How to center your scope

[JEFFPPC]

To find mechanical center count the clicks from full  left to full right then from one end go half the clicks. Do the same thing for up and down. To align the cross hairs hang a plum bob, the farther away  the better, I use 100 yds, then align the horizontal cross hair with it. To check this go to the distance you shoot the farthetest and draw a straight perfectly vertical line. Zero the gun at the bottem tip of that line. Click your scope up 5 to 8 minutes, the more the better. Shoot at the bottem tip of the line. You will hit higher up the line but you should hit the line. Now when you have the scope vertical crosshair aligned  cover your plum line with it and install a scope level with the bubble centered. Always shoot your rifle with the bubble in the middle. Everything will be square.

[Bayman]

To find mechanical center count the clicks from full  left to full right then from one end go half the clicks. Do the same thing for up and down. To align the cross hairs hang a plum bob, the farther away  the better, I use 100 yds, then align the horizontal cross hair with it. To check this go to the distance you shoot the farthetest and draw a straight perfectly vertical line. Zero the gun at the bottem tip of that line. Click your scope up 5 to 8 minutes, the more the better. Shoot at the bottem tip of the line. You will hit higher up the line but you should hit the line. Now when you have the scope vertical crosshair aligned  cover your plum line with it and install a scope level with the bubble centered. Always shoot your rifle with the bubble in the middle. Everything will be square.

The only problem with mechanically centering a scope by counting clicks or turns is that many scopes the stop at the ends of the adjustments are mushy and vague. Often there's no clear crisp stop. Particularly to far left and bottom ranges. It almost feels as if your damaging the erector tube or the return spring. I prefer the mirror method for this reason. It's not the best way either. The vee block method is better than the other two. The mirror method has been working well enough for me and is the simplest.

[lefteyeshot]

To find mechanical center count the clicks from full  left to full right then from one end go half the clicks. Do the same thing for up and down. To align the cross hairs hang a plum bob, the farther away  the better, I use 100 yds, then align the horizontal cross hair with it. To check this go to the distance you shoot the farthetest and draw a straight perfectly vertical line. Zero the gun at the bottem tip of that line. Click your scope up 5 to 8 minutes, the more the better. Shoot at the bottem tip of the line. You will hit higher up the line but you should hit the line. Now when you have the scope vertical crosshair aligned  cover your plum line with it and install a scope level with the bubble centered. Always shoot your rifle with the bubble in the middle. Everything will be square.

The only problem with mechanically centering a scope by counting clicks or turns is that many scopes the stop at the ends of the adjustments are mushy and vague. Often there's no clear crisp stop. Particularly to far left and bottom ranges. It almost feels as if your damaging the erector tube or the return spring. I prefer the mirror method for this reason. It's not the best way either. The vee block method is better than the other two. The mirror method has been working well enough for me and is the simplest.

Close enough to get zeroed. Like the plum bob down range. I'm gonna' try that.

[mpbby]

I had a long conversation with Hawke about scopes not holding zero and received the link below.  Long story short, I have learned about what I call as a rule of thumb for the "comfort zone" (+- 1 turn from the 'center').  Also, that Hawke adopts the V-block for centering.  So, I consider the V-block as the 'real' center.   

Nevertheless, I'm not comfortable doing the V-block.  So, for some scopes I had at hand, I did comparisons = V-block x mirror x counting clicks.  From one scope to another, the 'centers' varied, and I had .. coincidences, small and big differences.

I prefer the mirror method as a routine.  So, If I want to do it 'wright' for a certain scope, I think that is necessary to center at the V-block, look at the mirror and take notes about the eventual differences .  Then, after centering at the mirror and start zeroing, I will be actually considering the V-block center to stablish the "comfort zone". 

https://life.hawkeoptics.com/riflescope-alignment/

[Hoosier Daddy]

I had a long conversation with Hawke about scopes not holding zero and received the link below.  Long story short, I have learned about what I call as a rule of thumb for the "comfort zone" (+- 1 turn from the 'center').  Also, that Hawke adopts the V-block for centering.  So, I consider the V-block as the 'real' center.   

This was going to be my Post.
We must have spoke to the same Tech at Hawke.

A set of "V-blocks on the tube (front and rear) slowly rotate the scope and the crosshairs with "orbit" in a circle, adjust the turrets until it stays centered.

[mpbby]

Btw..

Yes, the right way to wright right is right  

[Bimota]

One time i centered a scope by clicking all the  way left then right. It went "Ting" when I got all
the way left and broke. I'm not dumb enough to try that again.

Another time a friend asked me to mount a scope for him. I put the rings on and did not check
them. I mounted the scope. Everything looked fine. The gun was shooting around 6-7 minutes
left. I was wondering if I messed something up. Then my friend tells me the last time he used
that scope it was really windy. Well that explained the "shooting left problem".

I would rather center my scope on a mirror than deal with stupid problems.

[Bimota]

I have done the V block method. Then I found out about the mirror method.
For me the mirror is quicker and easier.

[Habanero69er]

Thanks for the input of info
I've got a "V-Block". It works pretty good.

[avator]

Hmmmm.... Guess I'm all wrong.
I mount the scope on the gun and fiddle with the rotation until the vertical is aligned with center of the bore.
Then I sight in to get on paper at 20yds. Then sight in some more until I hit the POA. Then I move the target out to 35yds. (my average intended range) and fine tune the turrets.
By the time I'm done the break in process is pretty much done and I head on over to Pyramyd Air to order more pellets.... 

[runner57us]

I have a scope coming tomorrow and I think I will try both the mirror and V block methods to see how they work.  Thanks for the posting and all the comments and suggestions.

[Yogi]

I have a scope coming tomorrow and I think I will try both the mirror and V block methods to see how they work.  Thanks for the posting and all the comments and suggestions.

Well if you do it right the first time.  The second method should be spot on...

-Y