All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > Share Your Simple Home Projects (TRICKS-N-TIPS)

Barrel Bending 101

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Having gotten into a discussion about bending a barrel versus a droop compensating mount, I was curious about the scope rail after bending this barrel. So, my final test was to slap a scope on this Blackhawk to SEE exactly how the scope lined up. I was wondering if the bending actually made a droop adjusting mount or shims a requirement to get a scope on target.
Looking around the shop I snatched a not so expensive 3-9X32 glass off of a Powerline 1000. The mounts were already installed so all I did was clean the dovetail with alcohol and strapped the scope on. Eye relief was good so I set a target out at 26-27 yards and fired away. I was able to walk this scope in with just a few clicks. No compensating mount system or shims needed.

Call it luck or call it a VERY good writeup by Tom. Either way this Blackhawk, after bending the barrel, is a definite winner, with irons OR glass!!!!

Thanks for a great lesson.  I've only bent a barrel once but all I used was a wooden block and a 5# hammer.  It did the trick but of course I had no control on how much it was bending .  If I ever do it again, I'll use your method.

I just throw the barrel in my milling round vise and lean it in the direction I need it to go in. I go too far and then bring it back to the desired position. That is pretty much the only way it will stay the way it is bent. The process needs to end with a barrel void of stress and not wanting to rebend to where it was. Especially a barrel breaker that usesthe barrel as a cocking arm.
Often you look through them (guns that don't hit where they look) and they are bent in the direction they shoot. In that case you may just be putting it back where it started out.
When guns get triggered off they shoot high. When someone manhandles them while cocking they often get bent down. The enormous leverage Springers have gives the ability for a moderately strong person to do a lot of unintended damage with that leverage. Coming hard against cocking stops and slamming barrels shut does a lot of springers in over time.
I've straightened so many barrels in my life it is silly. Comes with the territory. It was the first thing my Grandfather taught me when I was a child and I he threw a bent barrel at me almost every time I worked. It is how you get good at stuff.
Bending barrels into the sights is something spring gun makers have been doing for decades and is often the reason the guns won't work with a scope because they have been bent to work with a peep or irons.
Once you got it pointing where you want the users must be schooled so they don't change the POI relative to the POA.


I'm about to commence to bending on my .22 xs25.  Assuming I have a centered scope, at what distance should I attempt to get the POA and POI to initially intersect? (~770fps .22 cal)  Perhaps the better questions is, should I leave my POI a little low, and if so, by how much?  I shoot in my basement a lot (9 yards), and that's where I'll be doing the bending.  (but I hope to use the gun outdoors, in an all out war on squirrels, at some point in the future...)  Thanks.

I've read that back in the day gunsmiths would heat and tap with a hammer barrels of dueling pistols to zero them. This rig you have shown might fix a couple of my old B3's and I've got a TF89 I bought at a pawn shop hits about an inch high with the rear sight all the way down


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