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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside"

JTS Aircuda Max .... TECHNICAL DATA & TUNING

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Motorhead:
* Please don't clutter this thread with random chatting ... stay on subject so ALL can utilize this resource effectively.  Thank you !
If others have information, data etc feel free to add it to this thread.

FOR CONVERSATION ON CONTENTS OF THIS THREAD ... Please openly converse here: [/b]https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=196353.msg156286643#msg156286643

Notes go with picture sequence best we can ...

Aircuda Max in .22 cal with a JTS 4-16x50 FFP scope ...

Trigger unit removed, side plate removed showing the internals.  * While it has the geometry of a 2 stage, it does not operate as one ... But a 1 stage with adjustable sear overlap and free play seeming like a 1st stage ( But is not )
AS VIEWED ... On far LEFT where spring sits on intermediate link, there is a 1.5mm set screw that adjusts Sear overlap.  The second 1.5mm screw on trigger blade ONLY adjusts the free travel before sear is contacted by trigger blade.

Barrel removed showing it THREADS into receiver with shroud mount also threaded acting as a jam nut to secure it firmly.  Metal baffles stack up against a semi-square air diverter at muzzle so air get into shroud.
* Make note the BRASS thimble "IS NOT Clockable " it to is threaded on. One must be VERY CAREFULL when R&R of barrel to make sure the Bridged transfer ends up being pointed down.  A Dot of paint can help here a bunch !

 Primary valve parts extracted ... Brass seat sits inside housing and poppet spring secured via a threaded cap ( You CAN change spring preload over a very broad range ) Plenum tube then screws on, followed by the Regulator tube where the Stainless Reg just slides in and rests on a machined shoulder. Gauge manifold fitting next for HPA and then primary air tube. 
* To adjust regulator you simply loosen the provided Bleed screw on left side below Plenum pressure gauge and dump all the air ... SLICK !!   Then unscrew the primary air tube forward of HPA gauge, insert a 3mm allen in adjustment bonnet of reg, adjust and reassemble ... Rinse and repeat until at wanted pressure. easy peezy  8)

Bottom view of the air tube / valve / hammer / trigger block.  To REMOVE upper receiver from lower .... Fill cap and barrel band off, Remove HST adjuster / spring and pull it out. Remove 2 screws on trigger assembly. Single screw
in rearmost hole behind trigger, 4 screws on forward valve block by plenum pressure guage, 2 screws in Magazine area ( 7 total ).  Have cocking lever out @ 1/2 way so the spring detent plunger & spring don't fly out !!  Lift the 2 half apart.  WaLa  ;D

Motorhead:
Doing some MODS .. or add-on was to get the .25 cal to power up w/o resorting to more hammer spring.  SO ... we added a small BRASS weight of @ 13 grams putting it in against hammer with spring on top ( Total hammer weight now @36 grams. )  Raised reg pressure to @ 155bar and we're making 50 ft lbs with JSB 25.4 kings @ 942 fpe and with 33.95 heavy @ 832 fps at 52.2 fpe maxed out.  Not too shabby for a carbine, not bad at all !

O' near forgot  ::)  How the .22 MAX shooting ... well detuned for some FT duty regulator at 100bar and set to the HST being right on the bell curve.  Crosman Dome 14.3 with 10 shots at 50 yards !!  Yea its a shooter !!

As a note of smoothing it up a tad, did remove hammer and scrubbed it down with 600 wet/dry.  The surface finish was very smooth but had bulk part pile micro frets here and there. All shined up smooth as glass.
Little bit of LIGHT machine oil on hammer, cocking pivots etc.  Gun was clean as heck, but not seeing much in factory lubrication present.

Out on the end of Shroud, when you remove the 1/2-20 LDC mount, you will see this threaded cover that has 2 spanner holes. It places the Baffles in compression when tightened having no rattles of looseness. Once srouds screwed on snug, stack in the baffles in correct orientation and snug down the retention cover, replace LDC mount and done. * It does screw on down @ 1/2" deep.

Rohmpm:
Scott, it appears as if the plenum is its' own section? If so,  could a plenum section/longer plenum simply  be screwed on to increase volume? Adding the same length as a suppresor would maintain the lines.

Motorhead:
By design correctly made ... longer or shorter.  Tho don't expect JTS to offer one.  These are quality economy air rifles first and foremost. As stated on other threads if an after market parts market develops it will be done within the private sector of air gun hobbyists as stated by Travis at JTS.

--- Quote from: Rohmpm on February 13, 2022, 12:01:19 PM ---Scott, it appears as if the plenum is its' own section? If so,  could a plenum section/longer plenum simply  be screwed on to increase volume? Adding the same length as a suppresor would maintain the lines.

--- End quote ---

Motorhead:
Another little snippet for those who may feel the "Need for Speed" and in that thought wonder what the Valve and transfer porting size is ?

BOTH the .22 & .25 are using the same valve housing and it has a massive @ .215" transfer path as does the receiver that matches up to it.
The brass Valve SEAT differs in only transfer exit size.  THROAT on each @ .236" ( 6mm ) using a Acetal looking poppet of @ .315" diameter with a .118" ( 3mm) stem.
IIRC the .22 valve body transfer passage exited at @ .165" where the .25 exited at @ .195" .... AGAIN into a .215" transfer path to the barrel.

Is there room to open things up further ?  Appears to be, tho for a .25 cal a .215" transfer is sufficient ++ and bore spec for a .22 cal, so no need there what so ever !!

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