Do you have a picture of the crack?I fixed a few stocks on some PBs like that by pushing some epoxy in the crack then wrapping a lot of surgical or rubber tubing around the stock as tight as I can.The rubber tubing doesn't hurt the finish on the stock and it's strong enough to squeeze the crack closed until the epoxy dries. I didn't have any more problems after that.Before you put the epoxy in the crack see if the rubber tubing will close the crack.
If you can get to a Hobby Shop. Pick up a small bottle of "Insta-Cure" thin CA Glue. Cyanoacrylate's are what "Super Glue" is based on but the model building quality stuff is on a much higher level. Break tests show it will pull the adjacent wood apart before the glued joint fails.The bottle may have the hobby shops name on the label but if it looks like this, they are made by BSI. While epoxies are very strong, they should have the crack spread apart and the glue applied to both sides, then clamped... The "thin" CA is about like water and will "wick" into the crack and surrounding wood fibers. The tighter the crack the better. "Less is More" is a good rule for CA's, simply draw a line with the fine tip and let is soak in. Because it is so thin be careful not to use so much it runs,position the crack so gravity soaks it in not run out the screw hole onto the finish. You will never get it off. And if you glue your fingers, you will pull the skin off trying to get them apart.*EDIT*: I see it is now available on amazon... the wonders of the WWW.LINK TO AMAZON
Quote from: Steelontarget on June 10, 2017, 05:48:14 PMDo you have a picture of the crack?I fixed a few stocks on some PBs like that by pushing some epoxy in the crack then wrapping a lot of surgical or rubber tubing around the stock as tight as I can.The rubber tubing doesn't hurt the finish on the stock and it's strong enough to squeeze the crack closed until the epoxy dries. I didn't have any more problems after that.Before you put the epoxy in the crack see if the rubber tubing will close the crack.Steelontarget I put gorilla glue and she hasn't lost any accuracy. Maybe I lucked out
I learned the hard way with this one Jay. My very first Pro-Sport stock cracked in this same spot. I bought a new Walnut stock, but kept the old one. I ended up pressing a stack of metal washers into that bolt hole so it is essentially pillar bedded on the front trigger guard screw. I first tried several types of glues and epoxies with no success. Once it is cracked across that area, glue will not hold. But with the metal washer pillar bed, you can tighten that front trigger guard screw up as tight as you like and the stock will never move It is now a spare stock sitting on my shelf.The Pro-Sport stock is very thin in this area and the front trigger guard screw can only be tightened enough to take up the slop between action and stock. I have torque specs for all other stock screws on the Pro-Sport,with the exception of this one....lightly snug only. Steve
Quote from: Nitrocrushr on June 11, 2017, 05:39:04 PMI learned the hard way with this one Jay. My very first Pro-Sport stock cracked in this same spot. I bought a new Walnut stock, but kept the old one. I ended up pressing a stack of metal washers into that bolt hole so it is essentially pillar bedded on the front trigger guard screw. I first tried several types of glues and epoxies with no success. Once it is cracked across that area, glue will not hold. But with the metal washer pillar bed, you can tighten that front trigger guard screw up as tight as you like and the stock will never move It is now a spare stock sitting on my shelf.The Pro-Sport stock is very thin in this area and the front trigger guard screw can only be tightened enough to take up the slop between action and stock. I have torque specs for all other stock screws on the Pro-Sport,with the exception of this one....lightly snug only. SteveSo you think that since I don't got $ for a new stock, do the washer thing?