The 350 Mag's T06 keeps on giving me grey hairs. Advice on how to adjust the thing is available in polar opposites. Either you take out the first stage screw, set the second stage screw to your liking and introduce the first stage screw, OR you take out the second stage screw, set the first stage screw to your liking, and introduce the second stage screw. Take your pick.With the trigger mech in hand, I can dial in quite a nice pull - a light, shortish first stage and a defined second stage wall that breaks with moderate pull - , but this does not neccessarily translate much into the actual pull with the gun put together. It seems the heavy piston pull IRL affects the trigger quite a bit. After two days of trying to make the T06 work, going by the opposing strategies above, I just had a nasty balk fire episode, the trigger going suddenly completely limp, with the sears in a not-quite-released state.Looking into the mechanism via the trigger hole in the stock, I could see that the lever above the trigger and the foremost sear were not engaged - but neither had the gun gone off. A judicious push with a small screwdriver, to make the foremost sear roll over, made the upside down gun go BANG! Way too unreliable and dangerous.I didn't lube the trigger mech when re-assembling it, apart from the freshly-worked underside of the modified lever above the trigger. Factory oils were present everywhere, so no bone-dry steel grinding against steel, either. I don't think this is a lubrication issue. After I had manually assisted the sear to roll, the trigger immediately returned to normalcy. This is a function of the lever above the trigger, the lever being spring-loaded and pressing on the springless trigger, providing tension. This time, the lever didn't spring back, which meant the trigger went loose. I have introduced a first stage reducing grub screw into the trigger housing tab, but it's done right and the adjustment is modest. Obviously, it affects the trigger adjustments, since with it, the trigger top sits at a modified angle against the lever. I can easily make the 350 Mag trigger work per se, but not like anything resembling a good trigger pull. For now, the 2015 T06 has me beat.
Thanks, Hector, again!The sear spring #132 in my gun sits curved, convex to the front when the trigger mech is uncocked, and convex to the rear when the trigger mech is cocked. The spring sits tightly in its fittings on both ends, in the concavity in the bottom of the hook in the upper end. The angles of the fittings make it so that a straight spring (as in the T06 diagram you linked to) seems impossible. It's tough to photograph - i guess if confirmation came that the spring does sit perfectly in line when properly set, I could tell mine isn't good.Using the "peep hole" in the trigger casing I can push the cocked spring into a straighter stance using a thin screwdriver, but as the trigger is pulled, the old concavity returns. Obviously, all this can be only done when the trigger mech is pulled out of the gun. A coilspring pushing straight naturally has a much stronger effect than a coilspring sitting at a curve.Coming back to trigger adjustments, my problem mostly seems to be that I can get a clear two-stage trigger out of this T06 only by letting the trigger blade sit quite far back in the trigger guard. Because of this, many otherwise good setups simply can't make the break before the trigger blade hits the back of the trigger guard, which is kinda ridiculous.When I adjust the trigger so that it sits more forward, which I prefer anyway, I have only been able to get a single-stage type pull that is too light to break for my shooting style. As anyone with a T06 knows, just a little tweak on the trigger screws can make the second stage disappear.So, my options so far are to live with the rearward trigger and dial in a pull that is short enough to make the break with the limited space available. At this stage, I have a semi-reasonable pull, where there is a definite second-stage wall that comes after a somewhat too long first stage, and pulling through the wall the trigger breaks almost instantly and quite cleanly. The pull in total just makes it before the trigger hits the guard. The pull is a little too light for me, but come next weekend, this is what I'm going to use, chronoing the 350 Mag with the new, heavier pellets.
Maybe I'll test out the Beasts and the Monsters of this world once the factory spring approaches old age.
Given that even the Monsters are only a little lighter than the Power Bolts that clocked only 223 m/s / 731 fps, I don't think the Monsters yield a reasonable .177 cal MV.Silverpoints weigh in at 11.57 gr., but they are non-domes, borderline nasty to chamber in my gun, and have a poor BC. Other than that, weight-appropriate pellets seem non-existent.
I'm not sure the temper was warranted here, but anyway.One thing that gives me doubts about the Monsters is the 4.52 head size (the only size I see them available with). Given that the JSB Daystates with 4.52 heads were a poor, evidently a leaky, fit in my 350 Mag. They did fall into the leade without any resistance, as a first hint, corroborated by performance.