GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => China/Asian AirGun Gate => Topic started by: Ultramarine on November 28, 2017, 02:57:54 PM
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I write this longish post because I've never been able to shoot decently with a Webley Rebel clone I bought almost 3 years ago from a German reseller, and I'm looking for some clue that could change that, from Webley rebel owners.
Still today, I couldn't group more than 2 to 3 shots from 33 yards. The first flaw I discovered when I bought this rifle was that the threaded part of the plastic piece which supports the pump pivot pin and the foresight was'nt aligned with the barrel axis. After a lot of tinkering and eventually changing the whole piece, this issue was solved.
But I explored many other tracks:
- I tried to add a very small piece of plastic at the end of the probe as I felt the pellets were not properly introduced in the detent chamber. No significant result, so I removed the gadget.
- Carefully polished the barrel crown with the conical felt piece of a Dremel (one of the good advices from Longhunter). No harm, a shiny crown but nothing really better.
- Changed exhaust valve o'ring. Shot a bit harder, no accuracy improvement.
- Put a piece of self vulcanising tape around the outer barrell where it enters the plastic receiver so to reduce air leak (had achieved a talc test before). Succeeded, but didn't shoot better.
- Changed probe O'ring for same reasons. Same improvement, same result.
- Disassembled at least 3 times the "compressing cartridge" and fully cleaned it. Tricky but I succeeded. Need to be carefull when reassembling because its position directly influences the trigger operation.
- Tried to improve the trigger mechanism, noticeably the "sash window looking" piece. Polished it a little and the valve pin, too. Then the rifle would shoot by itself when pumping, without touching the trigger blade, the safety beeing on. Oops !! :o :o Made the spring under the "sash window looking piece" stronger and now all's OK, though the trigger weight slighly increased. Didn't improve accuracy.
- Changed the plastic rear sight for a metal one. A bit more pleasant to shoot, nothing else.
- Tried to install a 4x32 scope. Allowed me to discover the plastic dovetail axis was about 1 to 2 degrees to the left from the barrel axis! Hard to compensate even with a shim. Too much P.O.I. dispersion requesting constant adjustment=> back to open sights.
- Tried 11 kind of pellets, from 7.9gr to 10.5gr, of all shapes. Domed X-field 8.64 gr from Stoeger shoot best, but that best is poor.
- Tried many combinations of stroke numbers, pellets, etc. Non conclusive.
- Of course tried without LDC. Noisy and still unsteady.
- Now the barrel : I didn't dare pushing a pellet in it in order to find soft or hard spots, as I don't have any soft enough rod. But looking into it with a powerfull flashlight, I found it shiny and regular, and that doesn't mean a thing, I know...
I probably tried others tricks I just can't remember. So you may ask me why didn't I wrap that ^*§*^ on a tree ? 'Cause I don't want to damage my trees and I'm not strong enough to do that. 8)
More seriously, I can't help trying to make that gun shoot decently : it has an intriguing and very simple mechanism, it's well balanced, powerful enough, has a pleasant wood stock and is neighbor friendly.
But the heck if I can find why it doesn't want to group with more than 2 or three pellets !?!
Any original ideas ?
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Hmm, beyond the fact it's a bit boring post, I think it requires some pics.
Done this morning.
First pic : carefully shot 5 pellets from the infamous Airstrike.
Second pic : quickly shot five from my brave Crosman 2100.
What else ?
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I found my Plastic Rebel .177 prefers H&N Excite pellets , what brand / styles of pellet have you tried ?
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OK, let's try an inventory, with comments...
- Crosman Premier domed (or pointed): Not worse than others. No measurable differences between different stroke numbers? Bad.
- Crosman Destroyer : flying everywhere past 15 yards and inconsistant below
- Crosman Hollow Point : same as Crosman Domed
- JSB Express : flying everywhere, etc.
- H&N sport Barracuda : quite poor though powerful at a distance (as far as, by chance, I would hit the target)
- Panther Domed pellets (a 9.2gr british brand) : became hazardous in this rifle, with a 5 inches dispersion at 33 yards.
- Crosman Premier Ultra Magnum : consistently inconsistant, if I dare say.
- Solognac "perforation" (same as H&N Silver Point, 11.57gr) : same as the previous ones
- Umarex Cobra (pointed 8.6gr) :allow some 3 to 4 pellets groups, then gently crawl away.
- Solognac pointed : same as Umarex Cobra
- Air Arms Diabolo Field (pricey ones) : inconsistant
- Gamo Red fire : low and inconsistant.
- RWS Club (7.0gr) with 4 or 5 strokes, nothing better: shotgun style
- Gamo Lethal (ultra light alloy plastic coated pellets) : same or worse
- Prometheus (ultra light alloy plastic coated pellets) : can't tell if I hit something with them.
I also tried gamo rounded lead pellets, just for fun (?), but they proved to be even more hazardous than the Panther Domes.
BTW, almost all these pellets provide a decent accuracy in my Crosman 2100 and my Crosman 1377, except the Gamo red fire (too wide skirt). Same with the heavier ones in my Crosman Vantage NP, although this one does its best with the Stoeger X-Field, the H&N Sport Barracuda and the Crosman Premier Ultra Magnum .
So there's obviously a problem I can't solve with this rifle!!!
Yves
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Yikes !
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It may just have a bad barrel. You could try to fire lap it to see if it improves.
Good luck!
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Dan,
Had to browse Internet's specialized sites to understand what's fire lapping. Found that : http://www.ktgunsmith.com/firelapping.htm. (http://www.ktgunsmith.com/firelapping.htm.)
But how should I proceed with such an air rifle ? Though my poor pumper shoots really badly, I don't want its barrell to be even more damaged, if the problem lies there.
Yves
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have you tried to touch-up the crown ?
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have you tried to touch-up the crown ?
+1
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Dan,
Had to browse Internet's specialized sites to understand what's fire lapping. Found that : http://www.ktgunsmith.com/firelapping.htm. (http://www.ktgunsmith.com/firelapping.htm.)
But how should I proceed with such an air rifle ? Though my poor pumper shoots really badly, I don't want its barrell to be even more damaged, if the problem lies there.
Yves
Yves, I'm not an expert, but I've tried fire-lapping a few times. I used Remington 40x bore cleaner which has a non-embedding abrasive. Just shoot some pellets through that are coated with your choice of abrasive, then clean the barrel thoroughly. It seems to have made a minor improvement on a less than awesome Hatsan barrel I own.
I think it is worth the risk to try and carefully push a pellet through and feel for tight spots. Be aware that the first part of travel will always feel tight as the pellet conforms to the barrel. You can then use an abrasive on a brush and/or patch to try and lap out any breech or mid-barrel tight spots. I have lapped one barrel and improved accuracy, but then tried to improve it more and went too far, so proceed with caution. The way I see it, if the barrel is already terrible, and the gun is relatively inexpensive, what do you have to lose?
All that said, perhaps someone with a little more expertise than me will give better advice.
Good luck!
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Gendoc & GP 2004 : as I said in the beginning of my long story, checking the crown and polishing it very cautiously was the second thing I did. The Q-tip test hadn't revealead any burr but I polished it a bit, just to be sure...
Dan, thanks again. I'm going to try all you suggest, step by step and I'll keep you informed of the results, bad or good.
Yves
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Looks like your barrel is moving, from shot to shot. Check the breech and front sight / barrel band for movement.
Just for giggles, try placing a wedge between the barrel and pump tube, just behind the front sight.
It's either that, or the scope is changing the point of impact due to being jarred by the pumping.
Just a couple of thoughts.
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Well, I spent quite a whole day trying to fix my blunderbuss (that the nickname I gave to this rifle). Hard time and almost no improvement.
To sum it up :
1. After disassembly, the first thing I did was pushing a pellet into the barrel. Chose a light and not too wide one (RWS club flat head). Didn't really feel hard or soft spots but... I just dare not show how filthy that pellet was, though I regularly clean that barrel with a DIY boresnake. So I used my cleaning kit (rod, brushes, oil, etc...) and cleaned that barrel the most I could finishing with a Q-tip I pushed in. Looked clean. But meanwhile I had pushed other pellets in the barrel, softer ones, and discovered weird things (see point 3. hereafter)
2. Then I reiterated the cautious crown polishing process (see post above) with a bit more energy. Perfect to my eyes but a macro shot taken with my camera made me do it a bit more. To my opinion, now it looks really acceptable.
3. An Air Arms pellet I had pushed through the barrell with the cleaning rod exited with a big dent on its skirt, in a way the rod couldn't be the cause, nor any "hard spot" in the barrel itself. Using a powerful flashlight, I discovered what some Webley Rebel owners had mentionned : the inner diameter of the barrel is way smaller than the receiver's guide. So when the probe pushes the pellet, besides the fact it may cause it to go a bit sideways while it enters the barrel, it can easily be damaged by the barrel's mouth edge. So I tried, if not exactly to chamfer the barrel's mouth, at least make its edges smoother. I'm not going to tell you how I achieved that, I'm not proud of it except that I suppose I succeeded...more or less. I miss dedicated tools.
4. Then for the...th time, I reassembled that mess and shot a few pellets to a "test target" from 10 yards with open sights. It really looked acceptable, grouping under an inch so I decided, once again, to try installing a scope (a low end but sturdy reliable chinese 4x32). No need to tell you how long it took to compensate the misalignment between the plastic dovetail axis and the barrel's one.
Conclusion : a desperately poor improvement (one inch dispersion at a 20 yards range) that makes me wonder if I'm not suffering severe mental illness. Cause: excessive airguns tinkering and lack of airgun shooting practice. Significant symptoms : confuses a slingshot with a Feinwerkbau rifle.
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I don't think there is anything that can be done to improve a Webley Rebel, except one.
I have had all the problems and nothing improved it. They are a pretty shoddy gun. I believe they have been discontinued.
The good thing about them is that the stock fits a Sharp Innova. I just happened to have one with a ratty stock.
Now I have a Sharp Innova that shoots very well with a tidy synthetic stock.
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Sometimes 1" at 20 yards is as good as it gets for a budget rifle.
I too have often confused the slingshot and the Feinwerbau. It's really fun to buy inexpensive airguns and hope for the best, but it's a lot less frustrating to just save up for a Feinwerkbau.
Have fun!
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Looks like your barrel is moving, from shot to shot. Check the breech and front sight / barrel band for movement.
Just for giggles, try placing a wedge between the barrel and pump tube, just behind the front sight.
It's either that, or the scope is changing the point of impact due to being jarred by the pumping.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Scott,
Your advice is as simple and legitimate as usual. But as you might have noticed, I already shimmed the outer barrel to the receiver with some self vulcanising tape, and it really can't move. The other end of the outer barrel is even more tightened to that "forepiece" that receives the pump pivot pin, the foresight and a threaded end that can receive an LDC.
So should I reinforce the interlock of the inner and outer barrels, at least at their ends ? I'm not sure of that.
I'm afraid my troubles may lie in
- a likely bad barrel ;
- a real gap between the receiver's pellet guide and the barrels's mouth, regularly damaging the pellets' skirts ;
- a misconception of what I call, missing the appropriate technical words in english, the "detent chamber", where the air decompresses in an unsound way that propells the pellets in inconsistant way.
Wow! I went to the limits of my poor english!!! Did you get me ?
Within a few days, I should receive a reliable metal rear sight I ordered at a local e-bay shop that should adapt to my rifle's dovetail. I'll wait for it before trying the famous "wrap around a tree" method.
Kind regards,
Yves
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Novagun and DanD,
Thanks for these pleasant words. Don't worry about my mental illness : it's steady :o ??? ::) 8)
I've been tempted by the SPA (or Artemis) LR 700W, but I'm still waiting for someone saying he shot it with satisfaction -in terms of accuracy. BTW this helps me saving some money.
I'd rather be inclined to spend a few more bucks for a Benjamin 397, without fearing the overpainted bore end issue. But I'd personnaly consider necessary to add a LDC adapter (50§) and a Williams peep sight (36$) or an Air Ventury Intermount (32$). Considering that the lowest price I found for a Crosman Benjamin 397 in Europe was 252$, and that I didn't consider the shipping costs, I'll think it twice...
Yves
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Had a thought , does the pellet probe push the pellet far enough past the tranfer port? Sometimes the air blast can dammage a pellets skirt and send it wherever.
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Ultramarine, I tried making a longer probe to seat the pellet further in. Didn't work.
When I pulled the gun to pieces the pea straw inner barrel was glued into the plastic body of the gun. It looked like hot glue but it could have been epoxy. Whatever it was did not adhere very well so there could have been movement at the breach end.
I, like you, tried and tried because I liked the look of the gun. and it was cheap, NZ$200. I see there are a couple still for sale here new but I doubt they will sell.
PS. Nice day here so I am off sailing.
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Had a thought , does the pellet probe push the pellet far enough past the tranfer port? Sometimes the air blast can dammage a pellets skirt and send it wherever.
Yes I did (see my first post). 't wasn't easy at all to keep a very tiny hollow piece of plastic staying stuck to this tiny piece of metal. Was it efficient ? I just felt a bit more comfortable to push the pellet but I wonder if this "foreign object" didn't disturb the air flow inside the decompression chamber. Anyway, no accuracy improvement noticed...
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PS. Nice day here so I am off sailing.
I wish you had some nice time ! Summer's getting close for you.
But, back to the topic : you know this air rifle drives me mad. This (cold) morning, I first shot some pieces of thin steel wool (triple zero) in front of a pellet. Heretic and barbaric method, I know, but this gun is barbaric with me. >:(
Then I tried a few shots with its usually prefered pellets, and they went all over. So I tried shooting some Stoger X-Field (same as H&N Field Target Trophy but cheaper) and my bean-shooter began grouping a little :o. The shot on the right isn't a flyer, it's my fault : I was so happy I relaxed too much.
I think it can't do better and neither can I.
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I have been shamelessly despising my good "Airstrike", a Webley Rebel clone with a wood stock, as I couldn't really get any consistent groups since I bought it. Last week, I added to the multiple adjustments, repairs and tinkering I had performed time after time, once more a full cleaning and some tough medicine recommended here, called barrel "fire-lapping" (thanks DanD). I did it my way with some steel wool, feeling it couldn't shoot any worse. I added a careful but thorough crown polishing, once again (thanks Longhunter). Advices picked up on GTA should never be underestimated.
And to my amazement, this rifle began to shoot straight, I mean as straight as I can. So I put a 4x32 scope on it, and it kept shooting nice!!! Most of you will probably cast a condescendous glance to this paper target but for me, it's the beginning of a new era for this discredited rifle, and a lot of pleasure being able to hit a wine bottle cork 4 times upon 5 from 35 yards.
So never despair of a poor air rifle, it might get really pleasant much later on ;D.
Ah! and I adopted a new method to set the pellet in an appropriate position before shooting, so that its skirt won't be damaged.
1. Drop the pellet in the small aperture of the breech block
2. Cautiously push it with the probe till it disapears. NO MORE
3. Point the barrel down and gently but firmly tap the stock about 5 times
4. Fully close the breech block. You musn't feel any resistance.
Shoot as usual ;). I think it's more efficient than tinkering a probe extension.
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Well. It's about time 😂😂👍
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looking MUCH better and plenty good enough for loads of fun. sometimes putting your head down and trudging along pays off, as it did for you. nice job indeed
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Well. It's about time 😂😂👍
Hmm, time goes on and I'm always cautious with the wheel of time ??? :o ;D... But yes, thank you, at least I can have real fun shooting that rifle now. The fact you told me you knew good rifles of this kind helped me a lot.
looking MUCH better and plenty good enough for loads of fun. sometimes putting your head down and trudging along pays off, as it did for you. nice job indeed
It was a poor tinkerer's job, for sure, and I can't say how long it's going to pay off. But thank you for your encouragement.
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Congratulations! Way to persevere and improve the unruly rifle.
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This morning (in France) I tried once again to shoot the pointed pellets I thought for a while to be the best ones for this rifle. All shots went everywhere : :o :'(. Back to the Stoeger X-Field (same as HN Field Target, 8.64gr, a bit cheaper). Then I could hit my favourite wine bottle cork at every shot from 33 yards ;D. Pheew ! BTW, I got more than 1 spare cork ;)
How d'you say ? Pellet picky ? At least! 8)
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H&N Excite Hammer Pellets are the most accurate out to 35 yards with my Rebel.
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Is it a .177 or a .22 caliber?
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.177 I sold my .22 earlier this year., but it also liked the .22 excite hammers.
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"They are a pretty shoddy gun."
I can not say that about my
.22 Rebel
It is very powerful and shoots
on par with most of my 1322's
But did have to put a different rear sight on it
first one broken trying to lower it enough
the new one was for a daisy 953 and works very well for me.
just my view on my gun
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As for mine, shoddy was indeed the right word.
When I bought it, the wood stock looked nice, the rear sight a bit flimsy but as I tried to shoot, every pellet would clip the bafles in the LDC provided with the rifle, because the muzzle thread wasn't aligned with the barrel bore. That took me months to find the appropriate solution -had to buy a new "muzzle part" with the foresight, the pump pivot pin, etc. , as I had damaged it tinkering. Tried modifying the probe, changing the exhaust valve, slightly polishing the crown, etc, etc. BTW shooting without the LDC didn't improve accuracy but was really loud past 4 strokes.
That's only some days ago, when I disassembled and cleaned all that stuff and did all I did before for the tenth time but with much more energy that it began to shoot straight. Now it can't compare with my faithfull Crosman 2100b but at least it's pleasant to shoot. Always surprising "flyers" every 8 or 10 shots.
The trigger mechanic is really amazing : if I'm not wrong, there are at least 3 springs that work in it, the one that sets the course lenght being the less useful .
Now I'm waiting for some high tide in my wallet to consider trying the Artemis/spa LR700w ::) .
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I am not familiar with your rifle but I have not seen velocity mentioned. Do you have a chronograph to document pellet speeds? Are the speeds consistent? Are the speeds too fast?
Thanks,
Taso
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Taso,
Poor answer for an excellent question : no, I don't have any chrony and I evaluate the power of this air rifle comparing how it punctures various things, like water filled empty food cans, with the way the Crosman 2100 does :o ;D. I tried using and Android app the name of which I can't remember. Had some nice moments of fun (one shot at 1066 fps! :o :o) but it's certainly not reliable.
With those haphazard methods, I dare assume what follows :
1. With a 7.9gr domed pellet, 8 pumps with this rifle approximately equals 10 pumps with a stock Crosman 2100. But it will probably propel a 8.64gr pellet as fast and even faster with ten strokes, when the Crosman 2100 won't be able to, even with 12 strokes or more. Extremely subjective, I admit...
2. Pellet speed are never too fast, except if you try shooting 7gr flat nosed ones (RWS Club) with 8 strokes. The holes in the target show they turn sideways past 10 yards. Nothing surprising.
3. Quality of the barrel aside, I think one of this rifle issues lies in the conception of it "decompression chamber". Although I couldn't disassemble it (the straw barrel is strongly glued to the plastic receiver, and I was not sure I could put things back properly), I could measure that the exhaust port sends the air flow around the pellet and not behind it. That's the reason why I'm now so cautious letting the pellet fall properly, nose ahead an till I can't see it anymore, before pushing it with the probe. That's, to my opinion, the only way to be sure the pellet skirt won't be damaged.
I'll stop here and couldn't recommand you too much to ask really useful opinion from Webley Rebel owners on GTA. May be mine was a wrong number...
Yves
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It would appear that the pellet is being damaged on loading.
Can you check for burrs with a Q tip at the breech?
I think a longer bolt pin would help.
Neil
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Yes, it took some time before I discovered the pellet could frequently be damaged when loading, as there's a significant difference between the receiver "tunnel' diameter and the barrel breech. So if you push the pellet without caution, its skirts gets deformed. But I don't own the proper tool that would allow me to chamfer the barrel breech without further damage.
I had "tinkered" a longer probe, glueing a very small and thin piece of plastic on its end but despite of many attemps I could not achieve anything useful.
I think that besides disassembling, cleaning, adjusting and tightening every part, screw and bolt, and of course getting the silencer aligned with the barrel bore, three things allowed me to obtain at last a decent accuracy (I'm afraid I already wrote that in different posts before):
- Re-crowning the barrel with the felt cone of a Dremel, a good amount of polishing paste and some patience; I had done this once, but not enough ;
- Gently cleaning and polishing pieces 45b and 46b as refered to in the exploded drawing you'll find here attached (Webley Rebel and Norconia P1 are the same rifle at 99,9%); Then reinforcing (stretching a little) the spring refered as n° 47, as if it's too weak, it will let the rifle fire without notice when pumping, even whith the safety on and without touching the trigger blade :o :(
- And finaly, performing the famous "fire-lapping" process I hadn't heard of before I was recommanded to do so in here, so to remove potential burrs inside the barrel.
Well, I consider I succeeded, for now I can shoot this air rifle with a 4X32 scope without 1) getting mad 2) adjusting the scope every five shots ;D
That matches my modest requirements 8)
Yves
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Looks like your barrel is moving, from shot to shot. Check the breech and front sight / barrel band for movement.
Just for giggles, try placing a wedge between the barrel and pump tube, just behind the front sight.
It's either that, or the scope is changing the point of impact due to being jarred by the pumping.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Scott,
Your advice is as simple and legitimate as usual. But as you might have noticed, I already shimmed the outer barrel to the receiver with some self vulcanising tape, and it really can't move. The other end of the outer barrel is even more tightened to that "forepiece" that receives the pump pivot pin, the foresight and a threaded end that can receive an LDC.
So should I reinforce the interlock of the inner and outer barrels, at least at their ends ? I'm not sure of that.
I'm afraid my troubles may lie in
- a likely bad barrel ;
- a real gap between the receiver's pellet guide and the barrels's mouth, regularly damaging the pellets' skirts ;
- a misconception of what I call, missing the appropriate technical words in english, the "detent chamber", where the air decompresses in an unsound way that propells the pellets in inconsistant way.
Wow! I went to the limits of my poor english!!! Did you get me ?
Within a few days, I should receive a reliable metal rear sight I ordered at a local e-bay shop that should adapt to my rifle's dovetail. I'll wait for it before trying the famous "wrap around a tree" method.
Kind regards,
Yves
Hello Yves. Your thread grab my attention. This rifle is very popular in my country, the model based on original sharp innova.
First about safety. This rifle use dump-valve, you cannot "uncock" it after pumping. So never put pellet on the chamber unless you ready to shoot. If somehow you decided not to shoot, shoot anyway. Pumped and pellet in the chamber, I have witness several times that impact from dropped rifle will fire, even with safety on.
You maybe already aware of above fact, but never hurt to hear it again.
Now regarding accuracy issue, I think you are on the right track. Remove the barrel case (plastic) and the barrel itself for inspection. Here's how you do it:
Prepare a pot of water, the depth of the vessel should be able to contain the joint between receiver and barrel case. Put the pot on stove, heat it, but never let it boil. Dunk your bare receiver+barrel part onto the pot, keep the heat on. After approx 5min, try to wiggle plastic barrel case. If it moves, you can now pull the barrel case apart from the receiver. If not, put it back to the pot and try again every minute or two.
After the plastic barrel case is off, the steel barrel can be removed by heating the barrel using small propane torch. Heat the barrel approx 5cm from the receiver, flame away from plastic receiver. Using silicone gloves (don't use your wife baking glove), pull the barrel out of the receiver.
The process is reversible. Just use good quality 15min epoxy to put the barrel and barrel case back to the receiver. Do not use high temp epoxy. Or if it is possible, replace the original barrel with thicker one, without the plastic case.
Now you can inspect the whole part of the barrel and receiver assembly.
For reference, standard rifle should be able to put 1 cm or less grouping from 10m. Velocity on 4 pump should be between 550-600 fps.
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Vincent,
First you have to know something : besides a british expert's blog (http://angryangryguncompany.blogspot.fr/2013/04/sharp-innova-dissassembly-and.html (http://angryangryguncompany.blogspot.fr/2013/04/sharp-innova-dissassembly-and.html)), the ONLY comprehensive information I could find about the way to disassemble properly a Sharp Innova, so the best information about how my Webley Rebel clone was built was in an Indonesian U-tube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wf9-Nn3G5c. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wf9-Nn3G5c.) No language problem : the way that person proceeds is so clear that I could set the sound off. So I can only consider any advice from an indonesian airgunner with interest and respect.
But... As I said more than once in this excellent forum, I'm a poor tinkerer and every time I use a screwdriver without getting wounded, I'm happy. (Well, it happens more and more often... ;)) So let me deliver these humble comments :
- About the safety : it wasn't long before I found this rifle could fire without notice. So I never ever put a pellet in its barrel before I ended pumping it. But it's an excellent thing to remind it to everyone.
- About removing the barrel : I love your recipe but can't help quoting it : "Prepare a pot of water, the depth of the vessel should be able to contain the joint between receiver and barrel case. Put the pot on stove, heat it, but never let it boil. Dunk your bare receiver+barrel part onto the pot, keep the heat on. After approx 5min, try to wiggle plastic barrel case. If it moves, you can now pull the barrel case apart from the receiver. If not, put it back to the pot and try again every minute or two. " Well, usually I love my steaks raw. But you forgot the salt!!! ;D ;D ;D
Then again " the steel barrel can be removed by heating the barrel using small propane torch." Woohoo! :o I got 3 children and 3 grandchildren and I still feel too young to suffer such a terrible end. Then you say "the process is reversible". In my case, I'm not sure... ??? ::)
I'm going to stop kidding and I really thank you for your excellent info : I'm sure some experts will find it really useful here, but I'll wait a little before trying all that.
But I'm eager to know something : as you could disassemble the barrel from the receiver, did you actually find a difference between the barrel's bore diameter and the receiver's one ?
Thanks again for your attention, and have nice shooting !
Yves
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Yves, my recipe did not involved the use of screwdriver so it is surely safe enough ;D
I understand though. It took me about a year (and lots of frustration) before I give up and have the nerves to remove the barrel using above method.
I am not a professional tuner/repair shop, but I've helped my friends removing their barrel on several occasion (totaling maybe 8 or 9 rifles, can't remember the exact figures). So this is not a pro opinion, mind you.
I did not measure the bore/receiver diameter using caliper, so cannot answer whether the size is different. But on 2 of the rifle, I noticed excessive amount of glue left on the joint between end of barrel and receiver when I clean the glue before fitting in new barrel.
My suspicion is this glue not only fill the space around the barrel-receiver wall, but gets pushed toward the end of the barrel, and overflowing the joint. When left to dry, it creates a ridge that prevent pellet moving smoothly from receiver to the barrel when the bolt push it down.
You also mentioned that the barrel or the scope is not pointing toward same direction. There is little play on my rifle where the barrel sits on the receiver. If the glue dried without properly aligning barrel and dovetail, it can cause the problem you mentioned. The longer the barrel (in my case, I replace the barrel with longer aftermarket barrel) the misalignment is more pronounced.