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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General > American/U.S. Air Gun Gates

Daisy Powerline 41 Chrome

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SpringerGuy:
Just bought a Daisy 41 which has not arrived yet I assume it will mimic my S&W 78G.  Any advice about tips or modifications to your Daisy Powerline 41

Randy   

SpringerGuy:
I bought it because it is fairly rare production airgun with production being less than a year.  By the lack of replies I guess very few other airgunners shoots or collect these airguns. 

It is not as smooth as my S&W mainly trigger travel that cannot be adjusted.  I bought it just to have another shiney gun. 

Randy

bantam5s:

--- Quote from: SpringerGuy on February 22, 2024, 05:33:32 AM ---I bought it because it is fairly rare production airgun with production being less than a year.  By the lack of replies I guess very few other airgunners shoots or collect these airguns. 

It is not as smooth as my S&W mainly trigger travel that cannot be adjusted.  I bought it just to have another shiney gun. 

Randy

--- End quote ---
There doesn't seem to be too many people around here who even own the S&W 78/79G's which are considered far superior to the later daisy copies so I'd imagine you may not get many responses.

As far as I know they kept the mechanism the same so any mods for the S&W's should apply.
I know there's somebody who has put the trigger and bolt...etc from a S&W into their daisy 41.

Airjason:
Good to see you got a S&W 78G, I have two of them, and I did have to modify mines. One was given to me by a friend who messed with it, the rear sights was lost and I replaced it with something off a Thompson Center muzzleloader rifle. The second one I bought on ebay, it was missing the CO2 reservoir cap, but I found the cap on ebay a couple of years later, and the pistol is complete. Both pistols had a serious gas leak between the valve and the barrel, there is only a metal to metal seal there, using a brass coupler. It needs a o-ring placed there to seal the gas. Because there isn't enough of a gap there, it is difficult to install an o-ring. On one, I just used electrical tape as a gasket/seal, on the other one, I made a new brass coupler that was a tiny bit wider than the original. Both pistols shoot OK now, there is still a slight gas leak on firing, I can feel it with my hands over the bolt, but accuracy of both guns improved a lot, and the noise is less than before. To take apart the pistol upper part, there is a tube behind the power adjusting screw at the muzzle end with a solid rod inside (use inertia to get rod out), then you need a 3/8" tapered rat tail file to stick in and pull the tube out. There are videos on this on YT. As for the trigger pull, I couldn't find a way to lighten it, mines are at about 1 pound, so not messing with it.
The two stage power switch doesn't work as intended, it hangs up on the first stage before hitting the valve, so be happy with the lower power setting which can be increased using the power adjusting screw at the front.
 

bantam5s:

--- Quote from: Airjason on February 23, 2024, 03:41:26 AM ---Good to see you got a S&W 78G, I have two of them, and I did have to modify mines. One was given to me by a friend who messed with it, the rear sights was lost and I replaced it with something off a Thompson Center muzzleloader rifle. The second one I bought on ebay, it was missing the CO2 reservoir cap, but I found the cap on ebay a couple of years later, and the pistol is complete. Both pistols had a serious gas leak between the valve and the barrel, there is only a metal to metal seal there, using a brass coupler. It needs a o-ring placed there to seal the gas. Because there isn't enough of a gap there, it is difficult to install an o-ring. On one, I just used electrical tape as a gasket/seal, on the other one, I made a new brass coupler that was a tiny bit wider than the original. Both pistols shoot OK now, there is still a slight gas leak on firing, I can feel it with my hands over the bolt, but accuracy of both guns improved a lot, and the noise is less than before. To take apart the pistol upper part, there is a tube behind the power adjusting screw at the muzzle end with a solid rod inside (use inertia to get rod out), then you need a 3/8" tapered rat tail file to stick in and pull the tube out. There are videos on this on YT. As for the trigger pull, I couldn't find a way to lighten it, mines are at about 1 pound, so not messing with it.
The two stage power switch doesn't work as intended, it hangs up on the first stage before hitting the valve, so be happy with the lower power setting which can be increased using the power adjusting screw at the front.

--- End quote ---
How bad do your grips smell ?

I can see the acetate has started to break down as evidenced by that white powder that has developed on their surface.
I had not heard of this being an issue before I got my 79g and they had it , just like the old Craftsman Xcelite and Vaco acetate handle screwdrivers my grips had that white powder and the puke smell.
Thankfully it wasn't that strong and it really only persists on the underside of the grips so I don't smell it unless the grips are off.

It's a shame that you had so many air leak problems with your guns, I bought a reseal kit for mine and have not had a single issue with it.
Accuracy isn't quite what I'd like to see no matter what pellets I try, but power sure is up there.

 I was able to lighten the trigger pull on mine, it was on the heavier side and it's still not exactly great but it's definitely lighter than it was before.
I do not remember what I did , but I'm sure it just had to do with the spring.

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