GTA
Target Shooting Matches, Discussion & Events => Field Target Gates => Hunter Class Field Target => Topic started by: Hogstir on June 18, 2018, 12:31:38 PM
-
I am just going to get started in Field Target Hunter Class and have a sight in question.
I am going to be shooting a TX200 with an Airmax 3-12x50.
The process I was going to use is after range marking my sidewheel,
1. Determine the most accurate pellet for my rifle.
2. Determine avg velocity using chrony.
3. Determine scope height.
4. Using ChairGun to determine optimum zero.
The question I have is can I zero my scope at near zero and then verify predicted poi at various ranges or do I need to use far zero to sight in?
I can shoot up to 25 yards at my home so I can do the shorter range testing there, then go elsewhere to do the longer range testing.
-
Zero at 25-30 yards will be the peak of your trajectory. If you sight in that way you only have hold overs, no hold unders. Some like to sight in at 40 or 45 yards so that they are always within 1 mil of the center.
-
Yup .. should ONLY have one zero ... that being the APEX of flight that for most TX's in .177 with give or take @ 2" scope height fall in the @ 26-28 yard distance.
ALL your hold points that are NOT at the zero range become HOLD OVER VALUES and never hold unders !!
-
Sure make sense.
I’ll have to wait for my TX200 to be delivered then get to work.
Thanks.
-
So using ChairGun and the single zero option I adjusted the zero to be at the apex.
The velocity is theoretical at this point but the outcome looks like this.
Does this seem close to what you were talking about?
-
Dope sheet configuration I use is that of SIMPLY the hold over values for a given range 9 to 57 yards & NOT a retical view as shown.
-
There is an option on chair gun to have the range card for every yard if needed, so, what I do is get that and translate it to a similar scope cap, like in your picture, but, taking out every thing over 55 yards and positioning lines and values accord to my side wheel.
Something like this:
-
There is no substitute for ranging and shooting. Don't trust chairgun or any other program to give you accurate holdovers - go to the range, set your distances and under a variety of temps, conditions and wind, you will start to learn the gun and make yourself a range card or a range tape, whatever you want to use. I know a lot of folk use chairgun or some of the other programs, but I like my 50 yard zero and 10 yard range increments on a card done by actual range time to figure all my hold overs and hold unders - if you do any pesting, you have to know your ranges to accommodate pellet lift and drop so as to effect an ethical dispatch of the pest.
-
Let me please add - IMHO.
-
There is no substitute for ranging and shooting. Don't trust chairgun or any other program to give you accurate holdovers - go to the range, set your distances and under a variety of temps, conditions and wind, you will start to learn the gun and make yourself a range card or a range tape, whatever you want to use. I know a lot of folk use chairgun or some of the other programs, but I like my 50 yard zero and 10 yard range increments on a card done by actual range time to figure all my hold overs and hold unders - if you do any pesting, you have to know your ranges to accommodate pellet lift and drop so as to effect an ethical dispatch of the pest.
I do it on the computer. All ranging/holdover increments come from a program (spreadsheet). And then I shoot at 10, 25, and 50 yards to verify. If those distances match my computer, everything else is good.
-
And I think that's an acceptable way of doing it; do the computer work, but then shoot to verify. There is no substitute for shooting.
-
And I think that's an acceptable way of doing it; do the computer work, but then shoot to verify. There is no substitute for shooting.
I would ALWAYS shoot to verify.
-
There is an option on chair gun to have the range card for every yard if needed, so, what I do is get that and translate it to a similar scope cap, like in your picture, but, taking out every thing over 55 yards and positioning lines and values accord to my side wheel.
Something like this:
Were you able to actually produce that scopecap on ChairGun?
-
Instead of a range card I taped my scope wheel and put the aim point on the wheel. That way when I range a target all I have to do is look on my wheel to see what the holdover value is if not on crosshairs.
It is best to shoot targets from 10 to 55 yards in 5 yard increments to determine what your aim points are going to be.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5963)
-
There is an option on chair gun to have the range card for every yard if needed, so, what I do is get that and translate it to a similar scope cap, like in your picture, but, taking out every thing over 55 yards and positioning lines and values accord to my side wheel.
Something like this:
Were you able to actually produce that scopecap on ChairGun?
Just go to toolbox/range cards and set up the values, max 55y, min 10y, steps 1 and you have every holdover yard by yard so then you can confirm every distance you check shooting what ever you want.
-
Instead of a range card I taped my scope wheel and put the aim point on the wheel. That way when I range a target all I have to do is look on my wheel to see what the holdover value is if not on crosshairs.
It is best to shoot targets from 10 to 55 yards in 5 yard increments to determine what your aim points are going to be.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/MGalleryItem.php?id=5963)
I went to town with my recently acquired 3D printer. I made sidewheels for my new scopes. The sidewheels are wide enough for distance (right column) and holdover/click (middle column) data. And also some bracketing (left column) data for "good measure".
(http://www.scotthull.us/photos/Misc/100_5287.JPG)