Longevity of a lube tuned 34 vs not?

[compressedair]

So RWS's are dry,.,., but how will that affect a 34's working life span,,,not a marginal increased tuned performance,,,but life span?
Looking at the price of an average lube tune, seems like wasted money to me.  

[Mark 611]

anything that need lubed will last longer as unlubed.

[Mark 611]

anything mechanical is going to break its just a matter of when, all your doing is trying to to make it run and perform better and smoother. by lubing it it'll smooth it up so it'll run longer

[compressedair]

I can't disagree....

[Nathan]

There are airguns out there (RWS's included) that are still going strong 10, 20, 30 or more years later with little or no maintenance done to them. Many guns will break the main spring and continue to work, and the owner/shooter is never any wiser. A "lube tune" can be done by yourself at home with minimal hand tools, other than a spring compressor( and although I and others here don't recommend it, you can do it with out one, but you do so at your own risk  ). The only cash outlay (other than for the parts to built a compressor) is for the proper lubes. Once you build the compressor, you can use it on different/other guns too. If you buy the lubes from Macarri, a little goes a long way (enough to do several guns). Lubing it right will make it shoot smoother and help it last longer too. (can't hurt right?). Plus there is the satisfaction of doing the work yourself and seeing/feeling the results.

Nathan

[krimson_cardnal]

You've just explained the reason for my next objective, build a compressor.

[compressedair]

A home tune is sensible and if I was more than 1/4 German I'd probably relish the idea.
Seriously, a lot of info out there for making a spring compressor,,,thanks!

[RedFeather]

Older guns may have been better lubed from the factory.  Not sure when Diana started shipping "dry".  One thing to consider is that spring tar provides the "fuel" for the gun in order for it to combust properly.  One good tarring should last years.

[shadow]

When performing a tune it's always better to do it right and put a good hone/crosshatch in the compression tube. This gives the lube a place to settle into and provide a longer service life of the piston seal along with consistent sealing with each firing cycle. Ed

[Gary]

Results may vary. Between a buddy of mine and myself we have three 34's. When the spring broke on buds gun I ordered springs and seals for all of them from J.M. Before the parts arrived another spring went. The parts got here and we tore one down and did all the usual clean,hone etc. This was the first time to have ever opened up a springer for either of us. Any way put rifle together and test fired a few times and went to the next one. Same thing now for the kicker, since we were on a roll we did number three but did not replace anything. Just cleaned, honed and lubed.All are still shooting and I still have that third spring and seal for when that spring goes. That all happened three summers ago so I would have to say that it helped the third rifle.
Gary

[only1harry]

My Diana 36 .177 (same powerplant as 34) was advance-tuned many years ago and was still cocking smoothly and was the most accurate Springer in my arsenal.. until I went away and left it cocked for 5 days.  Now the JM spring needs to be replaced, but it still shoots pretty well.  Just with a lower velocity and accuracy has diminished slightly.  Tuned guns last WAY LONGER than untuned ones.  Once everything is lubed up, polished and aligned inside the gun, its longevity (before it needs maintenance) increases dramatically.  I am not the 1st owner of this gun, but I 've had it almost 3yrs and put about about 2,000 pellets through it.  It's a 2001 and I am sure it has a lot more down the barrel.  All the other untuned Dianas I have/had, developed issues after 1,500-2,500 shots and had to be tuned. 

More friction/unlubed = problems much sooner.

[ZVP]

 I don't know why Diana shipes their guns unlubed but I advise against the pratice of just shooting the rifle ulubed.
 In a pinch, you can work a decent amount of JM paqste around the mainspring through the cocking slot and get enough lube on the mainspring to calm things down and to provide a buffer amount of lube to keep the rifle functioning for quite some time. Quick and dirty method but don't shoot a dry rifle!
 I have a 34 that has been so lubed and functions perfectly, I did however also lube the barrel pivot and the cocking arm pivot joints (this helps on the cocking cycle and prevents galling of the metal.
 As the gun fires lexcess lub is thrown forward and also inside the stock so you will need to wipe the internal stock area down. The lube that gets sprung forward seems to make it to the piston area and within a few shots the gun diesels this out. I do not add any chamber lube to the transfer port asw I do n't want to promote deiseling.
 Mind you this is not the ideal lube tune but it does beat the heck out of running a dry gun! My 34 was bought used and was recieved rather dry with an unknown number of pellets thru it. I didn't notice any appreciable preformance change post lubing and I think the rifle was functioning at the optimal point but now I know it's got lube inside. This was done 2 1/2 years ago and at least 1K of shots and the rifle is a tackdriver!
 HTH,
 ZVP

[sam]

Would be great if someone would shoot an indepth vid on YouTube about tearing down and lubing the 34, along with instructions on building a spring compressor and how to use it.

[compressedair]

Spring compressor's been done...don't know about a lube.

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[Mark 611]

that info is out there ya just got to search for it.

[compressedair]

It doesn't look like rocket science Sam.
Here's a link I found. You cud go with the spring upgrade or just buy the tar...$8 jar is enough for 10 guns.
And use the a spring compressor you're going to build first.
http://web.mac.com/photomark/iWeb/Airgun%20Adventures/Diana%20RWS%2034%20Spring%20Upgrade.html