And if waxing is still king, this stuff might be even better than Treewax, as Treewax is a blend whereas this appears to be 100% carnuba, plus a hard liquifier:
Quote from: Cableaddict on April 21, 2021, 02:50:35 AMAnd if waxing is still king, this stuff might be even better than Treewax, as Treewax is a blend whereas this appears to be 100% carnuba, plus a hard liquifier:It says "combustable", maybe from the turpentine, so watch out for deseling.Hunter
Scott. If you dint mind, whats your preferred 400 grit lapping compound?I have a 700mm Taipan barrel showing up soon and would like to give it the full treatment.Thanks.
Quote from: RDB on April 21, 2021, 02:08:45 PMScott. If you dint mind, whats your preferred 400 grit lapping compound?I have a 700mm Taipan barrel showing up soon and would like to give it the full treatment.Thanks.I'll leave it that .... sorry
While others have played and found successes doing it other ways, this ABOVE is what MOTORHEADS AG TUNING has done for years and it works !! Results personally & professionally speak volumes.Scott S
Quote from: Motorhead on April 21, 2021, 02:16:06 PM Quote from: RDB on April 21, 2021, 02:08:45 PMScott. If you dint mind, whats your preferred 400 grit lapping compound?I have a 700mm Taipan barrel showing up soon and would like to give it the full treatment.Thanks.I'll leave it that .... sorry Thanks for sharing as much as you have already! You guys are giving me more ideas of what to do with time I don't have I have seen Renaissance wax mentioned a few times and thought I'd chime in on too. The clock guys love the stuff as a pure hard wax with a simple solvent to make application possible. Some will use it instead of lacquer on polished brass, which is why I bought it. Carnauba wax is a hard biological wax (as opposed to a petroleum based wax like Renaissance); the different products out there using it will do so to different proportions to solvents and other waxes to make their blend. (Scott named his favorite above.)Reading elsewhere about waxes on the outside of guns was almost a draw--everyone had a favorite, but those that got technical came back to carnauba and Renaissance frequently. For what it is worth, carnauba wax gives a shinier finish than Renaissance. Cost was also brought up--Renaissance isn't cheap, but it is comparable to a couple ounces of JB bore cleaner from what I see. (And that little 65 gram can will last quite a while too.)
Quote from: HunterWhite on April 21, 2021, 07:02:33 AMQuote from: Cableaddict on April 21, 2021, 02:50:35 AMAnd if waxing is still king, this stuff might be even better than Treewax, as Treewax is a blend whereas this appears to be 100% carnuba, plus a hard liquifier:It says "combustable", maybe from the turpentine, so watch out for deseling.Hunter The carrier that liquefies the wax allowing application QUICKLY evaporates. ZERO chance of dieseling IMO.Being the individual who presented BORE WAXING to the air gun community unintentionally a few years ago. ( as a tuner had been doing so for many years ) it's process came to public knowledge after years of tidbit parts and pieces of the process finally culminated as a W T F is the process and the why for being shared with a few others who matter of fact asked. Had no problem with it being shared, tho was not going to state such info openly.There are some KEY aspects of whats required and here is list as i feel is priority.PROVEN barrel that is by in large accurate.LAPPING of bore being in many instances more aggressive than JB paste offers.Best finish provided by @ 400 grit lap compounds and NOT high polished !Leade & Crown + transfer path ( PCP's ) correctly done.CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN bore after said work ... I'm talking near surgical clean !! *Personally use NAPTHA making sure Zero oils or solvents used previous are on bore surface or within the microscopic fretting of bore surface.LIBERAL Tre-wax on a patch using a round jag tip & hard / coated cleaning rod having patch a SNUG FIT TO BOREBack & forth strokes from either end ... Mop the bore wet with wax !!!* What we're doing is burnishing the wax INTO the microscopic frets in the bores surface filling the microscopic voids pellet lead gets into and sticks on.LET DRY for a 1/2 hour min in warm weather. longer is actually better. We want wax to harden !Wipe excess wax off crown and leade / transfer areas.NO NEED TO PUT A DRY PATCH DOWN BORE ..... Shoot a few pellets and any excess wax in the bore instantly removed !!While others have played and found successes doing it other ways, this ABOVE is what MOTORHEADS AG TUNING has done for years and it works !! Results personally & professionally speak volumes.Scott S