Quote from: stija on December 05, 2013, 02:27:07 AMToo late. I glued it with titebond ii, or titebond blue as they seem to be color coded.Will upload a pic or two after it cures to show the joint. But so far I am happy and it seems to be holding up. I used mask tape to mask the area for cleanup and after reinforced with tight application of electric black tape.It's not too late to drill it and glue a dowel pin. I know that you don't want to drill into the bottom of the stock, but I GUARANTEE that is will make the joint MUCH stronger, and I would not even consider using the gun without doing it. If you take your time and are careful, you can do this without leaving too much of a scar on the gun. Believe me... it will be worth the effort.Snakebite
Too late. I glued it with titebond ii, or titebond blue as they seem to be color coded.Will upload a pic or two after it cures to show the joint. But so far I am happy and it seems to be holding up. I used mask tape to mask the area for cleanup and after reinforced with tight application of electric black tape.
This is what happens when you let go of the barrel without fully cocking the rifle. Just as the manual actually guarantees will happen.That being the case, where can i find an original replacement? Or what is the next best option? Does anyone have an original for sale having upgraded to something better? What other HW stocks will bolt right up and have a proper fit? What are my options basically? I also shot the best group just before it happened. I had just zeroed my rifle at the 32 yardage.
When i ask for advice i usually dont just follow it all blindly but rather make a decision on my own after having noted the advice. And i do thank you for the advice as it is the right and proper advice on how to do it best.Having said that, a pin of some sort whether a wooden dovel or brass rod would make stronger stock--NO DOUBT. I know that.I just used very little of $4 titebond ii to glue the wood because the bond is guaranteed stronger than the wood. Therefore it will take a wood failure (when i bought it it only had the same wood and no pins) AGAIN, which would be most likely a failure of my own AGAIN, which i want to correct actually. I paid attention on the cocking mechanism today as i shot a few groups and it almost gets lighter to hold it or pull it at one point, and at that point your muscles want to let go. And thats probably what i did. I don't know why it gets lighter, but it definitely feels easier to cock it towards the end,.I can ALWAYS add a pin, or a wood dovel. I may, who knows. Now i am in the testing stage.The following pictures are of the setup at the gluing stage, glued, and 2 groups today. The first group they flew high and to the left while i actually aimed at the center target. I had a lone flier to the right and that was my mistake. Then when i adjusted the scope, about 6 clicks down and to the right, I shot another group aiming at the lowest right target. The first two were still high and to the left. So i adjusted 6 more clicks to the R and 12 more clicks down. And then it looked pretty zeroed at 32yrds. Only two went to the right of the center, the paper tore because it was loose and not against another surface.Will shoot more tonight.