GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => American/U.S. Air Gun Gates => Crosman-Benjamin Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: PasadenaMike on October 30, 2021, 12:40:51 PM
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After messing with my pcps I got a 392. Guess What it was Leaking from new in the box. I decided to open it up and realized you can have it apart with your eyes closed and a multi tool if you had to. I cleaned up the valve and the problem was solved and learned how to work on one. I was curious for years how those went together turns out they can be fixed in the field without any issues.
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Agreed, they're extremely easy to work on. Ive had my 392 over 15 years, about 7 ago it developed a leak. Opened it up and it had some brass shavings from manufacturing stuck in the valve. Just gave it a cleaning, put it back together, haven't had a problem since.
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I’d say this is the ultimate survival gun
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Mike, is it a good shooter?
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Mike, is it a good shooter?
I haven’t shot it much yet I’ve been focused on some troublesome PCPs but hopefully soon it’ll get some attention. All it’s going to get are CPHPs that’s it
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Moved to Crosman/Benjamin gate.
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Because you say NIB.... I assume it is a cartridge valve model.
The early 392P with the soldered valve requires a special tool and a clean environment. (bench).
;)
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Because you say NIB.... I assume it is a cartridge valve model.
The early 392P with the soldered valve requires a special tool and a clean environment. (bench).
;)
It’s just as basic cartridge valve
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I’d say this is the ultimate survival gun
Agreed!
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This is a slight threadjack.
How much power are these current production 392s capable of with the Mac 1 treatment, pump linkage, etc.? I'm looking at a 20 grain .22 mold, so hoping it could work with that.
Is the Mac 1 kit easy to DIY and make max power, or does it really need to go to the source?
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I reckon if you have the tools, materials and knowledge you can do just about whatever you want.
Folks have been modding and improving in their home shops for years.
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One thing that needs to be mentioned, when reassembling the cartridge style guns. The stud that screws into the valve, and doubles as the nut for the stock screw, should only be " finger tight, plus 1/4 turn ". ( quote from Rick at Precision Pellet)
Any tighter, and you stand the risk of stripping the treads in the valve, because the stud bottoms out, in the valve, before it runs out of usable threads.
I believe it was purposely designed this way, to keep from pulling the valve too far to one side, and deforming the o-rings, thereby causing a leak.
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I found this out the hard way. I didn't strip threads but I did cause a leak by deforming the oring.