Clean and polish. Do not lube.
The dry graphite will make for a slick sliding hammer. If you do use it, use it very sparingly. It will/can cause the poppet to jam/stick. Also, it can wreck havoc on your trigger assembly if it gets in there. Don't ask me how I know.
The easiest way to understand functions of the Brocock trigger adjustment screws is to take the thing apart and turn them a little while watching the parts. The ball bearing sear (1/4" ball bearing) will drop out when you drop the trigger group off the cylinder, but with the hammer in the right place that's easy to put back, especially with a tiny dab of grease to hold it in the hammer groove while assembling. I haven't adjusted my trigger in a few years, but if memory serves, the tiny screw at the back is the one used to adjust the crispness of the sear, basically from failing (hair trigger end of the scale) to a longer and harder draw. It's a bit of a fussy adjustment. In mine it was actually two grub screws for some reason, maybe the short one was a lock, but I replaced them with a single longer grub screw as at the adjusted position I wanted the long one was falling out. The trigger blade is somewhat adjustable as well, with a tiny (7mm?) lock nut on the inside of the trigger frame.
I guess the question of lubricant depends on the materials of the specific rifle. My RAW HM1000 suddenly became erratic in performance, so I called Martin and asked him about it. He said, assuming good pellets, the main culprit is usually a dirty/dry hammer. So, I took it apart and, sure enough, it was dry. I cleaned it and lubed lightly with Mobil One oil. Martin said to use only a fully synthetic product. That fixed the performance issue.
Play with the adjustments. My Atomic's trigger is about 600grams, just over a pound. Wish I could remember how I got it there, but it wasn't very difficult. I like light triggers.
My hammer is just a round metal dowel (like 1/2 roll of quarters) that fits in a round tube with a spring in the back. Pretty simple. Its metal on metal contact...
Quote from: elh0102 on July 26, 2017, 08:22:29 AMI guess the question of lubricant depends on the materials of the specific rifle. My RAW HM1000 suddenly became erratic in performance, so I called Martin and asked him about it. He said, assuming good pellets, the main culprit is usually a dirty/dry hammer. So, I took it apart and, sure enough, it was dry. I cleaned it and lubed lightly with Mobil One oil. Martin said to use only a fully synthetic product. That fixed the performance issue.ahh, now I'm fully confused. Some say lube others say don't it will gum it up. Mobile 1 is the ticket? My hammer is just a round metal dowel (like 1/2 roll of quarters) that fits in a round tube with a spring in the back. Pretty simple. Its metal on metal contact, but it just looked dirty from maybe fine metal dust. So your RAW was shooting inaccurate? or was getting just low fps.
Quote from: RAJOD on July 26, 2017, 07:27:07 PMQuote from: elh0102 on July 26, 2017, 08:22:29 AMI guess the question of lubricant depends on the materials of the specific rifle. My RAW HM1000 suddenly became erratic in performance, so I called Martin and asked him about it. He said, assuming good pellets, the main culprit is usually a dirty/dry hammer. So, I took it apart and, sure enough, it was dry. I cleaned it and lubed lightly with Mobil One oil. Martin said to use only a fully synthetic product. That fixed the performance issue.ahh, now I'm fully confused. Some say lube others say don't it will gum it up. Mobile 1 is the ticket? My hammer is just a round metal dowel (like 1/2 roll of quarters) that fits in a round tube with a spring in the back. Pretty simple. Its metal on metal contact, but it just looked dirty from maybe fine metal dust. So your RAW was shooting inaccurate? or was getting just low fps.My RAW was shooting erratic, random flyers. I didn't have a chrono at the time, but I'm sure the flyers resulted from inconsistent velocity. At 25 yards, this rifle will normally put all shots in one small hole. It suddenly started shooting a flyer every 5 or 6 shots, totally out of the group. I have never seen a Brocock, but based on the manual I pulled up online, I think the hammer moves in contact with a synthetic material, not metal. The RAW is all metal. As with most metal-on-metal movement, some type of lube is needed.