Bruce,Material that your printer can handle and produce prints with good layer to layer adhesion. PETG or PLA, ABS or Nylon. The setting for those are all different. Start with small prints to see how they do and if they are strong and the dimensions are close to the print file spec.PLA is actually very strong and stiff, but sags if you leave it in the sun. UV also degrades it over time.
Might be interesting to add a segment that is only a spacer, with full volume and no baffle. Then one could compare the benefit of baffles vs. volume.Bruce, I would think that even .2mm is fine for things without a lot of decorative detail. You could compare how the threads come out at the two different layer heights.
I use CURA as the slicer, but this might help for the Prusa slicerhttps://help.prusa3d.com/category/prusaslicer_204For something like these designs, I would use a high % infill or 100% for strength. For your Benchy, 15% is fine since you don't care that the inside is like other than providing some support.
sliced them in cura 5.2.1 the 3 on the table would take 9hr 35min 60g an 19.51m of material. on the vyper.
(3d printing) is not a hobby for the impatient, that's for sure. More of a slow and steady thing...What thickness settings did you use for that? 100% infill? What supports?
I missed the turn it over and slice it part, but I still printed it, with the wrong settings. I just wanted to see what it looked like and if other things came out right. Print finished, so I will take a look at it. Having Octoprint is great.
OK, here is my 30,000 ft view of the process, probably too simplistic but it works for me. Note: you don't have to use the Prusa slicer. CURA (free) and others do the same thing, some better than others. Use whichever one is most intuitive.The slicer takes 3 pieces of information and creates the instructions for the printer - for every individual motion it makes and how it pushed filament through the hot end.First it needs the printer information. This is usually just a pull down menu choice that selects the printer by name. That pulldown selects a printer profile that contains parameters like XYZ printing limits, motor speeds, heated bed, etc. You can fine tune all of these parameters in the detailed list in the slicer menus if you want.Second it needs filament material information. This is also an option on a pull-down menu. Sometimes filament brand specific but I usually use the "Generic PLA" as an example. These profiles set the extruder and bed temperatures, and other parameters like how the filament is pushed/retracted through the nozzle and the cooling fan settings. You can fine tune these with experience. Initially, the extruder and bed temperatures are probably the most important.Third it needs the 3D model information. This is often an .stl file like Subscriber provided but other formats can also work. If you picked a .15mm layer height the slicer will take that file and create horizontal layers for each .15mm starting from the bed up and create the motion and filament instructions based on what it thinks is the optimum path to cover that layer. It then does the next layer. A few things to keep in mind.Model orientation: 3D printing (like sandcastle making) can only generate overhangs to some limit and you can't start a section in mid air. Each model will typically have an orientation that is best for minimizing overhang or needing supports for model sections. You can use the preview function after you slice to see what the slicer added (is supports are turned on) and can try different orientations. Each printer and material has different overhang limits. There are some test models you can try that find the limits for your machine.Bed adhesion: Tall skinny models can get knocked over so the slicer has a way of adding a wider base section (removable) to avoid that (e.g. Brim, Raft)Printing multiple parts at once: This can be convenient so you don't have to start each one but you want to cluster them closely because the slicer will print them all at once on each layer so the print head has to move from one to another and the overall print takes longer.The resulting g-code file is just a long sequence of instructions that initializes the printer and then describes the path within each 2D, .15mm layer slice.
Quote from: WobblyHand on November 14, 2022, 05:42:34 PMI missed the turn it over and slice it part, but I still printed it, with the wrong settings. I just wanted to see what it looked like and if other things came out right. Print finished, so I will take a look at it. Having Octoprint is great.what material? my printer as i type this lol.
Bruce,These parts need all the strength they can get; so set for 100% infill.Some printers will be able to do the latest design (screw on baffles) without supports; others not. Try without supports, knowing that there is a risk that the middle of the ceiling may end up flat, or collapse due to lack of support.The monolithic LDC has supports as part of the design, and should be printed with slicer setting: supports off.Note the orientation for printing - indicated in posts. Reversing that will cause some features to fail.0.15 mm resolution is fine. Finer vertical resolution will help printing overhangs without supports. Else 0.2 mm may be the default for many printers.