Hank...If I can offer a suggestion: you may want to inspect the alive jam on your rifle. That would part number 29410 on your schematic. The alive jam on my Magnum had some sharp edges and points...and that in turn led to my breech seal getting damaged. Some fine grit sandpaper should help out in smoothing out those edges and prolonging the life of your breech seal. Just a little something to consider.
Good point from Paul! Regarding the video, I'm not sure about the internals of the usual scopes, type and position of the spring.. Anyway, ok, the main idea is about the erector tube remaining firmly supported after zeroing. In practice, this occurs when the scope is still nearly 'centered' (vertically and horizontally).Even with thin shim layers, you will risk to bend the scope tube when tightening the rings' screws. After doing both ways, I prefer to bend the barrel.I choose the kind of reticle based on two factors. Objectively, as being a 'just enough' referential to better match - my needs, once I use the point of aim (POA) to compensate for distance and/or wind (I don’t compensate doing clicks). As a second step, subjectively, I choose the one that I like most the appearance. So, when you have some little marks, or 'dots', they make things easier. Let's say I zeroed at 22 yards, and I become able to find out that at 50 yards I have to aim 'one mark/dot' higher. And, as the wind is blowing from the left, I have to aim ‘one and a half mark/dot’ to the left. Just as a rough example to pass the idea. Once Hector Medina has advised this scope model (and reticle), it happened that was a satisfying match to my criteria. AO (all manufacturers terminology) = Adjustable Objective; depending on the distance, you have the frontal ring (objective) to adjust the focus and parallax.FT = most probably it means ‘Field Target’.Here you may see each reticle - https://sightronusa.com/sihfieldtargetseries/Perhaps you could save €27 and get the ‘mil dot’ reticle? Optics-Trade had discounts in the 2017 Black Friday. So, you should be alert for their coming plans.
Quote from: VaporTrail on November 08, 2018, 07:48:50 PMHank...If I can offer a suggestion: you may want to inspect the alive jam on your rifle. That would part number 29410 on your schematic. The alive jam on my Magnum had some sharp edges and points...and that in turn led to my breech seal getting damaged. Some fine grit sandpaper should help out in smoothing out those edges and prolonging the life of your breech seal. Just a little something to consider. Thanks for the tip, Paul!
If somebody else is intrested about the schematics, you will find it here:
In order to be sure that it is actually adjustable for parallax, I would ask about the scope model to avoid any - possible mistake from the seller. "Is the fastening as secure with inserts as it is without them? Is there anything else that should pay attention? Of course the one with ring inserts I could use later with some 30mm tube scope."It would be exactly my way of thinking (with the ring inserts), but the ZR may be a tricky field.I think you should send a PM to Hector Medina. Among his several skills, he is a specific - expert about the ZR.Before that, I think you should check if your rifle has a barrel droop and tell Hector. For instance, optical center your current scope and shoot a 5 group at 10 yards. 'Where' was the group in relation with point of aim?
Quote from: Hank on November 07, 2018, 07:20:46 PMIf somebody else is intrested about the schematics, you will find it here:Thank you for this.