Or the new guy’s first attempt to solder in a valve, then ‘fixed’ just before it got boxed up?
Oh, almost forgot, that is a beautiful stock, nice work.
I think I might tip the scales a bit towards the sales sample/ prize award/ employee gun, etc. I don’t think it would have been released through the regular sales channel. My reasoning? The very nature of the stock’s grain. Specifically, the short (read weaker) cross grain through the wrist and forearm. Beautiful to look at, but not meant to hold up under hard use. But honestly, if it were mine, it would never need to fire one shot to have a valid reward of ownership.
If those are the before pictures please don't sand on it.
Quote from: 20cal on October 26, 2021, 12:52:24 AMIf those are the before pictures please don't sand on it. Why? If you take a good look I had already started on the buttstock. The finish did need attention. I only use 220 grit when sanding to only remove the finish, not wood. I'll post pictures soon when it's finished, it may change your mind....or you may hate it, but it will be in better shape then it was.
IMHO it is best to salvage an original finish that is in good condition. Areas that need attention can be restored and blended in, preserving most of the originality. It's an art that's challenging and rewarding to learn...
Quote from: 20cal on October 27, 2021, 11:16:22 AMIMHO it is best to salvage an original finish that is in good condition. Areas that need attention can be restored and blended in, preserving most of the originality. It's an art that's challenging and rewarding to learn...UJ, what is the original factory finish and how do you recommend restoring and blending worn areas?
Quote from: DanD on October 27, 2021, 11:46:30 AMQuote from: 20cal on October 27, 2021, 11:16:22 AMIMHO it is best to salvage an original finish that is in good condition. Areas that need attention can be restored and blended in, preserving most of the originality. It's an art that's challenging and rewarding to learn...UJ, what is the original factory finish and how do you recommend restoring and blending worn areas?I can not say what product was used by the Sheridan factory on the stocks. I have found BC Tru-Oil to be a good match. There are other products that work well depending on the repair. Blending can be done with #0000 steel wool and coating over the repair area and original area lightly with oil. Badly damaged areas may need sanding but I try to avoid that since it changes the original surface of the wood. Every stock is different and it takes practice. That is why it is an art. It's similar to touching up the original paint on a classic car which is very difficult. I'm sure an entire book can be written on the subject. There is a link on my Sheridan web site that may be helpful to those who are interested. After many years of collecting firearms and air rifles I have learned (from making mistakes) that preservation, if possible, is better than restoration.
I was wondering the same thing a while back, and asked an older gentleman who "worked at Sheridan from 1949-1990. I was a Tool & Die Maker my entire career at Sheridan and built all the jigs, fixtures, dies and Customer Special order guns." He said "We used the color (sunlit walnut stain) and used a satin finish clear over that."
The first Sheridan I restored was one similar to yours wood wise...it was a diamond in the rough for sure. It is a 1971, stamped on the breech. PErhaps they had a good run of wood in that era, or we both got lucky?
Quote from: msurf on October 28, 2021, 12:45:58 AMThe first Sheridan I restored was one similar to yours wood wise...it was a diamond in the rough for sure. It is a 1971, stamped on the breech. PErhaps they had a good run of wood in that era, or we both got lucky?Mike, that's amazing. What products did you use to get that finish? Did the side in the "before" picture have as much figure as the side in the "after" picture?