My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast



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Offline Hoosier Daddy

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #40 on: July 15, 2017, 10:44:19 AM »
Quote
I know most people would scoff at these groups, but keep in mind I don't shoot supported on a bench or sticks so I think it's pretty good.

Wait... you mean you are getting those kind of groups OFF-HAND? Out at 24 yds
 Those 3" Shoot-N-C bulls are pretty small at that range.
Dang Man, that IS pretty darn good!
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Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #41 on: July 15, 2017, 04:23:08 PM »
Quote
I know most people would scoff at these groups, but keep in mind I don't shoot supported on a bench or sticks so I think it's pretty good.

Wait... you mean you are getting those kind of groups OFF-HAND? Out at 24 yds
 Those 3" Shoot-N-C bulls are pretty small at that range.
Dang Man, that IS pretty darn good!

Thanks, I needed to hear that lol. Yeah I sit on my porch with my knee propping up my elbow, but it really doesn't add as much higher stability as you'd think with this big 11 pound gun, I still wobble a lot. The 16x setting on my scope helps me see, anything less than 4 and I wouldn't be able to.

Dave99, yeah I was thinking about getting some shooting sticks and hoping the ability for the stick to travel forward and backward will compensate kind of like the paint roller trick does for benched shooting. I know nced shoots off a bucket and sticks, and he does a pretty good job.

Unfortunately it hated the Superdomes. But the JSB Express have the same weight as these Crosman and I shot a pretty good group with them too.

The 18 grain ones did a fine little group too, just the poi was off. I think I'll probably get the JSB Express, the air arms and more Crosman and then figure out a way to bench up before testing again. Eventually I wanna do some testing at 50 yards too, but I gotta go out to the local shooting hole. Only 50 yards shots I have here are beyond a field of brush, trash and barbed wire... yikes.

I think I'm gonna try one of those over-travel screws as well Dave99. I think the lock time is so long that jerking after the break definitely effects it, and I have found myself training bad habits into that because instead of letting the trigger break right when  the reticle is still, sometimes the reticle is still moving and I have found myself kind of flinging it to the point of aim I want in the last split second.
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #42 on: July 18, 2017, 07:40:11 AM »


So in lieu of buying a whole tap and die set, or over-spending on just one tap or die and a wrench, I just decided to approach the over-travel stop in a different way. Happened to have some wire/rod that I knew to be almost the same diameter of a small drill bit. Still haven't actually measured it, I'm guessing it's 1/16". Anyway, it was kind of tricky marking where the hole should be drilled, and the first one was pretty low. It doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference being so close, but because of the angle, the tip of the trigger still had a lot of over-travel.

Not really as much adjustment as possible with a screw, but on the other hand if I need to adjust it, it's pretty simple. If I need more travel, I can just grind a little bit on the trigger group housing, and if things go bad I can use JB weld to fill in the gaps.

Speaking of JB weld, had to use that to fix the pin in, so I haven't really had a chance to test fire it yet except with the stock off and that was pretty tricky, and doesn't really give me a good feel.  I'm sure there's still a minute amount of over-travel, but like I said I can add JB weld later, then sand it down to tune it out further. Sounds kind of like a pain, but I have a reason...

Basically, once it's set, it's set. This stopping point being static means that if in the future my travel-length adjustment screw gets loose or changes, this is kind of a reference point because if the travel screw isn't set right, then the trigger won't be able to move far enough back to break.  No need to remember how many turns or some other way of recalling the travel-adjustment setting, this kind of locks it in.

Plus, if I overlooked something real bone-headed, pretty easy to undo with my dremel and a cut-off wheel. Speaking of which, made some new stock screws after I confused inch/lbs with ft/lbs of torque...




I'll have some chronograph numbers soon I hope. Also getting a shooting stick, or somehow making some of my own, so I can really see which of these pellets groups best. I was thinking I could just make my own, but then I saw some on WM online for about $10 that seem like they'd work better anyway--think it'd be worth the money. I'm only cheaping out on every other aspect of this :P
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #43 on: July 31, 2017, 07:03:34 AM »
Well, I'm really not sure if I'll be able to get very tight groups with this rifle. Tried a shooting stick, and it's still all over on the horizontal spread. I wonder if there's too much barrel play, but I've got to wrench it quite a bit to feel any wiggle.

The trigger is bugging me, because it is such an ultra-light pull when I apply molly paste to it. However, it seems once it wears down, it starts to creep back up with pull force. I am thinking that I need to get some fine grit sand paper and put a really nice polish on the sears to mimic that molly paste permanently. The springs are very light, it's all the finish in the sears. I probably made a mistake in the direction I was polishing with the 600 grit, as I was going side-to-side on the sear faces instead of from front-to-back, which is the direction they travel when rubbing against each other.  SO long story short, my sears are rubbing against the grain of the finish.

Should be getting my chornograph in the mail tomorrow to put up some velocity figures. Interested to see how close they compare to my ChronoConnect figures.




There's lots and lots of flyers, but the actual groupings are about as tight as anything else I've mustered. Still not really getting that reticle real still either so it's not like lousy shooting can be ruled out.
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #44 on: August 01, 2017, 04:02:32 AM »
Well, looks like it's a whole new beast in a bad way...

Top velocity I've reached testing with the new chronograph is 612 FPS with 14.3gn Crosman pellets. It should be sitting closer to 700 from other member's results I've seen, though those weren't from rifles that were "broken" in.

I think I might have put too much tar on the spring and maybe enough molly paste on the seal.  Suppose I'll break it down and re-lube it to make sure.
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline dsaavedra

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #45 on: November 28, 2017, 08:58:12 PM »
Well, looks like it's a whole new beast in a bad way...

Top velocity I've reached testing with the new chronograph is 612 FPS with 14.3gn Crosman pellets. It should be sitting closer to 700 from other member's results I've seen, though those weren't from rifles that were "broken" in.

I think I might have put too much tar on the spring and maybe enough molly paste on the seal.  Suppose I'll break it down and re-lube it to make sure.

I've currently got a Beeman sportsman series gun apart and although it has the RS3 trigger, the internals seem pretty similar to  yours. I'm having trouble getting the barrel back on during reassembly - I was wondering how you did it? I can't seem to get the pivot bolt to be able to go through the fork and breech block - it's like they aren't aligned properly.
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Offline Dave99

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #46 on: November 30, 2017, 09:40:15 AM »
Well, looks like it's a whole new beast in a bad way...

Top velocity I've reached testing with the new chronograph is 612 FPS with 14.3gn Crosman pellets. It should be sitting closer to 700 from other member's results I've seen, though those weren't from rifles that were "broken" in.

I think I might have put too much tar on the spring and maybe enough molly paste on the seal.  Suppose I'll break it down and re-lube it to make sure.

I've currently got a Beeman sportsman series gun apart and although it has the RS3 trigger, the internals seem pretty similar to  yours. I'm having trouble getting the barrel back on during reassembly - I was wondering how you did it? I can't seem to get the pivot bolt to be able to go through the fork and breech block - it's like they aren't aligned properly.

It would have been REALLY hard for Beeman to spring that part to put the pin in if it had been misaligned.  Perhaps you could try checking the alignment WITHOUT the anti-beartrap connected?  If that looks OK then the challenge is jiggling all those parts just right so they get to the "sweet spot" where the hinge bolt can be put in.
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Offline longhunter

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #47 on: November 30, 2017, 01:52:01 PM »
You're probably trying to put the barrel straight in. Can't do that. It has to go in at an angle to the compression tube. Like when you have the barrel cracked open,  and before you cock it.
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Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #48 on: December 11, 2017, 05:12:49 AM »
You're probably trying to put the barrel straight in. Can't do that. It has to go in at an angle to the compression tube. Like when you have the barrel cracked open,  and before you cock it.

The only problem with this position is that the cocking-arm can not be inserted into the cocking-slot unless the angle of the barrel to the compression tube is perfectly parallel.  That's one mod I've meant to do, so that you can insert the cocking-arm, and then angle the barrel into the forks at an offset and insert the pivot-bolt.  It would only take a little bit grinding from what I can see.

The way I got around it is honestly probably more dangerous than what should be recommended without a heavy disclaimer: YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT LIKE I DID IT. Instead of relying on the pivot bolt, I placed an allen wrench in through the barrel pivot and both forks, and used that to cock the rifle.  Then once the spring tension was taken up by the sear, I raised the barrel up, and quickly replaced the allen wrench with the pivot-bolt.  That creates a very precarious position for the rifle to be in if the sear let go and there was no pivot bolt.  I just made sure I had ahold of both ends of the rifle (my hand on the muzzle, the butt wedged between MY butt and the couch I was on ) and was quick to replace the wrench with the bolt.
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline longhunter

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #49 on: December 11, 2017, 01:53:24 PM »
Yes you can. The cocking link pivots at the breach. Put the link at a 90 degree angle to the breach, and insert it in the cocking slot. Then, rotate the breach into position,  while holding the cocking linkage tight to the comp tube with the off hand. There isn't a break barrel gun, that l know of, that can't be disassembled, or reassembled in this fashion.
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Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #50 on: December 11, 2017, 07:19:13 PM »
Yes you can. The cocking link pivots at the breach. Put the link at a 90 degree angle to the breach, and insert it in the cocking slot. Then, rotate the breach into position,  while holding the cocking linkage tight to the comp tube with the off hand. There isn't a break barrel gun, that l know of, that can't be disassembled, or reassembled in this fashion.

I'm having a hard time visualizing this, would you mind posting some pictures?  Just to be clear, are you doing this while the piston and spring are both inserted, and the piston is fully in its forward position? 

I remember trying to do something like this, but the piston being kept forward by the spring meant the pivot would never line up with the holes in the forks until it was in a totally closed position. Otherwise the spring would prevent the cocking arm from moving the piston around freely, not allowing the pivot and holes in the forks to be kept aligned through the rotation.

I don't have a jig to remove the spring while the barrel is on, so I have to remove the barrel, and then put the compression tube in a bar clamp.  It's only ever been an issue with this rifle because it doesn't have a second pivot in the cocking-link like my Crosman Vantage does.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2017, 07:21:17 PM by SagaciousKJB »
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline Hoosier Daddy

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #51 on: December 11, 2017, 07:23:24 PM »
So Glad I subscribed to this thread.
You guys are awesome in your knowledge.
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Crosman: PC77, 1740
Benjiman H9A

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Air Arms: S400-SL Carbine FAC
Beeman: RS2 Silver Kodiak,
Benjamin: 312, 342, 392P, 392PA, Maximus
Crosman: Genesis NP .22, Quest 1000X, Raven, 2nd & 3rd var 160's
Feinwerkbau: FWB 300S
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Offline longhunter

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #52 on: December 12, 2017, 09:28:34 AM »


I'm having a hard time visualizing this, would you mind posting some pictures?  Just to be clear, are you doing this while the piston and spring are both inserted, and the piston is fully in its forward position? 

I remember trying to do something like this, but the piston being kept forward by the spring meant the pivot would never line up with the holes in the forks until it was in a totally closed position. Otherwise the spring would prevent the cocking arm from moving the piston around freely, not allowing the pivot and holes in the forks to be kept aligned through the rotation.



Sorry I don't have any pictures handy, at the moment. And, yes, the piston and spring are in the gun.

Question for you. When you look at the cocking shoe in relation to the piston's cocking slot, ( with the gun assembled, and the barrel closed completely ), do you see a small gap between the end of the cocking shoe, and the end of the slot in the piston??
If so, then you are able to disassemble / reassemble the gun, as I described. If NOT, and the cocking shoe is touching the end of the of the slot in the piston, you need to shorten the cocking shoe by about a 1/32". If you don't, it is possible that the piston isn't coming fully to rest against the front of the compression chamber, and that will eventually cause excessive wear to the cocking shoe, or, possibly break that part of the lever, completely.
There should be no pressure from the piston spring on the barrel / cocking link assembly between the point where the barrel is fully latched in battery, and again just free of the barrel detent.
In other words, you should be able to crack the barrel open, without cocking it, and have an unobstructed view of the back of the bore, just above the compression tube, without the piston spring trying to force the barrel closed.

Make sense??
  • casco, wi. USA
'87 Diana 48 .177
crosman model 1 first varient
post war crosman 101 ( 1949 )
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Beeman P17 
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Benjamin 310 (early)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #53 on: December 12, 2017, 05:56:10 PM »


I'm having a hard time visualizing this, would you mind posting some pictures?  Just to be clear, are you doing this while the piston and spring are both inserted, and the piston is fully in its forward position? 

I remember trying to do something like this, but the piston being kept forward by the spring meant the pivot would never line up with the holes in the forks until it was in a totally closed position. Otherwise the spring would prevent the cocking arm from moving the piston around freely, not allowing the pivot and holes in the forks to be kept aligned through the rotation.



Sorry I don't have any pictures handy, at the moment. And, yes, the piston and spring are in the gun.

Question for you. When you look at the cocking shoe in relation to the piston's cocking slot, ( with the gun assembled, and the barrel closed completely ), do you see a small gap between the end of the cocking shoe, and the end of the slot in the piston??
If so, then you are able to disassemble / reassemble the gun, as I described. If NOT, and the cocking shoe is touching the end of the of the slot in the piston, you need to shorten the cocking shoe by about a 1/32". If you don't, it is possible that the piston isn't coming fully to rest against the front of the compression chamber, and that will eventually cause excessive wear to the cocking shoe, or, possibly break that part of the lever, completely.
There should be no pressure from the piston spring on the barrel / cocking link assembly between the point where the barrel is fully latched in battery, and again just free of the barrel detent.
In other words, you should be able to crack the barrel open, without cocking it, and have an unobstructed view of the back of the bore, just above the compression tube, without the piston spring trying to force the barrel closed.

Make sense??

Yeah I think I know what you're getting at!  In fact I've always noticed a bit of damage to the piston where the cocking-arm is seated into it as if the piston is slamming onto the end of the cocking-shoe.

I don't have my rifle here with my, I left it at my buddy's house since that's where I go shoot it at anyway. I'll have to remember to bring it home to check all this out with.  Thanks!
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #54 on: April 22, 2018, 04:34:10 AM »
Well, late summer got a bit too hot for shooting and then the fall/winter so I finally got to shooting this rifle a little more recently, and I definitely did a butcher job on this tune-up :/

Big problem is I didn't really document everything I did quite well.  At some point I ended up swapping back and forth between seals, and I think both of them were a little undersized.  One was undersized because I made it that way ( the stock, blue seal ) and then there was another one that's in there now that's (after-market, clear seal) that's made of nylon and I got from Jeff.  After my last post about not getting the numbers I expected, I did a little more testing with a chronograph.

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=131423.0

According to that post, I say...

"I can only find one place to get a seal that looks like the factory one that was a little "snug", to try to size the seal. I tried with the factory one, but over-did itThis after-market nylon one is clear and is the one that's a little loose, and also the one you can buy at most outlets.  The blue/green Norrica one is the one they're using from factory but I can only find it from one outlet."

Was really wondering what could be going on, even thinking the temperature/humidity differences could be causing it since I was getting consistent numbers, just lower.  Finally had my "eureka" moment asking about seal resistance just recently...

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=142332.msg1441511#msg1441511

Basically I realized what was going on was the seal being slightly undersized, but being of the parachute design, was traveling a certain amount down the tube losing compressing until the drag caused it to parachute and it sealed. That's why I was getting the lower, yet still consistent numbers.  I posted these figures at the start of the "Still shy a few ft/lbs" thread...

Quote
888   
820   
871   
867   
861   
859   
846   
21.38089935   sd
858.8571429   avg
68   es

858 fps with a 7.4 gn pellet is 12.1 ft/lbs according to ChairGun

Well I was cautioned against using the lighter 7.4 grain pellets so I went and got some 10.5 grain ones, but they weren't really giving me the accuracy I wanted, and they weren't "sealing up" the barrel or adding any extra cushion against the piston seal like I wanted so I didn't see much of an energy increase with them.

I chronied a 22 shot string with them a couple weeks ago which didn't seem bad, not sure why I couldn't hit &^^& with these, but still showing the lack of power...

716
734
726
723
725
731
739
731
733
725
732
731
734
732
720
736
733
728
728
721
725

High: 739
Low: 713
Average: 728
Spread: 26
Sd: 6

739 fps with 10.5 grain = 12.7 ft/lbs


So not being satisfied with the 10.5 grain performance, and having shot thousand upon thousands of 7.4 grain pellets with this gun PRIOR to the lube-tune, I decided to get a tin of those and chronograph them...  And welp, that's when I broke the gun.

I did a 30 shot string with my Vantage NP, so I decided to do 30 shots with the Kodiak X2, and as you can see things went quite bad ( from last to first shot )

691
71
711
712
737
739
730
727
735
731
149
766
754
780
768
781
803
810
796
769
811
791
241
812
825
800
807
838
826
829
840

So not much point in getting the statistical data, but as you can see the MV pretty much gradually trended down and by the time it was at that point, I could smell the barrel dieseling.  I gave it a few minutes to cool down and tried again, but it was still only in the high 600s and I decided not to shoot it much more to avoid damaging it further.

The fact this gun can't digest the 7.4 grain ammo it always did with the factory ( tighter) seal as it did with the newer ( looser ) seal corroborates the whole, "I've been shooting with too loose a seal" idea, and it seems like something finally gave.  Hoping the seal finally just gave and I will just need to replace it rather than something more significant in the rifle being broken.

I'll have to tear it down and get pics tomorrow when I have light for better pictures ( no flash on my camera ).
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #55 on: April 24, 2018, 05:19:04 PM »
Okay, got the gun apart, and got pictures of the seal.  There's no question it was too loose, I can turn the compression tube over to one angle or the other and get the piston to slide back and forth.  It seems like it was shedding chunks off of it.

What worries me is that I think this was a fresh seal so it shouldn't have been that loose to begin with.  I'm hoping that I didn't over-do it when I tried to polish the compression tube with sandpaper.







Not quite sure what I will do if I ended up enlarging the compression tube too much, but I will need to get another seal just to test.  For now the gun exists as a bag of parts :/
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline Jeff aka Privateer

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #56 on: April 24, 2018, 05:32:35 PM »
Where did all that stuff on the front of the seal come from?
 :o

When doing the compression tube you only want to scuff it not bore it out.
I only do 4 or 5 real quick up and down strokes with 400 grit wet/dry in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish soap.

You want another compression tube (already scuffed and deburred) with the piston and a new seal?
I'll even throw in a bit of the Krytox lube I have on hand.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2018, 05:41:06 PM by Jeff aka Privateer »
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Offline SagaciousKJB

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #57 on: April 24, 2018, 05:48:55 PM »
Where did all that stuff on the front of the seal come from?
 :o

When doing the compression tube you only want to scuff it not bore it out.
I only do 4 or 5 real quick up and down strokes with 400 grit wet/dry in a bucket of water with a few drops of dish soap.

You want another compression tube (already scuffed and deburred) with the piston and a new seal?

Oh man that would be great!  Please save me from myself! haha

Yeah by the sounds of it I definitely over-did it then.  I wrapped the sandpaper against the dowel so that only a flap was making contact with the tube and it wasn't firm, but I guess with all that RPM and extra time spent, it must have removed enough thousanths of an inch.

As for all that debris, that's exactly what I was wondering.  I think those are little bits of plastic from the seal itself, because the middle of it is kind of chewed out a little bit, almost like the screw was shearing off bits of it as it smashed into the tube.
Remington Vantage NP .177 (JM molly paste, JM Seal, GRT-III trigger blade and polished sears, polished and buttoned piston, brass pivot washer mod, CPHP 4-16x40AO)

Beeman RS2 Silver Kodiak X2 .177/.22(JM molly paste and tar, polished sears, trigger over-travel stop, custom scope stop, polished and buttoned piston, included 4x32 scope)

Offline Jeff aka Privateer

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #58 on: April 24, 2018, 06:04:01 PM »
That stuff looks like burned off Moly lube to me.
If you use the krytox? Don't over do it! A little goes a LONG WAY! (same with moly)
You really only want enuff to assist the piston going in. Nothing more.

I'll double check the compression tube I have here before I ship it all.


IF you let sand paper loose like that? You'll not get a round sand effect.
The paper will jump and slap and you get a tube that has high and low spots.
I use some of the insulation you put on water pipes to get a kind of snug fit then wrap the paper around that.
Just a few real quick passes up and down and stop! Your only breaking the glaze to hold any lubes and/or remove
old burnished in garbage.
I'd say one could do a quick pass or 2 with 400 grit then do another couple with 600 and call it a day.


« Last Edit: April 24, 2018, 06:12:26 PM by Jeff aka Privateer »
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Offline Back_Roads

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Re: My Silver Kodiak is a whole new beast
« Reply #59 on: April 24, 2018, 06:10:15 PM »
 This post got me thinking about my old Beeman dual cal. It has had all kinds of ammo sent down both barrels for over 6 years , and got extra wear and tear being my only air rifle for over 2 years. Still shoots accurate as heck but I am sure it is on its last legs.
 So it is sitting on my work bench awaiting a tear down and inspection.
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