Quote from: SagaciousKJB on July 01, 2017, 02:13:22 PMOh also Dave, you were right about that travel-adjustment being one dangerous little guy. I've been trying to take it up just to the point where it would bump fire and then back it off. I was testing last night, cocked it, and didn't even get the barrel closed before "BANG!" and I had to clean my drawers.So I have it backed off pretty good now, making sure it won't bump fire with a hefty whack on the butt stock with a rubber mallet. It's not nearly as short a pull, but I feel better about the safety of it.Kind of disappointed I've already went through 2 dry-fires since this tune-up :/ That's gotta be bad for the seal...Glad you got away from the bump firing! Any way you can do that with a pellet in the chamber? Maybe a good pellet trap fairly near the muzzle, with the rifle on bags, whacking the shoulder area with a mallet?BTW: remember on this model, if you pull the trigger part way, even if you CAN push it back and reset the safety, the sear position doesn't change, and bump fire risk goes up... once you start to pull the trigger either go all the way on target, or finish shooting the round into the dirt or other non-ricochet/shot damage direction.
Oh also Dave, you were right about that travel-adjustment being one dangerous little guy. I've been trying to take it up just to the point where it would bump fire and then back it off. I was testing last night, cocked it, and didn't even get the barrel closed before "BANG!" and I had to clean my drawers.So I have it backed off pretty good now, making sure it won't bump fire with a hefty whack on the butt stock with a rubber mallet. It's not nearly as short a pull, but I feel better about the safety of it.Kind of disappointed I've already went through 2 dry-fires since this tune-up :/ That's gotta be bad for the seal...
After reading your comment about the ramp on the sear, I looked at my pictures again, including the hi-res originals (still with the markings.) I saw what MIGHT be an upslope on the intermediate sear, aiming up at the end. More prominent in my eye, though, is the detail on how these are stamped. The stamping/cutting deformation rounds BOTH sear pars right near this critical spot. Any lateral play in these levers will allow them to engage more, or less, securely, even with the trigger screw setting in my photos.I was interested to note that the intermediate sear has a DEFINITE downslope toward the front of the rifle starting behind that last engagement point. With longer trigger travel this WOULD give the illusion of two stages, assuming the front part ramps the other way.While looking at the pictures I realized that, for this rifle, it's important to check bump fire from the butt of the stock AND from the top. The intermediate has enough mass hanging toward the rear that a whack over the breech needs to be protected against. Dropping the rifle so it lands on the scope would be one way to cause this kind of bump fire. The snap of the barrel against the locking ball would be another. I suspect the second is what happened to you.Glad you did not get hurt! Boy, I wish Beeman had left that other trigger model on these things!!!!!
Be patient. Kenny Kormandy at his my airgun reviews on Youtube, reviewed the Crosman Crusher. It was a pretty ho hum grouper. Then he found the magic pellet and shot his best recorded group ever with that Crusher.
Do you live near Seattle/Tacoma?
I almost bought that one because I couldn't find the Silver Kodiak with the black synthetic stock for less than $150. Then I found one at Wally World for $99! That is an excellent price for that with a wood stock! Essentially the same rifle, just in wood.I was wanting the black/silver scheme and if I had gotten the wood stock version thought about refinishing the stock to a really dark, blackish grey color that would probably look awesome with the silver!
Yes, that new Beeman I showed with the Amazon website is a gas powered break barrel. They are starting to make that switch over.