It's not fixed with a sledge hammer.
Quote from: Bayman on August 16, 2022, 09:26:10 PMIt's not fixed with a sledge hammer.Lots of ways to bend a bar of steel. Sledgehammer is perfectly capable of that. Better to take the gun apart, first, though. If you need someone to tell you that, you're not going to fix anything except with your credit card.I unbent a springer barrel with a sledgehammer after accidentally firing it with the barrel open. Breech block in a vice, hammer to the barrel. I just put a piece of pipe over it to soften the blows.
Regardless of how likely it is, it takes 10 seconds to check. It's almost like people simply can't believe HW can make a mistake like this to begin with. Let alone the reality that the fix involves a sledge hammer to create play where there wasn't any!
That picture of the twisted barrel pistol is what I thought of when unbending my Airem 2. After spending 20 minutes mounting a new scope, I went to take my first shot. Then I decided the target had too many holes, already, after I had already started to pull the trigger. So I cocked the gun to reset the sear and put up a new target with my left hand, never setting down the rifle. Took aim, and fired. That was the smoothest recoil this rifle ever made. And the barrel was bent up about 15-20 degrees, no joke. Bending a rifle barrel UP is easy as pie, because the barrel block positively stops in that direction. Bending it side to side is a bit more difficult, because you can potentially loosen your lockup. Bending it back down, now that's hard to do without the proper tools. There's no leverage in that direction, at all. I'm curious the proper way to unbend a barrel. I ended up putting the breech in a vice, but then I would stand on the top of the rifle with all my weight on one foot right over near the breech face just as I smacked the barrel with a sledgehammer, piece of pipe over the barrel to take the dents.
Yeah, like that. I got it unbent with the hammer. But the barrel developed a wee bit of play in the breech block. As long as I slam the barrel back home, it shoots as good as ever. But if I don't slam the barrel, it doesn't necessarily end up in a consistent spot. I think I'm going to weld the barrel to the breech block, but I don't know how to remove a breech seal without destroying it. After this experience, I believe break barrels tend towards droop on purpose. Droop is way easy to fix, compared to the reverse direction.
Thanks Ed.I have a little bit of bend in the middle, still. This jig should handle that, perfectly. Looks about as efficient as possible.
Quote from: gloob on August 17, 2022, 11:28:49 PMThanks Ed.I have a little bit of bend in the middle, still. This jig should handle that, perfectly. Looks about as efficient as possible. The "tweaker" is placed so all bending is done on the barrel and not at the junction where the barrel is pressed or screwed (old HW break barrels were "pressed and pinned, newer ones are screwed) in the barrel pivot block. This also makes it possible to repeat positioning of the "tweaker" at the same location if some bending needs to be reversed..........