement. I was wondering about the swap because I have a couple of donor guns available.
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Bert Gummer for President.
For good health, give up smoking, drinking and sex. You may not live to be one hundred but it sure will seem like it.
cobalt327
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2418
Real Name: Mark
Re: Red Ryder seals
«
Reply #3 on:
October 23, 2018, 07:11:24 PM »
It's possible to convert the plunger head (piston) and abutment/barrel seal from the leather type (with the captive air tube) to synthetic seals/separate air tube by using the seals from a model 25. The condition of the barrel seal is as important as the piston- the hole in the barrel seal needs to be a snug fit to the air tube. If the hole is too big it loses a lot of pressure and the MV falls. But if the existing leather barrel seal is still okay, it can be left in and just the model 25 piston used with it. If you decide to do this let me know if you want any help.
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GA, USA
Korak-again
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 668
Real Name: Tom
Re: Red Ryder seals
«
Reply #4 on:
October 24, 2018, 09:07:16 AM »
Thanks Mark. At this point I haven't decided what I will do, if anything, with it.
Logged
Bert Gummer for President.
For good health, give up smoking, drinking and sex. You may not live to be one hundred but it sure will seem like it.
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Red Ryder seals