GTA
Target Shooting Matches, Discussion & Events => Field Target Gates => Hunter Class Field Target => Topic started by: ReedOH on September 22, 2020, 01:56:04 PM
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I just got my first air rifle cleaned, set up, and sighted in this past weekend. It's an HW95 in .22 caliber. I'd like to enter a few Field Target events next year and wondered how best to practice.
Do most shooters shoot the entire match at 16X in hunter class? My deer rifle has a 1.5 - 6X scope on it which is just about perfect here in New Hampshire. I felt really shakey at 16x on Sunday.
I haven't shot with that kind of magnification before.
I'd like to practice for the events, and hopefully get used to whatever magnification is used.
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Will make the assumption you will be shooting in the "Hunter" class ... AKA: "Hunter Piston"
In this class 16X is the MAXIMUM one may use even if the scope has higher magnification.
You can adjust it lower any time you wish. In actually shooting a match only time most ever do this is for the Forced lanes such as Offhand or Kneeling.
Scopes "PARALLAX" focus which we use to range find has a shallower depth of field higher in magnification you go making the use of the 16X limit WHERE YOU WANT TO RANGE FIND as well SHOOT !!
Then you have the SCOPE and if a SFP or FFP ( Second or First focal plane ) SFP scopes and the D.O.P.E. sheet made for hold over will only be correct at the X magnification you calibrated it for being ideally at 16X. Where a FFP one D.O.P.E. data sheet works at all X magnifications.
Finding stability is a TECHNIQUE class all its own and there are many ways to get more stable that somewhat revolve around body type ( Short & stumpy or Tall with long legs / arms )
Sitting on a TRI leg stool is far more stable than a Bucket .... Quick adjust shooting sticks such as "Trigger sticks " or "Bog-Pods" make it a lot easier to achieve a natural point of aim and a consistent shooting position.
GO TO YOUR FIRST MATCH AND HAVE FUN ... watch others and ask questions. Seek out those who have played the game for a spell and score well, they will if willing to help you be the key to a rapid improvement in your overall skill set for this game we call Field Target.
Scott S
SVFTC Match Director
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I just got my first air rifle cleaned, set up, and sighted in this past weekend. It's an HW95 in .22 caliber. I'd like to enter a few Field Target events next year and wondered how best to practice.
Do most shooters shoot the entire match at 16X in hunter class? My deer rifle has a 1.5 - 6X scope on it which is just about perfect here in New Hampshire. I felt really shakey at 16x on Sunday.
I haven't shot with that kind of magnification before.
I'd like to practice for the events, and hopefully get used to whatever magnification is used.
Part of the "field target game" includes scope rangefinding to determine the amount of holdover needed for distances other than the "near zero and "far zero". Here is a target I shot a few years ago to determine the trajectory of a certain tune level from 10 yards to 50 yards............
(https://i.imgur.com/a7azSngl.jpg)
As you can see, using a 30 yard zero my "first zero" was at about 17 yards and my "second zero" was at almost 35 yards. At 10 yards the poi was 3/8" low and at 50 yards the poi was about 1 1/2" low. Some 10 yard field target killzones are only about 3/8"-1/2" diameter which means a miss (or at least a splitter) using a 30 yard zero. The 50 yard group is about 1 1/4" ctc and 1 1/2" low so holding "dead on" would most likely be a miss (or at least a splitter). The "name of the game" is to judge the actual distance to the target and accurately compensate by "holding over" (in hunter class anyway). Even at 16x the depth of field isn't very shallow and pretty "iffy" at distances past 35 yards or so. The open class shooters have claimed that a mag of at least 24x is the minimum for a useful rangefind past 35 yards, and especially past 50 yards. Generally it seems to me that 32x is the minimum power for a good rangefind. When I first started shooting the hunter class the max allowed scope power setting during a match was 12x, however a few years ago the max scope power setting for hunter class field target was raised to 16x. IMHO, the depth of field of a 1.5 - 6X scope is so deep that it's practically useless for accurate scope rangefinding, plus the loopy trajectory of a .22 cal HW95 requires even more accurate "range guestimation and holdover" than a flatter shooting .177 pellet. You mentioned that the 1.5-6x scope was from a "deer rifle", depending on the scope it may not be "internally hardened" for the unique two direction HW95 recoil and the scope definitely needs to "springer rated". Years ago I was using a Weaver V16 scope on my .177 R9 and after a while the reticle literally started "flopping around" when the gun was moved. I sent the scope to Weaver for repair and the repaired (or replaced) scope developed a broked reticle wire. I also used a 6x Burris Compact scope for a while and the R9 also destroyed that scope. My brother also mounted the same type scope on his .177 R9 and it "shot loose". After Burris returned his repaired scope (took 6 weeks!) he only used it on his .22 rimfire. Anywhoo.......with a recoiling piston gun like the HW95 it's wise to get a scope from a vendor with a good customer service department.
Years ago I played with a .20 cal R9 and then fitted the gun with a .22 barrel thinking that it would be better for squirrel hunting. What I learned was that out to my 30 yard zero distance it didn't matter if I used a .177, .2 or .22 barrel, however past the zero distance the proper holdover was too critical for my "range guestimation abilities" and the larger cal actually turned a "reliable at 40ish yard squirrel getter" into a "reliable at no more than 35 yard" squirrel hunter.
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ALWAYS establish your zero range at pellet apex of flight which in a .22 cal and the speed you will be shooting and scope mounted low as practical .... that ZERO will fall likely in the 23-26 yard range.
YOU NEVER ever ever want to have 2 zero holds .. this miens if you did you would need to be HOLDING UNDER between them !! talk about screwing with your head !!! BAD bad bad.
Ideally with a single zero you can hold pretty much dead on +/- 5 yards or so of your zero. ALL OTHER distance will have some amount of HOLD OVER that Increases as you move closer from the zero range and Increases again as you move further away from the zero range.
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Scott,
As a past NATIONAL CHAMPION, we are still waiting for your pamphlet, giving us your years of experience in print.
Winter is coming buddy, so get to writing and typing.
I will even help with the typing and photography.
That I do very well, unlike my performance on the FT range..
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Scott, Ed, thank you for the information.
I took a look at an ALPS OutdoorZ three legged stool that states that it is 16 inches tall. Is that the kind of tri legged stool that you were referring to? Also, Trigger Sticks offers one, two, and three legged shooting sticks. Which configuration is used the most?
Is there a general scope magnification that most people dial down to when they shoot the standing, or kneeling lanes?
The scope that I bought for the HW95 is a second focal plane. Now that I've read your feedback, I can see that a first focal plane scope might be a bit friendlier to work with. I got the impression when I was looking into what I should get, that most people were shooting Field Target with second focal plane scopes.
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Reed,
I use a Primos Gen I stick.
No, you can’t get them anymore.
Gen II and III can be used with a small modification.
I sit on a five gallon bucket but sometimes a shorter seat is better.
I am 75 years old, 6 ft 3.5”, 285 lbs..
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The HEIGHT of the seat you shoot from is best determined by how tall or short you are, leg & arm reach.
Your ideal position will have your elbows on your knees and gun comfortable held with the YOKE of BIPOD out as far as you can on rifles fore stock.
The height of your seat changes the ratio of butt to knee. If seats to high you can't get your elbows locked in on the knees .... So one wants to generally shoot from a seat LOWER than a bucket. I'm 6' with long legs and arms & shoot off a tri-stool of just 14" and could go shorter BUT NOT any taller.
RULES dictate BIPOD or Mono Pod .... TRIPODs are not allowed ( unless a leg removed ) which is not stable anyways or desired to loose the vertical support of 2 opposed legs where 2 canted is not stable.
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Scott, Ed, thank you for the information.
I took a look at an ALPS OutdoorZ three legged stool that states that it is 16 inches tall. Is that the kind of tri legged stool that you were referring to? Also, Trigger Sticks offers one, two, and three legged shooting sticks. Which configuration is used the most?
Is there a general scope magnification that most people dial down to when they shoot the standing, or kneeling lanes?
The scope that I bought for the HW95 is a second focal plane. Now that I've read your feedback, I can see that a first focal plane scope might be a bit friendlier to work with. I got the impression when I was looking into what I should get, that most people were shooting Field Target with second focal plane scopes.
"I took a look at an ALPS OutdoorZ three legged stool that states that it is 16 inches tall. Is that the kind of tri legged stool that you were referring to?
As long as surface of the shooter box is firm enough to suppport the tips of the legs with your body weight, all is good. I personally bought a "bucket" and swivel seat from a Gander Mountain decades ago to use as a shooting seat. I then cut off the bottom of the bucket so the height would allow me to place both elbows on my knees while aiming with the gun on cross sticks. Initially I cut a disk and a ring from a piece of 1x12 pine board to support the seat shell. The bottom ring was sized to the OD of the bucket where cut and the ring was sized to the ID of the bucket, then the bucket was screwed to the inner ring. This way my weight on the "bucket shell" was supported by the bottom disk and the screws into the side of the ring held the bottom to the shell. I used the bucket with a flat bottom disk for a while but found that on uneven shooter box ground that the disk was too unstable due to tottering a "high spot". Then I made another ring to go under the bottom disk and the "tottering on a high spot" issue was solved. Here are a few pics.......
(https://i.imgur.com/1Re8In4l.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/vz4kPvCl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4uFPopSl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/2C4mJc5l.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/vNTEv9Ql.jpg)
"rigger Sticks offers one, two, and three legged shooting sticks. Which configuration is used the most?"
Three legged sticks aren't allowed for hunter class field target unless one of the legs can be "folded up" and inoperative. My brother always used a two legged Triger stick whereas I used/use a two legged Stony Point cross stick, again bought at a Gander Mountain a few decades ago...........
(https://i.imgur.com/LYJJfBxl.jpg)
"Is there a general scope magnification that most people dial down to when they shoot the standing, or kneeling lanes?"
Those with more current info please correct if I'm wrong because I would prefer to turn down the scope power for "standing lanes" but I was told that adjustment after starting wasn't allowed.
"I can see that a first focal plane scope might be a bit friendlier to work with"
I prefer the "second focal plane" because the reticle "stays the same" regardless of the focus distance which makes it easy to base my "holdover" on symbols added to my AO or sidewheel..........
(https://i.imgur.com/1PlpIEHl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/urnuA18l.jpg)
Anywhoo....whatever works best for you is the way to go.
As a side note...........
Don't get too hung up on HFT minutia at first. Simply take what you have (run with what ya brung) and have some fun shooting a few matches. That way you'll get a handle on what works for you and what doesn't! I's very difficult to buy a "perfect" HFT rig that doesn't need to be updated as experience grows!
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Thank you guys. The pictures helped a lot.
Ed, your bucket modification was pretty creative.
Frank, what is the modification that you referred to regarding the later generation Trigger Sticks?
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The sticks have a way of splaying out sideways.
The Gen I could only go so far.
The Gen II (I have never seen Gen III) will go completely flat.
I guess so you could use them in a prone position.
The owners put a piece of metal close to the top of the legs so they only splay out so far.
Too, the shortest legs are two short and the highest legs are too high.
We remove the rubber bumpers and slide 18” of PVC over the legs to make them the correct height...
When you go to a match you will see some Gen I and II and you will understand what I mean..
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I found a 13 inch tall 3 legged stool made by Eureka for $15. It didn't have the webbing reinforcement straps down by the feet like the ones in your pictures, but if it seems too flimsy I can probably fine a way to add them.
Also, I ordered a gen 3 Trigger Sticks bipod. It looks like they addressed the infinite leg angle in the tripod version, but the bipod head looks different in the pictures. I guess we'll see when it gets here.
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Reed, I aam sure if you get a five gallon bucket from Lowe’s or Home Depot along with a padded camouflage seat from your local sportsman’s store you will be fine. Amazon sells the padded seat too..
Just remember try and get a seat and sticks the correct height so you can rest both of your elbows on your knees.
Look at Ed’s and my pictures..
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The sticks have a way of splaying out sideways.
The Gen I could only go so far.
The Gen II (I have never seen Gen III) will go completely flat.
I guess so you could use them in a prone position.
The owners put a piece of metal close to the top of the legs so they only splay out so far.
Too, the shortest legs are two short and the highest legs are too high.
We remove the rubber bumpers and slide 18” of PVC over the legs to make them the correct height...
When you go to a match you will see some Gen I and II and you will understand what I mean..
"The owners put a piece of metal close to the top of the legs"
For my first season of hunter class field target I used a home made cross stick consisting of a couple wooden dowels, a bolt with washers and a wing nut, and a strap of leather to saddle the R9, and a cord to limit the "splay"...........
(https://i.imgur.com/3T3EEzdl.jpg)
I later bought a set of Stony Point cross sticks and this is the minimum and maximum "splay" of the legs...........
(https://i.imgur.com/LYJJfBxl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/7D3HBRAl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/1Re8In4l.jpg)
Anywhoo, no issues for the hunter class field target matches I've attended using the Stony Point cross stick.........
(https://i.imgur.com/vz4kPvCl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/04KYRsUl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/GexJKzMl.jpg)
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I've been using a 5 gallon bucket that I had in the garage. It's a bit too tall to get that locked in position that you guys described. If I hadn't found the 13" stool I would have modified the bucket. I do like that the bucket can be used to carry tools, and pellets etc.
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I've been using a 5 gallon bucket that I had in the garage. It's a bit too tall to get that locked in position that you guys described. If I hadn't found the 13" stool I would have modified the bucket. I do like that the bucket can be used to carry tools, and pellets etc.
"used to carry tools, and pellets etc."
Yep, and even a snack/drink when still hunting squirrels. ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/NIxWQ2wl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/NMtg0Ddl.jpg)
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You just need to add duct tape and skeeter repellent, and you'll be good to go 👍 .
I like it. Where did you find the green bucket?
Hunter
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You just need to add duct tape and skeeter repellent, and you'll be good to go 👍 .
I like it. Where did you find the green bucket?
Hunter
A couple decades ago when living in West Virginia I went to a Gander Mountain store in Hagerstown, MD and bought the Stony Point cross stick, the "green bucket" and the swivel seat, all at one time.
I just did a "camouflaged bucket search" and found these similar buckets and swivel seats by Amazon retailers.........
https://www.amazon.com/Leaktite-05GLCMO-5-Gal-Camouflage-Plastic/dp/B00NO1GNP8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=camo+bucket&qid=1601262585&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/Leaktite-05GLCMO-5-Gal-Camouflage-Plastic/dp/B00NO1GNP8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=camo+bucket&qid=1601262585&sr=8-2)
https://www.amazon.com/BIG-GAME-Muddy-360-Degree-Swivel/dp/B0037QALHG/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=camo+bucket&qid=1601262585&sr=8-32 (https://www.amazon.com/BIG-GAME-Muddy-360-Degree-Swivel/dp/B0037QALHG/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=camo+bucket&qid=1601262585&sr=8-32)
Since I'm a short squatty shooter the unmodified bucket was too tall to allow my elbows to rest on my knees while the R9 was on cross sticks so I cut off the top "ridges" and the bottom. I cut a wooden disk and two wooden rings for the bottom. The disk was sized to the outside of the bucket shell so the shell was supported by the disk. The inside ring was sized to fit inside the shell and glued to the disk for attaching with screws. The bottom ring was the same diameter as the disk and also glued/screwed to the disk. All the 'bottom parts" were painted green like this.............
(https://i.imgur.com/vNTEv9Ql.jpg)
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Both the 13" Eureka stool, and the Trigger Sticks bipod showed up in the mail this morning. I am 5' 10" with long arms, and legs. The stool was just right to get the locked in position you guys described.
The trigger sticks don't have an adjustment to control the leg angle. They have a physical stop at about 120 degrees included angle between both legs when fully expanded. At least on the living room floor, they seem to hold via friction from the feet at the angle they dropped to when I pull the trigger adjustment. I'll watch and see if I can find examples of the modification you mentioned for the Gen 2.
I tried sitting my HW95 on the fork, right at the barrel pivot screws. They are the most forward visual cue on this rifle that I can use to keep my mounting position uniform.
I've got to say that it felt like I was cheating after my experience with the too tall bucket this past weekend. Offhand at 16X looks pretty intimidating in comparison to how steady this position seems.
Thanks for the guidance.
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Both the 13" Eureka stool, and the Trigger Sticks bipod showed up in the mail this morning. I am 5' 10" with long arms, and legs. The stool was just right to get the locked in position you guys described.
The trigger sticks don't have an adjustment to control the leg angle. They have a physical stop at about 120 degrees included angle between both legs when fully expanded. At least on the living room floor, they seem to hold via friction from the feet at the angle they dropped to when I pull the trigger adjustment. I'll watch and see if I can find examples of the modification you mentioned for the Gen 2.
I tried sitting my HW95 on the fork, right at the barrel pivot screws. They are the most forward visual cue on this rifle that I can use to keep my mounting position uniform.
I've got to say that it felt like I was cheating after my experience with the too tall bucket this past weekend. Offhand at 16X looks pretty intimidating in comparison to how steady this position seems.
Thanks for the guidance.
"They are the most forward visual cue on this rifle that I can use to keep my mounting position uniform"
I've been testing out a few different "gun on cross stick" resting positions like these in the pics, plus I've also tried resting the gun on the cross sticks at the balance point close to the trigger guard.............
(https://i.imgur.com/vz4kPvCl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/04KYRsUl.jpg)
A couple observations were that the steadiest position FOR ME through the scope was resting the gun at the front stock mounting screws. When I rested the gun near the balance point, I READ that the gun can be more consistent due to less "muzzle weight" resting on the cross stick which affects the poi. Even at only 18 yards upstairs the poi is higher using the "balance point support" vs the "front stock screw support". I also noticed that using the balance point support minor movements on the bucket are magnified through the scope due to the shorter "pivot point" between the shoulder and cross stick.
Anywhoo........keep testing different "holds and support positions" till you find one that works well with your "shooting style", then when you find a good combination practice your shooting form to develop consistency. To help me with my consistence I made up a few printed targets with 30, 50 and 100 bulls where the game is to at least hit the "circle" with each shot...........
(https://i.imgur.com/4yOFU4ol.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/QtULWrXl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/52UgosUl.jpg)
I created the targets to fit a standard 8 1/2" x 11" letter format and find acceptably clean holes (even with dome pellets) when printing on 90# to 110# card stock.......
(https://i.imgur.com/KXFo5Sol.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/qG4o7sJl.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/SHRJFFYl.png)
Here are some odd-ball targets..........
(https://i.imgur.com/is7YTzEl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4ywz5Qql.jpg)
I stole and then modified these ideas........
(https://i.imgur.com/4MeUcqhl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EuQhk4fl.jpg)
How about some bulls with an "aiming circle inside the bulls".........
(https://i.imgur.com/IG96lKrl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/g34zl3zl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eD2RFEnl.jpg)
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I practiced with the Gen 3 bipod and found that getting set for a shot was OK, but cocking the gun and setting up for follow up shots was frustrating. At least one of the legs would flare to a different angle. Repositioning was very time consuming. It looks as though placing a 5/16" shim in the joints at the top of the legs will limit leg splay to ~40 degrees. I think that will make it easier to reposition for follow up shots.
Does anyone have a picture of the modification that field target shooters are making to the Gen 2 sticks?
Ed, Thank you for the target examples.
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Bruce,
You are on the right on track.
I have seen some sticks where a piece of metal was attached where you state.
It was about 1” x 2” if I recall.
Just to limit the amount of flare.
Too, some people tell me they use hose clamps to do the same thing.
As Ed stated he made his own sticks when he started as did I.
I bought a set of Gen II sticks in Reno coming back from Wyoming antelope hunt.
I shot two or three matches with them til I found the Gen I sticks.
I found one more set and gave them to a kid in Davis, CA who was starting out in FT.
He stopped shooting, though.
Pity.
Here is the set I made vs the Gen I.
I keep the home made sticks in the truck in case some one new shows up at a match or someone else forgot their sticks..
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Thanks for the picture Frank. I took a gamble on the Gen. 3's. I could only find video reviews of the Gen. 3 tripods. The head on those had indexed positions for the legs. One position limited the splay, or flare of the legs to about what yours look like. The other position let them flare wide like mine do. I thought maybe that was part of the Gen. 3 mod for the bipods as well, but it wasn't. If I had known, I probably would have made my own like you guys did.
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Well a few years ago, while shooting a FT match Ed's Brother let me try his gen 1 sticks, prior to that all I had was home brew sticks, and a couple mono pods OK for hunting in dense areas, then I recently got some gen 3 I think, and all I can say is I need to make the mod, but they are usable with some added effort.
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I use this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Quest-B38-Shooting-Bipod/dp/B006LZNQMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Vanguard+Quest+B38+Shooting+Stick&qid=1601774436&sr=8-1 (https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Quest-B38-Shooting-Bipod/dp/B006LZNQMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Vanguard+Quest+B38+Shooting+Stick&qid=1601774436&sr=8-1)
These are also offered in 62 inch, V or U at the top.
https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Scout-B62-Shaped-Rotating/dp/B001LK7Y7A/ref=bmx_of_54?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001LK7Y7A&pd_rd_r=7ce7c10d-8049-46bf-ba7f-118d7a32d5ac&pd_rd_w=jZ2qq&pd_rd_wg=VV2my&pf_rd_p=4164a36b-c9c1-4c08-9095-df09622e9ba8&pf_rd_r=GADRVAHMRKBXWBFD7JNT&psc=1&refRID=333RHJHXB7T8FS3E8M9C (https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Scout-B62-Shaped-Rotating/dp/B001LK7Y7A/ref=bmx_of_54?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001LK7Y7A&pd_rd_r=7ce7c10d-8049-46bf-ba7f-118d7a32d5ac&pd_rd_w=jZ2qq&pd_rd_wg=VV2my&pf_rd_p=4164a36b-c9c1-4c08-9095-df09622e9ba8&pf_rd_r=GADRVAHMRKBXWBFD7JNT&psc=1&refRID=333RHJHXB7T8FS3E8M9C)
Then bog pods.
https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Lightweight-Aluminum-Hunting-Outdoors/dp/B07NDHPD71/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=shooting+sticks&qid=1601773211&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Lightweight-Aluminum-Hunting-Outdoors/dp/B07NDHPD71/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=shooting+sticks&qid=1601773211&sr=8-5)
Primos.
https://www.amazon.com/Primos-Trigger-Stick-Bipod-18-30/dp/B071FG8Z32/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=Vanguard+Quest+B62U+Shooting+Stick&qid=1601774098&sr=8-27 (https://www.amazon.com/Primos-Trigger-Stick-Bipod-18-30/dp/B071FG8Z32/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=Vanguard+Quest+B62U+Shooting+Stick&qid=1601774098&sr=8-27)
https://www.amazon.com/Primos-Trigger-Stick-Bipod-24-62/dp/B072C35W53/ref=bmx_of_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072C35W53&pd_rd_r=7ce7c10d-8049-46bf-ba7f-118d7a32d5ac&pd_rd_w=jZ2qq&pd_rd_wg=VV2my&pf_rd_p=4164a36b-c9c1-4c08-9095-df09622e9ba8&pf_rd_r=GADRVAHMRKBXWBFD7JNT&psc=1&refRID=5E6EWWV3W0XRPNPG7AYB (https://www.amazon.com/Primos-Trigger-Stick-Bipod-24-62/dp/B072C35W53/ref=bmx_of_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072C35W53&pd_rd_r=7ce7c10d-8049-46bf-ba7f-118d7a32d5ac&pd_rd_w=jZ2qq&pd_rd_wg=VV2my&pf_rd_p=4164a36b-c9c1-4c08-9095-df09622e9ba8&pf_rd_r=GADRVAHMRKBXWBFD7JNT&psc=1&refRID=5E6EWWV3W0XRPNPG7AYB)
Hunter
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Got here late to the party.... Here is the mod I did to eliminate the movement of the Gen II trigger stick legs. Used 1/2"-8 machine screws. Easy to adjust. Works great!
pv
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Paul,
I wish you had posted that picture a couple of weeks ago. Your modification is a lot simpler than the one that I made. I had the scrap end of a pressure treated 4"x4" lying around, and used it to cut a couple of shim blocks that I glued into the gap where your machine screw is placed. It took a little filing to match the bevel at the bottom of the hinge gap. I roughed up the surface of the plastic with some sandpaper, and glued the block in with medium super glue/cyanoacrylate. After the glue dried, I painted the outside of the shim blocks with the super glue to seal it from moisture. The gen 3 sticks that I got are the short model that are about 27.5" tall to the bottom of the fork when they are folded up. In the shortest configuration the feet open up 15" wide, center to center. They are a lot more stable to shoot from now. I did lose the flexibility of adjustment that your mod has.
If I had seen your mod first, I would have gone with it.
Thanks for posting it.
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If your mod works..... it works! As they say, "There's more than one way to skin a .........rabbit! I will say I was a bit nervous before doing this as I had no idea what I may run into inside the fitting or if it was hollow and would not have any screw retention to speak of. As it turned out, it is solid.
pv