Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor?
Select Gate
READ GTA FORUM RULES BEFORE POSTING
GTA Forum Help Desk
GTA Announcement Gate
Dealer Area
GRIP
AirgunWeb Airgun Videos
Airgun Repository of Knowledge
Vendors and Vendor Videos
AirGun Expo 2021
Airgun Expo 2022
Contests and Giveaways!!!
Welcome New Members
In Memoriam
GTA Contributing Members
Shot Show Videos
Hajimoto Productions
Airgun Detectives
Air Gun Gate
BB Guns and Such
"Bob and Lloyds Workshop"
American/U.S. Air Gun Gates
European/Asian Air Gun Gates
PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside"
Air Archery
Vintage Air Gun Gate
Air Guns And Related Accessories Review Gates
Hunting Gate
Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining
3D printing and files
Buyer's, Seller's & Trader's Comments
Bargain Gate
Back Room
Target Shooting Discussion Gate
Target Match Rules
Shooting Match Gates
Field Target Gates
The Long Range Club
100 Yard Match
Discussions By States
Welcome,
Guest
. Please
login
or
register
.
Did you miss your
activation email
?
1 Hour
1 Day
1 Week
1 Month
Forever
Login with username, password and session length
Home
About
Help
Old GTA
Gallery
Search
Stats
Login
Register
Advertise Here
GTA
»
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General
»
PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside"
»
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2
»
Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor?
« previous
next »
Print
Pages: [
1
]
2
3
...
15
Go Down
Share This!
Author
Topic: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor? (Read 35760 times))
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor?
«
on:
January 23, 2017, 12:39:25 PM »
Hi All,
I recently bought a Shoebox Max. So I am trying to plan out how to remove contaminants and water from the compressed air supply. I am basically starting from scratch with a Craftsman 25 gallon 4 hp 7.0 cfm @ 90 psi compressor.
The Shoebox I got has a few upgrades. It has hardened pistons, the felt silicone oil oilers, belt drive and a pressure switch instead of the slapper system. It also came with a Drierite Laboratory Air and Gas Drying unit with 1/8 npt fittings, lots of drying media, a Campbell Hausfeld Air Cleaner/Dryer (PA208503AV) with an additional desiccant dryer unit. I will most likely only use the first unit as it's an oil-removal filter that traps 99.9 percent of all oil aerosols, allegedly.
I have on order SMC AMG150C-N02D Water Separator. What I think I also need is a first line of filtration, a particulate filter. I'd like one that works good and isn't expensive to maintain.
So here is where I need help. I have read that humidity in my air supply needs to be less than 50% to avoid corrosion. The SMC water separator will remove 99% of water drops from the compressed air but the humidity will be 100% and that an air dryer is recommended to lower the humidity.
So I looked into refrigerated and membrane air driers. Since the Shoebox only requires .2 cfm during operation the smaller capacity driers will work. The refrigerated and membrane dryers I have found are around $200. I am not sure how much humidity the refrigerated dryer removes but the membrane dryer states it will bring humidity into the single digits and requires no power.
Since the .2 cfm flow rate is so low do you think I would need an aftercooler straight after the compressor? If I get the refrigerated dryer, will I need to warm up the air or leave it cooled to boost the Shoebox efficiency?\
I will also need a little help in the order of the components. I am thinking this is the order: Craftsman compressor, aftercooler, particulate filter, oil separator, water separator, air dryer and lastly the Shoebox.
Since my flow rate is low, .2 cfm, but working time is longer, about 4 hours to fill my 44 cubic foot tank from 3000 - 4500 psi, would the Drierite dryer have the capacity and bring the humidity below 50%? There have been some threads recently where it has been stated that the drier media is saturated much earlier than the color change. I am confused.
I think I understand dew point but when you add temperature and pressure I get lost. Maybe someone could explain this better for dummies like me.
Thank you All in advance as I am excited to get this all connected and running.
Taso
«
Last Edit: February 12, 2017, 06:37:05 PM by taso1000
»
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #1 on:
January 23, 2017, 01:24:43 PM »
high pressure air dryer goes LAST. It does the final drop down to target humidity level AT PRESSURE.
Otherwise, compression by the Shoebox brings dew point back up.
Logged
Seattle WA
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #2 on:
January 23, 2017, 01:42:14 PM »
guykuo,
Thank you for your response. I'm trying to avoid the 4500 psi air dryer if I can. All the components I am trying to use work at ~100 psi. So my question to you, if the humidity in the air, water vapor, before the Shoebox is reduced to < 10% what does it matter if the dew point goes up but there is only < 10% humidity?
Like I said in my first post, I am a water vapor dummy and I am trying to understand.
Is the < 50% humidity number wrong to eliminate corrosion? Is < 10% not low enough?
Thank you,
Taso
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #3 on:
January 23, 2017, 02:20:03 PM »
RH% and dew point can be converted between each other. They are both expressions of water content.
Look here for more detailed discussion of dryers.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=120428.msg1167974#msg1167974
If you use the two referenced calculators there you can do the computations. Sorry, I am not allowed to post external links. So, I had to munge the addresses somewhat.
Feed 10% RH air at 100 PSI into the Shoebox. Compress it to 4500 PSI, the resultant dew point is 115F.
If expressed as relative humidity% that would be 380% humidity after compressing the 10% RH 100 PSI air through the Shoebox up to 4500 PSI.
Post compression in the Shoebox, that 10% RH air now has so high a concentration, water will condense at temperatures ABOVE room air!
«
Last Edit: January 23, 2017, 04:37:14 PM by guykuo
»
Logged
Seattle WA
FuzzyGrub
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 7135
yes
Real Name: John
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #4 on:
January 23, 2017, 02:33:32 PM »
Sounds like you might have bought Norm's Shoebox.
While I can't answer your specific question, it does sound like you already have plenty of drying compared to most. Most just have some desiccant and particle filter between the 1st stage compressor and the shoebox. Just keep an eye on the desiccant. Also, given your large pump, the tank will stay cold and less water will be going to the SB, than most peoples set-ups. The high pressure side water filter is probably the best, but agree it is very costly, and I have no plans to add one to mine.
Logged
Rural New York
1701P, 2201P, & 2501 Pistols,
1720T/Prod/Fortitude based( 7 ), Mrods( 5 ), SAM,
Sumatra 25 carbine, 357 Bulldog, Walther CP88 ( 2 ),
Akelas 22 & 25,
ATI Nova Liberty Wood 177 & 22,
P1, A4-P, & DPMS Full-Auto Fun
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #5 on:
January 23, 2017, 06:07:44 PM »
John,
Yes, I was the one that bought Norm's Shoebox.
I'm just trying to get as much information as I can to create a safe and effective setup. I don't want any oils igniting or my guns and tanks rusting and affecting their structural integrity.
In case you haven't noticed, I do geek out a little as I enjoy researching and picking out components. I also am frugal and like to stretch my money and have a effective setup.
Hearing that I am going overboard in water reduction is a good sign. I wish I knew how much was realistically enough.
Since my compressor isn't quiet it will sit out in the detached garage with no climate control. Cold in the winter and humid in the summer. I have considered bringing everything inside except the compressor and running an air hose into the house. I think I'd rather have the hpa stuff in the garage for safety though.
I looked for a sticky or an hpa water management for dummies post but couldn't find one.
So your and everyone else's help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Taso
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
FuzzyGrub
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 7135
yes
Real Name: John
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #6 on:
January 23, 2017, 08:36:32 PM »
Taso,
It wasn't hard to guess it was norms, not many people have put the pressure switch on the SB Max.
I know there were a few set-ups posted on the shoebox forum. Also Alan over at the marauder forum had posted back a year or two ago, his set-up, large desiccant filter followed by particle filter. Pretty sure he was running a oil-less compressor, though.
In general, it seems like the larger the desiccant filter, the better. I only use two inline "disposable" desiccant filters. Those did fine with working with guppu and the slightly smaller 90ci paintball tanks, but filling a 60-minute from zero required a change out mid fill from zero. I run both compressors in the house, though.
Probably not an issue, since you will be running in your garage, which probably has GFI, but if not might consider adding it. The SB wiring is not what I would call "standard" practice. The shutoff switch is on neutral side of the motor. So, it is possible that a connector can come off and complete circuit thru the metal chassis. GFI's are cheap, so just added it vs rewiring the SB. I discussed with Tom, but not sure if new SB's are different. Yours is older than mine, so suspect the wiring is the same.
PS: yea, I noticed when you posted about your fill assys.
Logged
Rural New York
1701P, 2201P, & 2501 Pistols,
1720T/Prod/Fortitude based( 7 ), Mrods( 5 ), SAM,
Sumatra 25 carbine, 357 Bulldog, Walther CP88 ( 2 ),
Akelas 22 & 25,
ATI Nova Liberty Wood 177 & 22,
P1, A4-P, & DPMS Full-Auto Fun
Norm_m
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2952
Real Name: Norm
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #7 on:
January 24, 2017, 09:26:09 AM »
Taso I think you are overthinking the moisture issue as with all the air dryers on that system I do not think you will ever see moist air coming out of your SB.
If you keep an eye on the color change of the desiccant beads in the two Campbell Hausfeld units and dry them out as soon as the turn color you will seldom see the Drierite beads change color. I think from the day I installed the Drierite unit to the time you purchased the complete SB setup I only had to dry the Drierite once in over a year.
IMO all the drying units on this SB setup is already a bit overboard but I if I was going to do anything more I would go with JB's high pressure drying unit
Norm
Logged
Laconia, NH
N.U.A.H. Club Master Division
Norm
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #8 on:
January 24, 2017, 12:22:14 PM »
There certainly is a dichotomy between what air gunners accept as dry enough to be in the tank vs what the high pressure gas and diving community rate as safe for equipment.
Probably contributes to how strongly air gunner questions about compressors are disliked on the scuba forum. For that world, the air gunner compressors are complete junk that shouldn't even be discussed.
Personally, I am conservative and try to reach Grade E air's much lower moisture content for my equipment. That lets me match the recommendations of a wider range of experience than just the limited needs of the airgun community.
Water isn't destroyed by compression. It's going to end up somewhere. Whether it is used up producing oxides inside tanks, at threads, or vented out, I really want no part of it with 4500 PSI.
You can decide to accept the moisture content or prevent it. It might be just a few ml of water in an entire large tank, but pressure + water + metal is present in the tank if high pressure drying isn't carried out.
User's choice. Just don't ever mention what you are doing in the diving community. You will be ridiculed.
Logged
Seattle WA
Geoff
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 5449
yes
Real Name: Geoffrey
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #9 on:
January 24, 2017, 12:58:31 PM »
I know i get moisture from my shoebox 4500 psi.
I have a desiccant filter AND a water separater between the shoebox and my first compressor and still get moisture, though none in the filter or separater.
The way i know this is when i disconnect the fill hose to my tank, some moisture is on my fingers from the air blowing out. NO, i dont wait until all the air has released once i turn off and vent my bleed hose AND first compressor fittings.
I cant decide if it is worth, what 300$, to stop this from happening.
I keep my shoebox in the basement where temps are in the 65-70 degree range depedning on the season. Right now it is 65 down here.
Logged
Indiana
*********************************
***** Check out GTA chat *****
*********************************
Mrod 177cal LW barrel
Disco double with BNM breech and shroud 22 cal
prod double tube
prod
RWS 52 177
CFX 177
TX200HC 177
397P nickel
daisy 853
2250xt
Winchester 850 22
2289 backpacker
umarex octane 22
beeman silver kodiak
Beretta Storm CX4
umarex fusion
crosman 1077
xs60c 22cal
CP1M 177 cal
Browning 800 mag 22 cal
crosman 357
Daisy 717
rsterne
Member 2000+fps Club
Bob and Lloyd
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 26958
GTA Forums Person of the Year 2017
Real Name: Bob
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #10 on:
January 24, 2017, 03:38:39 PM »
If you feed any compressor with air at 3% humidity at 100 psi, and compress the air to 4500 psi, you will end up with air saturated with water vapour (3 x 4500/100) = 135%.... You need to feed any HPA compressor with the driest air possible, or you will end up with water in your tank.... The good news is that when you use your tank to fill your gun, the air in the gun (which will be at a lower pressure) will no longer have 100% humidity.... If you start at 100% at 4500 psi, and fill a gun to 3000 psi, you will have 67% RH in your gun.... The only way to be 100% sure you have dry air in your HP tank is to dry the air after it is compressed to 4500 psi....
and BTW, I don't, I just dry my air after my shop compressor.... using two silica gel moisture traps in series, and reactivate the gel by heating before the 2nd one turns pink (from blue)....
Bob
Logged
Coalmont, BC, Canada
🇺🇦
Dominion Marksman Silver Shield - 5890 x 6000 in 1976, and downhill ever since! 🇺🇦
Airsenal:
1750 CO2 Carbine, .177 Uber-Pumper, .22 Uber-Carbine, .25 Discovery, 2260 PCP 8-shot Carbine, 2260 HPA (37 FPE), 2560 HPA (52 FPE), XS-60c HPA in .30 cal (90 FPE), .22 cal QB79 HPA, Disco Doubles in .22, .25 & .30 cal, "Hayabusa" Custom PCP Project (Mk.I is .22 & .25 cal regulated; Mk.II is .224, .257, 7mm, .308 & .357; Mk.III is .410 shotgun and .458 cal), .257 "Monocoque" Benchrest PCP, .172/6mm Regulated PCP and .224/.257 Unregulated, Three regulated BRods in .25 cal (70 FPE), .30 cal (100 FPE) & .35 cal (145 FPE), .257 Condor (180 FPE).
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #11 on:
January 24, 2017, 06:20:59 PM »
Everyone,
Thank you for your responses. What I can't get my head around is how we start with a relative humidity of say 3% ok? I'm just gonna use general concepts as I am a computer science and not a physics major. I did take a year of physics in high school though. I wish I had taken more but it's never to late to learn.
So back to what I was saying. Lets generalize and say at 3% humidity, at 70 degrees and 100 psi, there is 1 ounce of water vapor in a cubic foot of air. If we compress this air to 4500 psi to fill a 46 cubic foot tank say as a generalization that it took 100 cubic feet of air. so my brain wants to think that the tank has the same proportion of air to water as it did at 100 psi since we're not only compressing air or adding more water vapor from somewhere. So now we have 100 cubic feet of air and 100 ounces of water vapor. Why is the humidity not 3% but instead 45 times that? This is what I don't understand. In a closed system where does the extra water come from? I understand that in an open system the water vapor will be drawn to the abnormally dry air and maintain equilibrium.
I get what dew point is. I get that warmer air can hold more water. I also get that increasing pressure increase the dew point. Since we are mechanically stripping the water out of our air it can't reappear in a closed system.
So say we have a cubic foot of air in a sealed container at room temperature of 70 degrees, at normal atmospheric pressure and a dew point of 60 degrees. If we drop the air temperature down to 40 degrees fahrenheit water vapor will condense out. So we remove this condensed water and some outside air will be sucked in to take up the volume of the water we removed and equalize pressure from the internal air contracting. Lets just say it is miniscule enough to not affect our experiment. If we bring the sealed container back to 70 degrees the effective dew point has decreased correct?
I am going to stop here for now because my brain needs a break lol. I hope what I'm saying makes a little sense.
Thanks for all your help in trying to clear this all up!
Taso
«
Last Edit: January 24, 2017, 06:23:00 PM by taso1000
»
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #12 on:
January 25, 2017, 10:07:43 AM »
"In a closed system where does the extra water come from?"
It isn't extra water. It is water that is already present in the air. What has changed is the volume in which that same amount of air and water are now squeezed into. The decreased volume is not able to hold the same amount of water. So, it has to condense and humidity level goes way up.
Think of it more easily as the water being incompressible while the sponge in which it is being held (the air) is squeezed by the compressor. You mechanically wring the water out. That water has to go somewhere. Whether it is mechanically separated, absorbed by a drying filter, or pumped into the tank. It continues to exist. It is not destroyed by compression.
The pre-dryers help by being a bulk water remover, just like a mechanical separator. Just remember that compression will still increase the RH% of the pre-dried air. You need it extremely low recompression if your goal is a low RH% at the compressed side. Hence, the big boy compressors always bulk remove water and follow up with a high pressure dryer.
Logged
Seattle WA
limbshaker
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 822
yes
Real Name: Chase
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #13 on:
January 25, 2017, 10:19:22 AM »
Man, I would save the money from buying all that stuff and buy another air rifle.
I have a very early Shoebox, zero upgrades. I live in the always humid southeast. I have a little water separator at the inlet of my Shoebox, and haven't seen a drop of water in it in 5 years of use. I think the air moves slow enough through my 6 foot hose that it condenses in the hose and runs back to the compressor.
And for the Shoebox outlet at 4500psi, I just open the bleed while it's running once an hour, or every half hour. There is always a puff of condensation that comes out.
That being said, I've never seen any moisture at the end of my 30" whip hose coming out of the Shoebox. So I never could justify the cost and hassle of adding anything else.
All of my PCP airtubes have been apart for reseals or work over the years, and I've never seen any corrosion in the tubes.
If I were you, before I spent all the extra money on filters, driers, and all that, I would just hook the thing up and see how much moisture you get from the end of the line. You may decide you don't need any of it....
Just my opinion, and what works for me.
Logged
Decatur, AL
A few junky old spring powered Weihrauchs, couple of precharged Weihrauchs, a couple beat up old FWBs, a smoothbore Krico, an electric Daystate and an Ataman pistol..And drawers full of pieces of all of the above...
Booger
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 7641
Deceased
Real Name: Jesse
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #14 on:
January 25, 2017, 10:50:30 AM »
I use a home made desiccant filter 2.5" round 15" long from my shop compressor, and another Home Depot desiccant filter on top of my shoebox. When the filter on my shoebox starts to change color I will replace the beads in my home made filter and replace my Home Depot filter with a new one.
I hope this would all I need for my guns, it is not like I am breathing the air in my tank. LOL
Logged
Rice, Texas
.177 Puffers
Daystate MK4
MROD Rocker tuned
Varmint F/S
.22 Puffers
Daystate Air Wolf MTC F/S $1865 + shipping & Ins
Jumpers:
.22 Diana K98
.22 Hatsan 95
.177 NP2 Upgrade Trigger F/S $175 Shipped
Heirloom:
.177 Pro Sport 12 FPE - Rowan Eng. set back trigger, alum trigger guard, adj butt pad, tuned with Maccari parts, refinished stock that is amazing.
Sun Optics 4-14X44 FFP really nice scope.
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #15 on:
January 25, 2017, 11:30:47 AM »
Airguns do seem to be more tolerant of water. Yes, the air going into the gun will depressurize and drop in RH% relative to the tank. Does that also mean tanks and valves in airgun tanks are also more resistant to corrosion than those used for diving? It's the same tanks, just we have it at even higher pressure.
On the other hand we're talking about $400 for a good quality high side filter to protect thousands of dollars in tanks and guns.
Owner's choice how much protection one wishes to bet upon.
«
Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 11:39:59 AM by guykuo
»
Logged
Seattle WA
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #16 on:
January 25, 2017, 12:03:40 PM »
Chase,
What's the fun in that?
And if I get this set up right I can supply more pcp's.
Guykuo,
So you're mostly talking about the 10% of water vapor that's left over after all that I have removed. I think I am understanding now. So in the end I will still have some condensed water in my 30 minute scba tank. That I get.
So is the claim that < 50% humidity will not allow corrosion wrong? I was curious and searched for water and hpa. I didn't find anything to confirm it but I think that if there's moisture and oxygen, a lot more in hpa, that corrosion will happen. What would be cool is if we could use some corrosion inhibiting treatment in our hpa vessels that isn't combustible.
All,
I may have found a better deal, cheaper
, on a membrane air dryer that will bring dew point to -20 celsius. Also I think a small hvac heat exchanger instead of 50 foot of copper tubing will work better and be cheaper. At the shoebox flow rate I doubt there will be any significant flow reduction from all the tubing bends versus the straight flexible copper coil.
My water separator order was cancelled by the seller.
So I'm still looking for a particulate/oil filter and a water separator.
I'm learning a lot and my design is getting more refined and cheaper, if everything works out. I will definitely be using the Drierite canister right before the Shoebox.
Hopefully tonight I will be able to post pictures and a system layout.
Thanks!
Taso
«
Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 12:06:31 PM by taso1000
»
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
Frank in Fairfield
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement."
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 6864
Real Name: Frank
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #17 on:
January 25, 2017, 12:12:11 PM »
As you can see I run my Max with two desiccant filters from HF.
Works good for me.
When the beads change color, I dump them out on a metal plate and heat them til they turn back.
Good luck.
Logged
Fairfield, CA, USA
AA TX200, .177 (2)
Avanti 499b
Baikal IZH46M
Baikal IZH60
Beeman P17
Beeman R1, .177
Benjamin PRod
Crosman 2240XL
Crosman 2300S
Crosman DPMS SBR
Daisy Model 25, Variant 15
Diana 6M
FWB 601
Sheridan (Crosman) C9a
Weihrauch HW35e, .177
guykuo
Shooter
Posts: 92
yes
Real Name: Guy Kuo
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #18 on:
January 25, 2017, 12:23:10 PM »
Yes, I'm talking abut that residual amount that comes out post pre-filtering and mechanical separation. A high side filter can only handle a small volume. It simply is very good at drying down very low AT output pressure and temperature. The lower side filter or mechanical separator gets out the bulk. The high side filter takes care of the residual to drive things super dry.
I haven't found any good information about RH% vs corrosion rate at our high pressure air levels. In the absence of that, I chose to follow high pressure gas and diving industry practice and try to get things down to -55F condensing. Basically, avoid the gambling aspect completely.
Mucked up gun internals I can tolerate. What I really don't want happening are corrosive effects at the threads of high pressure vessels. There, it is a tight space, where just a little moisture can wreak havoc once a point of corrosion begins. One might get away with it. I think lots of air gunners DO get away with it. Problem, is that won't be detected until disassembly and close inspection or something really bad happens. You
can
find some scary images of corroded tank internals and threads getting eaten away.
The small volumes of water I am worried about probably won't be detectable once one depressurizes a tank. It will vaporize. Also, if corrosion IS happening, that small volume of water may well be used up in the chemical reaction. How many of us are taking a sample of our compressor air output and submitting it for $200/$300 gas analysis? No one. We are left with trying to do the right thing by following known safe procedures.
This is a case where all will look good until it isn't. With 2 grenades worth of energy in my CF tank and filling the tank while in close proximity to it, I opted for more caution than less.
«
Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 12:25:57 PM by guykuo
»
Logged
Seattle WA
Taso1000
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 3610
yes
Real Name: Taso
Re: Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor.
«
Reply #19 on:
January 25, 2017, 12:41:17 PM »
Guykuo,
I definitely agree safety is top priority. Maybe we should get hydrotests more often than 5 years?
My only reservation with the 4500 psi filter was that I read somewhere that they saturate faster than expected? Plus there is a much smaller volume for media versus what can easily be built at home for use at ~125 psi. So a much larger amount of water vapor can be removed before the Shoebox.
So since it is easier on the low side why not try to remove the most we can? That's all. No method is more or less correct. But my intent is not to produce breathable air.
That's a discussion for others lol.
On the aftercooler, can anyone estimate how much of a temperature reduction will 25,000 btu make? Say our inlet temp is 100 or 200 degrees farenheit. I've attached a picture of the cooler I found. I don't think it is the exact model because the one I'm asking about is 8" by 8" for $31.
Thank you,
Taso
«
Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 12:44:42 PM by taso1000
»
Logged
Orland Park, Illinois
Print
Pages: [
1
]
2
3
...
15
Go Up
« previous
next »
GTA
»
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General
»
PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside"
»
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2
»
Water removal recommendations for Shoebox compressor?