LOTS of great info and options guys. I think I'll take this in steps. I'm going to grease through the cocking slot first. If that doesn't work I'll tear it down and put a kit in it. If I'm still not satisfied I'll send it off. Many many thanks for all the advice!
Quote from: BRAVO_4 on August 08, 2022, 02:44:22 PMLOTS of great info and options guys. I think I'll take this in steps. I'm going to grease through the cocking slot first. If that doesn't work I'll tear it down and put a kit in it. If I'm still not satisfied I'll send it off. Many many thanks for all the advice!Go lightly on the grease. I used a q-tip and only put just a tad on the spring working the q-tip through the spring to reach the other side. I didn't notice a tremendous amount of difference for the first 100 pellets, so I repeated the grease again. Just remember too much grease is bad.
I use Ed’s O-ring set up in my rigs and they work great, so plus 1 for the O-ring piston seal.
Quote from: bustachip on August 07, 2022, 09:25:26 PMI use Ed’s O-ring set up in my rigs and they work great, so plus 1 for the O-ring piston seal.Make that plus 2.My old piston seals looked like heck after a couple thousand shots- just like the photos he posted above. I tried to get a new seal working, but it just didn't wanna do right. So I sent the important part of the gun off to Ed and had him do his magic. My HW95 with the o-ring piston seals seems smoother and quieter than before.I can't get the tight groups he gets, but at least the gun shoots hard and doesn't burn up the seal.
If the gun wasn't put together right, then it was that way from the factory... I put about 3,000 rounds through it before it broke the spring and the seals were cracked to heck and back.I'll take Ed's seal over that factory seal any day of the week.
Yeah unfortunately that happens alot from the factory. Many of them come over lubed from the factory. Then they burn seals and break springs. Use whatever type of piston seal you like. I just didn't want people to think standard piston seals don't work.Have a great dayRon
Really if all your after is to eliminate the twang,all you need to do is remove the spring and send it to somebody with a lathe and have them turn you some tight fitting spring guides out of delrin.Then just clean all that goo out and relube it lightly with Krytox or Ultimox, and you’ll be good for as long as that spring lasts.TMurray.
Quote from: bustachip on August 08, 2022, 09:52:21 PMReally if all your after is to eliminate the twang,all you need to do is remove the spring and send it to somebody with a lathe and have them turn you some tight fitting spring guides out of delrin.Then just clean all that goo out and relube it lightly with Krytox or Ultimox, and you’ll be good for as long as that spring lasts.TMurray.I'd say stainless rather than delrin, but yes, that's prolly all it needs. OTOH an aftermarket spring from ARH or Vortek, with custom guides, should last longer.
Quote from: Keen on August 08, 2022, 10:23:11 PMQuote from: bustachip on August 08, 2022, 09:52:21 PMReally if all your after is to eliminate the twang,all you need to do is remove the spring and send it to somebody with a lathe and have them turn you some tight fitting spring guides out of delrin.Then just clean all that goo out and relube it lightly with Krytox or Ultimox, and you’ll be good for as long as that spring lasts.TMurray.I'd say stainless rather than delrin, but yes, that's prolly all it needs. OTOH an aftermarket spring from ARH or Vortek, with custom guides, should last longer.Years ago I played with metal spring guides and found that Delrin did a better job of killing twang and vibration than metal. Also, tight fitting metal guides either wear the ID of the spring coils or the OD of the metal guide gets worn if the metal is a softer type like brass and bronze. Anywhoo.......I've read that tight fitting Delrin guides used in heavy wire springs like those of the R1 can break at the flange. This may be true but I've never had a tight fitting Delrin guide break in my HW95 class springers.
If that doesn't work I'll tear it down and put a kit in it.
"What spring ID tolerance do you machine delrin guides to?"I use "fit by feel" instead of measuring/tolerances. The reasons are that spring coils aren't especially "close toleranced" due to the metallurgy of the spring wire plus tempering consistency. LOL, I've had springs that were tighter on one end than the other and a machined guide that was a bit too loose in the "larger end" would indeed fit properly on the other end. Still, I suspect that making a guide a couple thou larger than the nominal spring ID would be less twangy than a loose factory guide.By "fit to feel" I mean that the guide would push into a spring that has been "set" but can't be pulled straight out again due to the Chinese finger cuff principal..........To remove one of my fitted spring guides I need to twist the guide counter to the spring wind while pulling so the grip on the guide is relaxed a bit. When I cut a guide that's too loose it goes into a "perhaps a different spring" bin. If too tight to push into the spring it gets "shaved" a thou or so till it fits with the "proper" snugness.A couple things to note are that springs are smaller before "setting" when the gun is cocked so proper guide fit (what I call proper) is done after the spring is expanded by "setting". As a side note, I read that a spring life could be improved and the velocity not affected very much by first "scragging" the spring by compressing the spring to "coil bound" for about 12 hours. Well, I used a piece of threaded rod with a couple flanged nuts and found that the "scragging" cost me 100fpe with a brand new aftermarket spring vs one that was set by cocking.......... Another thing I do is to smooth the spring ends and remove the sharp ends of the last coil. Some go to the trouble of actually polishing the ends but I only "smooth and de-burr"......From To
Learned this trick from a shooter on a UK forum. Cut the inside end of the liner like you see in the pics while leaving the center clear for the latching rod.Top hat presses on those and holds your liner in place .