Crosman 130 re-seal questions
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Crosman 130 re-seal questions
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Topic: Crosman 130 re-seal questions (Read 1488 times))
RBQChicken
Expert
Posts: 1648
Real Name: Randy
Crosman 130 re-seal questions
«
on:
January 24, 2018, 02:45:16 PM »
I have a Crosman 130 that used to belong to my Dad. I can't ask him about it because he's gone, but I think he got it in the late 50's or early 60's because if he got it any later than that I would remember him getting it. I never saw him shoot it so I think he was done with it before I was old enough to know about it.
Anyway, he gave it to me sometime in the eighties, and I shot it a little bit then and then just put it away, until now. It's the second variant.
I took it all apart and put all new seals in it but I don't have anything to replace the transport seal with and wonder if an o-ring would work there. I didn't remove the original, in case I can't think of a replacement for it, but it is kind of smooshed down and I doubt if it will seal well when I put the gun back together.
Another thing I noticed is the parts diagram shows a rubber pad at the back end of the air tube, just before the rear plug. Mine didn't have this and I'm wondering if it's necessary. Apparently not, since it worked at one time without it, but I'm wondering if some of them were made without it or was this gun taken apart in the past and that part was lost?
Another question: That metal rear plug has a hole in the back of it that goes clear through. At first I thought it was an oil hole but I don't think you'd want to oil that area of the gun, and if there was a rubber seal there what would be the point?
Oh, yeah, the safety spring and ball bearing fell out. I found the spring, but not the ball bearing. The safety seems to work fine without the spring and bearing so I'm wondering what their purpose was?
One last thing, this is the self-cocking type of valve and I can't for the life of me picture how this thing works. Can anyone please 'splain it to me?
Thanks!
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U.P. of MI
The first time I hit it, I missed. The second time I hit it in the same place.
RBQChicken
Expert
Posts: 1648
Real Name: Randy
Re: Crosman 130 re-seal questions
«
Reply #1 on:
January 25, 2018, 10:07:40 AM »
Okay, I went ahead and put it back together without replacing the old transfer port seal. It does leak there (tissue test). I've noticed on my break barrel air rifles that I gain around 20 fps when fixing a leaky breech seal so maybe I'd gain that much if I replaced this transport seal, but that would then get me to only around 360 fps with 11.9 grain RWS Hobby pellets.
Since I'm not a pistol guy and the only thing I was going to use this for was air-puffing wasps away from my beer mug next summer on my deck I'll probably leave it as is. I'm not even sure 360 fps is enough to kill the wasps.
It was just something to work on and it is cool to have it working again and the only investment was $5 for seals. I re-used the original pump cup since I didn't want to put any more money in it and it was still a nice, tight fit in the pump tube.
It does bug me, though, that I still don't get how that valve works, even though I had the whole thing apart, polished up the (slightly) corroded aluminum parts of it, resealed it, and studied it. Baffling. I should have taken pictures while I had it apart. It's not quite the same as the pics of the earlier model 130 shown on the airgun blog. That one was a manual cocking gun, mine is a self-cocking gun.
One thing that could possibly really improve the power (if I was inclined to put some more money and time into it) would be to replace the original intake valve, which is aluminum and quite long (close to an inch?) with the shorter plastic valve that are shown in reseal kits you see nowadays offered online. The shorter plastic valve would require a longer spring, but I think those come in some of the kits. I'm thinking that would increase the valve capacity, although that would probably mean it would take more pumps to get it up to pressure.
Oh, I forgot to put the safety spring back in when rebuilding it, and it doesn't really make any difference. You can push the safety button as far as it will go to either side and it doesn't come out, so I think the ball bearing and spring are there to merely put a little more tension on the button, and help you to feel when you're on "safe" or "fire" because there is a little groove on each side of the safety rod for the ball bearing to drop into when you push it far enough.
«
Last Edit: January 25, 2018, 10:12:39 AM by RBQChicken
»
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U.P. of MI
The first time I hit it, I missed. The second time I hit it in the same place.
ped
Sharp Shooter
Posts: 548
yes
Re: Crosman 130 re-seal questions
«
Reply #2 on:
January 28, 2018, 04:21:21 PM »
the tp rubber gasket is the same as what's used on modern crosmans it should have a little metal top hat tp that sits against the valve and the gasket sits on top
the rubber i thought was a buffer for when the steel block is released backwards
the hole in the cap i believe was for putting a nail into manually cock the gun it it didn't auto recock after it was fired
the ball and spring are indeed to act as a detent on the safety bar
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RBQChicken
Expert
Posts: 1648
Real Name: Randy
Re: Crosman 130 re-seal questions
«
Reply #3 on:
January 28, 2018, 08:15:56 PM »
Thanks for the reply! Good info.
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U.P. of MI
The first time I hit it, I missed. The second time I hit it in the same place.
bazthespazz
Shooter
Posts: 18
yes
Re: Crosman 130 re-seal questions
«
Reply #4 on:
February 12, 2018, 04:29:42 PM »
The auto cocking mechanism works just like the one in the early 760's, as a matter of fact they use some of the same parts. It uses the first pump of air to push back and lock the valve cap into the trigger. When you pull the trigger it releases the cap which in turn releases the air from the valve through the transfer port and out the barrel. I've rebuilt several 760's and one 130 and they're actually pretty simple and fool proof.
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North bend, Oregon
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Crosman 130 re-seal questions