GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => American/U.S. Air Gun Gates => Crosman-Benjamin Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Insanity on February 13, 2019, 01:45:30 PM
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I took this Benjamin Trail NP2 in on a trade knowing the barrel was bent. Has anyone straightened one? I have already settled on buying one so if it can't be done easily then I wont bother.
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A new barrel from Crosman is fairly inexpensive but if you want to try your hand at straightening it first there is a tool to build in the GTA Library: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/library/Charlies%20Barrel%20Tool.pdf (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/library/Charlies%20Barrel%20Tool.pdf)
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There are several examples of barrel bending jigs to be found here. NCED has a nice, simple one. But on mine, I just cock it, center the stock in my crotch and keep pulling down 'til it's where I need it. Mechanicaly center the scope and when the barrel looks close, start shooting at no more than ten yards. When it's close, a .020 shift at the muzzle is several inches at ten yards. Try to get it within 1" at twenty yards, if possible. Then use the turrets to fine tune it. 1" high will get you almost perfect at forty yards.
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I got all the scrap laying around just need a eyebolt to do that thanks.
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I took this Benjamin Trail NP2 in on a trade knowing the barrel was bent. Has anyone straightened one? I have already settled on buying one so if it can't be done easily then I wont bother.
I've been bending my HW barrels for years to get the poi within about 1" of the aim point at 30 yards using a home made "barrel tweaker", however your bent barrel may be problematic since it looks like the barrel was "released" when cocking which LOOKS to have the barrel bent at the joint where it was pressed into the barrel pivot block.
Anywhoo......here is my "barrel tweaker", however it's designed to put a gentle bend about "mid barrel" instead at the barrel pivot block.........
(https://i.imgur.com/kP9eWigl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/rsK0loXl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/nppgPMCl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/hCUutJRl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/9M6gXwNl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/mfVQ9Q4l.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/a3A9W5al.jpg)
If your barrel is bent at the pivot block perhaps a better solution would be to firmly clamp the removed barrel in a solid padded vise, put a length of PVC pipe over the barrel, then pull the end of the barrel down till the kink is removed at the pivot block, then use a "barrel tweaker" to remove any "mid barrel bending".
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Thanks Nced if the tweaker wont do it ill vice it and try to get the majority out. Im about to build one right now.
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I attempted to straighten it and its not really going well. So for $26 Ill just buy a new barrel. I will hold onto this one never know when having a 22 barrel around will come in handy.
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I attempted to straighten it and its not really going well. So for $26 Ill just buy a new barrel. I will hold onto this one never know when having a 22 barrel around will come in handy.
Don't know if your Trail NP is the same as my Prowler, but when I changed my barrel from .22 to .177, I had to also order the cocking link and pin that joins them together. Mine was permanently pinned at the factory. They sent me the two parts and the pin, which is flat headed on one end. The other end I had to peen myself.
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This platform seems to support 177 also so odds are they are the same or very similar.
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This platform seems to support 177 also so odds are they are the same or very similar.
They appear to be the same. My point is that the pin circled in yellow in this pic is not removable on your original, so if you order a new barrel, order the pin and a new cocking link. You'll have to flare or peen the new pin into place. (It's not a screw).
Look real close at either side of yours and you'll see what I mean.
The barrel and breech block come as one unit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/br5q0w8p/bent-barrel-GTA-pic.jpg)
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Ok thanks I will order all that stuff when I order the barrel.
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Ok thanks I will order all that stuff when I order the barrel.
Lemme know if you need any advice when you get the parts.
Been there, done that. :D
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Sorta looks as if the hole was not bore square into the block that the barrel mounts to. I'd order another block and replace that too. :(
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I did one a few years ago, and my straightening tool is very similar to Ed's. I'll see if I can find pics, but the thread should be here somewhere. I'll look for it too.
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I'm not sure but the barrel looks shouded. You're going to order the barrel. The present barrel is already bent. Before ordering the parts I'd try bending it.
It looks bent right at the barrel block. Easy. Maybe a towel to pad the shroud if you can't get it off.
Find a tree fork or anything to give resistance, fence post, chair leg. They way you have to push will open the breach. Open it before hand. If there's not enough room take the stock off.
My barrel bending jig is a 4x4 nailed to the edge of a 2x6, some scraps of wood blocks and a big "C" clamp.
Man, this is easy stuff.
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I'm not sure but the barrel looks shouded. You're going to order the barrel. The present barrel is already bent. Before ordering the parts I'd try bending it.
It looks bent right at the barrel block. Easy. Maybe a towel to pad the shroud if you can't get it off.
That's very similar to what I was dealing with- a bend at the barrel block. I used a 2x4 with a series of eye bolts and larger U bolts to accommodate part of the forestock when doing the bending. The difficulty was in finding exactly where the tension needed to be placed. It took me a few days, because I'd place the gun in the tool, and let it sit overnight, then take it out and let it sit for awhile to check later.
(Oh, and I wrapped some leather I had around the barrel and padded the stock to protect the surfaces)
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I was just thinking, people bend barrels by accident all the time. Doesn't seem to hard. Doing it on purpose is pretty easy.
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Thanks all! One thing I seen was when i got it to straight in my jig the barrel looked kinked i can't get a picture of it so that's why I determined its not worth it. To answer the shroud question it all comes off.
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I'm not pushing you to just go ahead and buy the parts. By all means, if you can straighten yours, go for it. But just in case, here are Crosmans diagram and parts list for a Trail NP2BTN292SX (check to see if that's your model number).
You'll need parts #2 (barrel/breech block assembly), 6 (pin), and 15 (lever).
Again, make sure this is the model number of your gun. If not, type in your correct model number on this page.
https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/categories/200223634-Owner-s-Manuals-and-Parts-Diagrams
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLB0KR4W/Trail-NP2-diagram.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLtTLKws/Trail-NP2-parts-list.jpg)
Hope this helps, :D
Dennis
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This platform seems to support 177 also so odds are they are the same or very similar.
They appear to be the same. My point is that the pin circled in yellow in this pic is not removable on your original, so if you order a new barrel, order the pin and a new cocking link. You'll have to flare or peen the new pin into place. (It's not a screw).
Look real close at either side of yours and you'll see what I mean.
The barrel and breech block come as one unit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/br5q0w8p/bent-barrel-GTA-pic.jpg)
With my HW95 the cocking lever is also riveted to the barrel pivot block, however the rivet could be easily pressed from the assembly (and reused) with a "chain breaker" from Harbor Freight...........
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html)
(https://i.imgur.com/vzhdTo0l.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/nmzZkBUl.jpg)
I don't know about the Crosman rivet but the HW95 rivet has "dimples" in each end like this...........
(https://i.imgur.com/0yWGRRjl.jpg)
This made it rather easy to re-flare the rivet ends after reassembly by sticking a ball bearing in the recesses at each end of the rivet with heavy grease and then squishing the "bearing-rivet-bearing" in a vise till the rivet wouldn't slide out in either direction. Have done this several times and a steel ball bearing doesn't even mess up the factory bluing on the rivet ends.
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Yes, the pin IS removable. In fact, it comes out easily. But, one end is flared just a tad. I have removed mine several times. And the pin is reusable.
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Yes, the pin IS removable. In fact, it comes out easily. But, one end is flared just a tad. I have removed mine several times. And the pin is reusable.
I stand corrected then. Thanks for that info.
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Stinger that looks like the same parts diagram I have. I will try and remove the pin what do i have to lose lol.
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Stinger that looks like the same parts diagram I have. I will try and remove the pin what do i have to lose lol.
For sure. Try and save some $$.
Keep us informed.
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One more thing, and don't ask how I know, do not forget the sling mount before reinstalling the pin. And get the arm in the right direction. ;) ;D
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Noted.
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The pin as described is tapered with knurling on one end. I was able to use a punch and tap it right on out without fuss. New barrel breech seal o'rings and a minor damaged part is on its way.
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The pin as described is tapered with knurling on one end. I was able to use a punch and tap it right on out without fuss. New barrel breech seal o'rings and a minor damaged part is on its way.
I'm glad that worked out so easily for you. My Prowler is a different design. Mine has no sling mount first of all, and mine does have a beveled head, like a flathead screw only without the slot or Phillips head impression, so I still believe mine is meant to be permanent. Especially for the amount of flaring that I had to do on the new one.
Anyway, again, happy that you were able to save some money.
So, are you going to be able to salvage the old barrel, or have you ordered a new one?
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The old barrel assembly is junk but the majority of the barrel is usable for a project. I did order a new one though in .22 as that is how it came I could have went 177 but decided not to.
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for a significant bent at the breech block...clamp breech block in vise and use a piece pipe cheater bar style to direct the force where you want it applied...dont be surprise if you fihd the barrel to be gently curved over more than half its length from the block towards the muzzle.....dont worry about that yet, just get he bend at the block under control then use a jig like NCED's for the milder stuff...
of course remove the barrel and block from the main tube first and suitable padding and finish protection to suit you are needed...
as NCED alluded to, barrel bending is a tuning tool box skill and you, like i once did, have the perfect crash dummy to learn on....the reason is because scopes perform best when their adjustments close to their mid points aka their centers.....to center a scope, i cut V notches in the sides of a smallish box, lay the scope in the notches, spin the scope while looking through it at a stationary object, adjust the dials to remove the "wobble"....once the scope is mounted i take Ed's advice and tweak the so that the point of impact is less than inch from the point of aim by starting out trying for about an inch high at 10 yards....then abit high at 20 and then just to 25 yards to see if the rifle likes and will continue to group with the pellets...if that works out i might try 30 yards to see if i can shoot the rifle itself and if all goes well it will be toss up if openess of the groups is me or the rifle...
the barrel i learned on is the one in my avatar pic....it had a bit more than 4" of rise after a sear spring failed while loading....i spent 2 hours timidly straightening its OD to perfection and 45 disgusted minutes brutally tweaking it to shoot to the point of aim...
(http://www.airgunhome.com/images/feinwerkbau2.jpg)
it aint junk unless its kinked
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it aint junk unless its kinked
I seen a kink in it when I had it in my jig and it was straight I may try again but for 26 dollars Ill just have a new one and a barrel for a project ether straightening or cut and stuff.
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Barrel came in today. Time to put it back together.
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Cool! Looking forward to see the finished product! :D
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And its back to firing will have to wait to scope it and see how it shoots.
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found this
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=49873.0;topicseen (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=49873.0;topicseen)
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Thanks Steve I have my jig all i will need to do is test it.
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Tonights progress and the name of the gun is Wookie.
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Tonights progress and the name of the gun is Wookie.
Yaaaaayyyyy for Wookie!! :D
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Some testing this thing will eat anything and fart it out on target.