GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: antithesis on June 10, 2021, 03:14:54 PM
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Short story, my kral PBS has a scope rail /frame piece that has a few casting "sprue divets" for lack of a better term.
I plan on sanding the high spots and filling the low with jb or steel stick.
First, which of these stand up to prep better?
And can you blast over this stuff and still blend reasonably well once you're ready for application?
If anyone has a word or 2 of wisdom to make this turn out reasonably well I'd appreciate it
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There is a low temperature solder made for dissimilar metals, I think we got it from the Premier or Lawson tool vender. I used it to solder the zinc / aluminum alloy frame on some 2240's I modified, that's what I would use to fill in the low spots. hth.
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There is a low temperature solder made for dissimilar metals, I think we got it from the Premier or Lawson tool vender. I used it to solder the zinc / aluminum alloy frame on some 2240's I modified, that's what I would use to fill in the low spots. hth.
Good idea, do you remember what it was called?
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Might be alumiweld, but Muggyweld has a few different alloys for different stuff https://www.muggyweld.com/ (https://www.muggyweld.com/)
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Might be alumiweld, but Muggyweld has a few different alloys for different stuff https://www.muggyweld.com/ (https://www.muggyweld.com/)
Thanks man. Bear in mind this is going to function like body filler more than anything else. It's not going to bear a load I just need something that I can blend to make the cerakote bond and look good
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Is the area steel or aluminum? If aluminum you might try the aluminum rods from harbor freight, they are the lower temperature alloy, I think the same as Muggyweld #1 that goes on with propane or maybe butane.
Biggest issue I've had with Muggyweld #2 was getting the base metal clean and keeping oxides off while you work. But when it works, it is strong. I have some of the harbor freight rods, but haven't needed them yet.
If it is steel or some other metal, I'd probably order some of the pot metal rods from Muggy.
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Is the area steel or aluminum? If aluminum you might try the aluminum rods from harbor freight, they are the lower temperature alloy, I think the same as Muggyweld #1 that goes on with propane or maybe butane.
Biggest issue I've had with Muggyweld #2 was getting the base metal clean and keeping oxides off while you work. But when it works, it is strong. I have some of the harbor freight rods, but haven't needed them yet.
If it is steel or some other metal, I'd probably order some of the pot metal rods from Muggy.
Firstly I believe it to be powder coated aluminum.
Secondly, this isnt a structural repair. I'll have to take a pic for you guys but it's purely cosmetic In nature. I just need to be able to sand the area flat and sandblast it to prep for a good cerakote job.
Also, is there any easy way to get powder coat off the whole part? Just incase sandblast doesn't do it all and I only have 5lbs of garnet to prep the part.
This is purely a cosmetic application and while I suppose pure metal filler might be best it seems a tiny bit overkill for the purpose
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I'd get the harbor freight rods, way cheaper than most other places for the same stuff. Watch some videos as there is some prep involved.
Does Ceracoat require baking to cure? If it does then epoxy won't work. Never done Ceracoat.
You can try soaking in Acetone to remove powder coat, the uncured stuff seems to dissolve, not sure about cured powder.
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I'd get the harbor freight rods, way cheaper than most other places for the same stuff. Watch some videos as there is some prep involved.
Does Ceracoat require baking to cure? If it does then epoxy won't work. Never done Ceracoat.
You can try soaking in Acetone to remove powder coat, the uncured stuff seems to dissolve, not sure about cured powder.
This type bakes at 300f, it's not TOO bad I know some composite resins might comfortably hold up to that
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Harbor freight rods would be my choice, next would probably be the highest temp JB Weld you can find at the auto parts store and hope it works.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html)
Need a propane torch and probably a fresh stainless steel brush. If you have an oxy-other gas torch, you can be more successful by running the flame as oxygen deprived. That will help prevent the aluminum from forming oxides while you work. Oxygen rich would be the opposite and you kind of get oxygen rich with a propane torch, at least my experience using these products with propane/butane.
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Harbor freight rods would be my choice, next would probably be the highest temp JB Weld you can find at the auto parts store and hope it works.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html)
Need a propane torch and probably a fresh stainless steel brush. If you have an oxy-other gas torch, you can be more successful by running the flame as oxygen deprived. That will help prevent the aluminum from forming oxides while you work. Oxygen rich would be the opposite and you kind of get oxygen rich with a propane torch, at least my experience using these products with propane/butane.
Or perhaps partially obstructing the air intake ports on my trigger torch....it makes the mapp or prop burn orange yellow, a fuel rich flame. Not to mention it will burn cooler helping reduce the chance of warping, etc
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That was a theory I never tried, so if it works let me know.