GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Wood Chop Shop (Working with wood) => Topic started by: Florida airgunner on July 31, 2021, 02:03:41 PM
-
Hi
I live in the florida swamp, and after some time the wood on my Diana 34 Classic is starting to warp on the left side of the compression tube. Any way to fix this and prevent it from happening again? Or should I go with synthetic stock.
-
This Beeman I guess is like yours?
The stock is even on one side but had a slight gap on the other?
Thing is I don't recall it like a hat from new or not . Really did not pay it no mind till I seen this thread.
I guess you could loosen the bolts ( forearm) and make sure there even tightened and that one side ain't pulling the stock over more ?
-
Hi
I live in the florida swamp, and after some time the wood on my Diana 34 Classic is starting to warp on the left side of the compression tube. Any way to fix this and prevent it from happening again? Or should I go with synthetic stock.
It doesn't look bad in the photo. You probably shouldn't mess with it but you might try using padded clamps to straighten it out and leave clamped for a week or more. The clamps might mar the finish. I was going to suggest moving to the Nevada desert but I had the opposite problem when I lived there. The wood dried out causing warps and cracks. :(
-
Hi
I live in the florida swamp, and after some time the wood on my Diana 34 Classic is starting to warp on the left side of the compression tube. Any way to fix this and prevent it from happening again? Or should I go with synthetic stock.
It doesn't look bad in the photo. You probably shouldn't mess with it but you might try using padded clamps to straighten it out and leave clamped for a week or more. The clamps might mar the finish. I was going to suggest moving to the Nevada desert but I had the opposite problem when I lived there. The wood dried out causing warps and cracks. :(
Alright
-
A fairly gentle warp like you show in your photo can be cured with heat. Wrap the area of the stock to be heated in a damp dish towel and slowly and evenly heat just the area to be bent with a heat gun. Then return the action to the stock and use padded clamps to clamp everything where you want it while it cools. Keep the dish towel damp while heating to prevent the wood from scorching. If you take it easy it will take a couple of applications to get it right but just be patient and don’t overheat the wood. I’ve used this process on furniture, picture frame molding, and musical instruments but I’ve never tried it on an airgun stock.
I’m in the swamp too! I prefer a traditional Linseed oil and bees wax finish on wood stocks. I think it is a more durable finish than varnish or polyurethane. It is also easier to maintain. In the final analysis a synthetic stock is going to hold up better and require less maintenance. But I prefer the look and feel of real WOOD! ;D
-
When the stock is returned to normal, however you decide to do that, make sure the barrel channel is sealed from moisture. A lot of times the barrel channel is left unfinished by manufacturers. I too prefer linseed oil and wax.
Also remember, wood warps toward the driest side. Think about how a sheet of plywood curls up towards the sun.
Dave
Dave