Donation Donation
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > Share Your Simple Home Projects (TRICKS-N-TIPS)
Barrel troubleshooting and accurizing how-to
sobdiver:
--- Quote from: nervoustrigger on December 03, 2020, 03:08:32 PM ---Thank you sir! A large portion of this guide is about addressing workmanship issues or things that aren’t really bad per se but just less than ideal. So for example you can reasonably expect a LW barrel to have a good bore but the crown, leade, and
barrel port are all at the mercy of the person who machined it for whatever gun it’s going into. Hopefully they’ve put in a level of care commensurate with the barrel’s pedigree but maybe not.
If you are concerned about potentially doing more harm than good, my suggestion would be to at least push through a few different pellets, just as you’ve said, and inspect them under magnification.
Personally, I almost always retouch the crown and I hit the leade if I can detect even the slightest smearing at the skirts. And if the imprinting of the lands onto the pellet head shows any striations under a 5x loupe, I go ahead and do the J-B bore polishing.
--- End quote ---
Thanks! If I decided to polish the bore, would this work? I have some .177 cleaning pellets. Could a put on a dab of kroil and some J-B on the cleaning pellet and push from the breech to the muzzle the cleaning pellet with a 1/8” wood dowel and before the cleaning pellet exits the muzzle, flip the barrel over and push back towards the breech, then rinse and repeat? Maybe 100 strokes or so, periodically refreshing the cleaning pellets?
Prior to messing with the barrel if I do, I’ll probably confirm that I can buy a replacement from Crosman should I jack things up. :)
TF89:
Those barrels are actually harder than you think. Even when lapping with a lead slug and JB it takes some effort to get out the tight or rough spots. Of course if using a steel rod make sure there is no metal to metal contact.
Using the higher grits will work faster and care must be taken to go slow. Always check as you work by pushing pellets down the barrel to get a feel of what is taking place. I personally push about 5 pellets through and mark on the barrel with blue tape and a marker where the tight and loose spots are. I keep checking as as I work to monitor was is actually happening inside the barrel.
I personally think pouring lead into the barrel with the jag method allows for a better feel of what is taking place inside the barrel. While more work it really concentrates the polishing where it most needed.
I went off on a tangent and what you are wanting to do will help a little and smooth out some of the rough spots. IMHO you will not hurt the barrel doing what you are suggesting. I'm not sure your wood dowel is going to be able to handle it however. Just my 3 cents.
nervoustrigger:
Well I don’t like doing anything from the muzzle end that deals with bore polishing. Pretty well assured to round over the rifling at the crown. Probably okay if you’re going to turn right around and dress the crown with the brass screw technique. Otherwise I would avoid it.
If you don’t have a suitable ball-bearing cleaning rod to do the job, consider fire lapping. It’s a pretty conservative approach that can do no harm. It’s kind of at the opposite end of the spectrum of a poured lead lap.
TF89:
Those are wise words Jason and goes for any barrel. Thanks for catching that.
sobdiver:
I had to look up fire lapping. Can’t say how disappointed I was that it didn’t involve lighting anything on fire :). Also had to look up poured lead lap. Wow, I’m learning a lot.
I researched some double ball bearing cleaning rods in .177 and saw some that were 36” long. Seemed a like might be a little unwieldy for my 12” barrel? Were there any recommendations?
I might be getting a little ahead of myself, but I’m enjoying the knowledge. I’ll plan to touch up my crown with the brass screw technique and assess the leade, barrel port, and bore. Thanks for all the good info!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version