After cleaning/degreasing the compression chamber some folks say not to lube it. Some say light coat of moly. Iirc CDT said light film of Super Lube; for assembling not as lubing the gun. Since there’s so many of you experienced guys on this thread I thought I could get your takes on this. What say you?🤙🏼 ~ Mike
On the subject of tight guides: My HW95 would twang with a slide on delrin guide/tophat and teflon piston liner. The only way I could completely eliminate spring twang is with a twist on delrin rear guide.That wasn't the case with my Diana's, the guides didn't need to be as tight to be twang free. The new guns arrived oem twang free.
Quote from: thompsje on February 17, 2021, 09:58:05 AMI'm pretty much an amateur at tuning since I don't do it for other people, but what I generally do is- degrease the tube with brake cleaner- file/deburr the cocking slot- replace the seal (since it's most likely nicked)- new guide and top hat- light moly on piston, back edge of seal, and guidesI usually start with the OEM spring for this just to see what kind of difference changing guides makes. Since I have a small lathe I'm making the guide and top hat a tight fit to the spring, and out of a plastic called "slippery UMHW". It should be less brittle than Delrin, but I probably have less than 1000 shots on the first gun I put it in. Seems to be holding up, but I may try steel in the future. Generally leave the trigger internals alone in the German guns, but have replaced a bent trigger blade in an HW.I also feel like the initial teardown is a good way to get to know a new gun. That way if something starts acting weird in the future, I might have a better chance of figuring it out. Jeff,So you do not clean out the safety hole or the barrel detent?-Y
I'm pretty much an amateur at tuning since I don't do it for other people, but what I generally do is- degrease the tube with brake cleaner- file/deburr the cocking slot- replace the seal (since it's most likely nicked)- new guide and top hat- light moly on piston, back edge of seal, and guidesI usually start with the OEM spring for this just to see what kind of difference changing guides makes. Since I have a small lathe I'm making the guide and top hat a tight fit to the spring, and out of a plastic called "slippery UMHW". It should be less brittle than Delrin, but I probably have less than 1000 shots on the first gun I put it in. Seems to be holding up, but I may try steel in the future. Generally leave the trigger internals alone in the German guns, but have replaced a bent trigger blade in an HW.I also feel like the initial teardown is a good way to get to know a new gun. That way if something starts acting weird in the future, I might have a better chance of figuring it out.
Quote from: Aerofish on February 17, 2021, 06:00:07 PMAfter cleaning/degreasing the compression chamber some folks say not to lube it. Some say light coat of moly. Iirc CDT said light film of Super Lube; for assembling not as lubing the gun. Since there’s so many of you experienced guys on this thread I thought I could get your takes on this. What say you?🤙🏼 ~ Mike Hey Mike,Others may disagree, but I read CDT method thoroughly before beginning my first tunes in 2012.I have always used a 20 gauge shotgun swab and applied a thin coat of SuperLube w/PTFE in the compression chamber. Use it very sparingly as this will detonate if overdone, I have never had a problem with it even though others only use Molly. Have had a few detonations in the past with no damage done ...
Quote from: SpiralGroove on February 17, 2021, 07:28:42 PMQuote from: Aerofish on February 17, 2021, 06:00:07 PMAfter cleaning/degreasing the compression chamber some folks say not to lube it. Some say light coat of moly. Iirc CDT said light film of Super Lube; for assembling not as lubing the gun. Since there’s so many of you experienced guys on this thread I thought I could get your takes on this. What say you?🤙🏼 ~ Mike Hey Mike,Others may disagree, but I read CDT method thoroughly before beginning my first tunes in 2012.I have always used a 20 gauge shotgun swab and applied a thin coat of SuperLube w/PTFE in the compression chamber. Use it very sparingly as this will detonate if overdone, I have never had a problem with it even though others only use Molly. Have had a few detonations in the past with no damage done ... Kirk, does that film deisel off and leave a dry compression chamber or is there always going to have a film of lube? Thanks, just trying to wrap my head around the theory. ~ Mike
I posted a link on basic tuning in this thread, if anybody has looked at it? it will show about the right amount of lube on the piston seal and spring, if lubes are applied correctly in the right amounts they will not Diesel or migrate where their not wanted!
If I were to pre lube the tube that's the way I would do it Tom, burnish the lube into the metal, good info Thomas! [/quoteQuote from: Mark 611 on February 19, 2021, 03:44:51 PM If I were to pre lube the tube that's the way I would do it Tom, burnish the lube into the metal, good info Thomas! Thanks Mark. And i have and used honda moly too and never had any probs. I do like to add a dab of jm clear tar or eurogrease on the alreadied molyd pistons points of contact to the id of the comp tube. Like Ive said, i like my girls hot wet and juicy 😆🤪😁😉. Ok wet and juicy,...hot is an added benefit😉
If I were to pre lube the tube that's the way I would do it Tom, burnish the lube into the metal, good info Thomas!