GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => UK Airgun Gate => Topic started by: MileHighJSC on August 26, 2018, 01:28:27 PM
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Just got my brand new pro sport and before firing I looked in the barrel and it appears to be all Rusty do you guys think I should send it back? I posted some pictures of the stock lowered down in the thread. I’m not too computer savvy so I haven’t learned how to post pictures very well it keeps telling me that they’re too big so this is the only way I figured out how to do it .
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You certainly COULD send it back, but before you do try cleaning the barrel. Air Arms uses some kind of nasty brown oil on their guns.
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I posted up a better photo
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Yeah, I would definitely send that back... UNLESS the walnut is spectacular, in which case I may try to remove the rust. The breech taper also looks like it was cut a bit rough :-\
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I would clean it and shoot it first. Every rifle comes with a rusty barrel, air or powder. Clean the barrel and see it is a shooter. If you want to play it safe email the picture to the seller and say I can either send it back or work with it and see if it shoots and the picture is for the record if you decide to return as one it is cleaned and shot there won't be any evidence. If they say return it return it, unless it has an awesome stock, if they say try it first then do so.
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I wouldn’t stress about a bit of rust. A shot of Ballistol and a few swabs down the barrel should clean that up nicely. If it is accurate just shoot and enjoy.
R
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I wouldn’t stress about a bit of rust. A shot of Ballistol and a few swabs down the barrel should clean that up nicely. If it is accurate just shoot and enjoy.
R
Amen
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Here’s a picture of the butt stock pretty nice walnut
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Stock
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Stock
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Stock
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The stock is beautiful, I'd try using it myself if you can't get a decent shot group with it I'd look into getting them to repair it.
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The breech looks terrible, but that stock looks magnificent!
I'd definitely pull some patches through and see how well the barrel cleans up, and see how well it shoots. It looks like there might be burrs in the breech that should be cleaned up, too.
If you send it back for warranty, you might request to keep that stock so you don't get a lesser example if they exchange the whole gun.
Good luck!
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Most definitely check if she shoots and shoots good. My PS .177 loves the AA 8.44 CPL 7.9 in the box
PS .22 loves GTO and FTT 5.53 and Crosman Domes in the tin.
I redid both my stocks with BLO one I took down to raw wood and did 40 coats and two coats of paste wax. The second I tried something different which turned out real nice. I cleaned the stock with Mineral Spirts until white rag got no oil residue or color. Then I lightly scuffed with 600grit sand paper. Set out in the 100 degree Tx heat for 4-5 hours. Added BLO let oil set 15-20 min outside in the heat. Wiped off left in the heat all day. Repeated for 10 coats, let oil dry two days outside in the heat. Then added two very light and thin coats of Minwax Antique Finish like a French polish to achieve a satin finish. Turned out very nice and much less work than a true BLO finish.
Take care Brother Man
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You would be a fool to send a rifle back with a stock like that for a non issue. Use Royal London Oil (RLO) for www.airrifleheadquarters.com (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com) to redo your stock. Do this right away. Like stop shooting the rifle and do this now. Very easy to use and will give you a superb buetiful finish and you can mess up.
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Talked with pyramyd air this morning they are sending the serial number Along with the picture to air arms to let them know.
Also pyramyd air is sending me some ballisol and some bore wipes to try to clean up the bore. Good people to work with over There at pyramid air. They have always made things right with me when I have had a problem. I will let you guys know how it cleans up and then how it shoots. I’m keeping my fingers crossed.
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Good luck, Ryon. You won the lottery with that stock. Wow! As the others have mentioned, see if you can work out the other thing. Let us know how it goes. My PS does well with FTT 8.64s, but also the Kodiak Match and even the Crosman heavy 177s.
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I have read the thread and I feel your pain with the sight of brown rust on such a beauty. One thing that should be mentioned with any type of salt blued finishes, such as the AA finishes are famous for, is that if the bluing salts are not fully removed or neutralized they will continue to quietly and slowly corrode further. This action does not produce a lustrous blued finish but the oxidized brown rust color you are seeing.
Your bore looks very easily neatralized and saved. It has not produced anything in the realm of pits so you are good to go. Take the time to clean it very well with solvents and then dry patch that bore until it pulls through white. I personally would shoot it a bit afterwards and let it sit a few days then clean it again until you can see that no brown is coming out after each cleaning. A watchful eye over an extended period of time will ensure you have removed any of the old bluing salts for sure.
I collect and encounter older rifles that appear to never have been removed from their stocks and still show signs of blueing salt oxidation after 50 years. They still clean up nicely and look great.
What you are seeing is sometimes simply the price we sometimes pay for old school salt blueing on steel.
My.02
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I have read the thread and I feel your pain with the sight of brown rust on such a beauty. One thing that should be mentioned with any type of salt blued finishes, such as the AA finishes are famous for, is that if the bluing salts are not fully removed or neutralized they will continue to quietly and slowly corrode further. This action does not produce a lustrous blued finish but the oxidized brown rust color you are seeing.
Your bore looks very easily neatralized and saved. It has not produced anything in the realm of pits so you are good to go. Take the time to clean it very well with solvents and then dry patch that bore until it pulls through white. I personally would shoot it a bit afterwards and let it sit a few days then clean it again until you can see that no brown is coming out after each cleaning. A watchful eye over an extended period of time will ensure you have removed any of the old bluing salts for sure.
I collect and encounter older rifles that appear to never have been removed from their stocks and still show signs of blueing salt oxidation after 50 years. They still clean up nicely and look great.
What you are seeing is sometimes simply the price we sometimes pay for old school salt blueing on steel.
My.02
First off, thank you for the information.
Second, do you think it would be safe to use like a Hoppes solvent on the bore as long as you dry it out with dry patches really well? Or do you think I may have a detonation are dieseling problem if I use a solvent like that? Or should I just wait until the ballistol gets delivered? Another question for everyone that has pro sports I’m having a hard time trying to figure out how to clean the bore without depositing oil/solvents in the built in moderator on the end of the barrel while cleaning. Maybe pro sport owners could share their techniques for cleaning? thank you
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You might use some JB bore paste prior to the balistal. I use it on new guns.
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Second, do you think it would be safe to use like a Hoppes solvent on the bore as long as you dry it out with dry patches really well? Or do you think I may have a detonation are dieseling problem if I use a solvent like that? Or should I just wait until the ballistol gets delivered?
If there's nothing to combust, you won't have dieseling or detonation. So Hoppes should be ok if you mop out the bore with a dry patch, and made sure none drips into the compression chamber - if it does, wipe it out. Even Ballistol will combust if you don't pull a dry patch through after it.
I agree with the previous poster that a mild, non-embedding abrasive like JB or Remington 40X might be most effective at removing the rust.
Regarding your shroud, I don't own a PS, so I'm not sure how long the baffled area is, but a soda straw often works well to guide patches through the baffled space.
Good luck!
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You might use some JB bore paste prior to the balistal. I use it on new guns.
I really like the JB Bore Paste it works great in my spring guns and all air guns! Very good stuff, I didn't want to say much on that subject. Reason is I don't want to be wrong with what I do and ruin someone else's barrel
🙈🙈
Have a Great Holiday Fellas
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There is a lot of valuable information in this write up.
Concerning barrel length check after the first two vids.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100568.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=100568.0)
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What is this? It has the consistency and look of salt. When I took the rifle out of the box the first time it had a little bit of this white salty looking stuff coming out of the cylinder and shroud taper. I didn’t think much of it and just wiped the gun clean. Last weekend I Ran 15 patches through the barrel. I then let the gun sit for all week long upside down in my gun vice. And when I picked it up Saturday morning it had this white salty looking crust seeping out from the seam.
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Definitely blueing salt residue. My advise is to photograph intensely and then neutralize it asap. I would use hot, hot, hot soapy water. Treat it the same as a muzzle loader cleaning......and then repeat it.
If this a resent purchase, I would be calling/emailing/telegraphing someone affiliated with Air Arms NOW.
Improper/inadequate blueing rinse for sure.
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What is this? It has the consistency and look of salt. When I took the rifle out of the box the first time it had a little bit of this white salty looking stuff coming out of the cylinder and shroud taper. I didn’t think much of it and just wiped the gun clean. Last weekend I Ran 15 patches through the barrel. I then let the gun sit for all week long upside down in my gun vice. And when I picked it up Saturday morning it had this white salty looking crust seeping out from the seam.
This in combination with your barrel issues - I would return it. This is a rifle that was made on a Monday morning. I would see if you could get a replacement action for your beautiful stock.
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Definitely blueing salt residue. My advise is to photograph intensely and then neutralize it asap. I would use hot, hot, hot soapy water. Treat it the same as a muzzle loader cleaning......and then repeat it.
If this a resent purchase, I would be calling/emailing/telegraphing someone affiliated with Air Arms NOW.
Improper/inadequate blueing rinse for sure.
Thank you for your expertise. After your last post about bluing salts and rust that’s kind of what I was assuming is that it was leaching out more salt. I’ve taken some good photos. I purchased this pro sport brand new two weeks ago from pyramid air. I will be emailing/calling them first thing Monday morning. Thanks again
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What is this? It has the consistency and look of salt. When I took the rifle out of the box the first time it had a little bit of this white salty looking stuff coming out of the cylinder and shroud taper. I didn’t think much of it and just wiped the gun clean. Last weekend I Ran 15 patches through the barrel. I then let the gun sit for all week long upside down in my gun vice. And when I picked it up Saturday morning it had this white salty looking crust seeping out from the seam.
This in combination with your barrel issues - I would return it. This is a rifle that was made on a Monday morning. I would see if you could get a replacement action for your beautiful stock.
I agree. After running 15 patches through the boar last weekend and then taking a really close look down the bore, there appears to be some pitting In the bore about a quarter inch back from the muzzle. Being that there is a fairly long moderator at the end of the barrel it’s a little hard to see. It will definitely not show up in a picture,you actually have to look at it. Now that there is bluing salts seeping out of the cylinder tube taper, I feel like there is just too many odd, negatives With the action. I love the stock and like everything else about the pro sport so I am going to ask pyramyd air if they will Exchange the action and let me keep the stock.
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Ryan, with all the trouble that you have had with the Pro Sport, would you have still purchased it if you had to do it all over again?
I know that sounds like a stupid question but I have been thinking about getting a Pro Sport for some time. I have several Beemans and Weihrauchs. I have a love-hate relationship with those air guns. After purchasing them, I had to do quite a bit of work on them to get them to shoot well. Now that they have all been tuned, they shoot like a dream.
For once it would be nice to buy an air gun that I don't have to tinker with right out of the box. The only air rifle that has never needed any work was my FWB 300S.
Sorry for the long rationale for my question but I'm thinking about a Pro Sport in a .22 caliber. So, would you have still bought it, knowing what you know now?
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Ryan, with all the trouble that you have had with the Pro Sport, would you have still purchased it if you had to do it all over again?
I know that sounds like a stupid question but I have been thinking about getting a Pro Sport for some time. I have several Beemans and Weihrauchs. I have a love-hate relationship with those air guns. After purchasing them, I had to do quite a bit of work on them to get them to shoot well. Now that they have all been tuned, they shoot like a dream.
For once it would be nice to buy an air gun that I don't have to tinker with right out of the box. The only air rifle that has never needed any work was my FWB 300S.
Sorry for the long rationale for my question but I'm thinking about a Pro Sport in a .22 caliber. So, would you have still bought it, knowing what you know now?
To answer your question yes. I would get the pro sport again. The design of the gun is just very very well thought out, and I agree with you I think it’s the closest thing you’re going to get to a tuned springer right out of the box.
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To give everybody an update. The gun is going back to pyramyd air. They said they definitely want that rifle back. They have been talking and sharing my pictures with air arms. Air arms sent me an apology for the problems with the rifle. Pyramyd air warrantee department is going to see if they have Another pro sport with a comparable Walnut stock. They are going to send me some pictures and if I don’t like any of those pics, they are going to put a new action in the original stock for me. Great customer service over there at pyramyd air!
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To give everybody an update. The gun is going back to pyramyd air. They said they definitely want that rifle back. They have been talking and sharing my pictures with air arms. Air arms sent me an apology for the problems with the rifle. Pyramyd air warrantee department is going to see if they have Another pro sport with a comparable Walnut stock. They are going to send me some pictures and if I don’t like any of those pics, they are going to put a new action in the original stock for me. Great customer service over there at pyramyd air!
[/quo
Hey my Brother, PA does stand behind every sale. Customer service is really good. The very first PS I purchased I had issues. The gun was drop shipped to John n PA upon opening the gun John found the internals were a mess. Wound up with. TXHC.177 walnut. But kept wishing I had just gotten another PS. Took me 2yrs before I purchased a PS .177 and this one was AWESOME!!!! Got her tuned and turned around and bought another PS .22 used for $400 Just received the .22 back from John on Thurdsay Man!!!!! 19fpe with GTO dead accurate and SOOOOO smooth to cock. Now my TXHC .177 .22 PS .177 .22 are out f this world. Smooth and a pleasure to shoot.
Best of Luck Brother Man
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First I like to thank everybody for all their input and advice. To update everyone, I received my pro sport back from Pyramyd Air. I received my beautiful original stock with a new action. the bore looks clean and bright. The bluing looks excellent. I hope it shoots as good as it looks. All I’ve had the chance to do is fondle it in the living room. I am super busy right now but hope to get out and shoot some maybe this weekend. A big thumbs up to Pyramyd Air and air Venturi for their customer service!😁
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All is well that ends well. :-*
Sorry for all your troubles, glad they seem behind you.
Pyramid did just what they are supposed to do, stand behind a defective product.
I'm sure Air Arms has major egg of their face.
-Y
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great to hear
hope it shoots as great as it looks
shes a looker :o ::)
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She is a keeper. I put 60 shots through to break her in. Using RWS Superdome’s Here are some groups I shot. The first one is five shots at 10 yards the second one, is three shots at 20 yards and the third pic is three shots at 30 yards. I am very happy with the way it is shooting. I don’t know if I ever mentioned it but this rifle is 22 caliber. I put a set of hawk match rings and a leupold 3x9-40 efr scope. I went with a light weight scope because I am going to use this rifle for hunting. The pro sport is a fairly heavy rifle so I was trying to make it as lite as possible.
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Those groups are looking good.
ADD in only 60 through the bore
Yawzer!💪😵
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Some H&N FTT's or AA 7.87, 8.4 or 10.3 grain pellets may tighten up those groups even more.
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Some H&N FTT's or AA 7.87, 8.4 or 10.3 grain pellets may tighten up those groups even more.
Gearing up for a long hard winter of logging, but I hope to try out a variety of pellets come spring. Would it be a waste of time to do that this time of year? How much will cold weather affect my rifles poi?
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Some H&N FTT's or AA 7.87, 8.4 or 10.3 grain pellets may tighten up those groups even more.
Gearing up for a long hard winter of logging, but I hope to try out a variety of pellets come spring. Would it be a waste of time to do that this time of year? How much will cold weather affect my rifles poi?
The POI will definitely change with different weather conditions, but it should remain consistent for a shooting session. Of course, it's hard to maintain perfect trigger control when your hands are freezing or if you are wearing gloves ;D
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As someone who lives in northern Wisconsin and shoots, outside in the winter with her ProSport, it's not at all a waste of time. I usually take some warm up shots to loosen things up before getting too serious about groups and, yes, you'll likely get some POI changes, but nothing you can't work, around. Sure beats putting a gun away for the winter. Don't forget try shooting indoors, too, if that's an option. The PS has a bit more fpe than needed for typical indoor work, but even at 10 meters it's a fun gun to shoot. Do it all winter long with mine.
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As someone who lives in northern Wisconsin and shoots, outside in the winter with her ProSport, it's not at all a waste of time. I usually take some warm up shots to loosen things up before getting too serious about groups and, yes, you'll likely get some POI changes, but nothing you can't work, around. Sure beats putting a gun away for the winter. Don't forget try shooting indoors, too, if that's an option. The PS has a bit more fpe than needed for typical indoor work, but even at 10 meters it's a fun gun to shoot. Do it all winter long with mine.
Great to hear.👍 I will definitely do some shooting this winner. And if I can figure something out maybe try to shoot indoors the pro sport definitely seems quiet enough to shoot indoors.
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Pellet rifles are shot at such close distances that I’m not used to. This is a brand new rifle and new scope and is grouping well. at 20 yards I am 85 clicks down. Does this seem correct for my pro sport shooting air arms .22 cal pellets?
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Pellet rifles are shot at such close distances that I’m not used to. This is a brand new rifle and new scope and is grouping well. at 20 yards I am 85 clicks down. Does this seem correct for my pro sport shooting air arms .22 cal pellets?
Sounds like some droop issues, from optical zero, I would like to see a rifle shoot 3" low.
Jason G
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OP, I would suspect the scope and/or the way it's mounted. When I got my TX200, I mounted a Hammers scope...a better one is on the way...and it shot way low. I don't blame 'barrel droop'. I blame an inexpensive scope. As long as you're on target now, and not at the limits of your adjustment, it's all good...in my admittedly inexperienced with airguns opinion, that is!
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Many pellet rifles have varying degrees of barrel droop the solution is a droop compensating mount. If you choose to forgo the compensating mount plan on replacing scopes frequently the cheaper the scope the shorter the life of the scope. the problem is that even if the scope has enough elevation to correct for the low POI you are probably near the limits of adjustability. This will not work well in the long run because of the stress on the inner workings of the scope.
I went through three AG rated scopes on my Diana D460 before installing the compensating mount and since then no further scope failures
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The scope is a leupold 3-9x33 efr. I’m using hawke match mount two piece rings. I’m really trying to stay away from a one piece mount, I really don’t care for the looks of one piece mounts. The leupold bottoms out at around 150 clicks down from center. I’m at 85 down so slightly more than halfway,( assuming that all 150 clicks are usable.
1.Do the experts on here think I’m in the ok zone of adjustment?
2. How much can you shim the scope in the rings, safety without tube damage?
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Sounds like some droop issues, from optical zero, I would like to see a rifle shoot 3" low.
Jason G
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So are you saying, after mounting your scope, and your crosshairs are optically centered, the pellets should be hitting 3in low at 20yards? If you’re scope is 1/4 moa, how meny clicks down to zero it?
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Sounds like some droop issues, from optical zero, I would like to see a rifle shoot 3" low.
Jason G
So are you saying, after mounting your scope, and your crosshairs are optically centered, the pellets should be hitting 3in low at 20yards? If you’re scope is 1/4 moa, how meny clicks down to zero it?
[/quote]
About 60 clicks up.
-Y
Think about getting an adaptor base with built in droop compensation, then mount 2 piece rings on top.
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Sounds like some droop issues, from optical zero, I would like to see a rifle shoot 3" low.
Jason G
So are you saying, after mounting your scope, and your crosshairs are optically centered, the pellets should be hitting 3in low at 20yards? If you’re scope is 1/4 moa, how meny clicks down to zero it?
About 60 clicks up.
-Y
Think about getting an adaptor base with built in droop compensation, then mount 2 piece rings on top.
[/quote]
Are you comfortable with 60 clicks up as a permanent way to zero in a leupold on a Pro-Sport?
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Sounds like some droop issues, from optical zero, I would like to see a rifle shoot 3" low.
Jason G
So are you saying, after mounting your scope, and your crosshairs are optically centered, the pellets should be hitting 3in low at 20yards? If you’re scope is 1/4 moa, how meny clicks down to zero it?
About 60 clicks up.
-Y
Think about getting an adaptor base with built in droop compensation, then mount 2 piece rings on top.
Are you comfortable with 60 clicks up as a permanent way to zero in a leupold on a Pro-Sport?
[/quote]
I like the BKL260D7 on the AA, they bite the dovetails real well,
Jason G
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The scope is a leupold 3-9x33 efr. I’m using hawke match mount two piece rings. I’m really trying to stay away from a one piece mount, I really don’t care for the looks of one piece mounts. The leupold bottoms out at around 150 clicks down from center. I’m at 85 down so slightly more than halfway,( assuming that all 150 clicks are usable.
1.Do the experts on here think I’m in the ok zone of adjustment?
2. How much can you shim the scope in the rings, safety without tube damage?
You seem to be jumping around a bit.
What EXACTLY are you trying to do?
Are you setting up your rifle for hunting or 10 meter target?
I sighted my rifle in at 30 yards. I use a mil-dot scope on this rifle. (The other has a simple duplex reticle.)
Because the pellet trajectory crosses the line of sight twice, once near and once far, ALL of my corrections are "hold over".
When I practice shooting at paper at say 10 yards/meters I either use (mil-dot) hold over or, I place an aiming point "X" inches above the bulls eye.
If there is enough paper below the bulls-eye, I usually don't worry about it as I am "shooting for group size" and the "score" (to me) is not relevant and as a bonus, my aiming point stays intact!!
There are two piece adjustable rings available ... I just don't like to mess with the set-up once everything where it needs to be. (In my case it's for hunting, plinking and a little field target.)
Google is your friend ... ;)
https://www.google.com/search?q=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&aqs=chrome..69i57.26432j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&aqs=chrome..69i57.26432j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
My favorite - Burris Signature Rings.
https://www.google.com/search?q=burris+signature+rings&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=burris+signature&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.11261j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=burris+signature+rings&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=burris+signature&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.11261j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
Cheers,
Smoketown
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The scope is a leupold 3-9x33 efr. I’m using hawke match mount two piece rings. I’m really trying to stay away from a one piece mount, I really don’t care for the looks of one piece mounts. The leupold bottoms out at around 150 clicks down from center. I’m at 85 down so slightly more than halfway,( assuming that all 150 clicks are usable.
1.Do the experts on here think I’m in the ok zone of adjustment?
2. How much can you shim the scope in the rings, safety without tube damage?
You seem to be jumping around a bit.
What EXACTLY are you trying to do?
Are you setting up your rifle for hunting or 10 meter target?
I sighted my rifle in at 30 yards. I use a mil-dot scope on this rifle. (The other has a simple duplex reticle.)
Because the pellet trajectory crosses the line of sight twice, once near and once far, ALL of my corrections are "hold over".
When I practice shooting at paper at say 10 yards/meters I either use (mil-dot) hold over or, I place an aiming point "X" inches above the bulls eye.
If there is enough paper below the bulls-eye, I usually don't worry about it as I am "shooting for group size" and the "score" (to me) is not relevant and as a bonus, my aiming point stays intact!!
There are two piece adjustable rings available ... I just don't like to mess with the set-up once everything where it needs to be. (In my case it's for hunting, plinking and a little field target.)
Google is your friend ... ;)
https://www.google.com/search?q=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&aqs=chrome..69i57.26432j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=2+piece+adjustable+rings+for+airguns&aqs=chrome..69i57.26432j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
My favorite - Burris Signature Rings.
https://www.google.com/search?q=burris+signature+rings&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=burris+signature&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.11261j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 (https://www.google.com/search?q=burris+signature+rings&rlz=1C1RNPN_enUS411US491&oq=burris+signature&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.11261j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
Cheers,
Smoketown
I want to be zeroed at 20 yards. I want to know how many clicks from optical center is “ok”, before you feel I need to get a droop compensating Mount, or other adjustable rings. Also how much shimming I can do in the hawke rings them selves before you are in danger of causing scope tube damage.
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I would not recommend shimming the rings. One piece mounts are the best route by all means. But I know folks swear by the Burris rings with the inserts, I would go that route with the two piece. Some of the cheap Chinese mounts most likely are not line bored or paired. This will cause issues with a scope also. Flip the rings front to rear and see what happens. Also do some height measurements with calipers and see how close they are to each other.
Mac1 use to offer two piece mounts, paired and line bored to minute of angle, check these out,
http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DrMe1Sp11 (http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=DrMe1Sp11)
Jason G
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Ryon, This is only my opinion based on my personal experience. Running a scope that far from optical center is not good on a springer. On a PCP you’d probably never have an issue, but on a springer you will. It may hold zero perfectly....for awhile, but then the affects if being so far out from center will begin to set it and you’ll struggle holding POI. If all you want to do is hold soda can accuracy at 30 yards, the scope will probably do that fine. But if you’re looking for tight groups with pellets touching, there will come a point where the groups will start to grow and if you aren’t careful you will spend hours and hours trying to troubleshoot a rifle for a scope problem.
My first recommendation would be to get that scope back to optical center asap. Dont let it sit that far out. Next would be to pick up a good single piece adjustable like Sportsmatch offers. But if the looks bother you that much, then go with their adjustable 2-piece rings.
Hope this helps😉
Steve
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Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate the help. This air guning is turning out to be a little more complex than I first thought. It is a good challenge. Sure am glad for all you fellas willing to share you expertise with us. Thanks
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May be a silly question but can/did you try to attach your one piece mount the other way round?
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Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate the help. This air guning is turning out to be a little more complex than I first thought. It is a good challenge. Sure am glad for all you fellas willing to share you expertise with us. Thanks
Like others, I came from the firearms world, and I gotta say...there is a LOT to this airgunning thang! Well, at least in terms of springers...every shooting session.is a new challenge. Whether it's the conditions, the tightness of the fasteners on the rifle, or my mental outlook, there's always a new thing to overcome.
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I like shooting my springers mainly due to the fact that they require me to focus on my basic shooting skills and technique. That translates into better results no matter what rifle I pick up and shoot ;D ;D
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I like shooting my springers mainly due to the fact that they require me to focus on my basic shooting skills and technique. That translates into better results no matter what rifle I pick up and shoot ;D ;D
Where's "da tums up" button???
Cheers,
Smoketown
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I’ve had a nice walnut Prosport since the first batch made.
I haven’t shot it too much as Most of my time is taken up with Field target.
A few years ago I shot it in the cold and noticed a power drop, so I stripped it, cleaned out all the AA lube and replaced with fine locksmiths graphite powder as the only lube in the piston chamber.
Since then the power has remained consistently good whatever the temperature and shot to shot is low singles over the chrono. I’ve owned a few air rifles in my time but the Prosport really is up there as one of the classic greats.
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I’ve had a nice walnut Prosport since the first batch made.
I haven’t shot it too much as Most of my time is taken up with Field target.
A few years ago I shot it in the cold and noticed a power drop, so I stripped it, cleaned out all the AA lube and replaced with fine locksmiths graphite powder as the only lube in the piston chamber.
Since then the power has remained consistently good whatever the temperature and shot to shot is low singles over the chrono. I’ve owned a few air rifles in my time but the Prosport really is up there as one of the classic greats.
First batch made....I'm salivating just thinking about it ;D
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What do you shoot FT with? Couldn't you use the PS?
-Y
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What do you shoot FT with? Couldn't you use the PS?
-Y
I have an Anschutz 9003 which I use for FT, the ProSport is just because I like the simplicities of springers, though of course they’re anything except simple.
I got this one as a friend of mine was going to the ProSport launch event and I jokingly said if they had any nice walnut stocked ones spare to pick me up one.
The following week he handed me the rifle and I was absolutely amazed.