GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Show us your Custom Airgun Parts (TRICKS-N-TIPS) => Topic started by: Gippeto on July 11, 2017, 02:16:33 AM
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Had some shop time today. :)
Two still on the mill for a run of 12.
(http://i.imgur.com/kDRVOEPl.jpg)
Al
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Very nicely done.
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Good job 8) :D :D
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Nice looking stuff Al.
Steve
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Thanks.:) Ticking along slowly, but making progress. Fixture worked really good, ready to tap the backside now.
(http://i.imgur.com/vfeMbrj.jpg)
Al
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Good work Al I like the way you have done the tank block mounting to the gun.
Marko
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Thanks.:) Ticking along slowly, but making progress. Fixture worked really good, ready to tap the backside now.
(http://i.imgur.com/vfeMbrj.jpg)
Al
Putting your job before your hobbies, Al? LOL!
Glad I got my part time employer to let me work just 5 hour days!
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Nice work, as always, Al.... Where is the seal achieved between the removable stub that fits into the tube and the block?.... What size threads are you using?.... The ones I built previously used a through bolt and two O-rings.... one either side of the threaded ferrule....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/22%20PCP/2560Parts.jpg) (http://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/22%20PCP/2560Parts.jpg.html)
With your one-piece stub, and the ferrule over it, I assume there is an O-ring between the shoulder on the stub and the tank block?.... Is the groove for the O-ring in the block, around the female threads?.... or in the shoulder of the stub, around the male threads?....
Bob
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awesome work as always .. what seals the small threaded hole up top ? ( the small 1/4-20 looking one )
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Rob, I think that is a blind hole just to hold the tank block into the jig for machining.... Al will correct me if I'm wrong....
Bob
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Blocks themselves are all identical. All the stubs are threaded 9/16-12 and will be red loctited in after the blocks are anodized. 1/4-20 (good eye Rob ;) ) hole is the vertical portion of the air passage. Loctite will again be used to seal the grub screw. Blocks will all be fitted with pins to open a pin valve, and have a bleed hole. A fellow will be able to remove partial tanks...as it should be...JMO.
Current state of things;
Made another fixture to pin the stubs and used it on one of the prototypes. Drew up a template in cad and used it to center punch holes in an old qb tube. Used the drill press and a dremel tool to drill and fit the screw heads to the tube. Wanted to prove to myself that "the average Joe" would be able to mount a pre pinned block successfully...and safely. Not as neat or quick as doing it on the mill, but the job was done successfully and the screw heads bear evenly on the tube. Pinned with three 10-32 low head SHCS and not going anywhere. 8) Will be including templates for QB and Crosman tube diameters...which differ slightly. Need to find time to get them finished and anodized.... but work has picked up so they're on the back burner again.
(http://i.imgur.com/IscSikUh.jpg)
Fixture uses a single 1/4-20 grub screw bearing on the flat aluminum piece to hold the part in place. Other grub screw was intended for centering if needed...it wasn't. Aside....the fixture was made from the first casting done in my home foundry...interesting times ahead. 8)
(http://i.imgur.com/p1i5saRh.jpg)
Al
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Nice work Al.
Foundry is on my todo list, would like to compact all alu chips in to something useful.
And could cast some not critical parts on my builds.
Marko
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And could cast some not critical parts on my builds.
Thanks Marko....we DO think a lot alike. ;)
Al
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Well I kind of need one crosman pistol handle / trigger group frame. Could mill it out but casting would be more the way I would like to do it.
Marko
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Tossing in some updates...because "why not". ;)
Re: casting non critical airgun parts...do-able. :) CNC cut foam patterns w/ a dip coating of thinned drywall mud serving as shell. Dried and buried/vibrated in un bonded sand. Lost foam process.
(https://i.imgur.com/Tew7czcl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FCdqUshl.jpg)
Valve stem for an SA6/44 from scratch. This project convinced me I needed collets...should have got them long ago..make working with small diameters SO much easier and more accurate. Went with ER32 if it matters.
(https://i.imgur.com/iHXwapNl.jpg)
In progress upgrades for my desktop engraver/cnc...working towards desktop MILL...from castings of course.;)
(https://i.imgur.com/ExQTRrzl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jlZpwrXl.jpg)
360w brushless spindle to replace the factory 60w spindle
(https://i.imgur.com/8WX2GuHl.jpg)
500w ER11 spindle...just in case. This will handle light cuts in aluminum.
(https://i.imgur.com/fhx3sFsl.jpg)
Stock adapters. One for a wire stock, one for mil spec buffer tube.
(https://i.imgur.com/YXvKIIOl.jpg)
Mold cherry...cutter deflection was an issue, more thought required.
(https://i.imgur.com/8n24FxAl.jpg)
Some QB valves...Motorhead posted an aluminum poppet head, so I had to try that out. Way faster and easier than turning a one piece poppet from stainless. Great idea.
(http://i.imgur.com/Oy2cdlOl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/Oy2cdlO)
Rsterne designed 22xx valve extensions.
(https://i.imgur.com/AbRF2Mwl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ip2BT3Pl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/ip2BT3P)
Need to make a couple more ssg's...
(https://i.imgur.com/NX525rll.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VdgvR1yl.jpg)
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You've been busy, lad!.... Shop time is great, wish I had some right now.... Nursing my best friend back to health after knee surgery....
(https://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Molly%20Knee%20Surgery%20Email_zpslpeodguc.jpg) (https://s378.photobucket.com/user/rsterne/media/Molly%20Knee%20Surgery%20Email_zpslpeodguc.jpg.html)
:'(
Bob
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There is no better quality time than time spent with a loyal friend. 8)
Wishing Molly a speedy and complete recovery.
Al
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nice AL . I just got done converting my 6040 cnc to linear rails , steel table, flood coolant and so on .. Ive drilled and tapped more holes in 2 weeks than ever before in my life..Next time , Id make a "form box " , fill it with concrete or epoxy resin and start from there.. The rigidity i gained looks good thus far, but ill never mod an existing platform again ( i likely could have built from scratch quicker.
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Nice! You need to put up a pic or two. 8)
I was considering concrete or epoxy granite for the base, but have no way to do the machining in house. I did find a pawn shop table saw with a nice cast iron top though. Surprising how little a fellow has to pay once you point out how useless a table saw is without a fence to go along with it. ;)
Got a spare motor out of it too. ;D
And yeah...lots of drilling and tapping. No DRO on the mill, so all the holes were located by edge finder and dial...was a bit bug eyed when I finished for the day. (whine...snivel...whine lol )
Al
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its almost done.. ( 95 % ) ill post a pic but it looks like a mess right now.
Im now drilling and tapping the 30 holes required to secure my aluminum plate to the steel table beams.. I like the top being alum so i can run gcode and simply make a recess for the vice to go in .. To some degree , this assures the vice is trammed in one axis ( or at least sitting flat )
I have a dro on my mill all 3 axis , But it didnt help when it came time to hand tap dozens and dozens of m4 holes.. Were it a bigger thread id have power tapped it.
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well it looks worse than i thought.. Oh well , i got a few more days of work to go.. the gantry needs to be filled with sand , the table needs to get finished and cut , goota diagnose the spindle flow issue , the collection table needs to be tested, i started spot drilling the left side in the pic , maybe im more like 80%
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49540639466_bdb3404050_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2itJJ9j)20200215_194922_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2itJJ9j) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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someone is gonna say " you reduced the work area/ travel "
I know. I dont do large engravings, or anything similar.. so i figured, 10"x by 10"y by 5 z will cover all my needs.. im gonna try my micro flycutter again also. I know it ran poorly before the coversion
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Good stuff. :) Far better starting point than my 3018...and further along as well.
As to cut volume...it only has to work for you...and you know what you need better than anyone else.
Not a huge fan of drill press vises for milling work, but I'm also familiar with "run with what ya got" (BTDT)...also...see above. ;) Most of what I do will be secured with painters tape and either super glue or foam safe spray adhesive.
Have a good bit of work to do on my gantry yet, but it should come together quick enough once the bearings get here. As the "bed" will be the next big job, I'm interested to know how well yours works out...please post updates on the project as available. :)
Al
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yea, i thought about a regular mill vice ( have one on my milling machine ) but this offered some interesting flexibilty with the tilting feature.. I could actually machine the the vice on the Mill to pretty decent parallelism as the fixed jaw is truly " fixed ".. We shall see. Im not set on using it yet.. I think my parallels will be too short .
As for the bed, go overkill.. Ive been through several variations before this,.. the 1/2 inch box steel with the aluminum plate on top has almost No flex .. this machine is odd in the sense you need to span 30 inches with No center support.. Ideally , a 30 by 19 1 inch thick piece of steel would be there , but thats 250 bux I dont feel like spending ( yes i looked into it
Really , when it comes to the table , it simply has to be stronger than the gantry or steppers will ever be,. Ive had the machine for over a year and had this in my mind for a while/. I also think with these spindle speeds, and a decent removal rate, you need flood coolant.. The difference is night and day.. The reason i say that is simple, these chinese spindles have no torque under 10k rpm , above that ur humming along but dont have the rapids to to get the cutter out of dodge in time , So the compromise when cutting aluminum is flood coolant . We will see, im no expert , i just know what i didnt like about the machine , and im changing those things.. It will never be as rigid as my milling machine , but getting it to the point where i can use the 2hp is the goal. Ill update when i actually cut something useful with it. (-'
The 3018 might be a better platform to start with , less distances to span.. Looking back on mine , Id have made it a fixed gantry , and change the Y to a moving table on 2 20mm linear rails ( use same ballscrew /ballnut etc.
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Oh my, how have I missed this?
Al the cast parts look awesome! Just what I was planning to do as well. Got my 450gram crucible already delivered from the friendly China people.
Valves look good also.
Boys putting together cnc gantry machines, will be interesting times for sure.
Nice build you have going Rob!
Marko
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Rob, can I make a suggestion on the side plates?
You can make the structure more rigid by bolting a scuare block in the middle of the side plate and running allthread from the ends of the plate through the block and slightly preloading the rods.
Something like this quick sketch.
(https://img.aijaa.com/m/00655/14797784.jpg) (https://aijaa.com/2iMAST)
Because that is now the most flexible part of your machine.
Marko
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i see the line.. Are you referring to the bed, or the uprights for the gantry ??
I think I see what you mean now , put some preload on the gantry uprights.. I have some 1/2 inch all thread..hmm.
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The gantry uprights, not the most elaborate drawing from me. ;D
You will eliminate alot of side to side moving from the gantry plates. The plates look about 12mm?
I did a thicker side plate modification to one old plasma cutter from 12 to 20mm at the university and it reduced vibration from the frame. And that was just plasma, not to mention you are milling with yours.
Marko
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makes perfect sense, and agreed.. theyre 15.5 mm, which isnt horrible but theyre some kinda cast chinese aluminum ( chinesium i think
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Thank you Marko. Lots of projects going on, and a few have been ongoing for some time now. 450gram seems small, but I'm melting 4-ish kg of aluminum at a crack...need quite a bit of extra metal for pouring basin, sprue, runners and risers.
Rob...big steel is spendy huh? ;D Did you check into getting it surfaced too? I did...that's why I bought an old Rockwell table saw at the pawn shop...cast iron AND surfaced. (ok..not ground, but good enough for me) Fixed gantry made it a viable option. Still need to make something for the work table, but have a couple ideas for that.
20mm rails would be overkill to the nth degree. I'm good with overkill, but a fellow could use the money elsewhere.
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agreed.. yea, the giant slab of steel could be surfaced by the ,machine itself while installed. Woodworkers surface their spoil boards with large router bits that look like face mills ( not saying woodwork requires the accuracy of machining ).. but thats If the machine could mill steel well and it cant . The large box steel gantry i was able to fit on my mill table ,but the table for the cnc wouldnt fit so id need to outsource $$
i just milled a shallow 8 by 8 box section for the vice to sit in , not happy with surface finish at all , so i know my Z axis needs some tweaks. For some reason i was all home runs building my X , but when i finally got to Z i was Mr shortcut
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I was thinking about it when I was typing but it didn't ring any bells. Yeah 4.5kg crucible. Had to check what I had ordered.
They had 1-9kg available and I took the middle of the size.
Rob, just use a fly cutter and very slow feeds, 20-40% stepover of the radius. It'll be fine for most of the setups.
Remember to use some kind of steady cooling like mist or flood.
Heavy fly cutter wont chatter as easy but your spindle needs to be mounted firmly.
Marko
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Yeah 4.5kg crucible. Had to check what I had ordered.
See how complicated that blasted metric system is!!! No one ever confuses lbs and ounces...;D
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Naah, nothing wrong with the system, it's just my memory. ;D
Take four different imperial measurements with fractions and try to add them up. Even you folks accustomed to that will be having hard time with it. ;)
Marko
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ran a dimensional accuracy test today.. half inch hole and 1 inch square ( my y offset was wrong , doesnt matter for this )
the x was 1.011 and and the hole was .504 .. so about the same innacuracy in both axis.. gonna dial things in mach 3 see if i can get better
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49548052678_37b5aa8b11_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuoHQj)20200217_103639_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2iuoHQj) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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the bottom of the inner hole was rough , but finishing pass in f360 might help that.. this was run with easel , which has few options for cutting direction and finishing passes.
Overall , im pretty happy.. filled the gantry steel beam with sand today , much quieter , less vibration.. got a lot of things to " button up " but i think the machine is finally where it should have been from the factory (-'
another angle on the pocket
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49548806292_0b9ec9499b_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuszRE)20200217_102516_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2iuszRE) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
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You need to check the pulses per unit of movement.
Run the axis something like 100mm and check the accuracy of the movement.
Then calculate the demanded pulses and see did you over or undershoot the distance.
After that you have pulses for that given movement and you can calculate the compensation for the axis movement.
Marko
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thanks.. Mach 3 actually has this integrated.. it counts the steps per distance.. and does the math for you. So you tell it to jog 20mm, then enter the actual distance it jogged.. It then asks to confirm , then does the adjustment.
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Too easy ;)
The roughness from cutting the chips inside the pocket and not evacuating them with coolant or air. At least that's what it looks like to me.
Marko
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makes perfect sense.. This result still blows the stock setup out of the water. complete night and day. My ramp in and plunge rate can all be played with and try to do better... Now to actually make something useful (-'
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Yeah it looks ok for the machine, have seen similar looking setups where the cutting looked like angry bulldog on angeldust had been chewing the part.
Yours look usable, and most of the times it gets the job done.
No need for pro tools for one offs.
Marko
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Now to actually make something useful (-'
I think you just did that. Like most machining projects, you need to make the tool so you can make the part.
Part one...check. :)
Waiting on part two..... ;)
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lol.. good way of looking at it.. running gcode now , same one , but after recalibrating the machine travel in x and Y .. good times. ( as long as im not tapping more holes im happy )
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now running .998 and .5015 .. so im getting closer.. I think the runout in the chinese spindle will be a limitation , but for a hobbyist machine I might do alright with a bit more tweaking .
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made a crosman barrel band today.. very simple , Im having issues with my scales in f360 so im stuck using basic cam for Now
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49557863812_9f357a1f1e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ivg1kN)20200219_101714_HDR (https://flic.kr/p/2ivg1kN) by murphyrobert9 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/56743574@N07/), on Flickr
were it done in f360 it would have chamfers, some more shape to it and so on.
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oh yea, any f360 experts here?? im importing files into fusion cam, the new version , and theyre coming up as 10 times the size .. so my 55 mm barrel band comes in at 550 mm long.. I cannot figure it out.. brought it in as an object file , an stl..
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No expert, but why aren't you drawing it in 360?
Can you post the first 10-20 lines of your gcode file?
Think you said you're running Mach3?
Al
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its simply quicker ( for me ) to make a basic part in tinkercad, and xfer it to f360.. Never got as far as getting gcode for that situation , since i realized for that file i was 10 x over on dimensions while doing the cam.. so i never posted it ..
yes im running mach 3..
the soltion is simple , draw the parts and do the cam all in f360.. because my lazy solution is no longer working on the new fusion ( it worked perfectly fine on the older f360
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Al,
Can you comment on that 360W brushless spindle? Model? how much does it weigh? I'm just getting started with a 3018 and looking at some of the options. The 500W spindle is tempting but may be too heavy.
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It's something I made using a DYS 3536 1000KV RC plane motor. Weighs 296grams with an er11 collet chuck on it vs 410grams for the stock spindle w/er11 collet chuck.
Thread that inspired it is here; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/3793-Diy-Brushless-Spindle (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/3793-Diy-Brushless-Spindle)
I agree with you regarding the 500w spindle.
Without knowing your background, would suggest getting used to the machine and software before jumping in to modding it...some folks do pretty amazing work with it.
There is a cheesebook group for the machines... https://www.facebook.com/groups/SainSmart.GenmitsuCNC/?fref=nf (https://www.facebook.com/groups/SainSmart.GenmitsuCNC/?fref=nf)
Al
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Al , now that i researched the 3018 that new gantry will be a huge upgrade.. They dont seem to sell direct spindle upgrades, and from what i gather the stock motor is a dc 775 perm magnet type motor
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Yup...a VMC it isn't lol. Was initially just to "get my feet wet" with cnc...then came the thoughts of upgrades. The changes should make a substantial improvement in surface finish and accuracy. Still going to use acme lead screws w/anti backlash nuts though...will see how much backlash I have to contend with when it's up and running.
Have seen quite a few folks mount the 500w spindle, and at least one ambitious fellow mounted an 800w trim router. Never heard if he pretzeled the frame on start up though. ::)
Al
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i think mach 3 has a backlash compensation program.. Ive never messed with it but im pretty sure its there. I decided ( in my own mind ) a few months ago not to upgrade to the 2,2kw.. The reason was, i figured if I dont have the rigidity to push the 1.5 to its limits theres no point.. Whether or not thats true , idk.. But ive seen guys mount the 1.5 Kw to an actual mill and really tear through aluminum with perfect surface finish.. Which kinda means the rigidity is the major issue on the " router class " machines. Theres one dude on youtube , appears to be in home bedroom at his parents house,.. Hes running a 3020 with crazy reinforcements all over the place and getting pretty incredible results.. Ill have to find it.
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Thank you for the info...and some reading to do.
Yes, getting a good workflow established is first priority. I did make some mods to get the noise/vibration down (thick board on the gantry and foam in places). I am looking at one of the Wen rotary tools https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=568077110 (https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=568077110) as a way to get more speed, they are fairly light weight and compact.
Thanks again
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oh yea, any f360 experts here?? im importing files into fusion cam, the new version , and theyre coming up as 10 times the size .. so my 55 mm barrel band comes in at 550 mm long.. I cannot figure it out.. brought it in as an object file , an stl..
Open it in fusion cad and resize the part, then in to cam.
Or just draw it in fusion, it's one of the easiest cad software I have ever used.
You spend one evening and you can draw basic models really fast.
Marko
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Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNsEZQbl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Also some work on a match plate. Name plates for our little Boler trailer...1969 never came with them and they're hard to find. They are going to be a challenge with the small bits in the letters. Believe the originals were die cast.
(https://i.imgur.com/fAtKfAEl.jpg)
Al
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Good looking parts Al,
Are you going to cast them name plates?
Marko
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Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNsEZQbl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Also some work on a match plate. Name plates for our little Boler trailer...1969 never came with them and they're hard to find. They are going to be a challenge with the small bits in the letters. Believe the originals were die cast.
(https://i.imgur.com/fAtKfAEl.jpg)
Al
I sense one of the creations to be mine ;D
I hope so ;D
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Hoping to cast them Marko. May end up using sodium silicate bonded sand, but hoping the petrobond will get it done. The small hollows in the "e" are where I expect the most trouble.
Rick...yup. The machine work is done, just need to get it cleaned up now.
Al
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Hoping to cast them Marko. May end up using sodium silicate bonded sand, but hoping the petrobond will get it done. The small hollows in the "e" are where I expect the most trouble.
Rick...yup. The machine work is done, just need to get it cleaned up now.
Al
Thank you, sir ;D
That offset adapter looks very nice, Mr. Al!
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That offset adapter looks very nice, Mr. Al!
I'm pretty satisfied with how it came out, just need to get it cleaned up and swapped on to the .25 covid project. 8)
Al
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nice work , is that a little castle nut i see on the drop down adapter?
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nice work , is that a little castle nut i see on the drop down adapter?
It looks like it, Mr. Rob ;D
I am quite partial to raw material.
I have a couple of adapters: RAI and JSAR for my 13xx and 22xx airguns, and I would like to have another version that is shorter, as most of my buffer tubes are in the 9" to 10" length, affording me too long an LOP, hence I ordered one from Mr. Al.
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It is a castle nut. Had to make one...AR lego is a bit harder to come by right now. ;)
Al
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Locating, drilling and tapping...and lots of it, but getting closer to the day when it moves under it's own power. :D Also had a go at casting the match plate...took three tries, but I got one half to pull pretty cleanly, so went ahead and poured it. (as expected, the "e"s are the grief spot) Not too bad. 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/KarS8I0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RuPKDAPl.jpg)
Al
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looking great Al. been running my machine almost 7 days a week since the build. what spindle will you be using ??
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Mr. Al, the AR adapter is now in the US ;D
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Rob, I will be using the 500w spindle for the most part, but will likely be wanting to mount the laser module from time to time as well. I figure there's not a lot of point messing around with the smaller spindles at this point, but may explore another brushless spindle build down the road for 30K speeds.
Richard... 8)
Al
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Al,
How much will the Z axis assembly weigh with the spindle and how did you size the stepper motors?
Looks great.
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I won't claim to have "sized" the steppers. They're 84ozin nema 17's and a bit larger than those that came on the 3018. I had them so used them.
Good question on the mass, and I hadn't given it too much thought. It's a lot lighter than the machine dad built which runs nema 23 262ozin...of course that one has ball screws.
Did weigh the parts as I thought it an interesting question...and was a bit surprised. With the 500w spindle, mount, adapter plate and required screws, the complete z axis is going to come out just a little shy of 3Kg...closing on 6.5 pounds.
Dads machine cutting a sign in cherry. He made his from castings as well. Plaques on the wall were done by dad for the Estevan model engineers show...Estevan Saskatchewan.
(https://i.imgur.com/p4Qmr2kl.jpg)
Al
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Nice work on the castings Al!
Was thinking that you said 500w spindle that its not a big machine but with 17 size steppers its going to be tiny.
Interesting to see it finished.
Marko
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well , for reference ( it may not mean much ) but with nema 23s , the cheapest lowest rated holding torque , I can bog my 1500 watt spindle before i bog the 23s.. Its close , but the steppers seem to have the advantage,. I know this is not an exact science.. But if you work backwards from feeds and speeds, you can get an idea of how much force you need to cut the work.. SO with super light cuts on a small small machine , id bet the nema 17s would do as well or better than 500 watts at the spindle maybe there is a calculator to estimate steppers needed, no clue
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Tiny is pretty accurate lol. Stock work envelope is 300 x 180mm and 45mm on the Z. New rails are 100mm on the Z and 400mm on the X. Y is undecided for now but I do have rails @ 550mm.
Al
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Tiny is pretty accurate lol. Stock work envelope is 300 x 180mm and 45mm on the Z. New rails are 100mm on the Z and 400mm on the X. Y is undecided for now but I do have rails @ 550mm.
Al
so are you going to build your own table and y rail arrrangement or will you use the 3018 basics?
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Will likely try it bolted to the 3018 Y table, but I picked up a cast iron table saw at the pawn shop to build the Y on. Heck of a deal if you've ever priced out a large, thick piece of plate...and then costed out having it surfaced. :o
Little correction as well...Z rails are 150mm.
Al
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It's not the size that matters, it's how you use it. Have seen amazing work done with tiny machines, that weight less than my machine vice.
It's a curse to have worked in a production machine shop, you get spoiled by the tools and machines. And when you want a machine for hobby use, it's too small and not rigid enough.
But to the point, always get the biggest heaviest machine you can afford and fit in your shop. With all the Z height you can get. You always run out of Z with little longer drills.
Marko
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It's a curse to have worked in a production machine shop, you get spoiled by the tools and machines. And when you want a machine for hobby use, it's too small and not rigid enough.
Marko
Not a curse at all....my time at the local machine shop was an eye opener and a great learning experience. Ran a Summit 22x120 doing all kinds of jobs. 8)
Every machine has it's strong and weak points...whether it's a 22" Summit or a little Boley watch makers lathe. Different tools for different jobs.
Al
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Well, yes it is an eye opener for sure. But seeing what can be done with a decent machine kind of spoils you away from the hobby stuff. At least it did so to me.
You can run very small parts on a big machine with high speed air spindle that mounts directly to the machine spindle taper. But you cant get 60kg slab of steel to mount on a hobby mill.
I wish I could fit a big turning center to my shop but there is no room for it. The Emco is nice but its small for anything barrel related.
The more I do stuff, the bigger parts people ask if I can do. Slowly its going towards from hobby shop to something else.
Marko
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Al, Rob,
Are the linear rails used in your upgrades just the generic online available units? Is there any cross axis or out of plane play in the bearings?
Thanks
I'm starting to lay out a strategy for some modest upgrades to my 3018. I wonder if there is any interest out there (other than myself) in a 3018 thread.
-
theres no play whatsover , even in the entry level linear rails./ some people say the blocks on the rails need some preload,which is difficult to explain but even with little to no preload theyre extremely accurate and cheap.
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Don't go with the most cheap Chinese stuff, take Hiwin rails and blocks they are good for the money.
And if you buy cheaper ballscrews take them with extra nut or with double preload nuts so you can set the preload on them.
Marko
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Cheap Chinese rails here. Free movement and no noticeable slop in any direction, BUT...I have not put an indicator on them yet.
This is the company I ordered from...reviews are good, but they did take a LONG time to get here. They were decently packaged, which was an unusual and welcome surprise. The seller included a bottle of lubricating oil for the carriages. Planning to disassemble, clean and lube the carriages on final assembly.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861278496.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.652e4c4ddClezz (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32861278496.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.652e4c4ddClezz)
Al
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one thing i will add , when attaching the sliding block of whatever to the 4 rail blocks , that part needs to be very well secured to the blocks.. NO slack in any of the 16 screws,. This also means , you need to nail down exact length of the screws , versus the counter sink , versus the depth of thread on the blocks.. This sounds simple , but it might not be and redoing it is a f----in nightmare.. Dont ask how i know .. If i were to build a second cnc , ( mod one whatever ) id be 100 times more prepared than the first time , because you really learn alot along the way
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Thanks guys,
Those Hiwin look nice but I think I'll go with the generic for the 3018 upgrade tweak.
Thanks for the warning, it doesn't look like there is a lot of thread depth on those M3's. Did you just use blue Loctite?
-
Thanks guys,
Those Hiwin look nice but I think I'll go with the generic for the 3018 upgrade tweak.
Thanks for the warning, it doesn't look like there is a lot of thread depth on those M3's. Did you just use blue Loctite?
yes.. m3-.5 threads .. yes, and no.. Im glad i did not locktite the first time , realizing all my screws were not tightened on the plates, but actually bottomed out in the linear blocks.. So on the second go around , with this knowledge i used red on almost everything.. Machines ( cheap ones not made from 1000 lb cast iron blocks ) have an internal resonance while running that seems to back off screws with ease... Havent had to fix or adjust anything in a while... I still might go back and build another Z axis , i left some Z travel out of my first design that i could have used with rearranging some parts. ( something to consider when buying materials and rails etc..
-
something else i did , on the 2nd go around.. I used the highest angle socket heads i could , with normal cylindrical counterbores and counter sinks.. This way , as the angled socket entered the holes , theyd essentially lock side to side movement completely ( in any direction), even if the through hole was lets say 3.10 for example. like these but m3-.5
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-0-70-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Head-Socket-Caps-Screws-DIN-7991-A2-Allen-Hex/111915494243?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3D5107ada870f643c68aefd372ddb2db1c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D382735832335%26itm%3D111915494243%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-0-70-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Head-Socket-Caps-Screws-DIN-7991-A2-Allen-Hex/111915494243?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3D5107ada870f643c68aefd372ddb2db1c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D382735832335%26itm%3D111915494243%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
On a block of 4 holes , theyd also fight each other creating loads in all directions..I dont know if other people do this on small machine builds or not , but in my mind it created a more rigid plate to block connection.
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Yeah, a lot of details to work through (good thing the hardware takes a while to ship). I wonder is adding a pin to the center of the pattern would take care of the shear capability while still allowing some clocking adjustment to avoiding binding over the full path. It would also reduce the torque requirement on the M3's.
Thanks
-
Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNsEZQbl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Also some work on a match plate. Name plates for our little Boler trailer...1969 never came with them and they're hard to find. They are going to be a challenge with the small bits in the letters. Believe the originals were die cast.
(https://i.imgur.com/fAtKfAEl.jpg)
Al
Got the 22xx non-offset AR adapter today, Mr. Al ;D
Looks great, sir!
It is a very tight fit in the stainless Don Cothran tube, so I had to sand it ever so slightly, but just the right tightness in the OEM Crosman 22xx tube.
-
Yeah, a lot of details to work through (good thing the hardware takes a while to ship). I wonder is adding a pin to the center of the pattern would take care of the shear capability while still allowing some clocking adjustment to avoiding binding over the full path. It would also reduce the torque requirement on the M3's.
Thanks
well as the 2 rails are installed, they need to be truly parallel.. When i spoke about preload earlier, and how some suggest it , that is binding.. theres tension in the plate connection between blocks on rail A and rail B , pushing either outward or inward ever so slightly.. So as youre tighting the set screws like a changing a car tire, there si some preload in all directions between the blocks on A and B , and the plate being connected to them ( if that makes any sense )
its not a bad binding where the carriage wont move, its just a Solid one piece theory where the 4 blocks and the plate are truly acting as ONE in any direction imaginable
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Got the 22xx non-offset AR adapter today, Mr. Al ;D
Looks great, sir!
It is a very tight fit in the stainless Don Cothran tube, so I had to sand it ever so slightly, but just the right tightness in the OEM Crosman 22xx tube.
Good to hear that it arrived. Hope you enjoy it. :)
Al
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Very well made. G sir ;D
I love the close tolerance fit
The RAI and JSAR adapters do have a play but I wrapped the sections that go into the tube with tape.
If I don't, there is a bit of droop, and my eye is super sharp when it comes to these things ;D
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Rob,
Thanks. I've got a lot to think through on the tolerancing/alignment/tightening sequence of both the blocks and the rails.
Al, sorry for side tracking your thread.
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Not sidetracked IMO...if that counts for anything lol.
I would use the standard cap screws so you can more easily get things aligned...just a little more forgiving. Once things are aligned, that's when you drill and ream for alignment pins or drill/tap for locating screws.
On this...I'm not worried about the nema 17's overcoming the clamping force of the fasteners, and not going to bother with dowel pins. You've got a 3018, and understand just how janky it really is...yet it doesn't have the power to hurt itself.
Al
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I have the so called pro version with the 2040 base and the plastic side panels. I was surprised how much the assembly rang when you cut anything with the spindle. I quickly put a 3/4" particle board shear panel on the back of the top 2020's. While not as stiff as aluminum, the particle board has higher damping, the section thickness eliminated vibration in the 2020's and as a shear panel, it reduced concerns of flex in the plastic uprights. I also mounted a thin (due to Z limits) plywood scrap board to the XY plate. The stock plate is soft in the Y direction and rang. So now the machine is quieter and the X axis rods are the next soft point.
In thinking about the linear rail installation, I'm thinking one of the X rails wants to get mounted, aligned parallel to the XY surface, perhaps using a gage block, and tightened. Then soft mount the other X rail and the Z plate to set X rail spacing. After that slowly tighten everything while working over the X travel. Still TBD on what pin or shear feature to use. Good thing the hardware will take a while to get here, lots to work out.
In your system, with the larger steppers, did you change out the control board or the stepper drivers?
Thanks
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Sounds about right.
I have a few board options here, but am thinking re-use the Chronosmaker board from the 3018...an HC-06 bluetooth module plugs right in and I run my code from a tablet. The drivers are swappable on this board, and I do have some 8825's that will take 2.5A.
As alternatives, I have another Cronos board w/bluetooth (ordered as a spare) and an Uno w/v3 shield.
Al
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Cronosmaker.....hmmmm.....great, now I have another online toy store to work my way through.
Thanks
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000595321641.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25864484coKJky&algo_pvid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed&algo_expid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed-4&btsid=0ab50f4415869822293488629e41bf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000595321641.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25864484coKJky&algo_pvid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed&algo_expid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed-4&btsid=0ab50f4415869822293488629e41bf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32974092550.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25864484coKJky&algo_pvid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed&algo_expid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed-33&btsid=0ab50f4415869822293488629e41bf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32974092550.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.25864484coKJky&algo_pvid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed&algo_expid=4c0d4d24-adb2-4a86-b417-17f3c082e1ed-33&btsid=0ab50f4415869822293488629e41bf&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_)
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Al, Hi. I'm looking for an AR buffer tube adapter for a 1322.
I will try to get in touch with you - I am in Massachusettts.
Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Al
Got the 22xx non-offset AR adapter today, Mr. Al ;D
Looks great, sir!
It is a very tight fit in the stainless Don Cothran tube, so I had to sand it ever so slightly, but just the right tightness in the OEM Crosman 22xx tube.
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Al, Hi. I'm looking for an AR buffer tube adapter for a 1322.
I will try to get in touch with you - I am in Massachusettts.
Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Al
Got the 22xx non-offset AR adapter today, Mr. Al ;D
Looks great, sir!
It is a very tight fit in the stainless Don Cothran tube, so I had to sand it ever so slightly, but just the right tightness in the OEM Crosman 22xx tube.
Mr. G, showed me a photo of the PROD/22×× hybrid offset AR adapter today!
As usual, they look great!
Excited to get mine but it will be a while because he is still busy with more pressing matters ;D
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AL , any news on the cast gantry 3018?
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Thank you Rick. I think they're coming out nicely too. ;)
Rob, not a lot of progress on it. I have the large castings for the work table done, one roughed out and the other ready to go on the "big" mill when time allows. Looking forward to getting it done so I can play with it some over the winter.
Al
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Cleaning up some little jobs, FTP for 13xx, 22xx/disco fill in stainless and a couple 22xx stock mounts in 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/sNsEZQbl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltvUXL3l.jpg)
Also some work on a match plate. Name plates for our little Boler trailer...1969 never came with them and they're hard to find. They are going to be a challenge with the small bits in the letters. Believe the originals were die cast.
(https://i.imgur.com/fAtKfAEl.jpg)
Al
Al, what stock is in your pic. I like the cheek rest.
Thanks
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001462672968.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7210750fIi1ilq&algo_pvid=11452028-2159-4bc9-b843-3926bf017e6e&algo_expid=11452028-2159-4bc9-b843-3926bf017e6e-5&btsid=0bb0623616022719450735178ed0b2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001462672968.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7210750fIi1ilq&algo_pvid=11452028-2159-4bc9-b843-3926bf017e6e&algo_expid=11452028-2159-4bc9-b843-3926bf017e6e-5&btsid=0bb0623616022719450735178ed0b2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_)
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Thanks, Al, I just might grab one of those, especially if I can find a cheap buffer tube to go with it....
Bob
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Wow, those pieces looks beautiful...great job.
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Mine is on the way ;D
Swell machining by Senor Al ;D
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Beautiful job, as always, Al.... Merry Christmas....
Bob
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Beautiful job, as always, Al.... Merry Christmas....
Bob
He does bring a smile to my face, Mr. Bob ;D
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Kind words, thanks guys. 8)
Will see how the spacing on the 4-40's matches up then finish the rest of the run.
Merry Christmas. :-)
Al
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Kind words, thanks guys. 8)
Will see how the spacing on the 4-40's matches up then finish the rest of the run.
Merry Christmas. :-)
Al
Since it is a hybrid and built for both the 22xx and 17xx formats I have no worries, Senor Al ;D
A 13xx barrel band of the same material is what I am watching out for, sir ;D
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I have been working on the fixtures for that Rick...and the design. Still a work in progress, but "proving" the fixtures this morning resulted in a rough prototype/teaser. ;) Thinking I'll end up using a grub screw on either side to secure the band to the tube plug...similar to an older qb band.
We never discussed whether you were looking for something with or without a front sight.
(https://i.imgur.com/l5o71eRl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iqMkSSXl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/iqMkSSX)
Al
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I have been working on the fixtures for that Rick...and the design. Still a work in progress, but "proving" the fixtures this morning resulted in a rough prototype/teaser. ;) Thinking I'll end up using a grub screw on either side to secure the band to the tube plug...similar to an older qb band.
We never discussed whether you were looking for something with or without a front sight.
(https://i.imgur.com/l5o71eRl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iqMkSSXl.jpg) (https://imgur.com/iqMkSSX)
Al
Aha!
What a beauty (https://i.imgur.com/SDoY5db.gif)
Yes, 2 extra holes near the cross pin (aka Mr. Gary/Wyoman mod) would make it more structurally stable, Mr. Al (https://i.imgur.com/X7byqwc.gif)
Also a tapped and threaded hole to secure the barrel upwards like the Blue Fork/Chavka barrel bands.
I am not a big fan of front sights, sir!
Looks cleaner, IMHO (https://i.imgur.com/xlcflD8.gif)
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I have 2 of Mr. G's AR adapters, the 2nd one is still in transit and may take a few more weeks to arrive, and I can say that he does my bien machining (https://i.imgur.com/lOqZxKa.gif)
Beautiful finish with very tight tolerances it fits like a virgin---always feels like the very 1st time when I fit it in (https://i.imgur.com/xlcflD8.gif)
Mr. G, does your creation double as a plug as well as a barrel band?
It appears to be that way, which is ingenious, as one might choose to free-float the barrel (https://i.imgur.com/Pmk5vuS.gif)
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Hi Rick,
It should have arrived by now. The tracking number shows Edmonton as the last scan on Dec 24th. I'm not sure they will be open today (may have to wait until Monday) but I will contact customer service and see what can be done. Either way, I'll look after you.
Regarding the fit....all I have is ;) lol
The band is two piece, so you could use the one piece as a tube plug if you wished to. It does not have the "step" up to the tube od that purpose built plugs have though...so would not be quite as appealing to the eye....IMO.
Regards,
Al
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Yes, Mr. G., I see your point regarding the plug's "undercut" ;D
Don't worry too much about the adapter, sir, as all couriers seem to be in the same dilemma.
She is on her way to Papa Rick for some lovin' ;D
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Mr. G, she is now here in Abq. 🤓
I have about 4 items I am expecting, the most expensive being almost $400 (a fully-adjustable rimfire Minelli stock), but this freakin’ AR adapter is which excites me the most 😝
The Cerakoted grey Guntec Minimalist AR stock for it is now out for delivery, btw 😝
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Soon then. 8)
Interesting stock, look forward to seeing it all assembled. :D
Al
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Danke, Senor ;D
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What a beautiful presentation:
(https://i.imgur.com/K1nDg20.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FftGzrP.jpg)
The plastic wrap was actually hermitically sealed ;D
Fit is excellent for both 17xx and 22xx tubes:
(https://i.imgur.com/hVz1xFx.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/yWcDRMr.jpg?1)
This thing is zero wobble and uber solid (https://i.imgur.com/X7byqwc.gif)
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Thanks Rick. :)
Seems the fellows who did the measuring deserve some kudos and thanks....THANK YOU guys! 8)
And since it fits...I'd better start whipping the elves, they've a batch of these and Gen1 marauder adapters to get finished. ;)
Regards,
Al
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Thanks Rick. :)
Seems the fellows who did the measuring deserve some kudos and thanks....THANK YOU guys! 8)
And since it fits...I'd better start whipping the elves, they've a batch of these and Gen1 marauder adapters to get finished. ;)
Regards,
Al
Here is another photo, Mr. G ;D
-
(https://i.imgur.com/75OaQSz.jpg?1)
One of the ugliest builds Rick baby has (https://i.imgur.com/SDoY5db.gif)
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You have an odd definition for "ugly" Rick lol...looks pretty good to me!
Mind sharing where that AR pistol grip came from? Very sharp looking. 8)
Al
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That is a BlueFork and Boyd's AR grip combo, Mr. Al.
Have not installed the components for the BF trigger yet.
Got the silver Cerakoted parts a few days ago.
Had to leave behind the 17xx breech and the shroud cap, as they had minor flaws ;D
The Cerakote applicator was kind of irritated, lol!
-
(https://i.imgur.com/75OaQSz.jpg?1)
One of the ugliest builds Rick baby has (https://i.imgur.com/SDoY5db.gif)
dam u take your 22xx legos very seriously , that looks awesome .
-
(https://i.imgur.com/75OaQSz.jpg?1)
One of the ugliest builds Rick baby has (https://i.imgur.com/SDoY5db.gif)
dam u take your 22xx legos very seriously , that looks awesome .
Thank you, Mr. Rob ;D
It is a PROD with a 1701P tube ;D
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Things have let up a little, and clearing out a backlog of projects to make room for new ones. :)
Adjustable links for a J-26 3pth used on vintage Case garden tractors. Originals are 1018, these are 4140.
(https://i.imgur.com/dwtqEKLl.jpg)
Ends for a replacement reservoir.
(https://i.imgur.com/T5qI5Ebl.jpg)
Two tubes using the same ends...rifle or pistol.
(https://i.imgur.com/e2f0Vf1l.jpg)
Some adapters sanded and nearly ready. Just need to finish a few power adjusters.
(https://i.imgur.com/ixOJFHDl.jpg)
Made an extra for the old 2289. Nice and solid and while it does hit the web of my hand on top, it's still a little more comfy for me than the 1399 stock. Thinking I'll make them a little bit longer if I do another run.
(https://i.imgur.com/z2sjCtDl.jpg)
Al
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Aha!
I need 2 AR offset adapters, Mr. Al! ;D
What are those big ones for? ;D
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Works of art!
I wouldn't mind having one of those offset adapters if they're not all spoken for.
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Works of art!
I wouldn't mind having one of those offset adapters if they're not all spoken for.
One of it is mine (22xx/17xx), but I am willing to not get 2 if you want one, sir ;D
Are my eyes fooling me or is there really an extra offset one for the 13xx, Mr. Al? ;D
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Works of art!
I wouldn't mind having one of those offset adapters if they're not all spoken for.
One of it is mine (22xx/17xx), but I am willing to not get 2 if you want one, sir ;D
Are my eyes fooling me or is there really an extra offset one for the 13xx, Mr. Al? ;D
Very generous of you, but if they're all taken I'll wait incase he ever does another batch.
Beautiful build you have there!
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Works of art!
I wouldn't mind having one of those offset adapters if they're not all spoken for.
One of it is mine (22xx/17xx), but I am willing to not get 2 if you want one, sir ;D
Are my eyes fooling me or is there really an extra offset one for the 13xx, Mr. Al? ;D
Very generous of you, but if they're all taken I'll wait incase he ever does another batch.
Beautiful build you have there!
Gracias! ;D
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Big ones are for Marauder. Two on the left for Gen 1 the one on the right for Gen 2 with a pistol grip I think...done to a drawing.
Have three that will fit 22xx all with power adjusters. 2 of those fit 22xx and 1701/Prod. The 22xx one has the remains of a 4-40 tap that comes with it. I won't even charge extra for the broken tap! (actually will be sold as a "blem" for a little discount) ;)
A single "straight" non power adjuster for 13xx. (spoken for)
A single offset, non power adjuster for 13xx. (I think that's what you wanted Rick?)
A single offset, with power adjuster for 13xx. Made two, keeping one for the 2289.
Al
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Big ones are for Marauder. Two on the left for Gen 1 the one on the right for Gen 2 with a pistol grip I think...done to a drawing.
Have three that will fit 22xx all with power adjusters. 2 of those fit 22xx and 1701/Prod. The 22xx one has the remains of a 4-40 tap that comes with it. I won't even charge extra for the broken tap! (actually will be sold as a "blem" for a little discount) ;)
A single "straight" non power adjuster for 13xx. (spoken for)
A single offset, non power adjuster for 13xx. (I think that's what you wanted Rick?)
A single offset, with power adjuster for 13xx. Made two, keeping one for the 2289.
Al
One 13xx offset with or w/o PA, Mr. Al ;D
One 22xx/17xx hybrid offset too!----I would like to have 2 of these, but someone might want one too ;D
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Heyyy those are some nice cylinders ;)
-
Heyyy those are some nice cylinders ;)
Mr. Al does fine machining ;D
Love his work!
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Thanks guys. :)
Something about freshly turned brass that just appeals. 8) Oring groove on the end would be preferable, but there was a pesky pre existing air passage in the way.
(https://i.imgur.com/k7rLrMHl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oyqTf6gl.jpg)
Al
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Yes, brass is very appealing ;D
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Done, Mr. Al ;D
Thank you and looking forward to receiving the trio soon ;D
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AL, that tube looks like it connects to a 2240 valve
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13xx. As I understand things...fellow bought a bulk co2 pistol that someone built to use CP2 reservoirs but the seller kept the reservoirs as they are hard to find. Existing adapter was modified to increase thread engagement...original is for co2 pressures and it will now function at pcp pressures.
Al
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awesome..and yes i should have caught the fact the little screw hole is on the front end of the 13xx , but on the back end of the 22xx valve ;)
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4130 tubes. 13xx, custom 140 and proofing/hydrotesting a couple.
(https://i.imgur.com/4GLMz3Jl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ylThMu7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WYv28F1l.jpg)
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nice , whats the build ?? what are you using to get to 5000 psi?? hydraulics, a booster , both ?
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The 13xx tube is for myself...collecting/making parts to re-do the 2289. The 140 and pcp tubes are for another fellow.
Nothing fancy on the pressure end, it's a 10ton hydraulic porta power pump. Maxes out @8000psi.
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nice..
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Nice Al,
How much did the length of the tube change on full pressure?
They stretch quite alot and still return to original length.
I usually chuck the tube on one end plug and put a dial indicator to the other end.
Marko
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Mr. Al, how is the 13xx barrel band faring?
Waiting for an extra one ;D
Oh, the 3 AR offset adapters are now in BC, Canada for international shipping.
I hope USA Customs don’t fondle them too long ;D
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Hi Marco,
Would be interesting to try that if only just for kicks, but will need a different setup. Did you make up some hard piping or just run a hose through the spindle?
Rick,
It's in the works, but will be a little while yet. ;)
You'll get them soon I hope. :)
Al
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Just chucked the tube on my rotary axis on the mill from the valve block. I use 1200bar rated hose for the connection.
Its interesting to se how far you can stretch the tube before permanent deformation starts.
My pump goes to 850bar and it was not enough to have permanent deformation on the tubes I tested.
Marko
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Hi Marco,
Would be interesting to try that if only just for kicks, but will need a different setup. Did you make up some hard piping or just run a hose through the spindle?
Rick,
It's in the works, but will be a little while yet. ;)
You'll get them soon I hope. :)
Al
Make haste, Mr. Al!
Just kidding ;D
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My package from Canada is here.
It arrived so fast!
Excellent packaging by Mr. Al, as usual:
(https://i.imgur.com/keruAgz.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dyl0bOo.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/lUjPXwi.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/LRF6gND.jpg?1)
It felt like I was unpacking plutonium, so I had to turn on some super suspenseful music ;D
All three adapters are sealed hermitically, ha!
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Always good to hear things arrive intact. :) The parts are oiled and sealed in the event the package gets wet in transit...can't have things showing up rusty. ;)
Thank you Rick.
Al
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Yes, lubed and ready, Mr. Al ;D
Another fabulous machining, sir!
Gracias ;D
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Gents, if you ever get one of Mr. Al's AR adapters don't sand the portion that goes into the tube.
Mine have all been a very tight fit, but I have noticed that Crosman/Benjamin tubes differ in their internal diameters by a few thousandths of an inch, so I just hone them with sandpaper in lieu of doing the AR adapters.
The offset 13xx AR adapter, because of the smaller 13xx diameter tube, positions itself closer to the metacarpal section of my thumb, but it does not hit it when I grip the AG.
I actually prefer it because of its shorter size (about an inch shorter) because I use fixed-type Aero Precision (they exude quality with a gloss anodizing) 10" AR A2 buffer tubes.
The LOP is perfect now unlike before when I was still using my longish 13xx RAI AR adapter.
The RAI AR adapter works well with retractable AR15 buffer tubes though ;D
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Thank you for bringing this to my attention Rick. All feedback is good. :)
Was it much sanding to get the fit you wanted? I do shoot for a snug fit, but maybe too much of a good thing is no longer good.
In your opinion, could I stand to loosen the fit by a couple thousandths and still have them acceptably snug in Crosmans looser tubes?
Thank you,
Al
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Thank you for bringing this to my attention Rick. All feedback is good. :)
Was it much sanding to get the fit you wanted? I do shoot for a snug fit, but maybe too much of a good thing is no longer good.
In your opinion, could I stand to loosen the fit by a couple thousandths and still have them acceptably snug in Crosmans looser tubes?
Thank you,
Al
Mr. Al, just leave the tolerance as is---for me, they are perfect, sir!
I have one tube (2400KT) that is just snug and I did not even to have to sand it.
I did not do judicious sanding on my tubes, btw, except for my stainless Don Cothran ones ;D
Yes, it is best that I emphasize my use of stainless Don Cothran tubes, as they are a smidgen more close tolerance than the Crosman/Benjamin ones!
The 13xx AR adapter was very tight but I did not sand the tube--made several rotations and it is perfect now, ha!
I like the clicking sound when I mate the 2 parts together ;D
Now, who wants to buy my RAI 13xx AR adapter?
Lol!
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I like the clicking sound when I mate the 2 parts together ;D
So long as it's not being much of a nuisance, I'll leave well enough alone. Thanks. :)
I call that sound a "snick"...love it when machined parts "snick" together. ;D
Al
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I like the clicking sound when I mate the 2 parts together ;D
So long as it's not being much of a nuisance, I'll leave well enough alone. Thanks. :)
I call that sound a "snick"...love it when machined parts "snick" together. ;D
Al
Exactly, Senor Al ;D
I keep sneaking inside my play room to take a look at my installed adapters from you, lol!
They look so nice and sexy, yo!
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Here's the short cylinder mounted up to my 1322 PCP target pistol. Beauty fit and holy man is it heavy now ;D
Al does nice work. Very skilled and thorough. Didn't even ask for a hydrotest but he did it anyway.
Thanks again Al.
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Here's the short cylinder mounted up to my 1322 PCP target pistol. Beauty fit and holy man is it heavy now ;D
Al does nice work. Very skilled and thorough. Didn't even ask for a hydrotest but he did it anyway.
Thanks again Al.
Looks great!
I have no idea how that tube is attached though ;D
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Thanks Al. On the heavy side for sure, but the burning question is...How does it shoot? 8)
Rick, it threads together and directly into the valve using the brass pieces posted earlier.
Al
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Yep, it just threads on.
I can use the same offset adapter to put all the pieces together so there's a longer tube, convert to a carbine.
It does shoot good. Without modifying anything it doesn't change much from 1000 to 2000 psi. Consistent, only need to tune it... It'll look a lot prettier once I polish and blue it up. I did the long tube, it turned out alright.
Been too busy mucking with Springer pistons. Trust me, long list of unfinished projects!
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Our offset 13xx AR adapter looks cute, IMHO, Mr. Al ;D
Steve Corcoran forearm, Vernon Austin grips, Don Cothran hardware, and your parts, sir ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/y6IZApR.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/UfE0NNz.jpg?1)
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Some very sweet looking builds you have going on there Rick! 8)
Thank you for sharing them.
Al
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Some very sweet looking builds you have going on there Rick! 8)
Thank you for sharing them.
Al
Thanks, Mr. Al.
You know me—-I don’t settle for anything less ;D
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Very good looking stuff!
Marko
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Very good looking stuff!
Marko
Thank you, Mr. Marko ;D
Still waiting for Mr. Al to finish his 13xx barrel band project ;D
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Very good looking stuff!
Marko
Thank you, Mr. Marko ;D
Still waiting for Mr. Al to finish his 13xx barrel band project ;D
Still waiting ;D
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You are an extremely patient fellow Rick. There's not been much in the way of chip making going on of late, I kind of miss it too.
Best wishes for the new year,
Al
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Here's the short cylinder mounted up to my 1322 PCP target pistol. Beauty fit and holy man is it heavy now ;D
Al does nice work. Very skilled and thorough. Didn't even ask for a hydrotest but he did it anyway.
Thanks again Al.
I've almost forgotten about this FAT TUBE build
I really like it ;D
A PROD or 17xx gun would look nice having this set-up :-*
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You are an extremely patient fellow Rick. There's not been much in the way of chip making going on of late, I kind of miss it too.
Best wishes for the new year,
Al
New Year is fast approaching again, Mr. G ;D
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Here's the short cylinder mounted up to my 1322 PCP target pistol. Beauty fit and holy man is it heavy now ;D
Al does nice work. Very skilled and thorough. Didn't even ask for a hydrotest but he did it anyway.
Thanks again Al.
I've almost forgotten about this FAT TUBE build
I really like it ;D
A PROD or 17xx gun would look nice having this set-up :-*
What is the OD of the fat tube, Mr. G?
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Your timing is impeccable as ever Rick. :)
After more 12hr shifts than I care to think about...we are going back to 8's for "a while". Caught up with instrument work too for now.
Thoughts of "c's 'n 6's) (chips ;) ) have been much on my mind of late. Been thinking about something along the lines of the Hipac/Safepac...but a little different...so it's interesting that you bring up the "fat" tube. Fat tube is not quite what I "was" thinking...but I'm thinking about it now lol. ;)
The tube in question is 1.25" od x .094" wall 4130...the same size if not necessarily the same material as the Marauder tube.
Were you thinking about a large tube stepping down like this one on ebay, or a larger tube with matching internals?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154764427868?hash=item2408adc25c:g:ObkAAOSwhzhhxYqb&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAypxKvMx2rSQcLvI4MTjtQa3gD%2BUweTLnN5%2FoN%2FYz7gKdTd7Pqgz6Gxl%2BiwYZECeQCZ6RLjKMsxGewh1CvlyTvr46U31ho%2Fn87KZWI4pg7riyrvCt7zCIUb64mmKHB51V1Paf73XKDf6oL%2FG9rZNfS2OiDoBimaNMUSWN%2FkbceHx9r3c80iWv7skiZILpRtFCqFDl2cFHLA13mLZPWAADw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77g3LurYQ (https://www.ebay.com/itm/154764427868?hash=item2408adc25c:g:ObkAAOSwhzhhxYqb&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAypxKvMx2rSQcLvI4MTjtQa3gD%2BUweTLnN5%2FoN%2FYz7gKdTd7Pqgz6Gxl%2BiwYZECeQCZ6RLjKMsxGewh1CvlyTvr46U31ho%2Fn87KZWI4pg7riyrvCt7zCIUb64mmKHB51V1Paf73XKDf6oL%2FG9rZNfS2OiDoBimaNMUSWN%2FkbceHx9r3c80iWv7skiZILpRtFCqFDl2cFHLA13mLZPWAADw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77g3LurYQ)
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Your timing is impeccable as ever Rick. :)
After more 12hr shifts than I care to think about...we are going back to 8's for "a while". Caught up with instrument work too for now.
Thoughts of "c's 'n 6's) (chips ;) ) have been much on my mind of late. Been thinking about something along the lines of the Hipac/Safepac...but a little different...so it's interesting that you bring up the "fat" tube. Fat tube is not quite what I "was" thinking...but I'm thinking about it now lol. ;)
The tube in question is 1.25" od x .094" wall 4130...the same size if not necessarily the same material as the Marauder tube.
Were you thinking about a large tube stepping down like this one on ebay, or a larger tube with matching internals?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154764427868?hash=item2408adc25c:g:ObkAAOSwhzhhxYqb&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAypxKvMx2rSQcLvI4MTjtQa3gD%2BUweTLnN5%2FoN%2FYz7gKdTd7Pqgz6Gxl%2BiwYZECeQCZ6RLjKMsxGewh1CvlyTvr46U31ho%2Fn87KZWI4pg7riyrvCt7zCIUb64mmKHB51V1Paf73XKDf6oL%2FG9rZNfS2OiDoBimaNMUSWN%2FkbceHx9r3c80iWv7skiZILpRtFCqFDl2cFHLA13mLZPWAADw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77g3LurYQ (https://www.ebay.com/itm/154764427868?hash=item2408adc25c:g:ObkAAOSwhzhhxYqb&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAypxKvMx2rSQcLvI4MTjtQa3gD%2BUweTLnN5%2FoN%2FYz7gKdTd7Pqgz6Gxl%2BiwYZECeQCZ6RLjKMsxGewh1CvlyTvr46U31ho%2Fn87KZWI4pg7riyrvCt7zCIUb64mmKHB51V1Paf73XKDf6oL%2FG9rZNfS2OiDoBimaNMUSWN%2FkbceHx9r3c80iWv7skiZILpRtFCqFDl2cFHLA13mLZPWAADw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77g3LurYQ)
The Ebay item looks very nice except for the price, G sir :P ;D
Yes, I am in a quandary, and revisiting this thread makes me want to build something similar to Killercrow’s :-*
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Little morning project cleared off, some scraps made usable...and the 2540 back in action again. (Has not been used since the Hipac units were retired).
Not as pretty as the Daq units, not as much volume as the Hipac unit...but will do the job. Could have just made a pcp tube for it, but have a couple 2240's that use cartridges and this will work in them for bulk co2 as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/lSUo7Tdl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zDiS5ZXl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ReWeyc2l.jpg)
Thoughts of "fat tube" running though my head now...lol
Al
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A few years back I gave a 1077 and Nightstalker to my brother in law. The Nightstalker was recently returned with a bad seal....which is no longer available it seems. ???
3d printed a new seal from 95d tpu and tested with an old prototype refillable 88g cart.
(https://i.imgur.com/rYD3OH1l.jpg)
Seems to work, TPU is awesome stuff. 8)
88gr co2 cartridges are STUPID expensive these days and the BIL is a retired vet on disability...we need to do something to keep him shooting and having fun...affordably.
An improved 88g cartridge seems in order. Had some old cartridges and some leftover chunks of 1045 for this prototype. Still need to make the actual pin valve and decide whether to fit a foster on the rear or make an adapter for filling it. There's ~35lbs of co2 fire extinguishers sitting in the barn, so we're good there. ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/6tzOTcXl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fprAfJ0l.jpg) (https://imgur.com/fprAfJ0)
I think it's going to work out just fine. :)
Al
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nice Work!
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TY Rob. :D
-
Little morning project cleared off, some scraps made usable...and the 2540 back in action again. (Has not been used since the Hipac units were retired).
Not as pretty as the Daq units, not as much volume as the Hipac unit...but will do the job. Could have just made a pcp tube for it, but have a couple 2240's that use cartridges and this will work in them for bulk co2 as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/lSUo7Tdl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zDiS5ZXl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ReWeyc2l.jpg)
Thoughts of "fat tube" running though my head now...lol
Al
Interesting breech, G sir :D
Is that from the Kiwi guy, aka Grant S?
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Here's the short cylinder mounted up to my 1322 PCP target pistol. Beauty fit and holy man is it heavy now ;D
Al does nice work. Very skilled and thorough. Didn't even ask for a hydrotest but he did it anyway.
Thanks again Al.
Looks much better than a bottle :-*
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Hi Rick
Yes, it's a Stace breech. A rather nice bit to have in the Crosman Lego collection.
Agree the fat tube (Big Boy tube) looks better than a bottle...just a lot of time to make all the parts required for it to work.
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Finished rust bluing the new tube for the QB79, and took a couple minutes to get the lower assembled and set the initial gap on the ssg. Out with the old, in with the new. 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/xWZLLNOl.jpg)
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Good looking stuff as always.
Had some chips made too this week.
Nothing like the scent of coolant and the noise of the cnc making chips from perfectly good billet.
Marko
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Made in Canada by Mr. Al/Gi ;D
I've somehow forgotten about the cool factor of wire stocks.
Oh, these are for the 22xx/13xx.
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I remember the 1st one being called Zorro :-*
Such an appropriate allusion.
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Hi Rick, hope you are doing well. :)
Those are some pretty old pics, haven't made a wire stock in years. I did like the Z bend though.
The first two were for my own use, fitted to a 2550 (.25 GM Marauder barrel) and a 2289. The ones in the pics you posted were for a couple guys on the CAF IIRC.
(https://i.imgur.com/YPnnds4l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7al3KXZl.jpg)
Regards,
Al
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Too sweet, G sir :-*
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Dang that's a cool 22xx.