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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > 3D printing and files

3D printing tips and trick.

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Insanity:
I had done quite a lot of major changes to my Ender3 and I had been struggling to get a good base layer put down. Well after getting over my ego of I have done everything to the T to level my bed I changed my layer settings to default in Cura and then did a hot level while printing. All issues solved for about half of my print bed, I need to do the other half but it was good enough to get a better print for a customer. Some times our knowledge surpasses our common sense and we over look the obvious as we are just too smart to even consider that is a possibility.

I have a print to hot level the bed while printing and one for a cold level with a feeler blade. I got so stuck on just using the feeler blade that the print leveling was ignored. That had cost me over half a spool of filament with failed prints.

NAIAD001:
Relatively new to 3D printing. 2 months under my belt. Loving it so far. Some things I've learned on this voyage:

1. As you have said, keep the bed clean. I use 50% Isopropyl Alcohol at least once every 2 days of printing.
2. After having little success with the Ender 5 Pro's default magnetic plate , I upgraded to the Creality ultrabase glass bed, which is awesome for $20 and helps with leveling as the metal base is prone to warping.
3. Using PLA mostly, I always have the bed at 60 Degrees, this helps a lot.
4. Ensure you are getting 100% extrusion. Do a test by marking the filament at the entry point of the extruder out to 100mm, 110mm and 120mm. Heat up your nozzle. Then extrude 100mm in your feed setting. This will  highlight if you are over/under extruding. In any case, adjust your ESTEP settings. Best video for this is here: Cant post the link, but the title on youtube is: Fix Under Extrusion With Extruder Calibration (Estep)
5. Purchase a dual drive extruder head. This will prevent any filament slips which also cause under extrusion.

With all of this said, I have never had to use anything to help with bed adhesion.


Andy

luge007:
No idea how I missed this thread almost a year ago, but the site is getting SO BIG.


I agree with Andy on pretty much everything he said.  As a noob to 3D printing with only 40 or so successful prints, I have learned a lot (with quite a bit of help from Geo via PM)
I tried EVERY trick to get glass bed adhesion and nothing worked well for that first layer bond.  I THOUGHT I had it down, then about a half hour into the print, it would pop, lift, or curl up an edge.  Out of desperation and wanting to get a crank bait print done, I flipped the bed over to the plain glass side, cleaned it obsessively well with isopropyl alcohol and let her rip.  Combined with changing the bed temp to 61 degrees in the LCD screen helped too.  I found printing the PLA at 204 also helped with layer adhesion a lot, especially running at 100% speed. 


I too struggled with bed leveling for a bit, tried feeler gauges, different papers etc. and it sort of worked but the first layer was still not perfect.  Setting "level" with the bed at operating temperature turned out to be the key to a great first layer. 


Maybe not the right place to bring this up, BUT. are the temperatures listed on the filament spool and recommended online the 'set' temperature on the machine, or the ACTUAL temperature verified by an infrared thermometer?

Insanity:
If I ever have a part that dose not stick well I do a brim to help keep it down.

One-Shot:
Regarding the issue of bed leveling, and having the first layer print correctly, and sometimes it’s easier said than done with some printers, a simple solution is to change the orientation of the part by lifting one side by 3 degrees. A square part will essentially print the contact edge only, and not the whole face/surface. Back in 1995 when I owned my first 3D printer, this is how I built every part. Support material was my friend :-)
This also prevents the parts from warping by a considerable amount, because there isn’t as much stress being introduced into the material by trying to bind it to the table, and other variables in regards to temperatures and cooling
effects etc

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