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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Share Your Simple Home Projects (TRICKS-N-TIPS) => Topic started by: Tinkerer on September 24, 2018, 07:43:39 PM
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I get sticker shock looking at the cost of air rifle spring compressors. I built one to work with my Hatsan 95QE and my RWS 34 (which will be receiving a Vortek PG2 kit this week). These rifles have 15-17" tubes with a diameter of just over 1.25". Materials to build the compressor cost me $17.
I had a 2x8 scrap handy. If you don't, this will be an additional $6 or so. The only things I had to buy were an 8" C-clamp (Husky), two bolts and matching washers and nuts. This did require some tools like a chop saw, hacksaw, drill, and bits, but there are many ways to cut wood besides a chop saw. I used Titebond II wood glue, which is extremely strong.
Here's how I did it:
1. Sawed off one end of the C-clamp with a hacksaw, then smoothed the cut end so it isn't sharp.
2. Cut a 26" piece of 2x8 for the base. Cut two 4" pieces of 2x8 for the end.
3. Drilled a 1 3/8" hole into a piece of the 2x8, then cut it in half to form the semicircular supports for the tube. I ended up breaking them in half, as you can see in the image.
4. Drilled holes though the C-clamp and the 2x8. Drilled out larger divots on the underside so the bolt ends wouldn't protrude. Fastened C-clamp to 2x8 with bolts, washers, and nuts. The C-clamp ended up being slightly off square so I had to adjust the placement of the other components to keep everything aligned. You can see it's slightly crooked in the images but this shouldn't affect performance.
5. Glued the two 4" pieces of 2x8 together, then drilled out a shallow hole 1.5" wide to secure the end of the tube.
6. Glued the 4" pieces and the semicircular pieces to the base.
7. Put two 3" wood screws up through the 4" pieces from the bottom to further reinforce it.
When I want to use it, I'll place a clean rag between the tube and the wood, then fasten the tube down using two webbing straps around the whole thing. I'll put it through its paces in a day or two.
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Different strokes for different folks. I prefer not to remove a barrel if not necessary - and it's frequently not. I don't like how cumbersome a 2 X 6 or a 2 X 8 can be, either. I think a 2 X 4 makes a satisfactory base, especially if you keep it long enough for the attached barrel. I suspect the wider lumber would verge on heavy.
If anyone has the interest I drilled a hole at the end of the C clamp slot, then cut the sides of the slot with an electric jig saw.
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I made one 15 years ago years that has been modified many times over for improvement or to accept different guns. The newest one I made is shown in the picture and is by far the easiest and fastest to use. Works on every springer I've got, barrel on or off.
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I like your idea of slotting it into a 2x4, I didn't think of that. The only reason I used a 2x8 is that I needed to accommodate the width of the C-clamp. If I slotted vertically the 8" C-clamp would make it pretty tall though-- I needed an 8" clamp for the length and spring travel of these two rifles.
Agree about not having to remove the barrel, I also didn't think of that. I can probably adapt my compressor to work that way.
I was a little hesitant to build a compressor that clamps to the scope rails, even though I like the compactness. I'm concerned that it wouldn't be strong enough to hold a powerful spring.
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That trick with the scope rings is pretty tidy, except that you have to take the scope off to do it.
I was able to do my CFX with a Pony pipe clamp I already owned and penny (I think it was) for a spacer. Fortunately, there isn't that much compressing to do in my CFX, even for a gas ram. For that matter, some hardy souls can do it bare handed, but that isn't nearly as safe.
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I always remove the scope whenever teardowns occur.. A scope stop indexes the scope on all my springers anyway and the best way to protect the scope is not have it near the work to be performed.
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Agreed, I left the scope on last time I worked on the RWS 34 and it was a bad idea (I used a pipe clamp as a spring compressor and it also wasn't great). I could see it being workable with certain setups for gentle work, but for my setup I think it's too risky.
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I like the simplicity of your setup Tinkerer.
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Just bought an compressor that claim can hold 1000lbs from homedepot. Have not received it yet. Hoping that will work.
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Thanks Artie.
Wolverine, are you sure 1,000 lbs is enough? ;D
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Thanks Artie.
Wolverine, are you sure 1,000 lbs is enough? ;D
No clue. But if 1000lbs is not enough, then I am in big trouble. Some folks do not even use a compressor, they just ask their brother to press on it with the whole body. I do not have such a tough brother. :D
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I made one 15 years ago years that has been modified many times over for improvement or to accept different guns. The newest one I made is shown in the picture and is by far the easiest and fastest to use. Works on every springer I've got, barrel on or off.
I like it. It's elegant in its simplicity, low cost, and takes up very little space. I am going to build one just like it.
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I think you'll be pleased with the cost and if you're not, very little time and money is invested in it. Chances are you will use it though, maybe even more likely to use it do to the ease of handling and setup, fairly portable too.
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I think you'll be pleased with the cost and if you're not, very little time and money is invested in it. Chances are you will use it though, maybe even more likely to use it do to the ease of handling and setup, fairly portable too.
I will pick up some PVC at work on Monday. We have mountains of schedule 80 in all sizes, which is even stronger.
I already have the steel strap so all I need to buy is some threaded rod an hardware.