What's funny to me is you look up high% moly paste and it's seems easy to get everywhere but in the u.s.a. go figure we got it seems good, right?For the spring loctite makes a 65% so your think loctite good ol American made company and should find it where loctite stuff is sold , nope if you were in India, Netherlands, Russia,,ect you can LOCTITE LB 8012 contains 65% molybdenum disulfide for maximum lubricityAnd it ain't 20+$ for a 2 oz tube .lol...
Quote from: A moron on September 29, 2021, 12:13:44 PMWhat's funny to me is you look up high% moly paste and it's seems easy to get everywhere but in the u.s.a. go figure we got it seems good, right?For the spring loctite makes a 65% so your think loctite good ol American made company and should find it where loctite stuff is sold , nope if you were in India, Netherlands, Russia,,ect you can LOCTITE LB 8012 contains 65% molybdenum disulfide for maximum lubricityAnd it ain't 20+$ for a 2 oz tube .lol...Shouldn’t be hard to get, and half the price you describe. It can be had in a 2 oz. can or even a syringe. I get it in the can from Amazon at $9 & change but it can be had at Sentry & Midway and a dozen other suppliers: https://sentrytactical.com/sentry-hi-slip-grease/
Thanks JonALMAGARD 3752 grease demo videos below.Rethinking a springer system that includes a spring guide, how does grease that is on the spring get onto the compression tube ID? It would have to splash. This Almagard grease is very sticky and splash resistant - see the mousetrap splash testing video below.I can see grease applied to the rear of the piston OD spreading to where the seal can start sweeping it into the high pressure/temperature space. But when applied to the spring ID, and even OD, the grease can only reach the comp tube if the spring is very kinked, or the grease splashes, or its oil component runs.Thanks to Jon's input I see the risk of using an appropriate grease to damp spring vibration, causing dieseling, as minimized. Sure, the objection stands that POI swill shift with ambient/operating temperature. But the idea that you are just looking to destroy your springer if you use tune-in-a-tube on the spring seems rendered moot.Because I have so many springers, I simply don't shoot the ones that have irritating spring buzz. So, the idea that by damping that out with a lube tune, I have destroyed the utility, is also moot. There is no utility in a springer one has, but never shoots. Perhaps it is time to lube tune my R9 - the harshest spring buzzer I have. Which is odd because the smoothest springers I have (out of the box) are an R7 and an HW95.The HW50 that I lubed tuned arrived at the same time as the HW95. Both of them surprised me, but for opposite reasons. While in hand, I was motivated to smooth out the disappoint buzzy HW50. Having done this successfully with a CZ 634, I just repeated it with the HW50, with a similar result - just took away the spring buzz, but in the case of the HW50, removed the up and to the side muzzle jump that the HW95 did not have.If Pyramyd Air is selling this red grease, then it is probably better than the molly CV joint grease I happened to have on hand...
Wow, RonThanks for taking this on. Removing Krytox and replacing that with cheap grease seems "backwards". If you do this, you will be able to tell us if there are indeed dragons, and if so, how large they are.If you primary goal is to quell spring twang (rather than test sticky grease), then adding a plastic heat shrink tube over the spring guide might be an alternative to try. Or better yet, turning a custom guide from one piece of material.What sells grease as a de-twanger is that you don't have to strip the airgun (unless you already have Krytox). Or, that you don't have the means to make a tight fitting spring guide.An objective study into the effect of grease on thermal velocity stability and vertical stringing will be very useful to this forum. We don't have a lot of real data about this. I believe that Ed (nced) has tried several springer lubes before settling on Krytox. He has quantified pellet drop changes as a function of temperature with regular grease at 55 yards, with at least one of his HW95s, shooting FT. Perhaps Ed might weigh in...
It works great for me. My HW95 had a lot of buzz when new. A little Tune in a Lube and all is quiet. I have used in on several of my springers all with great results.
With the tune in a tube method, just put a little on the spring at a time, then shoot it for several cycles, add a bit more if the offending noise is still present.
Ok I'm done with my popcorn. First off I've never used "Tune in a tube" and have no idea of its chemical properties are. I can tell you slot tuning or taking the gun apart and lube tuning with moly paste or tar (open gear grease) has worked for some and not for others. It is kind of a temporary fix that can lead to a few issues that has been well pointed out by several people here.Most thick greases other Krytox are temperature sensitive. They stiffen in cold weather and thin in hot weather. This will change your POI and zero. When shooting continously friction and the heat of compression can thin thick greases from the time you started and cause shifting POI. and dats the name of that tune!!!As Subs pointed out, lubes can and will migrate. Even behind the piston seal it's a violent place inside a springer, parts are flying and bouncing around and even the air pressure changes drastically when the gun is shot. So lube will be slung everywhere. Piston seals are tapered to seal best going forward under pressure. They don't seal well going backwards so it only takes a little too much lube to overload the seal and get in front of it. Especially if you cock the gun quickly which can create a slight vacuum in compression chamber and pull in fumes and grease from the spring chamber. Lube and it's fumes in front of the seal will burn from the heat of compression. This is called dieseling. When it's really excessive and violent its called detonation. A little dieseling is normal, a lot is not. Yes new Weihrauchs smoke and diesel a bit when new as many new springers do. It can take a short time or a long time to clear up. Sometimes it never clears up and the seals burn through. There's been an unfortunate rash of that lately. Weihrauch QC has been poor lately. In any event springers are best run with very little lube and spring vibrations dampened with various methods of mechanical control like better fitting guides and properly sized piston sleeves. This can be done at home or professionally depending on one's abilities and budget. With a slot tune or lube tune the excess lube and gas off inevitably finds its way into the compression chamber and can cause excessive dieseling and possibly detonation. Here's a few pictures to give you an idea of the long-term effects. Note this was a "tuned gun" when my friend got it and after a few years of service it met a premature demise. You can see the piston seal is burnt through and one end of the spring is completely bent and collapsed from dieseling and detonation. Life is already hard on these parts when perfectly installed and lubed. Adding extra lube to deaden vibration is literally adding fuel to the fire. It might work for a while but there's a good chance you're gonna have to replace some parts sooner than if you left it alone. Granted those parts would likely be changed in real tune anyway, so if you're really not happy with the buzz you got nothing to lose by trying a slot tune.Good luck with whatever you decide.
Ron,The grease between the spring ID and guide are what reduces twang. Grease on the spring OD may help too, if the piston ID is not far away - else it does not do much good. Anyway, my suggestion is to insert the guide into the rear of the spring completely, before rifle assembly, and to apply grease to the guide, between the coils of the relaxed spring. That way, the grease starts exactly where it is wanted.If you apply grease to the guide, and then slide on the spring, the spring my wipe the grease so that the bulk of the grease's average position is too far back. I suppose it is a matter of how much grease you start with. If you apply a lot of grease, then such wiping is less of a concern, but you won't know how little grease can be used to do the job. Also, there is a question of where does excess grease go? That is not where one wants to start the experiment.Anyway, it is your experiment and you should run it a you see fit.