Thank you for the detailed report and the great pictures! I'm looking forward to hearing more. BTW, how do you always get those amazing groups? Are you using a bag, rest, bipod, etc.?
Quote from: Gear_Junkie on February 17, 2018, 05:58:40 PMThank you for the detailed report and the great pictures! I'm looking forward to hearing more. BTW, how do you always get those amazing groups? Are you using a bag, rest, bipod, etc.?Hi Zack, Nothing special.....I use a single caldwell bag placed at the balance point. Shifting the rifle back and forth about 1/4" at a time will eventually show you the sweet spot for a given rifle Steve
What a beauty and beautifully chronicled! Thank you. Did you get a chance to weight the different pistons before you put them it. I'm assuming that the weight the you took out of the piston is almost matched by the increased weight of the sleeved compression tube. Of course one is moving and the other is not.-Y
I was rushed for time yesterday when I posted my overview and forgot to mention the thickness of the included spacers. They are as follows;4.14mm3.22mm2.47mm2.26mmThis gives you a nice range to fine tune to your desired sub 12 energy level. This morning I did some more experimenting and removed the 4.14mm spacer I had installed, replacing it with the thinnest 2.26mm spacer. The result was as follows;Before4.14mm spacer11.20 fpeAfter2.26mm spacer10.84 fpeThis equates to about 0.19 fpe per mm of preloadBased on some previous tuning with the factory pistons, as you start to drop into the sub 11 fpe range, the weight of the factory piston becomes more apparent, slowing down the shot cycle. The rifle feels smooth, but shot cycle is slow and can make the rifle finicky on target, actually tougher to maintain the tiny little groups consistently....so you speed the shot cycle back up, into the 11 fpe range to get your consistency back.With this small diameter, lightweight 22mm set-up, you can drop into the sub 11fpe category and still have an extremely fast shot cycle. This little piston is quick! What this means is that you can continue to soften the shot, while maintaining the quick shot cycle. On target this means it is easier to hold those tiny little groups Here is a 10-shot group at 20 yards. Yes you still have to do your part with good form, breathing, etc.....but this group was in no way difficult. One shot after the other was dropping right into this tiny little hole The more I shoot this rifle, the more impressed I am with this 22mm kit. I am going to let it right where it is and just shoot Steve
Steve,Glad to see a one of these conversion's make it over! You stepped in it so all the pressure is on you! lol What type, where and how much lube to did you end up using on the conversion? Any chance of a video showing the difference in shot cycle between your factory tune and short stroked skirt less? Also curious to see how a stronger spring or more pre-load effects shot cycle and performance. Maybe not much to gain due to the working volume? Regards, DT
We all know ..... the BEST lube is a 60/40 blend of Moly 70+ and KRYTOX! Stir the two together until you get an oatmeal consistency, which won't take long. Apply a liberal amount ..... shoot until the piston actually seizes!!!!!!!!!!OF COURSE, I AM KIDDING!!!! Not kidding ..... never use Krytox on an airgun, and never let it come in contact with another lube ..... it doesn't play nice with any kind of lube.Pappy / Allan
Quote from: DanT on February 20, 2018, 11:38:19 PMSteve,Glad to see a one of these conversion's make it over! You stepped in it so all the pressure is on you! lol What type, where and how much lube to did you end up using on the conversion? Any chance of a video showing the difference in shot cycle between your factory tune and short stroked skirt less? Also curious to see how a stronger spring or more pre-load effects shot cycle and performance. Maybe not much to gain due to the working volume? Regards, DTHi Dan, Tony ships the kit fully lubed, along with a small container of his own blend of moly 70. However, I scrubbed everything up for pictures and used the lube that I have found to work best in my rifles, which was the Vortek Moly 70+. At some point I will test the lube that Tony shipped with the kit. I burnished a small amount into the walls of the comp tube as far down as I could reach, then smeared a tiny bit around the edge of the main seal, making sure not to get any in front of the seal. I also smeared a light film on the piston rod, and onto the spring guide. Outside of spring was smeared with a very light film of moly as well. Being that there is no skirt, it is important not to mix any lubes...if moly, then moly all the way I would like to do a video with a measurable demonstration of the recoil differences between a stock rifle and this kit. I can tell you the difference is substantial. The difference in cocking effort is also substantial. Comparing it to the recoil after I had tuned it down to 11.3fpe with the JM QX4600 spring was also a very noticeable improvement.Tony would have to answer questions regarding heavier springs and this kit. How far could you push the energy levels with the skirtless? I don't know. I could easily push 12 fpe with this kit and the spacers provided.Steve