GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: c801tfd on November 03, 2021, 03:59:21 AM
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I got this Early (1925-1929) Straight Logo Crosman 101 couple of weeks ago off of the GB auction site, the great part is the seller only lived 3 or 4 mile from my house so there were no long delays for shipping, I had it in hand by 11 am the next day.
Overall it was in nice condition appearance wise ( metal has been painted at some point) and it would not hold air not even after an alcohol flush, so I tore it down and discovered a mix and match group of internal parts from early and late versions of the 101 and an updated pump cup, so someone tried to seal this one and make it work but had no success. Tonight I dug into my small stash of parts and came up with the needed period correct parts for the early version, changed all seals to new fresh ones and even installed a new pump cup, now it fires like new and with lots of authority at 6 pumps.
Now that I know it works mechanically I will tear it down again and touch up the wood, clean up the paint on action and compression tube as well. Tonight I cleaned off the paint that covered the blued and rifled barrel that this one and it’s sister have in common.According to records the steel rifle barrels were supplied by Remington for a short time in the 1920’s.
Currently it sports a Tasco scope I had laying around which is mounted on an inter mount Mac1 sells for the Crosman 101, 113, 114 and a couple others. I also installed a period correct cocking knob as it came with the later 5 ring version, and installed the correct tombstone peep sight as well due to someone making aV-notch out of the other one.
Looking forward to velocity and accuracy tests this weekend.
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Beautiful gun Elroy!
I have a 101 project for this winter and may be picking your brain along the way if you don't mind.
Are all 3 pics the same gun or is the 3rd photo the "sister"?
Reason I ask is the cocking knob on the un-scoped gun pic is like mine.
Oh and where did you get the valve tool?
Again, very nice and glad you were able to get it shooting again!
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Very nice rifle Elroy. When you resealed it with original type internals did you use an original football shaped compression spring?
Looking forward to your test results, and thanks for sharing.
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Nice work, great looking gun. Don't see to many 101s scoped. Mine is, like almost all my other guns...
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Very nice when an oldie gets a new life. Thanks for posting
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Scott,
Thank you, and I am alway glad to share what I know and happy to help out in any way I can.
All 3 pictures are of the same rifle the one with the white background is from the GB Auction site ( I like saving one so I can compare after I work on one). I was lucky enough that my 1947 101 had the small cocking knob that goes with this gun and this one had the 5-ring knob the 1947 one needed so it was a win win in that area for me. I plan on taking pictures of the sisters together soon as they are only seperated by about 800 numbers on the stamping found on the action under the bolt.
The tool I use I purchased from Baker Air guns, some people know how to make thier own tool, I am not set up for that and follow the advice of my father - always have the right tool for the job so I bought mine, here is a link to just the tool: https://www.bakerairguns.com/product/t1-t5-tool-for-crosman/ (https://www.bakerairguns.com/product/t1-t5-tool-for-crosman/) They also sell it as an option for thier seal kit as well, I think the combo price is around $55 for kit and tool.
However, when it comess to seal kit or other needed parts for the 101, usually I turn to Rick at Precision Pellets, he is very knowledgeable in this rifle and may also sell the tool that is needed.
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Scott,
Thank you, and I am alway glad to share what I know and happy to help out in any way I can.
All 3 pictures are of the same rifle the one with the white background is from the GB Auction site ( I like saving one so I can compare after I work on one). I was lucky enough that my 1947 101 had the small cocking knob that goes with this gun and this one had the 5-ring knob the 1947 one needed so it was a win win in that area for me. I plan on taking pictures of the sisters together soon as they are only seperated by about 800 numbers on the stamping found on the action under the bolt.
The tool I use I purchased from Baker Air guns, some people know how to make thier own tool, I am not set up for that and follow the advice of my father - always have the right tool for the job so I bought mine, here is a link to just the tool: https://www.bakerairguns.com/product/t1-t5-tool-for-crosman/ (https://www.bakerairguns.com/product/t1-t5-tool-for-crosman/) They also sell it as an option for thier seal kit as well, I think the combo price is around $55 for kit and tool.
However, when it comess to seal kit or other needed parts for the 101, usually I turn to Rick at Precision Pellets, he is very knowledgeable in this rifle and may also sell the tool that is needed.
Thank you!
I too believe in the right tool for the job IF it is available. I have been forced to fab spanners for vintage stuff I rebuild (motorcycles) out of sheer necessity but if the tool can still be had, I am all for that.
I agree, Rick at Precision Pellet is a wealth of knowledge, I have spoke to him many times.
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Gary,
Thank you, I dug into this one right away because of your 102 project and I needed to see what was going on with this one. I tried to fix this one using the mix match parts but could not get it to hold air, I then decided to dig up some older parts I still had and decicded against using the lighter wire football shaped spring and went with the heavier brass football shaped valve spring. The test firing I did last night included checking for residual air, of which there was none, each shot all the air was dumped at each pump cycle of 3 to a max of 6 pumps, also before leaving for work today I checked and it held all its air over night, so no leaks detected at this time. Looking forward to your progress on the 102.
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What's the serial number in the Breech?
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Gary,
Thank you, I dug into this one right away because of your 102 project and I needed to see what was going on with this one. I tried to fix this one using the mix match parts but could not get it to hold air, I then decided to dig up some older parts I still had and decicded against using the lighter wire football shaped spring and went with the heavier brass football shaped valve spring. The test firing I did last night included checking for residual air, of which there was none, each shot all the air was dumped at each pump cycle of 3 to a max of 6 pumps, also before leaving for work today I checked and it held all its air over night, so no leaks detected at this time. Looking forward to your progress on the 102.
Good report on your part. I'll install the o-ring style pump cup soon and see what happens. In between rebuilding the hydraulic leveling system on my RV I've been studying some very old threads about the pump cup verses o-ring and proper pump arm setting. A lot of folks have contributed on this topic and Bob Sterne has some absolutely great in depth information.
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Don't want to high jack your thread Elroy, but here is a link on the O-Ring vrs pump cup and cam over adjustments.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=77463.msg737664#msg737664 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=77463.msg737664#msg737664)
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Gary,
No problem, I actually enjoyed reading that myself. While there may be no gain in pressures under 10 pumps which is logical, the o-ring seal should help provide you with a significant amount of seal surface to tube surface contact on a worn compression tube as you mentioned.
My Dad used to call this a "Poor Backyard Mechenics" engine rebuild when he used set of oversized piston rings and crankshaft bearings in on a wore out engine, he said this is the only alternative in most instance if you cant afford a macine shop and the oversized parts were intended to up the compression in the cylinder head and the bearings were intended to increase the volume of oil circulating out of the crankcase all in the hopes of squeezing out the remaining life in an otherwise hunk of scrap metal, well his theory seemd to work, because I drove one of his rebuilds to school for 4 years.
Here is to hoping the o-ring seal helps reduce air loss and gives you enough sealing power to up the FPS to a reasonable standard or close to factory spec.
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DWTrull,
Sorry I forgot to response to you my most recent straight logo Crosman 101 (subject rifle) is stamped B3086, the one I got earlier in the summer is stamped B3922.