BSF MOD 60 disassembly questions.

[WildCJ5]

I was gifted this BSF mod 60 for helping a buddy out. I have worked on all my spring guns, tx, hw, fwb300 etc but I have never taken one of these apart. Any thing I need to watch out for? Mostly concerned about flying trigger parts. I assume it is not a more modern separate unit like a tx or 97.

 

[gk10]

You are definitely going to need a spring compressor as there will likely be a lot of pre-load on the spring.I had a BSF 55 and l think the BSF 60 is similar. I was maybe 15 and the spring got me by suprise and no way could l get it back together.

[c801tfd]

Very similar to the 55, the 60 was the bread and butter Model for a long time but the 55 became the model that airgunners wanted. A new main spring can be purchased from ARH, as stated spring compressor is recommended. Yours has a scope rail that you will need to remove before pulling the piston out of the compression tube. Google and YouTube are useful for this step. I have an older Model 60 without scope rail so no help there.

The piston seal is leather and fingers crossed it is in good shape or reconditions well with a soak in something like neatsfoot foot oil or similar product. If not you’re going to need to deal with the blind pin that hold the piston seal screw in place.

The trigger block is not complicated to work on,but I don’t suggest taking it apart as the housing is some sort of soft pot metal. Just like with Weirauchs you will need to leave it/put it in the cocked position when reassembling the rifle. If it does not stay cocked on lock up you will need a stronger trigger block spring that pushes against the rear compression tube cap or in some cases you can get away with adding a steel washer or quarter to add tension/pressure to the spring when cap is installed. When working they are great shooters. Here is my BSF Model S60 in .177, good luck with your project.

[c801tfd]

Here is some information you may find useful from the out of print Air Rifle Monthly, Volume 17 printed in 1969. This was a special issue for the Model 55 but again very much the same for the Model 60.

[c801tfd]

More info from ARM #17

[c801tfd]

Last 2 page from ARM #17 that may be of help

[WildCJ5]

Thanks for the info! I had it standing on end with some silicone oil in the barrel to soften the seal
If it was still there. I shot it today and it does 10ftlbs and seems consistent and feels smooth.

The trigger is very heavy and does not reset after shooting. But if I push it forward it resets just fine. Guessing it is just full of hard grease.

[c801tfd]

It may be shooting a little low but hard to tell as 10 fpe is common outside of US. Sounds like it could stand some fresh lube at some point. These are fairly easy rifles to rebuild. Wishing you luck on a fun project.

[WildCJ5]

Thanks C80. Just took it apart. Simple design. Main spring is broken and it is covered in nasty old grease. It stinks so bad. It does have a modern seal, not leather.

I may order a seal, clean everything and just cut and reface the spring. It was doing 10ftlbs as it was. That is plenty for the backyard.

[c801tfd]

Seeing this has me thinking about taking my 55N down for a spring refresh and update seals sometime this spring. These are great rifles and with a little care will last a long time.

[Toxylon]

Elroy,

Thank you for the 1969 downloads - they are a blast from the past, as well as highly useful for these BSF's.

[WildCJ5]

Got is back together. I cut off the tip where the spring was broken and heated and flattened the end. The Polly seal seemed ok so I reused it.

The only difference from mine to the above article was how my scope rail attached. Mine has a screw at the front of the rail. The rear part has a lug that slots into the receiver and locks into the trigger unit.

With the open sights and my old eyes I was getting nickel size groups at 20 yards. First few shots over chrono were 11.5 ftlbs. I will retest after more shooting to see if it settles lower.

Thanks again for the articles.

[c801tfd]

Glad to hear another BSF is up and running once again. I am glad the information helped out and that it was a fun read as well. What I find entertaining about the book are the tools used such as run of the mill screw driver and hammer. Also the method used to compress the spring is interesting as well as the amount of moly suggested. My how times, tools and methods changed.

[MDriskill]

Great thread, appreciate all the pics and notes!

For the record, that is definitely a leather piston seal in the photos. As with most similar seals, it's just the outer cup part that is leather, the plug that fills out the center of it is a synthetic.

[lefteyeshot]

What is the diameter of that seal, please, if you measured it? Also, do either of you know if there is a groove on the top of the piston for the scope rail screws to clear?

My c60 was kind of rough looking when I got it but shoots good and strong. Seems like I paid about $150 for it. The stock had water stains on one side so I stripped and sanded it. Nothing fancy just used a varnish poly mix. It looks pretty good. The exterior metal was a little pitted and rusted so I cleaned it best I could with oil and steel wool and sprayed it flat black. Taped over the serial number and Made in Germany West. Put a round sticker for patching targets over the BSF emblem.

It doesn't have a scope rail or grooves. I have n A.I.M. 30mm 2-7x 42 mildot scout scope on it mounted with a picatinny  one rail 5 slot barrel accessory mount and a one piece off-set 2 inches scope mount. The back end of the scope is 3 inches behind the rear sight. I have to set the mag at 5.5x to get a clear picture.

Gun shoots about 725 fps. with RWS Miesters and R-10's. Holes touching at 25 yards. Accurate out to 50 yards. Don't remember the size of the group at 50 but I recall I was satisfied with it.

[c801tfd]

Tim,

The piston seal measures 25mm, as for a groove I am not sure my Model 60 does not have a scope rail. I have not done anything yet to my 55N which has a scope rail, the book I have does not indicate a groove. I will know more in a couple of weeks since the weather is warming up and I get back into rebuild mode.