Having two guns with T01 triggers, I recently bolstered my replacement parts stash for these from Versandhaus Schneider. I ordered an inner and an outer sleeve for the trigger mech (or all T01 parts they had). The inner sleeve with the three balls was OK, but the outer sleeve was badly surface corroded - enough to make the sliding part feel really rough to the touch.I immediately doused the rusty sleeve with Ballistol, and pushed the oil in by rubbing with 0000 steel wool. I then contacted Schneider, who promptly returned my money for the part. So, points for them.Goes to show that replacement parts for even 25 year old guns can be getting scarce, at least if good condition is required.
I've used "rust bluing" on some air rifle parts.Maybe one of these bluing methods could be used to resist future rust on this part?
Guys at.a gun club I belong to use a Magic Elixir for cleaning most firearms. I made one batch 15 years ago and am still using it. It lubricates, removes dirt and carbon debris quite well. It is less aggressive towards wood and plastic than some of the others. I bought a badly abused and rusty Rem 870 Express one time and cleaned it up using the mixture and 0000 steel wool. Got it back to near original finish. It also cleans grease and oil off your hands and clothes.The ratio is by volume. 40% Odorless Mineral Spirits, 40% Kerosene, 10% Marvel Mystery Oil, 10% Rislone. I simplified it by using a gallon of mineral spirits, a gallon of kerosene, and quart (about) bottles of Mystery Oil and Rislone. I use it in a spray bottle for everything I need to clean or lubricate. I have an ultrasonic parts cleaner and fill the tank with the mixture. I use and re-use for years by filtering debris out of the liquid with a coffee filter. It gets black with very fine carbon from gunpowder but not a problem. Tools, gun parts, most anything. It would work quite well removing the oils and greases used on springs.
Dave,In my work-related comatose state, I tried googling for Magic Elixir gun products, with extremely thin results. Only then did I realize you were talking about home-mixed stuff. I have no idea where to get kerosene, while Marvel Mystery Oil isn't available here at all and Rislone is only semi-theoretically, but this is one of those things that I appreciate learning about, and will store in my notes for possible future use.[/quoteWhere are you? I think I remember Finland?? If so, try a paint store and an auto parts store. As said in my note about the chemistry - it isn't really Magic - its chemistry. Any decent lubricant with similar properties to Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone Engine treatment and some benign solvent system as I describe will get you there. You could use straight paint thinner as a solvent instead of the mix. Just get one that is primarily alkane solvents rather than the benzene family.
Hector, your idea of Diesel fuel to soak parts in will also work well. You might see if you can find No.1 Diesel as it is lower in paraffins and a bit cleaner. It is sold in winter time in COLD country as Winter Diesel (my daughter used it her diesel car. ) Conventional automotive diesel is now much cleaner than it used to be. The sulfur compounds that make the diesel smelly and smoky have been reduced from about 900ppm to less than 15. That change is what made diesel cars much more successful, particularly in Europe. Combining diesel with an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to hold a rifle action / barrel should work a treat on air rifles. As I mentioned I use an ultrasonic bath for gun parts of all kinds. I don't have one big enough for whole rifles though. I also use a air line to blow all the excess liquid off the parts when I get done. History lesson for those old enough to know what Cosmoline is. Military used to soak rifle metal works in gasoline to remove it. A bit more dangerous that I would care to do but it worked well. Magic Elixir: the idea is to have low viscosity solvents capable of dissolving most greases and lubricants along with detergents to help remove the particulates and 'gunk" that gets in things. There isn't really an magic involved just plain old chemistry at work. Base solvents: No 1. diesel without engine additives would probably work too. To freak you all out, No 1. Diesel is also sold as Jet A fuel used in most jet air craft. Very similar to kerosene,The below are the materials available to the guys who figured it out 50 years ago. Purpose is low viscosity fairly benign solvent. Not too critical as long as it is low viscosity and fairly low volatility (safety for your body and to avoid fires)Kerosene available from camping supply stores or some big box paint department used in oil stoves will work fine. Main purpose here is a solvent that is low in benzene related materials. In US Coleman sells gas stoves and lanterns that use a refined version of kerosene like material. Lower flammability and not too bad a benzene content.Mineral Spirits is plain old paint thinner, Works in most any oil-based paints. DO NOT USE THE MORE AGGRESSIVE VM&P Naphtha, acetone, benzene, toluene xylene andany alcohol based stuff. Low odor and slow evaporation is desired. Gunk Removers and LubricantsMarvel Mystery Oil is a good basic lubricant for most metals. It clings well and gives a protective film that sticks on the metal very well. A possible problem in air guns is that it might hang around in the pistons and cause dieseling. Keep an eye out for that!Rislone makes several products. Two are for removing carbon deposits, dried greases, and "gunk" They also contain penetrating oil. The ones you want are marked for engine treatment. "high mileage engine treatment, "high performance engine treatment". Alternatives: A couple guys swear by Mobil One motor oil - good synthetic engine oil straight. I tried a variant with a synthetic motor oil with poor success. It was too "clingy" and viscous even the 0-10wt stuff. Difficult to get off and left to much oil behind.One guy who worked on jet engines tried the "turbine" lubricant. It is very low viscosity but I have no experience who that. Some follow the above with a water-based cleaner called "Simply Green" - I think. I haven't used it.