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Cutting Barrels......

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0351_Vet:

Is there a good tutorial on Cutting Barrels and properly crowning the muzzle and breeches?
Or any REALLY experienced person here who could lend some guidance?
Thanks in Advance

Mark 611:
if you don't know what you doing you better leave it to someone who does JMO! but theirs plenty of info on this subject if you want to give it a go! :P

ezman604:
Midway USA and Larry Potterfield posted a great video here.



Keep us informed on your progress Walt if you attempt it.
Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
 8)

0351_Vet:
Thanks guys, keep them coming. I have the tools (Power), I am more looking for the "Tips of the Trade" secrets.

Also found this post: http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,1831.msg14616.html#msg14616

TimmyMac1:
What I would do is buy the longest barrel cut offs you can get cheap, and practice.
Crowning is a tactile thing. You feel it more than see it when everything is right it just happens. After a 1000 crown jobs it will become a skill you'll have confidence doing.
For the first 100 or so it is a get used to it thing and trying to be gentle and let the abrasive do its job over time.
My technique is fast as fast is Profitable. The Brass screw thing was NRA published decades ago. Ld showed me the technique he employed and over time I've developed my own twist as every Smith will. You go with what has worked for you.
The Stone file thing is the expedient I added so the screw doesn't need to do a lot of work.
I use a Fine Stone File from McMaster Carr. The Stone file is tapered 5/16" on one end and ~.125" on the other 3" long. Shape a 90 degree included angle on the back of the stone file. Shape the front so it can do lead ins @ about 15 degree included angle. Shaping stones is about jigging and tayloring with belt sander or jigged Dremel to your needs. Like all thing mechanical the clever guys figure out clever ways of making/maintaining tools.
Face off the barrel from inside out and final cut very small with fresh tool face. I don't use inserts I just Cut my lathe tools back as they wear. I learned from old school tool makers who make & modify most of what they need/use.
Deburr inside edge of Breech & Muzzle (high speed lathe/hand held stone) with 90 degree incuded angle end and oil (both directions) till it goes smooth. Clean and remove abrasives and clean barrel aggressively (I like Gumout Carb and choke cleaner then Rem oil)
Put brass round head machine screw (Head Diam=125% of Bore)in drill press. Apply JB bore past to screwhead. Turn on Drill press.
Lightly push muzzle against screw head as the barrel is spun and swung left right to average out the cut. After doing this a dozen or so times you will start to get a feel for the screw being rough at first and then after about 15-45 seconds it will go dead smooth and this is when the lapping has been completed and the screw has shaped the barrel enuf to mate the radius of the screw to the muzzle crown.
Push patches and clean the abrasives out and push a pellet thru the barrel to see if there is a smooth release at the crown.
If there is a burr you go back and do the screw thing again till the pellet has no resistance at exit.
Smooth entry and exit from rifling is part and parcel to getting the most from any rifled tube.
At the end of the day the experience you get doing or practicing this particular skill will make you better everytimne ytou do it.
You can't screw up a barrel doing a hand crown job correctly. You can make a big gain in accuracy. Done right it will never get worse accuracy unless you cut off the tight end.
Practice Practice Practice. Cutting barrels back .050" at a time till you run out of barrel is the best way to learn something this feel oriented.
There are many ways to skin a fish but the faster fish skinners make more money per fish.
When you crown nearly every barrel that will sit still long enuf you get fast and it makes no sense to let anything get past you without giving it a few minutes to see what it Can Do.

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