I've used Krazzy Glue, the thin stuff on all my mounting points of wood. Then used either conical washers or Nord-loc washers under my screw heads. Still not sure what to do with the little trigger guard screw on Rekords.Love your cups, well done. -Y
I have this issue. I’m thinking of drilling out the stock screw holes and glue in dowels. Then drill the dowel for mounting screw. This would add a lot of wood under screw head & washer. It also would change the direction of the wood fibers, so less “ wood crush”. Why the manufacturer drills them so deep is beyond me.
As for the stock screws , the MAC1 stock screw kit seems a perfect fix but there never in stock. I'll keep torquing them down to 21.1 when the kit is available I would definitely install to protect the stock cut outs.
Just checked and the stock screws in my new HW95 R9 are M5-80, not M6.I'll check the older R9 tonight.
Hector-Medina:Thinking about your comments on the soft versus hard bedding. I follow your logic about the softer beech wood providing a bit softer cushion than harder woods like walnut. I support the idea that cushioning needs to be done similar to that in the Diana 54 that uses metal-rubber-metal contacts to help manage vibrations. It also ties into need for a harmonic stabilizer to manage the vibrations for best accuracy. The washers and superglue to re-enforce the wood works to stabilize the wood and distribute the load in the wood to minimize its compression is a great approach and probably enough for the life of a rifle. I wonder if using a softer pillar bed system with rubber washers to manage the vibrations would work to improve the loosening problem being addressed by the original poster. "How do I keep the stock screws from loosening and impacting accuracy during normal shooting?" Overtightening and compression of the wood is what he is trying to control so the screws stay. tight.Cheers!!! A great approach to problem solving!!Perhaps a "pillar system" consisting of a washer followed by a plastic pillar epoxyed in place that can compress a bit, followed by another washer or the base of the trigger guard would work. I actually made such bushings out of a chunk of a plastic cutting board as a spacer once. Not for this kind of service but it did work!!!
Quote from: Keen on September 20, 2021, 08:43:57 AMJust checked and the stock screws in my new HW95 R9 are M5-80, not M6.I'll check the older R9 tonight.All my R9s and the HW95 have coarse thread M5x0.08mm screws with flat washer and star lock wqasher for the stock forearm.
Quote from: nced on September 20, 2021, 10:48:48 AMQuote from: Keen on September 20, 2021, 08:43:57 AMJust checked and the stock screws in my new HW95 R9 are M5-80, not M6.I'll check the older R9 tonight.All my R9s and the HW95 have coarse thread M5x0.08mm screws with flat washer and star lock wqasher for the stock forearm.I thought that I'd read somewhere that the HW95\R9 stock screws were M6-1, but perhaps I made a mistake. nced, if the star washer is clamped between the flat washer and the screw head, while not as protective of the wood as installing cups, wouldn't that significantly mitigate compression of the stock wood, and eliminate the munchy bit?