Pellet Trap
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Pellet Trap
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Topic: Pellet Trap (Read 15314 times))
shootstraight
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Pellet Trap
«
on:
August 15, 2010, 12:33:25 AM »
Whats a Good Pellet trap? I've got a 10 yard inside range (also called a garage) and I've been shooting paper targets into scrap wood, I'd like to upgrade to a better system. Any thoughts?
Cheaper is better but I'd like to hear what everyone else shoots at even or especially if its home made.
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PA1911
Plinker
Posts: 210
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #1 on:
August 15, 2010, 01:04:45 AM »
Im getting ready to build my own traps. I am building wood boxes the size of a clipboard about 5 inches deep and filling it with duct seal. Something like this:
PA1911
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shootstraight
Guest
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #2 on:
August 15, 2010, 01:53:52 AM »
Thanks. Great answer
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oldpink
Guest
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #3 on:
August 15, 2010, 05:51:59 AM »
Another option (although noisier) is to use one of the bullet traps rated for .22 rimfire or larger.
You don't have to dig pellets out of duct seal that way, as they have a tray in the back that allows you to simply pull out the bullet fragments all at once.
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Pete
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2297
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #4 on:
August 15, 2010, 06:03:52 AM »
Hi...
what I use is 10mm thick conveyor belt hanging free fro the top ..stops pellets dead
very little noise and none come back for a visit...lasts for ever..
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New Zealand
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LongIslandArcher
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Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #5 on:
August 15, 2010, 09:17:08 PM »
I got one of these:
http://www.@#$%^.com/airgun-pellet-trap-s/6.htm
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TCups
GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 4072
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #6 on:
August 15, 2010, 09:21:59 PM »
One thing about the duct seal putty. Remember that you will not be repairing the divots between every shot. The next pellet that goes down the same hole pushes both a bit deeper. I think 3-4 inches of duct seal putty in the back of any pellet trap is a good idea. Some folks put a metal plate in the back of the box as well. BTW, just for the record, 3-4 inches of duct seal putty will also stop a standard velocity 22LR effectively.
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Davee1
Plinker
Posts: 128
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #7 on:
August 16, 2010, 02:04:21 AM »
Yeah!!! Duct seal is the way to go. Two bucks a bar(pound) at Home Depot. I put my duct seal into a metal Electrical box...like the kind that contains all the breakers for a house. Its plenty deep for a few inches of duct seal, portable, and you can attach targets to it in many ways.
As to where you put the seal...you are only limited by your imagination.
But self-contained and portability is a very good thing.
That stuff will stop a pellet dead and make no sound. Try for a thickness of at least 2 inches and 3 is better. And routinely push in the holes made by the pellets/add more duct seal/move the stuff around.
Mine's been in use now for about 3 years. Best kind of target backstop ever...no sound to wet off the nieghbors, no rickoshays, and it stays where you put it...its stable. It dont melt in the sun, or crack in the harsh winter....its some baddass stuff.
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PA1911
Plinker
Posts: 210
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #8 on:
August 16, 2010, 02:24:11 AM »
Thanks for the tips about the thickness for the duct seal.
I have enough to fill one of the traps I built (I built three). I'll have to wait til I have spare cash to fill the other two. I'm gonna make mine able to slip over a 2X4. Im gonna put 2X4s in the ground a various ranges, then all I have to do is move the trap to adjust my ranges. I'll eventually have a trap on each 2X4.
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Yellowstone
Plinker
Posts: 156
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #9 on:
August 16, 2010, 12:51:40 PM »
Duct Seal $2.00 lbs scrap 1x6's $0.00 quite target in back yard priceless.
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SUPERFITTER
Shooter
Posts: 50
yes
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #10 on:
August 17, 2010, 01:36:53 AM »
I built a silent trap using a plastic bucket with a lid. A kitty litter bucket 9 inches square and 14.5 inches high works well.
Take the lid off the bucket and cut a 7-inch square out of the center. In the bucket fill it with pine bark chips to a depth of 2 inches and then cut a piece of corrugated cardboard with ears on it to fit the sides of the bucket. Compress the chips by pushing down on the cardboard and then taping the ears to the side of the bucket. I do this so I can dump out each layer if I have to change the cardboard or the bark and not dump the whole bucket at one time. I have only done this once to see how far the pellets have penetrated. With my Gamo Big Cat, I have not been able to reach the 6 inch deep cardboard point in the bucket.
Repeat this pine bark chip and cardboard process until the bucket is full. Now place two layers of cardboard on top of the last layer of chips. Replace the lid on the bucket.
You can hang the bucket on its side and tape your targets to the cardboard. As the cardboard wears out (big hole in cardboard) just glue apiece of single layer cardboard (cereal box, can pop box, etc.) and cut it to fit the opening in the plastic lid. A drop of white glue in each corner of cardboard is all that is needed to secure it to the corrugated cardboard.
Make sure that you dry out the bark chips before placing them in the bucket (mold may grow). Dump them out on a plastic sheet and leave them in the sun for a couple of days, or you can dry them in your garage or basement. Other materials may be used in place of the pine bark chips (cedar chips, sawdust from a sawmill, small chunk rubber pieces, etc.)
For a larger trap you can use a 5-gallon bucket with lid (Home Depot, Lowes etc.)
I hang my silent trap from the ceiling of the basement using the bucket handle on the front half of the bucket. For the back half of the trap take a wire coat hanger and cut the center of the bottom cord of the hanger (horizontal piece), and then drill a small hole on each side of the bucket to slide in the cut wire coat hanger. Now there is a place to tie a cord, one cord to the bucket handle and the other to the wire coat hanger hook. The trap can now be hung from the ceiling rafters.
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Michigan
lurch420gam
Marksman
Posts: 371
Real Name: Joel
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #11 on:
August 17, 2010, 05:07:32 PM »
I used a super cheap method that works great in my garage. I simply use a medium sized cardboard box about 12" wide x 18" high x 12" deep, then cut up pieces of old carpet to fit. Stack about 15 or so layers of carpet, or however many will fit inside the box, then duct tape the box closed. Tape a target to the front or back of the box, and shoot away. Just make sure not to turn the box where you'd be shooting at the side, as the pellets could sneak between layers of carpet and exit the trap. It cost me exactly $0, as the supplies are all available for free, or you already have them lying around the house or garage.
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wrnchbndr
Shooter
Posts: 96
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #12 on:
August 17, 2010, 09:35:37 PM »
I just picked up 10 lbs. of Duct seal at the local elec supply for .89 cents a lb. Went to Home depot first and noone there knew what I was looking for.
Regards Skip
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Yellowstone
Plinker
Posts: 156
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #13 on:
August 18, 2010, 11:08:56 AM »
I had three guys looking for it at Home Depot. I had a print out from the internet that show they had it. I kid that worked there looked at the other three and led all of us by the hand to where it was. . LOL
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gene_sc
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Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #14 on:
August 18, 2010, 12:02:43 PM »
I got a few of Timmy's home made pellet traps a couple years ago. They work out great. Use playing cards or regular Gamo targets. They fit perfect
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LongIslandArcher
Guest
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #15 on:
August 18, 2010, 12:07:47 PM »
Duct seal is in the electrical aisle at Home Depot and Lowe's.
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woogie_man
silence is golden,and not illegal
Expert
Posts: 1798
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #16 on:
November 18, 2010, 08:14:14 PM »
Heck phone books work great as well.
Where I work at we usually get around 60 or so phone books every 6 months or so. A double stack in a box works really well. Though you can still hear a fairly good "thump" when you hit it.
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North Dakota
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GTA Senior Contributor
Posts: 2547
Real Name: Edward
Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #17 on:
November 20, 2010, 08:29:00 AM »
I bought the GAMO cone pellet trap... shot through it in just a few hundred shots with the cfx... (14-16 fpe). my TX200 wrecked the last bit of it.
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Daysailer
Marksman
Posts: 437
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Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #18 on:
November 21, 2010, 01:24:07 PM »
Duct Seal Trap VS. Phonebook or ...
My pluses are far less (none) lead dust or residue to pollute your indoor range. Metal traps very bad for this.
Far less target confetti with duct seal. Catch area collects what little occurs. Most 'dots' just become part of the duct seal matrix.
Large safety margin for stopping your shoots. No guessing or hoping.
I can tell where every shot goes. No more guessing 'did that pellet go through this hole for an X or that hole for a zero.' (yes i clean my trap after every target. Part of my shooting zen routine)
I can reliably examine spent pellets for deformation and detect when a gun is loosing power. Not a crony, but it doesnt need batteries.
Easy to collect spent pellets for recycling to fishing sinkers, etc....
Here's mine.... 2x6 sides, 3/4" ply back w/20 guage steel plate backing, 2" duct seal, clipboard slots routed, $.59 handle. No near misses outside of clipboard margins. (i shouldnt practice offhand with the GTA Steroid target until my marksmanship improves)
Over 5000 pellets have stopped in this trap.
«
Last Edit: November 21, 2010, 01:35:22 PM by Daysailer
»
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JMJ in NC
Sharp Shooter
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Re: Pellet Trap
«
Reply #19 on:
December 02, 2010, 02:35:10 PM »
I recently made my own pellet trap.
Details here:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,2340.msg40725.html#msg40725
JMJ
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Hillsborough, NC
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Pellet Trap