Odd that there is a way to pressurize the gas ram, but there isn't a way to de-compress it. All I can suggest is to contact the seller, or whoever imports Hatsan to your country, or even Hatsan USA, and ask for guidance.We've all been idiots at one time or another, so casting no stones here. But if you do it again.......
Quote from: eeler1 on April 27, 2021, 11:01:50 AMOdd that there is a way to pressurize the gas ram, but there isn't a way to de-compress it. All I can suggest is to contact the seller, or whoever imports Hatsan to your country, or even Hatsan USA, and ask for guidance.We've all been idiots at one time or another, so casting no stones here. But if you do it again.......Agreed. Any of mine that could be filled without removing that ram from the compression tube had a small screw on the other side for degassing it and a hole in the receiver for slipping a screwdriver in there. Please take that with a grain of sale since the 130/135 series rifles are ones I've never owned but hopefully mikeyb sees this and chimes in while not totally sure, I think he found a way to de-gas rams with no screw to do it.
The Quattro is a Hatsan thing, although maybe they got a few ideas from the old UK built Webley's when they took over building them. Poke around, there's ways posted on here to adjust them and make them real nice and has to do with a bit longer screw in place of one of those front 2. Not Rekord or Diana (I have both Rekord and T06 triggered rifles) nice but still nice.Please do not quote me on this but when you try filling a Hatsan ram, there's a check ball inside the fill probe hole. You'll see it if you shine a light in there. Pressure in the ram keeps it closed. Higher pressure pushing on it opens it. While I've never tried, if you could find something that will fit in there and would/could be pressed hard enough to overcome the insane psi now inside that ram, you might be able to bleed it off. Of course you also take matters very much into your own hands should you decide to try and I have absolutely no clue what will happen other than what I'd guess would be a huge outflow of air considering that something like 4000 or so psi on the other side.
Random thought for something heavy would be an allen wrench with the short end ground down to a semi point to fit in there but again and can't stress this enough: should you try, you're likely getting blasted with the huge amount of excess air that's going to come out of that gas ram, so be insanely careful should you decide to try that route. Very likely to be very dangerous.You might wander YouTube and look for videos by a guy named Mike Ellingsworth. He's made quite a few on the Hatsan rifles as far as tear down and trigger tweaks.
First, I am a big Hatsan rifle fan even though MANY of their bargain rifles I get NEED rework and sometimes new parts.I received an overfilled Type3 Vortex in a refurb Edge. It came that way from Hatsan ($49 + free ship) which is one MORE reason I don't trust ANY factory technicians.Rifle was unbelievably loud, harder to cock than my Mod135, and shot UNDER spec compared to the other Edge rifles I've tested.I "though" I could unseat the internal check-valve everyone talks about and slowly bleed it down but NO JOY! I removed the Vortex from that Edge and installed a factory coil spring. Rifle shot PERFECTLY NORMAL after that. My next project was to find out what was inside that Type3 Vortex?VERY DANGEROUS! DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND TAKE ADEQUATE SAFETY MEASURES!I actually had to drill a small hole in the Vortex body to DEGAS it so I could unthread the endcap. Photo is of my disassembled Type3 Vortex. I was able to tap the small hole (opposite side of image) and glued a small grub screw in place to reseal it. I pumped it up to 125 bar and did put it back into that Edge for awhile. It performed exactly like a normal Vortex Edge should. However, I decided to go BACK to the coil spring and save this Vortex as an example of really thrifty (but incredibly stupid) engineering.If you look at the photo the lager hole in the endcap is for the Hatsan fill probe. This hole goes CLEAN THROUGH (no additional parts) to the small hole between the 2 o-rings. When pressure is HIGHER outside the Vortex, air travels through the small hole, UNSEATS the inner o-ring, and fills the chamber through the slot in the threads.When pressure outside is LOWER the o-ring RESEATS and keeps the air inside the Vortex spring.There is NO SIMPLE WAY to degas this air spring. Theoretically you could unthread the endcap and once the second o-ring clears the inside seat air will leak out. I could NOT turn the endcap while it was under pressure! That's why I resorted to the drastic and dangerous method of drilling the tube. Sandbags, 2x4's, and a 10' rope handle on my drill press kept me very safe, but I still had an extra pair of shorts ready just in case.Because the air volume inside the Vortex spring is very small, I highly recommend the use of a HAND PUMP to fill them. I've only used a hand pump to fill/refill my Vortex springs. I didn't log the data but I "think" it was less than 20 pumps to get this Vortex Type3 filled from 0 to 125 bar.GOOD LUCK!
I first drilled a hole in a 2"x4"x8" piece of pine lumber the same size as the BODY of the Vortex. I located this hole about 1/2" from the edge of the lumber. The Vortex body was a snug fit into this hole.Then I picked a spot on the Vortex to drill a 1/16" (1.5mm) hole without knowing the internal structure. I ended up clipping a few endcap threads. Not a disaster, but a couple mm further in would have made my repair effort much easier.I then drilled the 1/16" hole through the lumber into the spot I picked on the Vortex. The wood supported and steadied the thin drill bit so it didn't wander or break as it drilled the Vortex. I had a sandbag weight & shrapnel catcher in my path and used a 10' rope to crank the handle on my drill press. Kept a moderate steady pressure on the drill press handle. VERY anticlimactic when the drill bit broke through. Barely heard the "pssst" over the drill press motor. My hand pump gauge had indicated internal pressure was over 200 bar. Will never know what the actual pressure was. Since the volume is small the release event was nowhere near as violent as I had expected. Still dangerous so please use caution.My drill hole and grub screw repair has obviously compromised the tube strength. Since the Vortex is normally charged to only 125 bar, has a small volume, and is CONTAINED inside another steel tube during NORMAL operation. I consider it still safe for MY USE. If I ever sell or gift that Edge rifle it will be with the COIL spring. This modified Vortex will stay with me as-is until the END. I do have the option of stronger and more permanent TIG weld over the small hole in the steel tube, but then I will not be able to degas it. May also decide to further dissect (beyond repair) for study.
Wow. I’m a newbie and this thread and this forum are a great encyclopedia of airgun knowledge , as well as Do’s and Don’t’s!...
I'm glad you safely degassed it, but sad it had to be drilled to do it. It is a small volume so the quick "psst" is easy to miss!Don't discard your drilled Vortex too quickly. You can learn a lot from disassembling it. You may even find a non-destructive degas method that I missed or that works for your specific spring type.ALSO... that TIG weld repair I mentioned earlier should, if done correctly, be a safe method to seal the hole on the fairly thick steel tube of the Vortex air spring. Just don't OVER-fill it after that repair or you may need to drill it again!