One modification I did was to the retaining pins for the trigger group and but-cap. Because of the knurled ends, you have to punch these out with a pin; well, not anymore, because I fixed them up in a drill bit and sanded them flat so now I can push them out with my fingers. Should make it easier to work on in the future.
Quote from: SagaciousKJB on June 28, 2017, 07:39:16 AMOne modification I did was to the retaining pins for the trigger group and but-cap. Because of the knurled ends, you have to punch these out with a pin; well, not anymore, because I fixed them up in a drill bit and sanded them flat so now I can push them out with my fingers. Should make it easier to work on in the future.LOL! Different strokes for different folks I had been considering ADDING some MORE grip to those pins! Mine only needed a light tap to unseat. Bothered me to think that all the spring compression was held on those, and that if the wood wore on the stock in that spot, the pins could slip under full spring pressure. Even assembling, I liked having them gripped in place as I released the spring compressor to let the pre-load settle back on them. But I'm not very dextrous. If there are three parts to fit together, I can pretty much count on running out of fingers to keep everything aligned until it's all settled Enjoy!
The one thing that's bothering me now, is this darn scope. The objective bell is SO close to the tube that these protruding portions sometimes come in contact when I adjust the objective.
Quote from: SagaciousKJB on June 28, 2017, 07:39:16 AMThe one thing that's bothering me now, is this darn scope. The objective bell is SO close to the tube that these protruding portions sometimes come in contact when I adjust the objective.Have you considered raising the scope by putting shim material like aluminum or plastic between the bottom mounts and the scope tube?
The best I could muster with .22... 3" targets, 1/4" bulls-eye
QuoteThe best I could muster with .22... 3" targets, 1/4" bulls-eyeIn all seriousness Saga... that top bull isn't bad for a $98 Walmart gun at 25 yards.
Try the RWS super domes
This guy has got your back....http://www.straightshooters.com/straight-shooters-full-pellet-sampler-.22.html* JSB GTO Lead Free 11.75 gr* H&N Baracuda Green 12.65 gr* Crosman Premier 14.30 gr* JSB Exact Express 14.35 gr* RWS SuperDome 14.50 gr* Vortex Supreme 14.66 gr* H&N Field Target Trophy (FTT) 14.66 gr* Beeman Field Target Special Copper (FTS) 14.72 gr* H&N Field Target Trophy (FTT) Power 14.66 gr* JSB Exact 15.90 gr* Air Arms Diabolo Field 16.00 gr* Air Arms Diabolo Field Heavy 18.00 gr* JSB Exact Heavy 18.13 gr* H&N Baracuda Hunter Extreme 19.09 gr* H&N Baracuda 21.14 gr* H&N Baracuda Match 21.14 gr* H&N Baracuda Power 21.14 gr* Beeman Kodiak 21.14 grHe also has 2 kits of 177 samplers as well
There used to be two in 177, now I only see one as well.
As you try different pellets, be sure to clean the CP schmutz from the bore! Seems like the Chinese Beeman steel and Crosman pellet alloy are made for each other, with an unhealthy coating developing fairly quickly. And you've put quite a few Crosman's through the barrel.I had looked at the pellet samplers quite a bit too. I ended up with the RWS based on tins of two types of Crosmans, another brand I can't remember, and the RWS superdomes. Nothing worked well until I cleaned the barrel. Then the RWS gave me tight enough groups that I stopped looking. I'm 100% certain that any remaining spread in groups is just the way I interact with the Beeman.BTW: once the action is reasonable, the next tough part is the travel AFTER the full break. Another poster here has a good series of pictures on reducing this. Better follow-through is thoroughly demonstrated to equate with tighter groups. Here's the link: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=64509.msg676471#msg676471
Oh also Dave, you were right about that travel-adjustment being one dangerous little guy. I've been trying to take it up just to the point where it would bump fire and then back it off. I was testing last night, cocked it, and didn't even get the barrel closed before "BANG!" and I had to clean my drawers.So I have it backed off pretty good now, making sure it won't bump fire with a hefty whack on the butt stock with a rubber mallet. It's not nearly as short a pull, but I feel better about the safety of it.Kind of disappointed I've already went through 2 dry-fires since this tune-up :/ That's gotta be bad for the seal...