GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Topic started by: BigBird on November 17, 2021, 01:08:30 PM
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Background and FWIW:
I don't have any higher carbon steel for .82x" size hammer for a 1"x.083" DOM tube. I do have 13/16" 303 SS which has higher mechanical properties but I have kicked my SS fetish due to its galling nature (doesn't mean it wouldn't work great for some things). It's just a sticktion issue I get when the HCS probe on my .429 bottoms in my SS breech. Fixed now. An SS hammer may get to a galling point where friction becomes an issue. I do have a 304 SS hammer that works great in a lego gun.
I was thinking about using Cherry Red to add some carbon to areas to the face and sear engagement area of the hammer.
Alternately, I could impale the front/center and engagement area with 5/16 O1. However I could do that if the case process fails.
A few good resources on other forums say adding carbon may work with good success.
With my projects I go from one to the next when I get bored or inspired so this may not be right away. I could order some other metal but wanted to try on an already hobbled together project (e.g. spring retainer melted instead of welded and still going to try to use it as a part).
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8221)
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Dan
I use a lot of 12L14 and 1144 steel for hammers, and everything else, and I don't harden anything,
I have never had any problems with these steels,
my QB 79 lite hammer has over 5000+ rds down the tube and no problems so far.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274743709040 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/274743709040)
HTH's,
Don
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any steel will do , even brass will work and its generally heavier..
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Oh great! I think I missed Don's response. Thanks Don and Rob! That's great news! I do have a 1144 one on my .429 that works well. I will Casenite the 1018 anyway. I am trying to figure out the springs on this one and hope to get a lot of force on it.
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I have never hardened any of the hammers I have made.... and never had any problems.... If you use a "drop sear" style trigger, like the MRod or PRod, you can even use MDS Nylon....
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/BRod Project/.highres/Adjustable Hammer_zpsgbuurzdm.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rsterne/a/0a8cc990-1df6-4f18-aa0b-1ed96c028474/p/d0fb0369-2f9b-492d-94cf-c96190644cf2)
The above is an adjustable travel hammer from my BRods.... Don't try this with a conventional sear, however, because the engagement drops to zero just before the trigger breaks, and it will round off the corner where the sear catches....
Bob
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I'm going to try my own trigger housing on this gun. It will have a traditional sear (not a drop sear). Not sure what it is called. It may use a sear from the paintball triggers that I replaced with a fabricated one. It will look a little more refined when I figure out how to place it and the trigger. The whole thing is a bit unplanned and I'm using some of the parts that didn't really work before (issues). However the barrel/breech is secured to and lazer alligned/honed to the tube. So I'm picking up speed.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8227)
Heres one that looks like crud but works. Made of 1144 which is like 100kpsi strength. When it has a sharp edge on the hammer and sear I want a stronger metal. That is my thinking.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=8226)