Since a couple of months I've been the proud owner of a brand new HW77k but I have a few questions I can't find the answer to and I was hoping someone a little more knowledgeable could help me out.-I never really liked the factory stock-finish and thought about re-doing it since before I got the riffle but now that I've shot it a little more I've noticed that the finish is getting shinier and appears more transparent in the places where you regularly hold/touch/rub it. Is there an easy and quick way to make the entire stock look like that?-I really like the look of the white butt-spacer on the MKI and MKII HW77 and I would like to add one to my newer model too if possible. Can you buy these ready-made somewhere or does anyone have some pointers on how to make one and from what perhaps? And would that little cap and white spacer on the bottom of the grip on the older models fit the newer stock as well or has the shape/size changed to much with the newer stock?-loctite; I quickly learned the need for this on the stock-screws but I'm wondering if I should put some on the trigger adjustment screws as well? Some say it is recommended but I've put around 2700 shots through mine now and as far as I can tell it hasn't budged yet. I'm a little weary about doing this because I assume I'll have to adjust the trigger again in order to do it and I really like it the way it is now, not sure how difficult it is to set it back the exact same way.I think that's it for now but I may come up with more questions later on I'd appreciate any input you guys (m/f) might have!
Sort of a question. I assume that the finish is polyurethane, as it is on most non-exotic stocks.With hardwood floors with polyurethane finishes, they sternly warn you not to use wax on it. It apparently destroys the finish. Not sure what that means, exactly and not going to experiment to find out.But a fair number of people seem to wax their PU rifles without trouble.Anyone know the deal?
Thanks for the replies so far guys.So I guess any old cheap plastic &^^& will do for the white spacer and that's a no-no on the loctite on the trigger adjustment screws, got it Not sure if they sell that vibra-tite over here on my side of the pond but I'll look in to that if the screws ever some loose.I am still curious if many of you had their trigger adjustment screws come loose by themselves though?I don't think I can get Flitz here neither but I have a somewhat similar product that I'll give a try first, thanks for the suggestions @NCG and Extreme .457!Quote from: TwiceHorn on May 27, 2017, 09:05:28 PMSort of a question. I assume that the finish is polyurethane, as it is on most non-exotic stocks.With hardwood floors with polyurethane finishes, they sternly warn you not to use wax on it. It apparently destroys the finish. Not sure what that means, exactly and not going to experiment to find out.But a fair number of people seem to wax their PU rifles without trouble.Anyone know the deal?I'm not a 100% certain but I think it's just some kind of colored varnish, probably mahogany colored. I do know it strips off with regular paint-stripper fairly easy if that might tell you anything.
"I also make sure the screw is thru the tab and one thread into the housing"Hummmm........if I did that with my Rekords the trigger pull would be much too heavy for my taste! Just tried it and I had a "several pound" trigger pull weight. Do you replace the Rekord spring with a lighter spring for your trigger setting?
Hi there,I use Vibratite on stock screws only. I have a recipe that has worked well for me on all my HW pull weight adjustment screws. I set the weight to where I like it, but I also make sure the screw is thru the tab and one thread into the housing. As a result of two points of contact, I slightly bend the tab and bind the screw. Once this is done, use a q tip and wet it with acetone, clean the thread at the bend tab, and at the housing. This is done with the trigger facing up. Then I use the quick set nail polish in clear. Make one pass the entire circumference of the screw joint at the tab, and re-dip the brush and one pass at the housing joint. Never had one come loose yet. I do not like the loctite.Hope this helps,Jason G
Quote from: TwiceHorn on May 27, 2017, 09:05:28 PMSort of a question. I assume that the finish is polyurethane, as it is on most non-exotic stocks.With hardwood floors with polyurethane finishes, they sternly warn you not to use wax on it. It apparently destroys the finish. Not sure what that means, exactly and not going to experiment to find out.But a fair number of people seem to wax their PU rifles without trouble.Anyone know the deal?I suspect it's the KIND of wax that is the culprit. MOST of what we buy will have 'cleansers' in it, just another word for abrasives. Using it will put micro scratches into the clearcoat of a car, or that synthetic floor, I'm sure. Flitz makes a 'museum' wax, which is pure carnuba. For car buffs, I believe a like product is by MacGuire's.
Quote from: Jason_Garvin on May 28, 2017, 11:03:03 PMHi there,I use Vibratite on stock screws only. I have a recipe that has worked well for me on all my HW pull weight adjustment screws. I set the weight to where I like it, but I also make sure the screw is thru the tab and one thread into the housing. As a result of two points of contact, I slightly bend the tab and bind the screw. Once this is done, use a q tip and wet it with acetone, clean the thread at the bend tab, and at the housing. This is done with the trigger facing up. Then I use the quick set nail polish in clear. Make one pass the entire circumference of the screw joint at the tab, and re-dip the brush and one pass at the housing joint. Never had one come loose yet. I do not like the loctite.Hope this helps,Jason GThat sounds more complicated then I feel comfortable doing myself to be honest, I think I'll just cross my fingers that I'll never have to touch those screws instead, haha.I'm curious though, what exactly is the difference between Vibralock and loctite?I had never used loctite before myself and so far only aplied it. Never had to loosen or clean up a screw with loctite on it so far.I bought the blue loctite at medium strength by the way.I also have a couple of new questionsTo whomever would know the answer.My HW77k just returned from a tune job. It went in under warranty because I feared the spring had broken but it turned out to be just a blown breech-seal instead eventually.But since it had to be opened up under warranty I figured I might as well have it tuned and safe myself a couple of bucks on labor, the true dutchman that I am.I already had purchased a Tinbum spring guide and tophat elsewhere and the guy from the LGS agreed on de-burring the riffle and installing the kit for me for a small extra fee. He was going to clean it and put in new lubrication already since he had to check the spring so I wasn't charged for that. I also got a new (stock Weihrauch) spring under warranty by the way, even though the old one wasn't broken.But the gun is a lot more difficult to shoot after the tune. It suddenly has become very hold sensitive and also is a bit harder to cock.It also twanged like crazy still but that seemed to have died down after about 300 shots or so. It is louder then it was though, and sometimes when I move the cocking-lever back after cocking the riffle something sticks inside the riffle. Like maybe the piston seal slightly hangs somewhere or maybe there's a bit too much grease below the piston or something. This only happens maybe once every 25 to 40 shots or so but it kind of scares me when it happens even if it is only the slightest hang up.So now that you have a little more background info here are my questions:-do I have to be worried about the sticking of the piston or seal I tried to describe or is this normal?-I suspect the riffle has become more difficult to shoot because the gunsmith used both washers that came with the kit and hope it will becoming easier to shoot/less hold sensitive when I remove one or both of them. Is this a good theory or do you guys think there's more to it then that?Frankly I should just send it back in but I don't have a whole lot of faith in this guys abilities anymore. When I got the riffle back the stock screws were also way to loose. It took me a while before I thought to check them and I just could not get the scope sighted in because of this. He also forgot to chrony it before he send it back even though he said he would and with all that in mind plus the time it took for him to get it done and then to send it back to me I think I'm better off learning how to do this myself.Also, are there any other things I should address while I have it open, and do you really need a spring-compressor for these or are they manageable enough without?
"what exactly is the difference between Vibralock and loctite"Well, the Vibra-Tite is rather messy to apply and it's allowed to dry on the threads to a "rubber like coating" before assembling. The Vibra-Tite remains "rubbery" and the fasteners can be removed and reassembles several times before the need to reapply.LocTite is a hardening material produced in various strengths that cures when there is a lack of oxygen so parts are assembled "wet" and allowed to cure. I generally use medium strength "Blue LocTite" but for parts that are more permanently assembled I use high strength "Red Loc-Tite". Among the various grades of LocTite there is also a very high strength stud setting "Green LocTite" that is best to keep away from most airgun assemblies!
Is the rifle .177? I ended up building a compressor one day some time ago, just for the screw on plugs. You can wrap a new clean hand towel on the end and unscrew it very slowly keep solid pressure on it ( last couple of threads ). I couldn't think of a better time to order the 12 fpe kit from Vortek, and never look back. If you feel capable. You can most likely screw the plug back on with the 12 fpe by hand.As for the Vibratite, I love the red glue. It is not messy if you are careful like with any liquids. It was designed for off road racing and vibration, sound like it is good for springers. It doesn't get hard like glue, so you can adjust your screws a bit if needed over time. It is great stuff, clean all surfaces with acetone and dry. The apply the Vibratite VC3, let sit at-least 24 hrs, longer is better. Combination of the 12 fpe kit installed correctly and Vibratite, your screws will not fall out. You can shoot and enjoy for long time Jason G
So I just got some data; turns out my 77 is doing 912fps average with JSB Heavies At 10.34gr that comes out to more then 19FPE or almost 26J !!!I guess that explains why it's a bit difficult to shoot, lolIt is pretty consistent though, the spread is about 9fps.So will I ruin my gun if I keep shooting it like this..?
Quote from: Crooked Penguin on June 02, 2017, 08:22:53 PMSo I just got some data; turns out my 77 is doing 912fps average with JSB Heavies At 10.34gr that comes out to more then 19FPE or almost 26J !!!I guess that explains why it's a bit difficult to shoot, lolIt is pretty consistent though, the spread is about 9fps.So will I ruin my gun if I keep shooting it like this..?Dang. I didn't think the 77/97 was capable of that kind of power conventionally. How's the cocking?I can't imagine that it would actually hurt anything except maybe wearing out the cocking linkage prematurely (parts of it, anyway).