GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: phantomshtter on August 22, 2013, 10:02:02 PM
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There is a lot of info that new airgunners should learn right away even before beginning their adventure. These are a few of the most important things that will get you on the right track straight out the gate. Avoid those beginner mistakes! ;D
Clean ALL new gun barrels thoroughly before shooting!
There's tons of oils and junk left in the barrels from the machining process, don't braise that stuff into your brand new barrel. DO NOT however use brass bristle methods like bore snakes or cleaning rods, nothing metallic should ever enter your air gun's barrel, there's no need for it. Air gun barrels are made from softer steel and you may damage your barrel's rifling by doing so. In my experience dry patches are the best method for a light cleaning just to get accuracy back on track. A lighter cleaning may be the best to just remove excess buildup and not all of the leading. Airgun barrels often shoot the best for folks when they have somewhat of a coat of leading in them. Patches moistened, NOT SOAKED in Goo gone are in my opinion the safest and most effective method to thoroughly and completely clean your air gun barrel out. Just tie the patches to a strand of 15- 20lb test fishing line (I tie multiple patches on) and run them through the barrel from the breech end over and over replacing them with clean ones as necessary. Do so until you are getting clean, dry patches coming out.
With the multi patch method I remove the first wet patch after a couple good pass throughs, it's usually filthy by then. One ingenuous trick for getting line down the barrel involves a vacuum cleaner hose cupped with your hand around the muzzle end. ;) This is a great way to all together avoid having to remove muzzle brakes and such and is my personal favorite since I use the light fishing line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoBddYO_Nuc# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoBddYO_Nuc#)
Using strong solvents, anything petroleum based or other possible combustibles is typically ill advised, dieseling can occur in some guns and can inherently damage your gun's seals.
Once initially cleaned you shouldn't have to clean the barrel again until you see a noticeable change in accuracy. This will give you an idea of how often your barrel really needs cleaned. You do not get fouling in air gun barrels like powder guns, there is no propellent residue. However you'll eventually get lead buildup that can fill in the lands and groves of your rifling.
Know your barrels typical accuracy and when it needs cleaning attention. After a complete and thorough cleaning it may take a short time to see pellets grouping really well again, this is common.
Breaking in your new gun
This applies the most to spring guns but also to other power plants as well. You shouldn't really expect to see good groupings or accuracy until you have broken a gun in, often 500+ shots are required for a new gun to become worn in and begin getting consistent. Performance will increase, cocking efforts will decrease and everything should begin coming together after a proper amount of break in time is afforded. I think it wise to use cheap pellets and save a few bucks for the duration of the break in.
Granted if you are seeing incredible variances in foot per second speeds or drastic performance inadequacies there may be an issue with the gun. My best advice is to do your full break in within a few days of purchase. This will give you adequate time to assess your new guns performance, discover any issues swiftly and get them addressed well within your alloted warranty time frame.
Spring gun shooting
A quick touch on shooting accurately across all platforms is of course focusing on proper trigger and breathing control. That said, accurate spring gun shooting often requires a greater amount of care and discipline. THE ARTILLERY HOLD is the essential tool in a spring gun shooters arsenal, most spring guns demand it though some can be very forgiving or completely without hold sensitivity. Typically higher end springers are the most forgiving.
Spring guns are a different animal all together due to their unique forward and backward recoiling action. As the spring is released and travels forward you get backward recoil, as the piston slams forward you then get a forward recoil. This action more often than not requires the user to adapt a looser hold on the gun all together allowing it to complete it's cycle unrestrained. Utilizing a firm grip on most springers will almost indefinitely assure you a misplaced shot.
A little info and a video on the artillery hold from a pro--> https://www.pyramydair.com/article/The_artillery_hold_June_2009/63 (https://www.pyramydair.com/article/The_artillery_hold_June_2009/63)
Bipods and firmly seated rests are most likely going to negatively affect accurate springer operation as well. Try a non gripping rest by placing your hand atop a small shooting bag and the gun in that open hand, make the contact point 3-5 inches in front of the trigger guard. This may produce good results for rested shooting. A bit of practice and experimentation with your springer will get you the most effective hand placement, grip pressure and shouldering for your gun. You may find more information on the artillery hold and accurate spring gun shooting techniques within the library or by doing a forum search on the terms.
Scoping a springer can also require a bit more attention to detail as a strong recoiling springer can shake and break a flimsy or poorly mounted scope in no time flat. Many will benefit greatly from the sturdy one piece mounts that are widely available. Rigidity in a mount on a spring gun is a good thing! Also be sure to purchase a scope that is airgun rated!
proper pellet selection essentials
First thing to state here is that there is almost never a "the best pellet" to recommend. Reason being that nearly all airguns are different in their preferred diet, even the same brand, make and model can vary from owner to owner. What shoots amazing in Tim's Benjamin Discovery could be worthless in yours. That said, I have found it a wise idea to first check and see what others with your specific gun are shooting well, on occasion there can be a good baseline to start with in particular models. For example, nearly all Marauder pistol owners I have talked to find the H&N field target trophy pellets in 5.52 head size to be a great match to the gun. I highly recommend a pellet sampler pack nonetheless for new airgun owners looking to find the optimum pellet(s) in their gun, you may find multiple pellets in multiple weights that shoot great or even cheaper pellets as well that way.
These folks make some excellent sampler packs--> http://www.straightshooters.com/ (http://www.straightshooters.com/)
The choice you make in a pellet can make or break your shots. When choosing a pellet for your gun there are a few things to consider, pellet weight is a major factor in the accuracy and performance you achieve from a specific gun. For instance, choosing a 7 grain pellet for a .177 magnum springer is just a bad choice all together. You need to consider the power of your gun and mate it with a pellet weight that will optimize that power. A magnum springer is going to greatly benefit from a heavier pellet, you will get more accuracy and knock down power by capturing all that shot power into something like a 10-14 grain pellet. Your gun will also thank you because such a low weight pellet in a hard shooting spring gun is very tough on the spring. Same goes for a lower powered gun, a pellet choice of 12 grains in .177 in a 700 foot per second gun is probably a poor idea. You get the picture.
Shooting a light pellet over the sound barrier is just great for marketing and sales but bad for a shooter looking for accuracy. Staying just under the sound barrier is a desirable quality to the airgunner in the know. ;) Trust me.
Head sizes and pellet shapes are a major factor to pay attention to when testing for the optimum pellet in your gun. Barrels can vary and therefore you can find that a larger or smaller head size is required for achieving the most accuracy and power in a specific gun, if you are unknowingly using a loose fitting pellet in a barrel you may even see a pellet fall through the muzzle. In this case you're not even seating the pellet in the rifling and probably seeing terrible accuracy. On the other hand a pellet that may fit to snug can also cost you in fps.
Do some research and searching around and it will help narrow your quest. Remember though, there really is no definitive answer to the best pellet until you've shot it. 8) Hopefully this can shed some light and answer some of the ever present valid questions that new airgun shooters ponder. :D
JR
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Nice compilation of the experienced information available here on GTA by it's VERY knowledgable members.
If you have corrections or additions, it would be more productive and respectful to share them in a pm or email.
I commend a member that takes the time to condense a LOT of reading into a helpful thread. A lot of great airgunners have furnished this info right here on GTA.
SAFE & Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
8)
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Nice compilation of the experienced information available here on GTA by it's VERY knowledgable members.
If you have corrections or additions, it would be more productive and respectful to share them in a pm or email.
I commend a member that takes the time to condense a LOT of reading into a helpful thread. A lot of great airgunners have furnished this info right here on GTA.
SAFE & Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
8)
Thank you Dave, suggested additions or respectful corrections are more than welcome.
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Very good post.
It should be a sticky.
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Many thanks for the guide phantom. New to air guns in general and I went with a springer...so definitely helpful for someone like me. +1
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JR ~
Yes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Excellent guide sir. Big thumbs up.
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Nice. Thanks!
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Nice Job JR.
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Nice Job JR.
Thanks dave, I've gotten a lot of positive responses from it so far. I hope new shooters will find it or be directed to it.
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Yes Nice work JR!
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I like the vacuum trick. One of those "why didn't I think of that" moments!
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Great article with some really good ideas that I wouldn't have thought much about until now. Thanks for all the free tips! ;D
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I have seen this question come up a lot so I figured I would add my response to this thread as well
Shooting 101: Time for a trip back to the basics....
First: how you hold the gun, look up the Artillery hold, firm but not tight into the shoulder crease and loose open palm under the forearm...
Second: sight picture, are you using a scope or open sights? Scopes are actually harder to start out on than open sights, the magnified view magnifies the errors. Proper sight picture should be: Scope, the crosshairs directly over top of the desired target, Open sights: center the front post in the V of the rear, then put the target siting on top of the front sight.
Third: Breathing, when you are shooting your breathing moves you chest and shoulders around causing the muzzle of the gun to shift all over, to correct for this most shooters actually hold their breath while taking the shot. Breath normally get your sight picture you will notice as you breath that your sights will rise and fall with your breath, what you do is continue to breath in a normal fashion and rate but watching the sight. Now take control of your breathing and really pay attention to the forward sight you want to adjust the site so that when you take a full controlled breath the site moves the same amount above the target as it does below the target when you exhale, don't worry after a few thousand shots this well become second nature to you. Now when you are actually ready to shoot you will take a full breath then let it out until the sights are perfectly aligned and then hold your breath while squeezing the trigger, step four...
Fourth: Trigger control, a lot of people slap or jerk the trigger pulling the shot off to the side. Place your index finger on the trigger with the blade centered between the tip and the first knuckle, now slow squeeze, the gun firing should be a slight surprise but try not to jump.
Fifth: Follow through, this is very important with a spring gun since the jump a lot and the pellet traverses the barrel relatively slow, compared to Powder Burners. Maintain your sight picture, continue to hold your breath and apply the same trigger pressure until the pellet has hit the target.
Now breath normally, hopefully you haven't passed out from lack of Oxygen to your brain...
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Hi Everyone: Thanks as always for all the additional tips for shooters -- great summaries! One question I had to throw out there is about using fishing line to pull patches through the barrel as J.R. had mentioned and the video demonstrates. I watched all the "Air Gun Academy" video episodes and one of the three episodes related to cleaning your air rifle specifically says **NOT** to use monofilament fishing line to pull patches through the barrel "because it can easily cut into the rifled steel". How is this possible? ??? I suppose you could be really careful to make sure the line did not touch the bore, but I don't know if I'd want to take the chance. I'd think the fishing line method would otherwise be a good method for many circumstances. Any comments from you with far more experience than I?
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I personally would use a braided nylon cord, like shot cord and then use a shop vac to pull it up through the muzzle....
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If you use weedeater line, and pull it "straight" out, you won't have problems.
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Great guide for a newbie like me.
- Ken
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probably save me days of frustration
Thanks
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Great stuff!!
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I recently picked up a patchworm kit - I think it's a little easier than the weedeater line I was using. Plus, the properly sized plug for it seemed to get a little more gunk out after my weedeater patches were showing clean.
I did have to remove the shroud from my syn-rod to get the (curled) line though the muzzle and stuff.
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Thanks for the info. As a beginner I didn't know ANY of those tips.
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A short piece of a plastic drinking straw inserted through the shroud and into the barrel prevents the weedeater line from getting curled between the shroud and barrel.
Richard
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjfIs7mUemI&list=TLz6wKeDn_tqefAJv8wyEVxKreXfLUdO9P# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjfIs7mUemI&list=TLz6wKeDn_tqefAJv8wyEVxKreXfLUdO9P#)
Great vid on how to make a nice pull through. I havent tried it yet myself. If you look at this guys vids, he has several DIY airgun projects that are pretty simple and thorough instructions, and some outstanding airgun hunting videos. Ive made a couple of the pellet holders out of a piece of rubber boot and some para cord.
One thing im going to try that my dad showed me as a kid when we made pull throughs with some dacron line for our rimfires was to clean out a short length of lead solder and thread it onto the end of the cord, then it could be crimped and a knot tied in the line making a skinny, but effective weight. Be careful with solder, you will probably have to use acid core, and it is caustic. You should have proper safety equipment. Hope this is helpful.
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good info!
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Can i use my Rifle Cleaning Rod with a patch holder?
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Can i use my Rifle Cleaning Rod with a patch holder?
Not unless you are using carbon fiber rods.
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Can i use my Rifle Cleaning Rod with a patch holder?
Not unless you are using carbon fiber rods.
Odd, the Daisy Cleaning Kit is metal.
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Can i use my Rifle Cleaning Rod with a patch holder?
Not unless you are using carbon fiber rods.
Odd, the Daisy Cleaning Kit is metal.
Yes and all most all gun companies advertise speeds with PBA ammo which destroys springs and seals...
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I recently bought my first air gun, a Stoeger X20S. Note that I am 6"8" tall, with long arms. I was really disappointed with the accuracy. I thought it was the "cheap" scope that came with the gun. I was putting vertical lines of holes in the target; the lines were about one foot long, at 20 yards. The left/right accuracy was really good. I bought a CDT trigger, that helped, but the up/down problem was still there. I then bought a UTG stock butt pad which gave a 1 inch extension. The pad needed a little trimming on the bottom to fit onto the stock on the rifle, but I attached it with 2.5 inch screws which go into the existing stock holes and hold it solid. What a difference. I am now getting quarter size groups at 20 yards with the arm chair hold.
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This is a great article . There is a lot of information here . I am however , overwhelmed as to finding the right pellet . I understand about the size allowing it too fit either too loose or too tight but when determining what GRAIN of pellet too shoot , I'm lost .
Gonzo
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Nice. Thanks for posting this.
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Nice. Thank you.
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Greetings All,
I clean my 22 cal springer with felt pads and a 1/8" x 3' wooden dowel, works wonderful. 1/8" dowel at any hardware is 2 bucks or less. The dowel would also work with a patch. Just sayin...
Cheers,
Bill R
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Thanks,
I wish I had seen this 6 months ago.
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Thanks for all the tips
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Mark as read and appreciated.
Blessings
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I've only had my springer for a week but I was getting frustrated with my inconsistent results. Thanks for this post, I've been doing a few things wrong which explains why I haven't been getting good results. Greatly appreciated, great info for everybody!
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I have about 600 rounds before scoping my HW95 in .22 cal. Mounted my new scope & took it to the range. Frustrated & about ready to leave, sell my new gun, throw it in the bay etc...I racked up a new target. This time I brought my stock alongside my cheek, NO WELD, & shot a rested 1.5 inch group at 20 yards. This was easy to do. May not sound like much, but I had the groups of a hand grenade. The gun seemed fairly forgiving in regards to shoulder pressure & forward hand. I started to smile. I was tired, but stood up & shot about the same group at 50 feet offhand. Then my scope mount moved. I found out I have a accurate gun, looking forward to the next time. No cheek weld, or at least no leaning my cheek, works well on my gun.
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Sean. I'll bet that at the 6,000 pellet mark,,,you may look back at this post, and grin. ;)
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thanks for the new tips for new people!
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So............ No solvents? Just dry patching? Thanks.
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So............ No solvents? Just dry patching? Thanks.
No Gun Solvents, Goo Gone is a good cleaner to use, wet a patch pull it then dry patch after that...
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Thanks. I use that stuff on labels and such and its amazing how it will remove what Alcohol and even MEK will have a hard time with. Never imagined on a patch.
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Thank you for that informative post, great start for the new air gunners. Keep up the good work.
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Very helpful I have been holding my springer all wrong :-[
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Great Read!!!!
Thanks :D
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Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
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Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
It sounds more daunting than it really is. Just takes some practice, and regular use to keep up the proper method.
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Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
I think that you will find that air guns are not as hold sensitive and pellet picky as some of the perfectionist shooters on this forum. Don't look for 5 shots into one hole at 50 yards from the start. Some definitions of good shot groupings are apparently based on olympic class skills; doable only after years of practice.
Don't prejudge the Titan, and just have fun with it.
.
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Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
Jere,
Take a look at the SC state gate we have shoots over here all the time when it is warm....
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I've been practicing / breaking in my AA TX200/22 (with Hawke AO EV 40 4-12X).
500 or so pellets now, mostly shooting 17 yd seated. So far getting the best accuracy with JSB Diabolo Match 18.1gr with the stock rested on the back of a second chair padded with a towel. From reading prior GTA posts and experimenting, best with light grip and thumb up, with the butt lightly pressed and very light cheek weld.
My problem is heartbeat! Once I'm relaxed and breathing slowly, I center the reticle and use up the trigger's first stage before holding my breath. As I concentrate on "aim small miss small",and pull off the shot, there is always a lateral jiggle from my pulse.
The strong systole may be from my cycling training (avid /fit mountain biker).
Any suggestions on reducing sight pulse?
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Don't reduce it. Work with it. Learn the split second when the sight is still, then is trigger time. Bi-athletes have to shoot at 50 yards after skiing. There is no time to settle down, they work with breathing and heart beat to get a consistent trigger.
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this seems like an appropriate place to ask.
what do I use to lubricate the moving parts (cocking lever and trigger) of my pcp and how can I clean these parts without disassembling the rifle? also how often should these parts be lubed and how often should you do a complete disassembly and cleaning
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Thanks Ken I will try. Actually I do try to time the trigger release at the same point in the pulse-swing. However the shot is usually a surprise along the squeeze (good, right?), so still have to work on coordinating with the rhythm. I find that the lighter the hold the less the pulse, but it's still the biggest wiggle source.
Another noob question: I print targets off the web using normal paper, and hang them in front of a home-made pellet trap. However the pellets often don't cut round holes, in fact sometimes they are slots or checkmark shaped. This can make the groups look bigger as well as messing up the aim point. The pellet trap is filled with duct seal, and the embedded shots show that the pellets aren't flying sideways. So the paper must be tearing rather than punching.
I don't want to use wadcutters. Is there any special "target paper" that punches cleanly?
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ive found that with a cheap clipboard (which provides a backing for the paper) that regular printer paper works fine. the "shoot and see" targets are nice but expensive. card board works good. not like boxes but like playing cards. the divider between cheap 30 packs of beer work well. and once trimmed should be printer friendly. one sheet at a time
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Kim, a lot of folks here use card stock. You can get it anywhere that sells printer paper. It is a little heavier and resists tearing, unlike standard weight paper.
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Ken thanks - I will try card stock
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Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
I think that you will find that air guns are not as hold sensitive and pellet picky as some of the perfectionist shooters on this forum. Don't look for 5 shots into one hole at 50 yards from the start. Some definitions of good shot groupings are apparently based on olympic class skills; doable only after years of practice.
Don't prejudge the Titan, and just have fun with it.
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I know I need more practice, but I'd love to see what someone else who has been shooting springers for a while can do with my HW90. So if you have time lets get together for a shoot. Like I said in that PM a while back I don't have any real good ideas of shooting areas besides my yard, but I'm open to suggestions!
All in all I am having quite a good time learning how to shoot this bruiser! It's quite a bit louder than my HW30 though so shooting in the backyard makes me a little nervous that someone may.......take issue with it. Not too loud I guess. But it seems somewhat noticeable to my ear. But I'm right on top of the thing so that is probably misleading.
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Thanks Ken I will try. Actually I do try to time the trigger release at the same point in the pulse-swing. However the shot is usually a surprise along the squeeze (good, right?), so still have to work on coordinating with the rhythm. I find that the lighter the hold the less the pulse, but it's still the biggest wiggle source.
Another noob question: I print targets off the web using normal paper, and hang them in front of a home-made pellet trap. However the pellets often don't cut round holes, in fact sometimes they are slots or checkmark shaped. This can make the groups look bigger as well as messing up the aim point. The pellet trap is filled with duct seal, and the embedded shots show that the pellets aren't flying sideways. So the paper must be tearing rather than punching.
I don't want to use wadcutters. Is there any special "target paper" that punches cleanly?
Do a Google for DYI Shot and see targets videos.
Basically,
Get some poster paper at WM or Dolla Store on the cheap, Lime green or orange
Layer shipping tape over it. No need to overlap, just close as you can.
Paint it with Cheap-o flat or matte black.
Stick a target hole patch for a bulls eye or lay a quarter or something in the center when you paint it to leave a dot.
Edit = I forgot to add you can paint over them a couple times before tossing.
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I know I need more practice, but I'd love to see what someone else who has been shooting springers for a while can do with my HW90. So if you have time lets get together for a shoot. Like I said in that PM a while back I don't have any real good ideas of shooting areas besides my yard, but I'm open to suggestions!
All in all I am having quite a good time learning how to shoot this bruiser! It's quite a bit louder than my HW30 though so shooting in the backyard makes me a little nervous that someone may.......take issue with it. Not too loud I guess. But it seems somewhat noticeable to my ear. But I'm right on top of the thing so that is probably misleading.
More practice? Me too! Backyard noise also makes my neighbours nervous, so I am limited to my lower powered plinking in the basement until I find a good local area.
I thought that I had found a good spot last fall, but after a couple visits, found it gated and locked the last time I went. I guess my noisy guns attracted too much attention ;-(
I am finding it tough to locate a closeby plinking spot in our area. I plan to investigate some of the logging areas when the weather and woods dry up a bit.
.
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New to the sport. Thanks for the guide.
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Welcome Ruth. Glad you are here. Good Luck, and if you have questions,,, feel free to post ;D
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Great details. Thanks for compiling it so clearly.
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Awesome information, I think I def. Need to try some different pellets in my titan.
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SIR,
thank you for this post I feel a little better now...I shot my first air rifle in years and years and my shooting was pretty dismal. I can't fault the tool, only the skill of the mechanic...so basically I need practice. It is a Storm XT
Lots of good info here. Thanks. I just watched the video on the artillery hold, however, and I'm thinking that these kinds of guns are way too picky for me. Very pellet sensitive, very hold sensitive, etc. I'll probably ask for some help in another thread on tuning my new Titan, but my optimism that I'll ever get it shooting like I want is waning. You have to start somewhere, I guess, so at least I've headed down the road.
I think that you will find that air guns are not as hold sensitive and pellet picky as some of the perfectionist shooters on this forum. Don't look for 5 shots into one hole at 50 yards from the start. Some definitions of good shot groupings are apparently based on olympic class skills; doable only after years of practice.
Don't prejudge the Titan, and just have fun with it.
.
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Hi, you ca glue printerpaper targets onto ceral boxes or whatever you have laying around. Use rubber cent no wrinkling. I made these for a friend many years ago when printers and computers cost a lot more and I had both. Unfortunately I never joined him for the fun.... just a thought
Thanks Ken I will try. Actually I do try to time the trigger release at the same point in the pulse-swing. However the shot is usually a surprise along the squeeze (good, right?), so still have to work on coordinating with the rhythm. I find that the lighter the hold the less the pulse, but it's still the biggest wiggle source.
Another noob question: I print targets off the web using normal paper, and hang them in front of a home-made pellet trap. However the pellets often don't cut round holes, in fact sometimes they are slots or checkmark shaped. This can make the groups look bigger as well as messing up the aim point. The pellet trap is filled with duct seal, and the embedded shots show that the pellets aren't flying sideways. So the paper must be tearing rather than punching.
I don't want to use wadcutters. Is there any special "target paper" that punches cleanly?
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Same goes for a lower powered gun, a pellet choice of 12 grains in .177 in a 700 foot per second gun is probably a poor idea. You get the picture.
What should be the pellet weight for 700 - 800 fps powered .177 AR? Seems like lower than 8 grains goes supersonic ::). It comes back with same speed after hitting the target :-\
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This is great thanks for the tips. Saved me lots of frustration
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When calculating wire length for big electric (500 -1000 amp servoces) we use a similar system. We have a roll of a few thousand feet with a number every foot. You put a fluff ball on the end of the meter string then unfurl a few feey push into a pipe/emt and turn on the shop vacuum. You place the roll on an axle so it can turn freely, then cover most of the input side and seal the vacuum side and turn it on, then when it hits turn off the vac and look at the numbers add x for each 90 and x for each 90 /45 turn.
But we like to be able to continuously pull wire in certain pipes, especially comm pipe, so we use a double line that we tie off while we use the 1st line to pull a steel snake through. But here (and I have done this in rooms that were piped and I needed to pull mulitple times, you tie one end to the other, and make self closing loops, nooses, you turn vac on once, you make the string 2.5 times longer you tie one end to the other and pull through this allows you to have a continuios bunch of tied on stuff. When your done remove the line and it is ready for the next use. I hate the sound of cheap shop vacuums they kill the head/hearing. You can change the pads as they come out by opening a loop/noose.
This may seem needlessly complicated to some, but I used to do this quite a lot, for some clients as we constantly modified things for them.
My favorite part of this piece was the use of old T shirts. My wife is going to cheer. , hey they are comfortable holey or not! But I would never do a video....my cell phone is (gulp) over 15 years old......with the original battery...... hey I am not an abuser!!!!
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As a very new AG guy I found this to be very helpful. Thanks to all for taking time to make it happen!
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Hi..i have a fx indy bullpup 25 cal...
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These guns are very easy to shhot...
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But i had to shoot some thousands pellets to be really good...
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It is importand to see what is the best pellet for your gun...
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And of course practise...
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I am Spyros from Greece...! Nice to meet you..!!
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This is my first post here, so if it's not the correct forum, I apologize- I am full of questions about my new hobby.
I bought a used Ruger springer to get my feet wet- Basically I wanted to see if I would use it it for practice or just let it mold in the gun safe.
Using all the information posted above, i.e., correct hold, break-in, cleaning, etc, what is a reasonable expectation of accuracy at 50 feet- It has a 4X scope on it. MY primary use for this gun is to practice offhand shooting to improve trigger squeeze, hold, follow through, etc.
Thanks.
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Great information here! Thanks for putting this up! This will help a lot of new airgunners and those with some experience fine tune their guns and their skills!
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Wow thanks for this info.
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Good post by the OP. The artillery hold video should prove helpful for accuracy since I thought a tight hold equals greater accuracy.. not for a springer apparently.
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Awesome guide, thank you very much!
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Hello GTA Moderators, Administrators and other New Members!
What an awesome, informative and valuable introduction to the Airgun Sport! Thank you so much! ;)
And, a very welcome "refresher" for those of us just getting back into airguns, after a very long time...I truly loved shooting my airguns as a kid and that joy was rekindled with my very first shots! A Hatsan Mod 95 and a Beeman QB78 later, I'm already contemplating a move to "The Dark Side"! Yikes! :o
What an incredible forum...And what great, wise and experienced members everywhere, so willing to help us "newbies" by unselfishly sharing their knowledge of airguns and airgunning!
I look forward to the GTA forum every day...thank you for making me feel very welcome!
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Excellent thread!
I have a couple of comments and a question.
Regarding cleaning the barrel, I've seen several times that one shouldn't use petroleum distillates but this thread recommends the use of Goo Gone. Goo Gone, according to the back label, contains petroleum distillates. Am I missing something?
On the other hand, if it works then it works. Making sure the barrel is cleaned out with plenty of dry patches should get almost all of it.
Regarding the use of monofilament, yes it will put grooves in chrome at least. My chrome plated steel fishing rod guides ended up with grooves in them after a few years so I changed to the ceramic guides.
For cleaning barrels I use Glide dental floss. As far as I can tell it's unwaxed and I've heard it has a PTFE (Teflon) coating. Seems like a winner for this purpose.
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I've seen several times that one shouldn't use petroleum distillates but this thread recommends the use of Goo Gone. Goo Gone, according to the back label, contains petroleum distillates. Am I missing something?
On the other hand, if it works then it works. Making sure the barrel is cleaned out with plenty of dry patches should get almost all of it.
All relative ... Like diesel and hi test gasoline. Petroleum distillates both, but very different detonation characteristics. Don't put diesel in your Ferrari, and don't put gasoline in your D9 Cat. Goo Gone works as a barrel cleaner, but not all other distillate cleaners have been proven. I'm not about to test other distillates in my guns when I know Goo Gone works.
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Regarding the use of monofilament, yes it will put grooves in chrome at least. My chrome plated steel fishing rod guides ended up with grooves in them after a few years so I changed to the ceramic guides.
Monofilament should not put grooves in chrome steel. However, fishing line picks up fine grit from the waters, and the grit embedded in the soft nylon will abrade the guides when the line is moved quickly through the rod.
I don't pull the monofilament through the barrels as fast as through my fishing rods. And never as many times in rapid succession.
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For cleaning barrels I use Glide dental floss. As far as I can tell it's unwaxed and I've heard it has a PTFE (Teflon) coating. Seems like a winner for this purpose.
Good option. Glide dental floss is actually pure PTFE (poly tetra fluoro ethylene, "Teflon"), not just coated. Unwaxed nylon dental floss will also work, and might be easier to grab hold of. I wrap the pull end around a short dowel to help get a purchase on it.
Both teflon and nylon are resistant to Goo Gone, but both can get a bit slippery with just a drop of light oil lubricant (like wax or Goo Gone).
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Monofilament should not put grooves in chrome steel.
And yet it's well known that it does put grooves in chrome plated steel guides. After hearing of the problem on multiple fishing shows years ago I replaced the rod with the badly grooved steel guides with a rod with ceramic guides.
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Monofilament should not put grooves in chrome steel.
And yet it's well known that it does put grooves in chrome plated steel guides. After hearing of the problem on multiple fishing shows years ago I replaced the rod with the badly grooved steel guides with a rod with ceramic guides.
It is actually the grit embedded in the nylon that does the abrading. Grit comes from fine silt suspended in the water
But, in any case, it takes years of use to gouge the guides, and ceramic guides will better resist the abrasion. I don't clean my barrels that frequently, nor as aggressively. Some people also use brass brushes on their barrels, although not recommended by most.
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You guys might want to start a new thread about using fishing line so this one doesn't get cluttered up.
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You guys might want to start a new thread about using fishing line so this one doesn't get cluttered up.
Nope! 'Nuf said.
BTW, no takers on that cat yet? I wonder why. Your avatar just cracks me up.
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After seeing so many people using brushes and solvents on Youtube, this was truly amazing. Great info!
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Thanks, very good info.but not the article I saw before. A lot of very useful information in this article.
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thats so cool
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i never seen this before
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gracious it is showing. my computer was acting up
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i am faily new to the forum
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for the most part, i never clean my barrel
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unless i see some inconsistency with my groupings.
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if its not broken dont fix it.
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Great tutorial on cleaning the barrel!!! just did this with simple string and some patches... works like a charm! THANK YOU OP!
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New shooter, new gun, new tips! Thanks for the advice.
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Great OP, Great tips, Great dialog, Great group.
I learned a lot.
Cheers to you all!!
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Breakin in a new pellet slinger is enuff to make me keep my old ones around.
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This is why I joined this site learning every day great post for beginners thanks
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Really found this posting very informative. As a new airgunner I mainly shoot PCPs but want to learn more about springers and how to shoot them accurately . There was good precise info on everything form picking the right pellet weight to how to properly hold the rifle.
Still trying to figure out how to navigate this forum first time on something like this but I'm finding it to be very helpful,looking forward to finding more informative post.
Reid
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I use a green weed wacker line, so there is no need for a noisy vacuum cleaner.
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Thank You ! This is very helpful.
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I've read (alright, I did "skim" some) all 6 pages, some great info included, many thanks!
But still some questions:
Just received my first AG last night, 15 minutes AFTER I left for the club to shoot!
To check to ensure it's as accurate as I'd like, should I clean the bore first (sounds like a "Duh" question, but can I still return if I've cleaned it?)
I would like to try the weed-eater string method for cleaning the bore, but can someone shed some light on how to attach the patch? Just melt a blob on one end and sand that down to fit the bore, then slide the patch over the other end? Any idea's will be appreciated.
Then on to finding the right pellet: I'll search for another thread on that, as well as one on non-lead pellets.
Thanks from a newbie, and keep the tips coming!
Terry
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Has anybody had experience with improving the accuracy of BB guns?
I've read somewhere on the Internet that if the BB fits tighter inside the barrel the accuracy would improve.
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Thank you for the guide. Just starting out, I'm needing all the help I can get.
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So many things I read said you should just fire pellets out of the new gun to "clean" it.
400 pellets later I had thick black gritty goop in the barrel. It took 40 patches to get it out.
The plastic baffle end I ended up swirling in a cup of hot water and dawn.
I used weed eater line and the trick with it is, you carefully make a slit in the line lengthwise with a sharp utility knife.
I did mine couple inches from the end so there was no way it could rip out the end.
You jam a corner of your patch into the slit with a tiny screw driver then pull it halfway through or enough through it won't come out.
The slit in the weed eater line pinches tight and I didn't have even small patches come near coming out of it.
I got some neat twisted weed eater line that turns as I pull it through.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ecm2HuG.jpg)
Use a straw in the business end if you have a baffle to get the line past it.
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Awesome info. I'm new and already learning valuable information. Thanks.
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Excellent idea of using the vacuum!
For new members just make sure your suppressor is really tied so you do not swallow it with the vacuum... ??? :'( ;)
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I went through a few springers and couldn't ever group. I started thinking they were all junk. Then I learned that you have to hold them just right and they shoot straight. I tried and tried to master the "hold" for springers. Finally I went over to the dark side to PCP's and everything got real easy...
They cost more money and you have to have more support equipment but for ME?
That was the answer.
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Thanks for the info!
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Many thanks for the guide phantom. New to air guns in general and I went with a springer...so definitely helpful for someone like me. +1
Agreed!!
Please make it a sticky
New to air guns, and an avid reader, I've found this info in a piecemeal fashion.
It's excellent to find it in one place.
It is then codified
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Lots of great info!! Thanks for posting this all in one place.
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Thanks for all the great information. Has been a great help getting started shooting springers!
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Another newbie what about using the felt pellets that are available for cleaning?
I don't know what Im doing but I'm using 3 at a time in my FWB 124
Dennis
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Cleaning pellets in a springer need to be loaded with a lead pellet to prevent damage in springers. It's like dry firing them. Can and eventually will damage piston seal, could also crack piston and tube, spring, etc.
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Cleaning pellets in a springer need to be loaded with a lead pellet to prevent damage in springers. It's like dry firing them. Can and eventually will damage piston seal, could also crack piston and tube, spring, etc.
I fired one and only one cleaning pellet once in a springer and never did that again. In fact I’ve never opened the bag again. If I would use one I’d push it with a rod, if shot- only in my Co2 gun. That one and only dry fire with the cleaning pellet I did made me sick to my stomach. I knew what happened the second I pulled the trigger. I wouldn’t see the point in loading one in front of a lead pellet, or how much good it could possibly do.
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And just a friendly reminder never shoot a cleaning pellet through an LDC, ask me how I know. ;)
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Great information, glad to see I stumbled down the right road to this rabbit hole.
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What is even mo betta cool is that a lot of this advice also applies to my other addiction...crossbow shooting. If I'm not surfing I am either shooting my airguns or crossbow. Not to brag or anything, but I haven't shot my eye out yet! ;)
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Many years ago in the mid 80's when I bought my first springer I also bought a cleaning kit from Beeman. The instructions said to load three (3) cleaning pellets into the breech and fire the gun. I cleaned that gun, a Diana model 26, that way at least a half dozen times. Apparently over the years things have changed. I still have that gun and it shoots just fine. I do intend to break it down in the near future to have a look at the internals. I have never done so but now after reading warnings such as this over the years I am curious as to what I might find.
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A wealth of information in your post, for a novice like myself
I am hoping that another of your readers will know how to find the twist rate of the barrel of my Diana 350 Mag premium in .177 cal
Kind regard,
Al
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A wealth of information in your post, for a novice like myself
I am hoping that another of your readers will know how to find the twist rate of the barrel of my Diana 350 Mag premium in .177 cal
Kind regard,
Al
I wonder if HectorMedina might know, shoot him a PM if he doesn’t reply to this thread.
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Thanks to the many posters, tremendous resource for the novice. I'm reading through carefully!
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I hadn't read it (even though it is a sticky). THANKS
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Great info!
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I have seen this question come up a lot so I figured I would add my response to this thread as well
Shooting 101: Time for a trip back to the basics....
First: how you hold the gun, look up the Artillery hold, firm but not tight into the shoulder crease and loose open palm under the forearm...
Second: sight picture, are you using a scope or open sights? Scopes are actually harder to start out on than open sights, the magnified view magnifies the errors. Proper sight picture should be: Scope, the crosshairs directly over top of the desired target, Open sights: center the front post in the V of the rear, then put the target siting on top of the front sight.
Third: Breathing, when you are shooting your breathing moves you chest and shoulders around causing the muzzle of the gun to shift all over, to correct for this most shooters actually hold their breath while taking the shot. Breath normally get your sight picture you will notice as you breath that your sights will rise and fall with your breath, what you do is continue to breath in a normal fashion and rate but watching the sight. Now take control of your breathing and really pay attention to the forward sight you want to adjust the site so that when you take a full controlled breath the site moves the same amount above the target as it does below the target when you exhale, don't worry after a few thousand shots this well become second nature to you. Now when you are actually ready to shoot you will take a full breath then let it out until the sights are perfectly aligned and then hold your breath while squeezing the trigger, step four...
Fourth: Trigger control, a lot of people slap or jerk the trigger pulling the shot off to the side. Place your index finger on the trigger with the blade centered between the tip and the first knuckle, now slow squeeze, the gun firing should be a slight surprise but try not to jump.
Fifth: Follow through, this is very important with a spring gun since the jump a lot and the pellet traverses the barrel relatively slow, compared to Powder Burners. Maintain your sight picture, continue to hold your breath and apply the same trigger pressure until the pellet has hit the target.
Now breath normally, hopefully you haven't passed out from lack of Oxygen to your brain...
I'm seriously considering an Air Arms TX200 and this post and this follow-up reply really help me as I am a beginner. It's pretty overwhelming at this stage. I'm wondering if I should start with something simpler?
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don't know if i am in right place or not kind of hard to find right place. I wanted to know about storing my pcp rifle. how much air can i leave in my gun when i am done shooting? and for lone time storing with or with out air. And how much air to leave.
Thanks
Jim
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sorry if this wrong place to post this, new to GTA and don't know how to use this forum. my question is how much air should i leave in my gun when i am done shooting? and when i store for lone time.
Thanks
Jim
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sorry if this wrong place to post this, new to GTA and don't know how to use this forum. my question is how much air should i leave in my gun when i am done shooting? and when i store for lone time.
Thanks
Jim
Storing your rifle with air should be fine. As long as the air is in the tank and not in the gun. I would suggest half the tanks air pressure for long storage and be sure the gun is empty and uncocked.
Don’t want the gun itself under pressure for storage.
If your air tank leaks any air during storage, check seals.
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As an Air Rifle Beginner, i'm glad i found this thread - thx to the OP!
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Happy you found it , but if any specific question arrives please elaborate and post it in the best forum thread you can find, if you miss by an inch the mods will get you on target ;)
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Instead of goo gone can you use balistol to clean the bore of a springier
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Instead of goo gone can you use balistol to clean the bore of a springier
That’s what I use, Ted. Ballistol and JB Bore Paste.
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Instead of goo gone can you use balistol to clean the bore of a springier
I wouldn't, Balistol is a petro based clean/lubricant and can diesel in the barrel.
JB Bore Paste is more for lapping the barrel and I wouldn't use it on a regular basis either as it may remove some of the rifling.
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Bit late getting in on the thread, but wanted to acknowledge the good information provided.
Very good read.
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Thank you for this article, I learned some very important new things about airguns which will help me down the road.
Have a great day,
ThomasT
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Excellent to know. It's like you condensed years of experience into a few paragraphs!
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A great thread started in 2013! I probably read it in 2015 when I got my 1st airgun, and maybe it wasn't a sticky back then, so it was just one (very good) source of information...
I've recently rekindled my interests in airguns and like most, the "first order of business" is accuracy. No point in shooting a gun that can't hit what you're aiming at, right?
So to get to the point, which is cleaning, which really is also accuracy, you have new, and you have used. For new, yeah, that's here, pretty much 100%. Used OTOH, maybe it's off topic (to be fair, though the OP mentioned it as accuracy fall-off).
My tidbit to add, though not particularly Earth shattering, is pulling monofilament, plus possibly patch through moderator, that it or embedded particulate on it could damage the rifling, can be moderated by inserting a short segment of drinking straw in the muzzle to pull past. Not that I knew or remembered this, but after reading this thread, I recalled seeing some straws with my gun cleaning supplies. The light bulb came on why they are there
Tidbit #2, kinda off-topic, is trying different pellets and the suggestion of a sampler. Well, this hits home for me bc I have a few with no "assigned" favorite pellet. So, the tidbit is you can't necessarily pick 10 new pellets out, fire them and say yeah or nay. It may take 3 to 5 to "settle in", and some say many more than that.
Relevancy is that cleaning between attempts with different pellets while looking for your new (or used) guns favorite may speed up the settling in process.
I'm going through this now and believe it only took one round for me to work past that settling in. Maybe not though, and rounds that didn't group actually needed the barrel cleaning, or just more rounds fired? I think that's an interesting question . Reckon I'd just have to do more shooting to know (or have more experience?).
I've found one pellet that goups in my newly acquired well-used gun. After that I was thinking about cleaning the barrel. This thread makes me wonder if cleaning before I started trying different pellets was called for...
Great original posting, very good thread with lots of contributing information. Glad it's a sticky!
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Cleaning between different pellets is a good idea, but usually takes 10 seasoning shots or more, I find just shooting 10 of the next pellet to test, then running the test works about the same in most cases.