There is no substitute for ranging and shooting. Don't trust chairgun or any other program to give you accurate holdovers - go to the range, set your distances and under a variety of temps, conditions and wind, you will start to learn the gun and make yourself a range card or a range tape, whatever you want to use. I know a lot of folk use chairgun or some of the other programs, but I like my 50 yard zero and 10 yard range increments on a card done by actual range time to figure all my hold overs and hold unders - if you do any pesting, you have to know your ranges to accommodate pellet lift and drop so as to effect an ethical dispatch of the pest.
And I think that's an acceptable way of doing it; do the computer work, but then shoot to verify. There is no substitute for shooting.
There is an option on chair gun to have the range card for every yard if needed, so, what I do is get that and translate it to a similar scope cap, like in your picture, but, taking out every thing over 55 yards and positioning lines and values accord to my side wheel. Something like this:
Quote from: Miguel on June 21, 2018, 03:37:54 PMThere is an option on chair gun to have the range card for every yard if needed, so, what I do is get that and translate it to a similar scope cap, like in your picture, but, taking out every thing over 55 yards and positioning lines and values accord to my side wheel. Something like this:Were you able to actually produce that scopecap on ChairGun?
Instead of a range card I taped my scope wheel and put the aim point on the wheel. That way when I range a target all I have to do is look on my wheel to see what the holdover value is if not on crosshairs.It is best to shoot targets from 10 to 55 yards in 5 yard increments to determine what your aim points are going to be.