I know most people would scoff at these groups, but keep in mind I don't shoot supported on a bench or sticks so I think it's pretty good.
QuoteI know most people would scoff at these groups, but keep in mind I don't shoot supported on a bench or sticks so I think it's pretty good. Wait... you mean you are getting those kind of groups OFF-HAND? Out at 24 yds Those 3" Shoot-N-C bulls are pretty small at that range.Dang Man, that IS pretty darn good!
Well, looks like it's a whole new beast in a bad way...Top velocity I've reached testing with the new chronograph is 612 FPS with 14.3gn Crosman pellets. It should be sitting closer to 700 from other member's results I've seen, though those weren't from rifles that were "broken" in.I think I might have put too much tar on the spring and maybe enough molly paste on the seal. Suppose I'll break it down and re-lube it to make sure.
Quote from: SagaciousKJB on August 01, 2017, 04:02:32 AMWell, looks like it's a whole new beast in a bad way...Top velocity I've reached testing with the new chronograph is 612 FPS with 14.3gn Crosman pellets. It should be sitting closer to 700 from other member's results I've seen, though those weren't from rifles that were "broken" in.I think I might have put too much tar on the spring and maybe enough molly paste on the seal. Suppose I'll break it down and re-lube it to make sure.I've currently got a Beeman sportsman series gun apart and although it has the RS3 trigger, the internals seem pretty similar to yours. I'm having trouble getting the barrel back on during reassembly - I was wondering how you did it? I can't seem to get the pivot bolt to be able to go through the fork and breech block - it's like they aren't aligned properly.
You're probably trying to put the barrel straight in. Can't do that. It has to go in at an angle to the compression tube. Like when you have the barrel cracked open, and before you cock it.
Yes you can. The cocking link pivots at the breach. Put the link at a 90 degree angle to the breach, and insert it in the cocking slot. Then, rotate the breach into position, while holding the cocking linkage tight to the comp tube with the off hand. There isn't a break barrel gun, that l know of, that can't be disassembled, or reassembled in this fashion.
I'm having a hard time visualizing this, would you mind posting some pictures? Just to be clear, are you doing this while the piston and spring are both inserted, and the piston is fully in its forward position? I remember trying to do something like this, but the piston being kept forward by the spring meant the pivot would never line up with the holes in the forks until it was in a totally closed position. Otherwise the spring would prevent the cocking arm from moving the piston around freely, not allowing the pivot and holes in the forks to be kept aligned through the rotation.
Quote from: SagaciousKJB on December 11, 2017, 07:19:13 PMI'm having a hard time visualizing this, would you mind posting some pictures? Just to be clear, are you doing this while the piston and spring are both inserted, and the piston is fully in its forward position? I remember trying to do something like this, but the piston being kept forward by the spring meant the pivot would never line up with the holes in the forks until it was in a totally closed position. Otherwise the spring would prevent the cocking arm from moving the piston around freely, not allowing the pivot and holes in the forks to be kept aligned through the rotation.Sorry I don't have any pictures handy, at the moment. And, yes, the piston and spring are in the gun.Question for you. When you look at the cocking shoe in relation to the piston's cocking slot, ( with the gun assembled, and the barrel closed completely ), do you see a small gap between the end of the cocking shoe, and the end of the slot in the piston??If so, then you are able to disassemble / reassemble the gun, as I described. If NOT, and the cocking shoe is touching the end of the of the slot in the piston, you need to shorten the cocking shoe by about a 1/32". If you don't, it is possible that the piston isn't coming fully to rest against the front of the compression chamber, and that will eventually cause excessive wear to the cocking shoe, or, possibly break that part of the lever, completely.There should be no pressure from the piston spring on the barrel / cocking link assembly between the point where the barrel is fully latched in battery, and again just free of the barrel detent. In other words, you should be able to crack the barrel open, without cocking it, and have an unobstructed view of the back of the bore, just above the compression tube, without the piston spring trying to force the barrel closed. Make sense??
888 820 871 867 861 859 846 21.38089935 sd858.8571429 avg68 es858 fps with a 7.4 gn pellet is 12.1 ft/lbs according to ChairGun
Where did all that stuff on the front of the seal come from? When doing the compression tube you only want to scuff it not bore it out.I only do 4 or 5 real quick up and down strokes with 400 grit wet/dry in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish soap.You want another compression tube (already scuffed and deburred) with the piston and a new seal?